Home Locks Is it possible to paint a car with your own hands: step by step instructions. How to prepare a car for painting with your own hands? Paint the prepared car completely

Is it possible to paint a car with your own hands: step by step instructions. How to prepare a car for painting with your own hands? Paint the prepared car completely

Having learned the cost of painting a car in a specialized service, car owners make decisions in favor of carrying out this procedure on their own. However, many of them do not know how to paint a car themselves, so we will try to understand this topic as much as possible within the framework of a short article.

In general, absolutely every car owner can paint a car with his own hands, and some craftsmen limit themselves to painting even with an ordinary vacuum cleaner. However, you need to understand that with its help, a full repainting of the car will not work, therefore it is best to get a dedicated compressor. Our site contains an article about which compressor to choose for painting a car and what requirements it must meet, as well as several options on how to make the compressor yourself.

Just in case, it is recommended to additionally purchase two spray caps for the compressor, supplemented with several spare tubes with different nozzle diameters. The presence of rubber plugs and O-rings is also helpful.

In their assortment, service stations have many different equipment with the help of which professional painting is carried out. We will only list what you need to apply paint quickly and efficiently in your garage. Materials and equipment for painting a car can be purchased at specialized stores. The color is selected using a computer, but it can be done "by eye".

What equipment is needed for body painting:

  • compressor, approximate cost from 5000 rubles;
  • spray gun (spray), from 1500 rubles;
  • painting mask, from 1000 rubles;
  • grinder, from 2000 rubles.

Materials for painting a car:

  • abrasive materials (sandpaper, grinding discs);
  • paint, varnish;
  • putty (universal, finishing and finishing putty);
  • primers (acrylic, anti-silicone for surface degreasing, developing powder);
  • pastes (polishing, matting and protective pastes);
  • masking tape;
  • oilcloth;
  • paper napkins.

Approximate expenses for the purchase of new equipment and materials - from 10,000 rubles. You can save money by purchasing used equipment, but it is worth considering that the quality of painting depends on it. It may be more profitable to use the services of a service station if you are going to paint the car once. Moreover, such services use specialized equipment and guarantee high quality painting. With a small budget, you can do without a sander, but then all the work on preparing the body for painting and subsequent polishing will have to be done manually! All other elements are required.

Another popular way to save money is to make your own spray gun and compressor. One example of a quick implementation of a homemade paint system:

Where to paint a car?

Many newbies have such a question if they do not have a garage where they could drive a car.
Is it possible to paint a car on the street?
Our answer is yes! The main thing is that there is no precipitation, wind and good visibility. (otherwise the defect "beach painting" may appear - when there is dust and sand in the paint). The best time of day for such work is early in the morning, as soon as the dew has disappeared: firstly, the whole day is ahead, the paint will have time to set before the night cold snap, and secondly, at this time there is usually no wind or midges. The advantages of painting on the street are that there is no need to prepare the room for the procedure and, as a rule, there is no need to clean up afterwards.

Preparing the garage for painting a car

Have you decided and you have the opportunity to paint in the garage? The main problem in this case is the presence of dust in the room, which can later get on the car. Therefore, the preparation steps are as follows:

  1. we do general cleaning, sweep out large debris, sweep the walls;
  2. we moisten the walls, floor and ceiling, our compressor with a special gun or just a bottle of water with a spray will help us;
  3. do not forget to moisten / remove dust from hidden cavities;
  4. for work we put on clean, not dusty clothes, if necessary, we pre-blow them.

Preparation before painting

To begin with, we need a thorough preparation of a car for painting, or rather its surface. It requires a cleaning procedure to remove rust and dirt. Coarse sandpaper will do just fine here. The main thing is not to overdo it in those places where the primer, along with the old paint, is very tight.

You can limit yourself to a 30% caustic soda solution. In 10-12 hours after application, the paint is washed off with hot water.

Etching is also carried out using homemade or purchased pastes. We recommend mixing 0.5 liters of potato flour into 0.5 liters of cold water and adding a solution of 2 liters of water and 2 kg of caustic soda to the resulting mixture. Next, the mixture must be stirred continuously and gradually pour another 5 liters of boiling water into it. The prepared paste is applied to the surface area, after which you need to wait about an hour for it to take effect. Then the paint is removed with a putty and a stream of cool water.

Before buying a used car, be sure to check it out! A full check of a car before buying includes a check of documents and the technical condition of the car.

An overview of the fastest car in the world →. Find out more about this unique supercar.

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DIY car body painting

So, we figured out how to prepare the car for painting. Now we turn to the analysis of the next very important step. The paint should be prepared just before the very beginning of painting the car. It is diluted with solvent No. 647 (No. 646) right in the jar. Before using the paint, it is filtered through cheesecloth or a fine sieve.

It will also be useful to warm up the resulting enamel to 50 degrees. This will allow you to paint in 2-3 coats, which will reduce solvent costs by 2 times. The viscosity of the paint must be chosen very carefully, and the last layers are laid with a more liquid solution. The time for natural drying of nitro enamel depends on temperature conditions, but on average it is 15 minutes.

When self-painting a car, it is helpful to sand every layer of putty, paint and primer. Treated areas require abundant wetting and periodic flushing with water. Grinding is carried out only with waterproof skins. Among other things, you can use grinding paste. Small scratches on the surface can be removed very easily. It is enough to apply solvent No. 648 or the same No. 647 with a spray bottle.

The painted surface needs polishing, which is carried out with rotational movements. The main polishing is done using polishing paste # 290 (fine abrasive), and finish the surface with polishing water. A flannel rag or zigey skin will come in handy here. Read more about polishing your car with your own hands.

So we figured out how to paint a car correctly. After the end of all the work, it is advisable to wash the car and make anti-corrosion treatment, which is quite feasible at home. And in order to better understand the whole process of painting a car with your own hands, we suggest watching the following video.

Immediately, we note that we are engaged in body repair and if you need help, for example, you want to clarify something, then ask questions in the comments - the master painter will try to give you a qualified answer. We will also be grateful for indicating additional options for painting cars in the comments (we will expand the article) for greater usefulness.

Met by clothes - some moments related to painting cars

The first six "Kopeks", which rolled off the assembly line of the Volga Automobile Plant at 7 am on 04/19/1970, had two whole colors - blue and red. How many options are you going through now when buying a car? And we are talking about standard factory paint options. And look at the tuned cars? Simply chic, shine, gloss and beauty. True, it is already difficult to understand the existing options, even individual masters are confused in determining the types of paintwork. What can we say about an amateur who decided to freshen up or radically change the appearance of the car. Without basic knowledge, it is difficult to find a normal service, they can easily be shoved into the exclusive with a banal standard paint from the same AvtoVAZ.

Therefore, let's understand the methods and types of painting together. And the information provided by the body repair masters of the "AVTOkapitan" service, working on all painting options, will help with this.

How it is done in the factory, in services and garages

The time when at the plant several painters ran around the car, however, no longer with brushes, but with spray guns, has sunk into oblivion. And at Russian enterprises there are robotic painting lines. No, of course you can't do without people at all, but the main processes are entrusted to automatic equipment. The influence of the human factor is minimized. At the same time, the emphasis is on creating optimal conditions for the application and drying of paint and varnish coatings. Not a speck, not a speck of dust, constantly maintained temperature and humidity.









Not a single service can afford to buy such lines - it is expensive, and the volume of work is not the same. Therefore, everything is simpler here, but at a high level. Painting is performed in special chambers equipped with ventilation and filtration systems of incoming air. Painting technologies are used the same as at the factory, but the equipment configuration depends only on the service capabilities. It is, of course, difficult to ensure complete sterility of the chamber, but it turns out to create acceptable conditions for applying paintwork. Note that the preparation (putty, stripping) is performed in another area. Therefore, the accumulation of large amounts of dust in the spray booth is impossible in principle.




A private practitioner car painter cannot afford to allocate about $ 20 thousand for the purchase of a camera. Therefore, at best, paint the car in a separate garage. And usually the room in which the body was prepared for painting is dedusted, and part of the room is covered with film. Therefore, it is difficult to talk about the sterility of such a zone. It should also be borne in mind that private craftsmen mainly use pneumatic painting equipment, which helps to scatter the remaining dust around the room during work.


And as a result, we get the following picture. If at the factory conditionally 1 part of the dust settles on the painted body, then in the service conditions 5 such parts will get onto the fresh paint, and in the garage there are already about 50 such dust particles. It is this factor that distinguishes the quality of painting in various conditions. And this is with the conditional equality of the quality of training. Conclusion, who should be entrusted with repainting a car during repair or tuning, do it yourself.

Technologies used

To obtain a high-quality multilayer coating, which will provide protection of the body from corrosion and a presentable appearance, enamels and varnishes of different composition are used. Cellulose, nitrocellulose (glyphthalic), acrylic, alkyd, even powder paints - all of them have found application in the car paints business. Each has its own pros and cons, but we are not talking about that, but about the technologies used.

Let's immediately forget such a beautiful concept as "roller paint car". Moreover, this is a banal roller painting, widely advertised by individual craftsmen. Those who like to poke around on Google, or better yet, Yandex to help. And we will take it as an axiom - high-quality paintwork is obtained only by spraying paint on the surface of the car body. Moreover, various technologies are used in the work.

Pneumatic painting

The most common method in which paint transfer is carried out using a jet of compressed air. From the tank, the enamel enters the air stream by gravity or by ejection. When passing through the nozzle of the gun, a finely dispersed mixture of paint and air is formed with the formation of a fairly soft torch. Equipment of this class was the first to be used for both manual and automated painting. The advantages of pneumatic painting include:

  • The coating is applied in a thin and even layer, while a wide range of settings allows you to adjust the thickness of the paint applied to the body within significant limits.
  • It is used to work with different paints and varnishes, and the complexity of the surface configuration does not matter.
  • Affordable cost of a set of equipment (excluding the compressor).
  • High painting speed.

But there are also disadvantages. associated with the use of compressed air. And not one:

  • The powerful air flow helps to raise dust in the paint area, which affects the quality of the paintwork.
  • The finely dispersed mixture does not all reach the painted surface. Most air guns have a paint transfer rate of less than 50%. That is, half of the expensive material turns into a cloud of colorful fog that settles everywhere, but not the car.
  • Careful adjustment of the parameters of the pistol is required. With an increased torch of paint, streaks form on the metal, with an insufficient value, the number of necessary passes for painting increases.
  • Possibility of blowing up already laid, but not cured paint with an air stream.

To some extent, these disadvantages are eliminated in the improved design models of spray guns of the HVLP and LVLP classes, characterized by a reduced pressure at the exit from the nozzle. But even they do not remove the colorful fog.

Airless spraying

Improved technology that eliminates the need for compressed air. But let's note right away - the quality of paint spraying depends on the features and cost of the selected set of equipment. When purchasing frankly cheap models, do not count on additional advantages compared to pneumatic spray guns.


The principle of operation is based on increasing the pressure of the paint itself, therefore, compressed air energy is not required to transfer it to the surface to be painted. A high-pressure piston pump (in professional equipment up to 250 atmospheres) supplies paint through a specially designed nozzle. Due to a sharp decrease in outlet pressure, the material flow is dispersed. Passing through the ambient air, the torch loses its propagation speed, which ensures a soft laying of the paintwork on the surface to be treated.

This technology has the following advantages:

  • High viscosity paint can be used.
  • The material transfer coefficient exceeds 60-80%, due to which the intensity of ink mist formation is significantly reduced. Losses compared to pneumatic equipment are reduced by 20-30%.
  • Increased paint droplet size when sprayed. This increases the thickness of the applied coating, which reduces the number of passes required for painting the surface and increases the productivity of the equipment.
  • The torch made of paints and varnishes has clear boundaries, so the painting process is controlled with high precision.
  • Avoiding compressed air prevents dust from picking up and bloating of uncured paint that has already been applied.

These advantages provide the expansion of the scope of application of equipment for airless painting. Most of the factory lines are equipped with just such complexes, and in services, manual equipment of this class is found more and more often.

Powder coating

The technology makes it possible to obtain coatings resistant to mechanical damage and weathering. Full painting of a car body is rare, but wheels, metal body kits, thresholds are increasingly covered with polymer powder compositions. The advantages of this method of applying protective and decorative coatings are as follows:


  • Powder-type paintwork is characterized by increased resistance to mechanical damage.
  • The coating does not change color when exposed to ultraviolet radiation and weathering.
  • With a competent organization of production, the loss of material does not exceed 1–5%, that is, the paint transfer coefficient reaches 95–99%.
  • Full shading is achieved in one pass.

The technology itself is based on reliable fixation of the magnetized powder on the treated surfaces. The positively charged material is sprayed onto a grounded body element. In this case, the paint lays down in an even layer. Thermal action on the coating is required to start polymerization. For this, the processed part is placed in an oven at a temperature of 150–2000 degrees and held for 10–20 minutes. As a result, the powder granules are sintered into a uniform film, which serves as a reliable protection for the metal.

The disadvantages of this technology include the impossibility of tinting the powder. The choice is limited only to formulations prepared by the manufacturer. But for the sake of fairness, we note that the number of options is constantly growing, now even metallic is applied in a similar way.

Car painting in service

Of course, even an advanced auto center does not have the capabilities of a car factory, and there is no need for this - the volumes are not the same. Moreover, the lag is expressed exclusively in quantitative terms. The service will not be able to paint a dozen cars at the same time. But in terms of quality indicators, there is no such difference. Modern equipment, the use of professional varied paints and varnishes, adherence to technological requirements - serious organizations in these areas are doing well. Therefore, in a service specialized in body repair and car painters, they perform a full range of work - from spot restoration of paintwork to a complete repainting of the body.

The type of repair or restoration (change) of the paintwork depends on the degree of damage and the goal that you set for yourself. The service is most often contacted in case of damage to the paintwork as a result of accidents or exposure to corrosion. In addition, some of the orders are related to changing the appearance of the car during tuning. Let's highlight the following types of work related to painting a car.


Damage types

Local and spot painting

In case of minor damage to individual body elements (up to 40-50% of the surface area), this type of repair will help. There is no need to completely repaint the part, which saves both materials and time. Consequently, refinishing will be cheaper. Therefore, every car owner is primarily interested in the opportunity to get by with "little blood". But this option is only suitable in the following cases:

  • Scratches and scuffs.
  • Chips and dents.
  • Sporadic damage due to corrosion and caustic substances.

Note that in cases where the damage comes close to the junction with other body elements, you will have to paint with a transition. But we'll talk about this technology later.

The difficulty of local or spot painting lies in the selection of the appropriate color, especially when it comes to multilayer coatings such as metallic or mother-of-pearl. Even the computer selection program is malfunctioning due to additional paint components (aluminum dust or mica).

It is also not worth counting on the number of the paintwork, because the remaining paint burns out under the influence of light and differs from the new same type of coating in tone.


Only an experienced painter will cope with the selection of color, even with the equipment, so often the owner hears suggestions for a complete repainting of the part, which will cost more.

Partial or element-by-element painting

A more costly, but still affordable option for the restoration of paintwork, involves a complete repainting of single or several body parts. It is used in the following cases:

  • For small-sized elements, the area of ​​which makes spot or local painting impractical.
  • If more than 40-50% of the part surface is damaged.
  • When the paintwork is broken on several adjacent body parts, for example, when one side of the car is damaged.
  • When installing new doors, bumpers, fenders and other parts.

Despite the increased volume of work, painting is easier in this case. The fact is that the tone discrepancy is removed by applying a standard transition to adjacent elements. It is recommended not to abandon this option, the costs increase slightly, and the resistance and durability of the paintwork increases. According to statistics, 60% of car paints are accounted for by this type of painting.

Transition painting

This technology will be required for almost all cases of local or partial painting of a car body. Even with careful selection of the tone of the materials, the border of the newly painted area will be different. In some cases, this is not striking, in others a clear halo appears. To avoid such a defect, a transition or washout (feathering) of the surface layers of the coating is applied.

Depending on the type of material, several techniques are used to smooth out the differences in paint tone:

  • Acrylic and similar materials are easier to work with. After applying a layer of paintwork, the border of the joint with the old coating is treated with a special solvent and shaded until the same shade is obtained.
  • When working with metallic, first of all, additional surface preparation is required. Do it with a binder that forms the correct base for the base paint. The particles of the composition will fall evenly along the binder, which will avoid sharp delimitation of the boundaries. After painting, the surface is treated with a special solvent according to the standard scheme.

But one transition on paint is not enough, work will also be required with a layer of varnish. In the simplest case, the entire surface of the repaired part is varnished. But this option will not give a 100% guarantee. Therefore, it is worth making a transition over the varnish. The technology is standard, only a special composition is used for the varnish layer. If the area to be restored is near the junction with another element, the transition is made with the capture of adjacent parts.

Complete repainting of the machine

A cardinal solution that is used for global body repair, renewal of damaged coating, color change, tuning. The advantage of this option is that you don't have to bother with the selection of paint, the organization of transitions. The downside is a significant amount of work and, accordingly, an increasing cost. But in this case, you also get more reliable protection of the case against corrosion than in the case of local painting.

Pay attention to the conditions under which a complete repainting is performed. If the qualification of the master allows, then partial painting is done in garage conditions. But with a global update, you should not risk so much. If you want to get an even coating without streaks and dust inclusions - paint in the camera.

Full repainting is a multi-stage process, and the durability of the coating and the appearance of the machine depend on each of them. Cleaning and degreasing, filling and sanding, priming, paint and varnish. And after that, we must not forget about maintaining the temperature regime required for drying. For these purposes, it is advisable to use infrared equipment, which provides favorable conditions for the formation of a coating resistant to damage.

Options for every taste and wallet

Now let's talk about exclusive paint options that are rarely used by automakers, at least domestic ones. For the application of such coatings, standard technologies are used, albeit with some differences. But the main effect is achieved due to the properties of the materials used themselves.

Do you need a bright and memorable car without changing the design? Take advantage of the repainting, the concept of which will be developed taking into account your tastes and wishes. Pay attention. The quality of the coating will depend on the thoroughness of the preliminary preparation. But we will not focus on this, because you will entrust the work to the service masters who know a lot about this business. Let's dwell on the features of the materials themselves and painting technologies.

Metallic and mother-of-pearl are also offered by car manufacturers

In the general list, it is already a standard solution, which is also used in mass production. The required effect is achieved by adding appropriate fillers to the basic composition. Light, falling on particles of inclusions and reflecting from them, begins to play, which creates an effect characteristic of the selected type of paint. It should be said that despite the similarity of the compositions, these paints and the very technology of applying paintwork are different. Here's the difference:


Classic metallic- a two-layer paint-and-lacquer coating that imitates the appearance of pure metal. The effect is achieved by adding to the composition of particles of aluminum and zinc, copper and brass, bronze. Depending on the filler, the coating will resemble the corresponding metal. A layer of base paint is applied to the prepared surface and covered with an appropriate transparent varnish. The color solution depends on the pigments used.


Classic mother of pearl- a coating, the play of which resembles the appearance of the inner coating of the shells of sea molluscs. A stunning play of light is provided by the introduction of mica or muscovite particles into the base paint. Mother-of-pearl is a three-layer coating - a base of the same color, base paint, a layer of varnish.

Both methods of painting ensure the durability of the paintwork and resistance to ultraviolet radiation. In terms of performance, both metallic and mother-of-pearl are superior to standard acrylic paints and varnishes.

Let's play with a chameleon

The chameleon coating belongs to one of the types of metallic due to the similar principle of action of microparticles introduced into the base paint. But this is not entirely correct. Yes, the technology involves the use of the same metals that provide the play of light. But each grain has a 5-layer structure - metal, 2 transparent and two semitransparent layers. Due to this, each particle changes color depending on the angle of incidence of sunlight. As a result, the car begins to shine with all the colors of the rainbow. It is impossible to obtain such an effect with standard metallic or mother-of-pearl.













The technology involves the application of 3 working layers:

  • Primer Toner is a base coat that overlaps the standard primer used to prepare the machine for painting. It is the toner that determines the base color of your chameleon. Most often they use white or black, but experiments give an original color with a non-standard result.
  • The main pigment layer is applied practically over a wet toner, 5-7 minutes after application. By varying the thickness of the paint and the uniformity of the application, visual effects with different intensities are obtained.
  • The final stage is covering with high quality varnish. The durability and reliability of the "chameleon" will depend on its quality, so you shouldn't save on this material.

Painting a chameleon is a laborious process that requires the utmost skill of the artist. Don't expect to get results in a garage. In addition, the cost of the material is quite high, so it is better not to risk it, but to paint it under service conditions.

Cover the car with foul language

An option that is gaining more and more popularity. Matted cars look unusual, fresh, stands out in the stream of cars. Opponents of this method of painting argue that the surface requires complex maintenance and is poorly suited to Russian climatic conditions. But this does not correspond to reality, especially since manufacturers are bringing to the market varieties of matte paints and varnishes with increased resistance.



There are two main ways to solve the problem:

  • Cover the existing paintwork with a matt clear varnish. This option is acceptable only if the existing paintwork is in perfect condition. If there are any problems, the car will have to be repainted in whole or in part. Therefore, for this case, another solution will be more advantageous.
  • Application of matt paint or special matting additives to standard materials. For different types of paint, the corresponding formulations are used. Therefore, the main task is not to confuse. The painting technology has no special nuances. The only thing to note is that the surface does not need polishing.

Need your own Batmobile? Cover the machine with matt varnish or paint. By the way, not necessarily black, now you can choose different options.

Chrome and gold are almost royal decisions

Such machines are also called mirrors. In budget versions, this effect is achieved with the help of a film, but we will talk specifically about painting. In terms of its characteristics, such a coating is close to metallic, but has a higher reflectivity. In the sun, this paintwork shines like natural chrome or gold (the effect depends on the choice of paint). It gets such properties due to the introduction of aluminum microparticles into the main composition. But the main trick lies in the technology of forming a multilayer coating in the following way:

  • A black base is considered ideal for applying chrome or gold. This option provides excellent contrast to the aluminum particles in the paint.
  • The base composition is applied by traditional spraying. By playing with the thickness of the layer, they achieve varying degrees of reflection of the sun's rays.
  • The next layer is a translucent varnish.
  • The top layer is transparent varnish.










It is this sequence of layers that ensures the royal shine of the car. By the way, not only the full body painting looks impressive, but also the coating of individual elements of the car.

Candy effect

Ever noticed the brightly colored lollipops? Do you want your car to look like candy too? Then pay attention to Candy paints, because this is how the name is translated. The main advantages of painting a car with such compositions:




















  • You get an unusually bright color, characterized by transparency and saturation.
  • Smooth transition between tones and semitones.
  • The possibility of obtaining a movable plastic pattern.

All these properties are provided by the use of special pigments with increased intensity. Manufacturers offer three main options for Candy-type paints, namely:

  • Completely transparent colored varnish.
  • Ready-to-use paints for car bodywork.
  • Concentrated pigment that can be diluted in various types of paints and varnishes.

The technology of using Candy-paints has the following features:

  • Light-colored coatings should be used as a substrate. The best result is obtained when painting surfaces that already have a design in the form of silver or gold metallic and mother-of-pearl.
  • When applying the base paint, the lissing technique (color blurring) is used. Multi-layer painting is practiced, while in order to obtain the desired effect, you will have to apply 6-8 layers. The color intensity is changed from the darkest to the lightest shade of the selected color scheme.
  • A transparent varnish corresponding to the color is used as a topcoat.

Pay attention. Candy paints are difficult to work with. It is almost impossible to get the required effect without certain painting skills. Therefore, entrust the painting to a specialist.

What a beast this Plasti dip

This solution is still unusual for motorists, but has already proven its effectiveness. Basically, it is a liquid rubber coating. But not ordinary, but special with various operational properties. The coating forms a rubber film resistant to mechanical damage on the treated surface. Moreover, you can remove this material without any problems, while restoring the original appearance of the machine.













Distinguish between transparent, glossy and matt Plasti dip, which allows you to get a surface with any desired texture. The color tone is formed by combining basic colors (6 basic colors in total), so the number of options is almost unlimited. An additional plus - with the help of plastidip, coatings of the metallic, mother-of-pearl, chameleon class are obtained. It is enough to add the appropriate pigment to the composition.

Plasti dip painting technology is as follows:

  • Black or dark gray material is used as a base. To ensure the required strength, about 10 layers are applied.
  • The main part of the coating is matte or glossy plastidip, providing the required color and texture. If you plan to get mother-of-pearl or chameleon, use a transparent material with appropriate pigments.
  • If a unique gloss is required, a special high gloss varnish is used as a finishing layer.

By choosing this option, you get a symbiosis of traditional paints and vinyl. At the same time, there are no restrictions on color and texture. And the protective properties of this material are at a high level.

Sunshine to help you

Another interesting option that deserves attention. This solution is suitable for lovers of bright colors. Of course, there are many colors with increased brightness, but not all of them know how to use sunlight to emphasize their benefits. We propose to draw on two options for paints and varnishes with the following properties:













  • Fluorescent paints- under the influence of sunlight, it acquires a super-bright shade, and under ultraviolet rays, the color becomes almost acidic. It is almost impossible to find a coating similar in brightness among standard paints.
  • Luminous paint- this solution will show itself at night. Thanks to the phosphor, the paint is able to accumulate the energy of sunlight and release it at night. Material of this class is sold in the form of a powder, which is diluted in the paint or varnish corresponding to your car. It is possible to change the color of the glow, adding certain pigments to the composition.

Such options are rarely used for complete repainting, especially inks based on phosphor. The best option is to paint individual body parts. This type of tuning looks very impressive. We recommend you try and evaluate the effect you get.

Airbrushing for auto gourmets

Well, how can you forget about airbrushing. The idea is not new, but thanks to its artistic performance, it has not lost its relevance and value. In fact, this is a real art, and each time the performance will be unique even for images of the same type.









Airbrushing is a complex multistage process that includes:

  • Photographing the car and transferring the photo in digital format to special software.
  • Development of the future drawing, taking into account the characteristics of the car. The program allows you to evaluate the appearance of the machine after airbrushing in 3D format.
  • Preparation of the surface for drawing the image.
  • Car painting in accordance with the developed project.

Pay attention. When applying airbrushing, you have to use paint of different colors. It is necessary to use only formulations of one manufacturer, otherwise you can get incompatibility of paints. And this will affect both the quality of the pattern and the durability of the coating. Airbrushing is aerobatics in the auto-painting business. Therefore, trust the work only to the master with the Name.

We have given only the most popular options for painting cars. But there are many exclusive methods - thermal paints, crystal masks, paramagnetic compounds that change color at the request of the owner, and much more. If you want to implement any option you like, please contact us, we will help.

Chalk paint

Tired of monotony or need to advertise on your car? Do you want to decorate your car in an unusual way for any festive event? But at the same time there is no desire, no time, no opportunity to mess around with sticking films? What about paint that can be washed off the car body after you no longer need it? Yes, now there is such an opportunity.










Manufacturers offer washable chalk paint that does no harm to the main paintwork of the car. The material contains only water, chalk and colored pigments. Thanks to this, the coating does not react with the main paintwork and is washed off without any consequences. Manufacturers offer 11 colors, which allows you to apply even complex compositions that are not inferior to airbrushing on the body surface. By the way, you can use the paint in winter. The main thing is that the temperature is not below -20 degrees.

Have you ever seen wedding corteges or limousines painted with congratulations? All this is done precisely with the help of such coloring compositions. Let's reveal the secret. Even some street racers use chalk paint before entering the track. After all, every time you can arrange a car in a new, bright and unusual way.

The only caveat. You should not buy obviously cheap spray cans (most manufacturers offer paints in the form of aerosols), there is a significant likelihood of purchasing a fake. In this case, there will be no guarantees of the safety of the paintwork of the car, precedents have already happened. But there have been no complaints about certified products yet.

Crystal mask

Another material and way of painting a car, which has an interesting visual effect. The use of a special paint and varnish material makes it possible to obtain a coating that resembles a surface, consisting of many crystals of various shapes and sizes.


Some examples of crystal paint

A similar effect is achieved by adding components to the paint that can crystallize even at room temperature. In this case, it is possible to regulate the amount of growth of individual crystals by changing the drying temperature of the paintwork. Heat harder - reduce the size of individual grains. This makes it possible to create unique patterns on the surface. It is impossible to find two cars with the same pattern.

Crystal mask is a multi-layer coating, the application of which requires serious skill. Do not expect to paint the car in this way yourself, translate the material. The technology assumes the following works:

  • As a base, paint of the main color is used. In most cases, nitro enamels are used. This layer must be matted.
  • The base paint is sprayed over the entire surface. When dry, crystallization of the additives that make up the composition occurs. You can, at your discretion, choose the place where the next crystal will appear. It is enough to put points on the surface with a sharpened wooden stick (the same knitting needle). It is from these places that a new crystal pattern will begin to grow. The process is completed within 20-30 minutes.
  • The formed layer is covered with a thin dusty layer of contrasting paint, which, after drying, is washed off with a regular sponge and water. The paint remaining in the crystals will make the pattern play in a new way.
  • As a topcoat, two layers of varnish are used, which will give additional depth and volume.

If you want to get an unusual paintwork, be sure to try this technology. Moreover, in terms of its strength characteristics, it is not inferior to the usual metallic or mother-of-pearl. And it looks very presentable.

And now a real exclusive

All the options for painting a car, which were mentioned above, are no longer a rarity on Russian roads. Yes, a little expensive, but the same mother-of-pearl or airbrushing are becoming familiar and no longer surprising. Chalk paint has already found its consumer, mainly among creative youth interested in an unusual gift or attracting attention. And now we propose to get acquainted with really exclusive materials that bring the car paint brush to a completely new quality level. We are sure that not everyone has met cars that can change their own color depending on the surrounding conditions. It seems fantastic, but such technologies already exist and are successfully used in auto-tuning.

Thermochromic paint

Imagine. Start the car, warm up the engine, and at this time an intricate pattern or unusual picture begins to appear on the hood. This effect is achieved precisely by painting the hood with thermochromic paint. Paints and varnishes of this class have become the first-born among coatings that can change their color.

It is impossible to convey the effect of thermochromic and (spoiler) hydrochromic paints with an image. Better watch the video.

The principle of operation is based on the use of special temperature-sensitive additives. Under normal conditions, micrograins or crystals have a transparent structure, that is, they practically do not affect the color of the base paint. But as soon as the surface is heated, the color of the additives begins to change. Moreover, manufacturers offer up to a dozen different shades and the critical temperature limit at which the transformation process starts can be selected.

Considering the cost of thermochromic materials, they are rarely used for full body painting. But the coating of individual body elements, especially those exposed to high temperatures, looks unexpected. After all, literally before our eyes, the appearance of the car begins to transform. Among the paints that change their color, thermochromic compositions are the most widespread and popular. But this is not the only possible option.

Hydrochromic paint

And such a coating reacts to another irritant - water. We got caught in the rain or drove into a car wash, and under the first drops, the car begins to change its color or a certain pattern appears. Of course, changing the intensity of the tone, as in the case of thermochromic enamels with increasing temperature, increasing the degree of wetting, will not work, but it looks quite impressive. And the main thing is unusual.

This type of paintwork is also multi-layered. The secret lies in the surface layer, which, under the influence of water, loses its color and becomes transparent. Thanks to this, the main layer of paint or the drawing applied to the base becomes visible. Unfortunately, hydrochromic paint is poorly pigmented, so it is mostly white when dry. And this somewhat limits the use of materials of this class. But the solution itself is interesting.

Paramagnetic paint

We must say right away that it was not necessary to work with such materials. And there are many disputes around this topic on the Internet. Paramagnetic paint - is it true or fiction? Let's start by saying that this is technically feasible. Indeed, in various fields, the properties of nanoparticles are used to change their spatial orientation and, accordingly, the light reflecting ability under the influence of an electric and magnetic field. Thus, paramagnetic iron oxides are used in magnetic resonance imaging for toning the organs under study.

Roughly the same principle is used in paramagnetic paints for cars. Paramagnetic iron particles are introduced into the base coatings. Under the influence of a magnetic field obtained by electricity, crystals of a substance rotate at a certain angle, approach or move away from each other. Due to this, a color change is obtained, which is visually seen by a person. That is, they pressed a button - they made the car blue, pressed another - in a split second they repainted the car red.

Even if we consider the majority of videos posted on the Internet with a similar effect fake, we must admit that the idea has the right to life. True, the cost of such painting will significantly exceed the price of even an expensive car.

If paramagnetic paintwork is a fairy tale, then this is a very interesting fairy tale. Therefore, we would like to independently test the possibilities of such a paint. And when such a chance appears, we will definitely use it.

To repair minor damage to the car body, the possibilities of partial processing of body parts are often used. Local repair of your car can be done by hand and significantly save money on the services of specialized stations. At the same time, local work is carried out not only on metal body parts, but also on interior elements. Parts are processed in a pointwise manner in compliance with important technologies. Only in this way will partial painting of individual sections of the car really be optimal in all respects. Important aspects of the renovation work must be observed.

Spot processing of the body elements of your car should be carried out in decent conditions. If the air humidity is high or the temperature is too low, the car cannot be repaired properly. So it is better to provide a quality environment before investing in this process. Moreover, even local work done by yourself will have to spend a lot of money. You will need quality materials, good reliable tools for applying paint.

All parts of your car should be high quality painted. Today, painting of car body elements has become a real art, a huge number of special materials, devices, conditions and methods of work are distinguished. Each element can have a special approach in performing painting operations. But there is a certain principle of preparing a section of a car body and performing work:

  1. Cleaning and washing the spot with fine sandpaper. This stage also implies some expansion of the painting area.
  2. Protection of parts that do not need to be covered with a new layer of materials. This can be done with film and masking tape or other materials at hand.
  3. Smoothing out any unevenness in the working area so that the local spots are completely flat and satisfactory in surface texture.
  4. Cover the work piece with a primer to ensure good paint adhesion and to protect metal parts from future corrosion propagation.
  5. Painting and bringing the local area of ​​your car to the desired state. At this stage, the car is often completely polished and the results are of good quality.

You can carry out all the stages with your own hands quite simply. There are a number of voluminous videos and instructions in a different format in the public domain. But painting a car locally with your own hands can also be tricky. Even if you have a theoretical base, partial painting of a car is not always successful the first time. It is not enough just to know this process, you also need to have experience and skills for painting.

Local work for the elements of the car interior

Also, a number of videos and articles from experts talk about the principles of painting with plastic. For this, the parts must be dismantled from the car interior. Sometimes, non-pinpoint processing is needed, it is more convenient to repaint the entire object without preparation and complex protection of undamaged areas. The plastic is also washed off and then opened with paint. The primer can be missed if you do not completely remove all the coating when preparing the subject.

Spot painting of a car often includes the process of finalizing interior items. But some of the components of the car interior are extremely difficult to dismantle. Their processing right in the salon should be as careful as possible. Since in the process you can paint glass or other elements of the interior space. Therefore, such a local painting of a car, and even with your own hands, should be carried out carefully and competently.

Transition is a necessary skill for local repairs

Your car may turn out to be ugly after ineptly performed actions with paintwork. The problem is that it is almost never possible to find ideal paints and varnishes. Therefore, spot work immediately becomes visible to the naked eye. Dots and local spots that were painted are visible, they differ in texture, color and freshness of the coating. Painting a car element using transition technology is performed as follows:

  • the car is prepared as indicated above, before the stage of paint application and direct visual finishing;
  • the first two coats are applied using a standard paint mixture that you would use for any work;
  • then the paint is diluted with a solvent, another layer is applied, then dilution occurs again;
  • you need to dilute in about a 1: 1 ratio by repeating the procedure about 6-7 times and applying the solution;
  • the range of repair places on the car is also gradually expanding in order to complete the transition;
  • at the last stage, an almost pure solvent is applied to the body, simply with a tint.

Such a partial painting of a car will save you from having to make excuses to a future buyer for repair places. And the most pleasant thing is to drive a car, the color of the parts of which does not differ from the main tone. Even not the most skillful do-it-yourself spot painting of a car with this technique will help hide all the shortcomings of the imposition of paints and varnishes.

How to learn how to paint local damage on a car?

The body parts of your vehicle can be painted only after you have completed the training work. When you pick up a spray bottle for the first time, you are unlikely to show excellent results. It is worth watching a video in which experts explain how all the work is done with their own hands. Local painting of a car must also comply with certain requirements and restrictions:

  • you should not use materials that are too cheap, this will lead to their poor quality and poor overlap;
  • spot work should be carried out in a cell or a prepared garage, and not in the open air;
  • you should carry out training restoration of paintwork on surfaces that are not so important to you;
  • only good equipment with normal paint supply will be a good solution for your car;
  • You should not expect amazing results if you have never painted a vehicle before.

It is not worth approaching the painting process without experience. Better to take a garage door, for example, as a test object. On them, you can practice your own skills and get excellent results. Only after that you can quite simply correct the shortcomings of the body parts of your own transport. There is no need to rush in this matter. And if the result is needed urgently, then it is better to contact a specialist.

Summing up

To complete the local painting of the car body completely, define the tasks of your work. For a professional result, you will often need high-quality equipment, expensive paint and other expensive conditions. If you only have a can and a minimum of technical means at your disposal, you will have to accept the low quality of the processing results. It will not be superfluous to note that the car cannot be painted in inappropriate conditions, otherwise the material will simply peel off the metal or plastic and will not serve properly.

With simple technology, you can achieve the results you want. But keep in mind that painting in a booth with a good spray gun and a powerful compressor will still be better. Sometimes it is worth renting a camera or simply ordering services from specialists. This option will save you time, but it will require more money. After some preparation, you can independently perform all the necessary work without blots and difficulties. Any mistakes in the process can be corrected, you just need to know how to do it.

Have you decided to freshen up the color of your car, but do not know how real painting a car at home is? If you are not afraid of difficulties, you like to do everything yourself and carefully, then you will cope with this work. The main thing is to prepare well both theoretically and financially.

Preparing a car for painting

Car wash

The hardest part is the beginning. You walk around the car and do not know from which edge to approach it. So, first it is worth washing the car, because it is easier to see all the defects on a clean body. Now patience - after all, painting a car with your own hands takes only 10% of the time. The remaining 90% will be completely spent on preparation.

First you need to dismantle the attachments. Removing the external elements:

  • front and rear bumpers;
  • headlights;
  • sidelights;
  • direction indicators;
  • decorative radiator grill.

Everything that you removed, carefully clean, wash and put in a separate place.

Work to eliminate defects in the body before painting

Self-painting of a car begins with an assessment of the paintwork of the car for defects. To do this, the machine must be installed in a well-lit place. Mark chips, cracks, dents with colored chalk or quick-drying acrylic paint.

Now we take a chisel in our hands and clean out the defective places to clean metal. The main task at this stage is to select the damaged areas of the paint using sandpaper No. 60, 80, 100. This will ensure the smoothest possible transition to a non-defective surface. The difference in height should be minimal, and it can only be determined by hand, by touch.

Use sandpaper to check the transitions often. You will know when you reach the perfect surface. Having completed the work on cleaning the body with sandpaper, it is necessary to wipe it with a cotton rag moistened with white spirit.

Removing dents with auto putty

Filling dents

Polyester synthetic auto-filler is used for filling work. The work itself is carried out with metal or rubber spatulas. When preparing the putty, it is important to follow the recommendations indicated on the package.

The putty is mixed with the hardener in small portions. Then it is applied with a spatula to the surface to be treated. Movements should be performed crosswise and be vigorous enough. You need to work quickly, but without fuss, since the putty hardens within 30 minutes.
If the putty work is done at the proper level, then painting a car at home will ultimately give a wonderful result.

After the putty has dried (this is about 30 - 45 minutes at a temperature of +20 degrees), the surface must be sanded. Using abrasives of various grain sizes, from 120 to 600, the putty is brought to the geometry of the body. This procedure is quite painstaking and requires patience. Remember to periodically check your work with your hand. If necessary, the filling should be repeated, respectively, followed by stripping.

In order to finally control the quality of the putty work, a thin layer of primer must be applied to the prepared surface, preferably from an aerosol can. Defects will pop up instantly - they need to be fixed.

The final stage of preparation for painting

All machine paintwork must be uniformly sanded to achieve a matt finish. To do this, use an emery cloth No. 1200. Using a masking tape, glue the paper to those parts of the body that cannot be painted. It should be remembered about the boundaries of painted and unpainted parts. Once again we wipe the car body with a rag dipped in white spirit, and wait for it to dry.

Self-painting of a car will be completed successfully when the premises are properly prepared. Firstly, it must be spacious - at least two meters around the perimeter of the car. Secondly, the walls and the ceiling are thoroughly cleaned of dirt and moistened. It is also necessary to moisten the floor with water in order to exclude the ingress of dust on the surface of the car.

Final work - painting the car

We purchase car enamel in advance, which dries naturally without baking. is carried out in accordance with the recommendations for its use.

The paint must be diluted with a special solvent to the desired consistency. The readiness of the paint for work is checked visually. To do this, take a metal rod with a diameter of 1 - 2 mm and immerse it in the prepared paint, then raise it. If the paint runs off 3-4 drops per second, then you can start painting the car at home. The paint is filtered through a nylon stocking and poured into with a nozzle No. 1.4. The working air pressure should be at the level of 2.5 - 3 atm.

Start painting from the roof of the car. The pistol is held at a distance of 15 - 25 cm from the body. Movements during work should be smooth and, importantly, reciprocating. The car is painted in two or three coats, with an exposure time between coats of 15 - 20 minutes. Drying time for a painted car takes from 24 to 36 hours at a temperature of +20 degrees.

Remember that with your own hands, you must observe safety and fire safety measures. Work should be performed in a well-ventilated area, wear a respirator and under no circumstances should smoke.


When motorists find out how much it will cost them at special stations, many often decide to carry out this procedure on their own. However, the answer to the question of how to paint a car yourself is not so simple. After all, it will not be enough to "pour" paint over the car and wait until it is completely dry. You should use special technologies, carry out training, use special equipment. And there is no need to talk about the presence of special skills!

Car painting is not an easy process of being doused with paint

Car painting at home

First of all, if you do not yet know how to paint a car at home, you should wash the car thoroughly, since it will be easier to examine the existing defects on a clean car.

It is worth remembering that the painting process itself takes about 10% of the time, while the remaining 90% is preparation. First, locks, seals that can interfere with painting are removed. If left behind and simply covered with masking tape, moisture that accumulates under these elements can harm the machine in the future. Next, you need to clean and prime the car body. The old coating is removed, and the centers of corrosion are treated.

It is imperative to use materials from one manufacturer. Often, materials from different companies can be rejected. This is why such a coating will not last long enough.

Stages of car painting technology

Before answering the question of how to paint a car with your own hands, you should know that there are five main stages of painting.

  1. 1. using shampoos, removing dirt, carrying out primary preparation.
  2. Degreasing the surface of the body, removing bitumen stains, lubricants.
  3. Elimination of corrosive foci, removal of old paint by abrasive grinding. The abrasives are aluminum dioxide with silicon carbide. Sanding paper should be used on the assumption that the difference in "numbers" should be no more than 100 units. The surface must be processed sequentially in five steps. If these provisions are violated and paper of a different "number" is used, the material will be subject to subsidence.
  4. Carrying out primary and secondary priming, which makes it possible to create an anti-corrosion coating on the body. It should be noted that the soil dries out completely in 2-4 hours. Specialized boxes have infrared drying, which reduces the drying process of the soil itself to 15 minutes.
  5. Application of enamel or varnish.

Preparing the car body for painting

In the process of washing a car, road dirt is removed from the body with the help of water. Bitumen and grease stains must be removed with special products that are sold in every car dealership, or with white spirit. However, it is strictly forbidden to use gasoline and other solvents.

After the body is cleaned, you should dismantle the front and rear bumpers from the car, remove the decorative grille, radio antenna, headlights with sidelights, direction indicators and external lighting equipment. If there is shock protection in the wheel arches, it must also be removed. Then all surfaces should be well cleaned. Everything that has been removed from the car must also be thoroughly washed, removed rust and dried.

Cleaning up defects

The next advice on how to paint a car is to put it in the light, better on the street to carefully study the condition of the body coating. Relatively large defects (chips, cracks, dents) should be marked with crayon or acrylic paint. After that, it is necessary to examine the car again in order to find the missed defects and mark them again.

Then, using a chisel or a sharpened screwdriver (width of the "sting" 3-5 mm) and sandpaper (No. 60, 80, 100), you should clean out the defective places to metal. Moreover, it is necessary to take into account that the cleaning area should be as close as possible to the area of ​​the defect in order to avoid additional costs of time and material during subsequent processing.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the transition from a defective surface to a non-defective surface should be as smooth as possible.

This can be easily checked by hand on the surface of the body.
After all these work have been carried out, you need to carefully clean the surface of the body from dust again, wipe the cleaned places with a cotton rag. In this case, the rags must be moistened with white spirit. At the end, you need to let the body dry.

During a major overhaul of a car, sometimes it is necessary to clean the body completely. This procedure may seem difficult on the first try, but anything is possible if you wish.

Defect alignment

Next, you should start filling the defects, for which polyester synthetic auto-putty, rubber and metal spatulas are used. In order to repair the defective spots, it is recommended to use a finishing filler, as it is fine-grained, so sanding work will be much easier.

The putty with hardener is mixed with a special metal spatula. The proportions for obtaining the batch are indicated on the bank, however, according to the practice of many motorists, you need to take 2 tablespoons of putty and a hardener 3-4 cm long.

The materials are thoroughly mixed for 30-40 seconds, after which it is necessary to immediately apply the mixture to the defective places, using vigorous cross movements with a turn of 90 degrees. This way you can get a flat, smooth surface that will protrude slightly above the body surface.

It is important to know that a chemical reaction takes place in the putty, and a certain amount of heat is released from 5 minutes after stirring it. This is why you need to work pretty quickly, however, without much fuss.

The putty should not be used when lumps start to appear during application.

The filled area should be completely hardened. This usually happens after 30-45 minutes. To check if the surface of the body is ready, you need to rub the filled area with a dry emery cloth (no. 80). If the filler does not stick to the grains of the paper, and the filler itself is crumbled with dry fine-grained powder, then the hardening is over.

Cleaning the putty surface is done manually with sandpaper
(No. 120-600) until the surface has been brought in geometry and roughness to the values ​​that are identical to the body surface. Cleaning must be carried out in several stages, additionally greasing the prepared putty, if necessary.

It is better to clean the surface without wetting the surface with water, because when water gets into the putties, its quality deteriorates.

The putty areas should be controlled by stroking the treatment areas with your palm. In order to finally control the filled surfaces, they should be well cleaned of dust, wiped with a rag moistened with white spirit and dried.

Then you need to apply a layer of primer to the surface from a spray can (preferably a light gray shade) with a transition to clean surfaces and control the quality of the cleaned surfaces.

Preparing for painting with your own hands

The last preparatory step, before learning how to paint a car correctly, is to thoroughly clean the body of dust.

In addition, using masking tape, you need to glue those parts of the body that cannot be painted (including the need to close the wheels). The shoulder height between unpainted and painted parts should be approximately 0.02 mm. The boundaries of these parts must be positioned along the boundaries of the bend or the boundaries of some of the body parts.

Next, you need to sand the paintwork with sandpaper No. 1200 to a matte state, re-clean the body from dust and wipe it with a rag soaked in white spirit, dry it, carefully check the surface cleanliness.

Also, a little should be said about the room where the painting will be carried out. If the process takes place in the garage, it should be quite large and have a working area of ​​at least 2 m around the perimeter of the machine. Before you start painting the room, you should thoroughly clean it from dirt and dust, moisten the floor with water, paying attention so that dirt, plaster and so on do not fall from the ceiling.

Auto enamel should be purchased with the ability to dry without the ability to bake. The choice of the brand of coating for painting remains with the car owner.

Car painting

In accordance with the instructions for use, you need to dilute the enamel with a solvent to the desired thickness.

Start painting from the roof of the car. It should be painted from a distance of 1.5-2.5 cm from the nozzle of the gun to the surface of the painting with smooth movements. It is necessary to apply 2-3 layers, observing 15 minutes of intermediate drying.

Don't be in a hurry. The development of color and depth occurs only when painting with a second layer. The vehicle dries up completely within
24-36 hours at a temperature of +20 degrees.

Precautions when painting a car

  1. Work only in a respirator and well-ventilated area.
  2. It is necessary to locate the source of air intake outside the room where the painting is taking place.
  3. It is strictly forbidden to smoke indoors.

After the first experience of painting a car, you can always comment on your first experience on our website, as well as give your advice.

Video on how to paint a car yourself at home

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