Or for garlands, etc.
I once ordered a KIT DIY kit from AliExpress - LED running lights (). I was attracted by the ridiculous price of 63 rubles and the opportunity to practice soldering SMD radioelements.
This designer consists of a printed circuit board measuring 20x55mm and, accordingly, a set of necessary radio components. The installation location of all components and their ratings are indicated on the board, so there are no particular difficulties with installation.
The entire manufacturing process and operation of the circuit can be seen in the video:
List of tools and materials
-a set of running lights on a CD4017 or K561IE8 chip ();
-screwdriver;
- scissors;
- soldering iron;
-cambric;
- rechargeable battery from a cell phone;
-12V power supply;
- connecting wires;
- foil PCB for printed circuit board;
- K561TM2 microcircuits;
-resistors;
- transistors KT815 (or analogues);
-LEDs.
Step one. Wiring out the printed circuit board from AliExpress.
All that is needed is to solder the components of the kit onto the board. Due to the miniature size of SMD radioelements, I used a “third hand” with a magnifying glass. First, I soldered resistors, capacitors and other components of the circuit except microcircuits. At the end we solder the microcircuits and LEDs.
This circuit operates from 3 to 15V. The pulse generator is assembled on the NE555 chip, then the pulses are sent to a decimal counter with a decoder - a CD4017 (K561IE8) chip, to the ten outputs of which LEDs are connected through current-limiting resistors. The switching speed of the running lights is regulated by a trimming resistor.
Design diagram.
My circuit worked the first time I turned it on.
Step two. Modernization of the running lights circuit.
Later during the experiments, the CD4017 chip failed. As a quick fix on the wires, I had to replace it with the domestic analogue K561IE8.
I wanted to get more interesting lighting effects of running lights. As a result, I assembled another printed circuit board with K561TM2 triggers and KT815 power switches. A pulse from each K561IE8 output is fed to the trigger input using the “latch” principle, that is, at the trigger output the signal remains constant until the reset pulse arrives from leg 11 of the CD4017(K561IE8) chip. 9 channels are switched on per cycle. Power switches based on KT815 transistors are designed to connect loads up to 1-1.5A. If you need to connect a more powerful load, then you need to replace the KT815 with more powerful transistors. Since I used four K561TM2 microcircuits, I got a circuit with eight channels. In this circuit, you can get 9 channels of LED control, but then you need to add another K561TM2 chip to the circuit by connecting one trigger (the K561TM2 chip consists of two triggers), and also add one transistor switch.
Scheme after modification..
To check the operation, I connected pieces of LED strip with three LEDs to each of the eight channels.
I replaced the 50 kOhm trimming resistor with a 470 kOhm one to expand the limits of pulse frequency adjustment. Found in
The designer of running lights from Aliexpress is a printed circuit board and a set of radio components. All you need to do is solder the components onto the board.
But you can get more interesting effects of running lights from it. For example, for car turn signals or brake lights, or just for garlands for a holiday.
This circuit can operate in the supply voltage range of 3 -15 Volts. The pulse generator is assembled on the NE555 chip, then the pulses are sent to a decimal counter with a decoder - a CD4017 (or K561IE8) chip, to the outputs of which LEDs are connected through current-limiting resistors.
The switching speed of the running lights is regulated by a trimming resistor. Add a circuit with triggers and output transistor switches. No need to program anything, etc. As a result, you can get more interesting lighting effects of running lights. We need to make another printed circuit board with K561TM2 triggers and KT815 power switches. A pulse from each K561IE8 output is fed to the trigger input using the “latch” principle, that is, at the trigger output the signal remains constant until the reset pulse arrives from pin 11 of the CD4017(K561IE8) chip. 9 channels are switched on per cycle.
Quite often, car owners strive to decorate them in a special way. One possible solution to this problem is the use of LED turn signals. In addition to this application, this semiconductor element can be used in car lighting, exterior design (for example, side lights).
Some go even further and install them inside the cabin to express more individuality. One example of such use would be at a door. When stopped, they turn on, the driver or passenger can easily leave the vehicle.
Video: DIY VAZ LED turn signals
Types of LEDs
An LED is a semiconductor radio component that begins to glow when exposed to electric current. The main element in them is silicon. Depending on the type of dopant used in this semiconductor element, the LED can change its light.
The most commonly used types of such microelectronic components are:
- Aluminum, gallium, and nitrogen are used as impurities. Depending on the concentration, the color range varies from blue to green.
- Based on indium, helium, phosphorus. Color can range from red to yellow.
Today, the semiconductor industry produces LEDs in all possible colors. Therefore, there are no problems with this.
One LED is unlikely to be able to illuminate the turn signal, but several can easily cope with this task
Based on power, they are divided into low-power and high-power. Power ones are designed for a current of more than 0.35 A. In turn, low-power ones operate up to this value.
Possible connection diagrams
Today, the most commonly used LEDs are:
- A similar connection is used to switch a long chain of LEDs (for example, along the perimeter of a car). A capacitor-type power supply is used as a voltage source. The current-limiting element in such a circuit is a capacitor. A diode bridge in combination with a filter (usually a set of resistor and capacitor) is used as an AC-to-DC converter. Be sure to install a protective resistor in series with the diode chain, which takes over the excess voltage.
- The second option is to connect LEDs into garlands of 3-6 pieces in series. Several such garlands can be connected in parallel to each other, depending on the power source. The role of the latter in this circuit is played by a stabilized power supply with a voltage of 12-24V. In such a circuit, it is also necessary to install a protective resistor in series with each garland.
- The last, third connection option is direct. In such a circuit, only a power diode can operate, which is designed for a current of more than 0.35A.
The LED has only two legs for connection - anode and cathode. The anode must be connected only to the positive pole of the power source. In turn, the cathode is to negative. If connected differently, this semiconductor element will not work.
Requirements for the performer and instrument
When carrying out any electronic installation, a tester (for taking measurements), a soldering iron, tweezers, and side cutters must be used (if these are not available, you can use pliers, which can also perform this task). To perform calculations and determine the required values, you will need a calculator. Consumable materials include fiberglass (a printed circuit board is made from it - the base for attaching this semiconductor element), solder, rosin, soldering flux and tsaponlak.
It will be difficult to make LED turn signals without a tester
Selection of the most suitable series of elements
The main parameters of any device in this series are the rated voltage. That is, the operating values of these parameters at which the LED retains its original properties. The calculation is made according to Ohm's law for a section of the circuit. Each car has a current source with specified parameters - current and voltage. On the other hand, we have the characteristics of the required LED. The difference between the first and second values will be the characteristics of the resistor that must be connected in series in the circuit. And knowing the parameters of the latter, the entire circuit can be assembled without much difficulty.
Let's carry out the calculation for the simplest circuit, which consists of a stabilized voltage source, an LED and a protective resistor. In other cases, the technique remains almost the same, but only due to the larger number of elements used, the calculation becomes more complicated.
For example, in a car there is a source whose values are respectively 0.02A and 24V. Moreover, a constant voltage source (for example, a battery). The LED needs to receive 0.02A and 2V. Now we determine the value of the potential drop across the resistor:
UR= Upit-Ud,
where UR is the potential drop across the resistor, V
Upit – power source voltage, V
Ud – nominal (operating) potential drop across the diode, V
Using the formula given earlier, we get UR=24-2=22V. All elements of this circuit are connected to each other in series. As a result, the current does not branch off anywhere; at any point in the circuit it will be equal to 0.02A. As a result, we obtain the value of the resistor resistance according to Ohm’s law:
where R is the resistor resistance, Ohm
IR – current in the circuit, A
Substituting the necessary values, we get R=22/0.02=1100 Ohm. Next, we determine the second most important parameter of any resistor - power. It is determined by the formula:
The result is PR = 0.02 * 22 = 0.44 W. From the existing series of resistors, we select the nearest largest values - 1.1 kOhm and 0.5 W. At this point the calculation can be considered complete - the parameters of all elements of the electrical circuit have been determined.
One example of using LEDs
One of the most common uses of these elements in cars is as a . Now let's look at how to make LED turn signals from regular ones.
The procedure is as follows:
- The most suitable connection scheme is selected
- The required LED is selected
- Next, all other radio components of the electrical circuit are calculated
- Based on the calculations performed, protective resistors and other components are selected
- Then a list of necessary radio components is compiled. With this list, you need to visit the nearest store of this profile and buy all the necessary equipment there.
- All necessary documentation is being developed (including a drawing of the printed circuit board and its installation drawing)
- Then you need to make a printed circuit board to mount radio components on it. To do this, a pre-designed pattern is applied to the fiberglass board using varnish. All necessary holes for mounting radio components are drilled. She is immersed in ferric chloride. After the design on the board is etched, it is removed. Wash with plain water. Then the protective layer is removed using a solvent. The next step is rinsing again with running water. And only after that it dries. Upon completion of all completed procedures, we receive a ready-made board for further work. Since there are only 4 turn signals, 4 boards must also be made.
- At the next stage, based on the diagram and the developed board drawing, all elements of the circuit are installed. Upon completion of assembly, all contacts must be opened with tsaponlak (it will provide the necessary insulation and protection of the circuit in case of moisture getting here)
- Then you need to dismantle the old turn signals and carefully disassemble them. And in such a way as not to damage it.
- The old lighting element (lamp) is completely turned off and removed.
- The joints where everything was previously filled with glue must be cleaned using a needle file and sandpaper. Then this joint is degreased with alcohol. Then all this is washed with water and should dry.
- New lighting elements are installed in place of the old lighting element. If necessary, minor design changes can be made to simplify the installation process.
- Then reassemble in reverse order. It is necessary to apply glue to the joint and glue the disassembled turn signal. Then you need to wait until the glue hardens. In the future, this turn signal is installed in the old place and the old wires are connected to it.
- The next step is to make changes to the . To do this, the old wires are broken and an additional stabilized power source is wedged into it (you can purchase it separately or make it yourself). Moreover, its output is set to an LED. The input is supplied with voltage from the contact group of the intermediate relay. It is most convenient to place this element in the dashboard of a car. At the final stage, you need to check the polarity of the connection visually. The anode must be connected only to the positive pole of the power source. In turn, the cathode is to negative. If connected differently, this semiconductor element will not work and may even fail.
- Then it is necessary to inspect the assembled circuit and compare it with the initial version for compliance.
- Next, power is supplied and the functionality of the circuit is checked. If everything is fine, then the installation is complete. Otherwise, it is necessary to find the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it.
Video: homemade turn signals
Conclusion
This article discusses how to make LED turn signals on your own. There is nothing complicated about this, and with sufficient qualifications and well-prepared preliminary work, it can be done without any problems. Thanks to such circuit upgrades, you can achieve significant savings in battery life and significantly extend its service life.
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Many car enthusiasts, in order to improve the appearance of their car, tune their “Swallow” with LED lights. One of the tuning options is a running turn signal, which draws the attention of other road users. The article provides instructions for installing and configuring turn signals with running lights.
[Hide]
Assembly instructions
LED lamps are semiconductor elements that glow when exposed to electric current. The main element in them is silicon. Depending on what impurities are used, the color of the light bulbs changes.
Photo gallery “Possible options for dynamic direction indicators”
Tools and materials
To make a running turn signal with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
- soldering iron;
- side cutters or pliers;
- soldering iron and soldering material;
- tester.
You need to prepare fiberglass laminate from consumables. It is needed for the manufacture of a printed circuit board on which the semiconductor element will be placed. The required LEDs are selected. Depending on the characteristics of the LEDs and the current and voltage values of the on-board network, the characteristics of the protective resistors are calculated. Using calculations, the remaining components of the network are selected (the author of the video is Evgeny Zadvornov).
Work sequence
Before making turn signals, you need to choose a suitable scheme.
Then, based on the diagram, make a printed circuit board and apply markings on it to place future elements.
The assembly consists of a sequence of actions:
- First, you should turn off the power to the car by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
- Next, you need to remove the old turn signals and carefully disassemble them.
- Old light bulbs should be unscrewed.
- The joints should be cleaned of glue, degreased, washed and allowed to dry.
- In place of each old element, a new running light turn signal is installed.
- Next, assembly and installation of the lights is done in the reverse order.
- After installation, the wires are connected.
At the next stage, an additional stabilized power source is connected to the network. Its input receives power from the intermediate relay, and the output is connected to a diode. It is better to place it in the instrument panel.
When connecting LEDs, you must ensure that the anode is connected to the plus of the power source, and the cathode to the minus. If the connection is not made correctly, the semiconductor elements will not light up and may even burn out.
Features of installation and configuration of running direction indicators
You can install dynamic turn signals instead of conventional LEDs. To do this, the board with LEDs and current-limiting resistors is removed and dismantled. On the repeater you need to tear the glass away from the body. Then you should carefully cut out the reflector and remove it.
In place of the remote reflector, an SMD 5730 board is installed, on which yellow LEDs are located. Since the repeater has a curved shape, the board will have to be delaminated and bent a little. You need to cut off the part with the connector from the old board and solder it to connect the controller. Then all components are returned to their place.
To adjust the timing of the running LED lights, a switch is soldered to the microcontroller. When a suitable speed is found, jumpers are soldered in place of the switch. When connecting two pins to ground, the minimum time between LED flashes will be 20 ms. When the contacts are closed, this time will be 30 ms.
Price issue
You can make a running light turn signal from daytime running lights. Their cost is 600 rubles. In this case, you can use “pixel” RGB LEDs as light sources in the amount of 7 pieces for each running turn signal. The cost of one element is 19 rubles. To control the LEDs, you need to purchase an Arduino UNO costing 250 rubles. Thus, the total cost will be 1060 rubles.
I said “Gop” last year - it’s time to jump :)
Or rather, do the promised review of running turn signals.
I ordered 1 meter of black WS2812B tape (144 LEDs) in a silicone tube, when ordering I chose “Black 1m 144led IP67” (perhaps someone will like the white color of the substrate, there is such a choice).
A word of caution
I received a tape soldered from two half-meter pieces. The downside of this is a vulnerable soldering point (contacts may break over time) and an increased gap between the LEDs.
Before purchasing, check with the seller about this point. 
Contact wires were soldered to the tape on both sides to connect several pieces in series, because I didn’t need this, so I unsoldered the wires on one side, sealed everything with a neutral sealant and wrapped a little more black electrical tape.
Attached to the glass using double-sided transparent adhesive tape, for example.
Installation details
I degreased the surfaces, first glued adhesive tape to the tube (I’ll call it that, even though the cross-section is rectangular), cut off the protruding excess of the wider tape, pushed the edges of the tube into the cracks between the ceiling and the upper parts of the decorative panels of the rear pillars (the contact wires with the connector were hidden behind one panel ), centered it and began to press it against the glass, slowly pulling out the protective layer of the tape.
Unfortunately, there is no video - there were no free hands for filming, and everyone’s car is different.
If anything is unclear, ask in the comments.
The test in the summer heat was successful - nothing came off or floated.
The only negative is that the angle of the glass is gentle, the LEDs shine more upward. On a sunny day it’s hard to see, but since these are duplicate signals, 
Now let's move on to the electronic stuffing.
I used it, but discovered it not long ago
For about the same cost we get more goodies
The sketch will work without any special modifications on Wemos when programming in the Arduino IDE, and if you implement a small web server, then when connected to it via Wi-Fi, you can change the values of variables such as the delay time between flashes, the amount of deceleration during emergency braking etc.
Here in the future, if someone is interested in implementing a project on the ESP8266, I can post an example for changing settings via the web interface, saving them in EEPROM, and then reading them.
The web server can be launched, for example, through the turn signal being turned on and the brake pedal being pressed when the ignition is turned on (in the setup procedure, poll the status of the corresponding inputs).
To implement a flashing mode during heavy braking, I purchased
The sketch monitors the level of deceleration when pressing the brake pedal; if it exceeds 0.5G (sharp deceleration, but without squealing brakes), then a flashing mode is turned on for a few seconds to attract additional attention.
Control signals to the Arduino inputs from the “plus” of stops, turn signals and reverse are supplied through galvanic isolation - optocouplers with current limiting resistors, which ultimately form the LOW level at the Arduino inputs (constantly pulled to positive through 10 kOhm resistors).
Power supply - 5 volts via a DC-DC step-down converter.
The whole thing is folded into a sandwich and packed in a suitable box, on which the installation direction is marked with an arrow for the correct orientation of the gravity sensor
Diagram and photo
The nominal value of pull-up (to positive) resistors is standard - 10 kOhm, limiting the current of the optocoupler resistors - 1 kOhm. I removed the optocouplers from old boards, two were PC123, two were PC817. 
In the first photo you can see two additional terminals; I made them for the turn signals. Since in my car there is a short to ground when the steering column lever is turned on, I connected the wires to the lever block and the Arduino inputs. If the steering column lever switches the plus or you take the signal from the “+” of the left/right turn signal lamps, then connect them through galvanic isolation. 
Well, now the sketch itself (Arduino IDE)
#include
I tried to comment on it as much as possible, but if there are questions, I will try to add comments (that’s why I’m placing it in the text of the review, and not as an attached file). This, by the way, also applies to other points of the review - I will also supplement it if there are significant questions in the comments.
And finally, a demonstration of the work (for the video I used a sketch with demo mode).
Upd. I made the sketch with the demo mode specifically to fit everything into one short video.
The brake light flashes only during hard braking (this was discussed above); during slow braking and when standing in traffic jams, it simply lights up, without irritating the drivers behind.
The brightness at night is not excessive, because Due to the tilt of the glass, the lights are directed more upward than backward.
The standard lights work as usual, this strip duplicates them.
I'm planning to buy +97 Add to favorites I liked the review +89 +191
