I'm not a fan of high-speed driving: 40-50 km/h in the vicinity of the dacha is quite fast for me. And in order to move one hundred kilograms of “my majesty”, neither exorbitant power nor the elephantine mass of the carrying “piece of iron” is needed.
Someone will advise: well, take a fifty-kopeck scooter!
Firstly, the “stools” are a bit expensive. Secondly, in a village where there is a dacha, this is “equipment until the first breakdown” - it’s unlikely that 300 km from the city I can easily find an imported spare part if necessary.
Thirdly, the scooter weighs a lot: how can you transport it to your dacha in a passenger car? Drive under your own power? Not funny! After 300 km of travel I will be left without arms, without legs, without a fifth point...
Two “idlers” who have become related are going to the dacha.
When I was thinking about this, I came across the article “We’re riding standing up” in “Moto” No. 9, 2005. The author told how he adapted a “cheap” motor to a scooter. I was hooked and I rushed to the bike market.
But the trouble is, the sellers unanimously claimed that they were not releasing the “cheap” product now (maybe they were lying?). I don’t know how it would have ended, but I remembered “Mole”. The one that “lives” in my dacha and cultivates the soil for only two days a year: one in May, the second in September. Its 60 cc two-stroke is twice as powerful as the “cheap” one - 2.6 “horses” versus 1.3. Assembled with gas tank, muffler, manual starter, air filter and gearbox. And I decided to adapt it to another “loafer” - a folding bicycle that had been collecting dust on the mezzanine for three years.
Gas lever (indicated by arrow).
I made a shelf from a 5mm duralumin sheet and installed it instead of the rear trunk. It is held in a vertical plane by two racks from an old bicycle. In the longitudinal one there is a hole with which it is put on the pipe; a saddle is fixed in the hole. And the lateral stability of the structure is guaranteed by the slope on the right side. The motor was screwed onto this fairly rigid structure with four bolts.
On the left of the steering wheel: 1 - clutch release lever; 2 - lock lever; 3 - ignition switch button.
The drive to the rear wheel was made by a belt, with a tension roller from the timing belt of the VAZ-V8. The drive pulley was left standard, and the driven one matched the gear ratio from the MB walk-behind tractor. It is aluminum, two-strand. On a lathe I cut off the extra stream - the one that is wider. How do you attach the pulley to the wheel? I found another pulley (the inclination of the side surfaces of most pulleys corresponds to the angle of inclination of the spokes), and made cuts in it with a “grinder” that coincided with the crosshairs of the spokes. I installed it exactly in the center of the wheel using a special bushing. I drilled holes in it and bolted it to the spokes through large washers. And I already screwed the driven pulley to it with three screws. The gear ratio turned out to be extremely successful. And one more thing: the drive pulley is double, and next to the engine on the shelf there is enough space for a small generator. Do you catch the thread?
Clutch mechanism: 1 - cable; 2 - plate; 3 - bolts - guide plates; 4 - roller; 5 - springs.
The Mole does not have a clutch mechanism. Why not transfer this function to a belt drive? To do this, the roller tensioning the belt was not fixed rigidly - it was constantly pressed by a spring. If you squeeze it and move the roller away, the belt slips. Here's your clutch! The clutch release lever is homemade. The free play of the plate with the roller is as much as 7 cm (this is with a margin - after all, the belt stretches out over time), and for motorcycle clutch levers it is no more than 2 cm. What happened can be seen in the photo. The disadvantage of the design is that you have to directly, without a reinforcing arm, “fight” with the springs of the tension roller. But this can be tolerated - my car does not have a gearbox, so I have to operate the clutch lever very rarely - only during starts and stops. The lever in the clamped position secures a small locking lever. It helps out when you need to disengage the clutch for a long time, for example, when riding “like a bicycle.” Instead of a clutch cable, I inserted a thin steel wire lubricated with lithol into the braid. The braid does not have sharp bends, so the wire moves easily in it. The main advantage of such a replacement is that the wire is much more reliable than the cable that is in short supply in the village.
The main component is under the baseball cap.
Front and rear brakes are regular bicycle brakes. The rest of the controls on the steering wheel are standard from the “Mole”: on the left is the “jammer”, on the right under the thumb is the gas lever.
Conducted tests in December. Starting the motor with a cord. I started using the pedals. Two or three turns - and you can forget about them.
By the way, the forced cooling fan of the “Mole” ensures that the motor does not overheat at low speed. I asked a car driver I knew to drive in sync with me to record the speed. It turned out that the “maximum speed” is over 60 km/h. But such a speed seemed dangerous to me - it was a bicycle after all. And at 40 km/h it’s pure pleasure! For this engine, “forty” is a walking mode. Any rise is a trifle for him.
This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.
What did I get? What I wanted. In the trunk of my Zhiguli, it’s easy to put an individual folding vehicle weighing 32 kg (bicycle - 20, motor - 12), capable of moving “my majesty” at a speed of 60 km/h and a little faster. Assembly and disassembly takes five to ten minutes. Gasoline consumption is no more than 2-2.5 liters per 100 km. There is nothing to break in my design. In stock it is enough to keep a belt, one or two meters of steel wire and a tension roller from the “eight”! And as a last resort, there are pedals.
This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 - machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.
Common data:
- dry weight - 32 kg,
- length - 1830 mm,
- height - 1100 mm,
- saddle height - 850-950 mm,
- width - 600 mm,
- base - 1230 mm,
- ground clearance - 180 mm,
- gas tank volume - 1.8 l,
- maximum speed is more than 60 km/h.
Engine- “Mole”, displacement - 60 cm3, power - 2.6 hp, carburetor - K60V.
Transmission:
homemade belt drive, belt - 1400 mm,
driving pulley - standard 60 mm, outer diameter of driven pulley - 255 mm
(optimal for wheel diameter 600 mm). Chassis:
folding bike "Impulse".
Tires:
front and rear - 47-507.
Brakes:
regular bicycle ones. Electrical equipment: not yet available.
The article discusses an example of creating a powerful motorbike that runs on electricity. The engine used here is a power unit with a capacity of 15 horsepower and an operating voltage of 48V. A Felt beach cruiser was taken as a basis. This model was chosen because the homemade product required a strong bicycle with the correct shape, on which all the necessary elements could be placed. You can use another bicycle, the main thing is that the frame has the necessary strength and bending.
The primary goal was to place the center of gravity as low as possible to road level.
Materials and tools for homemade work:
- Briggs and Stratton electric motor;
- as a controller for the Alltrax AX 300A engine;
- throttle grip (Magura 0-5K Ohm);
- rechargeable batteries 4x12V, 21A/h (lead-acid, sealed);
- moped chain #35;
- disc brake type Avid Bb7 160 mm;
- 13-tooth drive sprocket;
- driven sprocket with 66 teeth;
- large switch;
- 300A fuse;
- support for the engine (made of stainless steel with a diameter of 21 cm, installed instead of the carriage).
And of course you will need wrenches, welding, cutting tools, and so on.
Bike Upgrade Process:
Step one. Replacing the plug
The original rigid fork was removed from the bike. Instead, a fork with a Manitou shock absorber is installed.
Step two. Disc brakes
The disc brake was secured with bolts. It was decided to abandon hydraulics, since mechanics are simpler and cheaper. The unique thing about the Avid BB7 model is that it is fully adjustable, this will allow you to configure each of them individually.
Since the original version of the bike had a foot brake installed (it turns on when you pedal backwards), it was necessary to make a special mount in the area of the dropouts to install a disc brake. A hacksaw was used to cut the required piece of steel. Next, a drilling machine was needed to drill the necessary holes to mount the brake system.
Step three. Rear hub
A double front hub was used as the rear hub. It had the standard 6-bolt mounting points for mountain bikes. As a result, 6 holes were drilled into the sprocket exactly so that it would fit these 6 bolts. It is very important to accurately align the hub, brake rotor and sprocket on the same axis.
The brake mount is welded, the wheels are screwed to the bushings. The top stay of the frame needed to be bent so that the driven sprocket and chain would not cling to it.
Step four. Engine mount
The engine mount is welded from stainless steel sheets. It is welded into place of the carriage. The mount itself is in a ring, this ring was made from a piece of a lamp post. The ring width is 11 cm and the diameter is 21 cm. Considering the dimensions of the engine, the gap is only 3 mm. To allow air flow to cool the engine, the ring was drilled on a drill press. Accuracy is important here, since if the chain is skewed it will constantly fly off.
At the same stage, the footrests are installed. The footpeg mounts are made from a pair of light stands that the author welded together. As for the footpegs themselves, aluminum pegs for BMX are suitable here.
Step five. Frame modification
The author removed the factory saddle holder from the bicycle. It was then shortened and welded to the frame stays above the rear wheel. To increase the strength of the structure, a reinforcing insert was installed.
A rubber cap is placed on the seat tube and the saddle clamp is unfolded.
Final Steps
In the photo you can see what the bicycle frame looks like, on which you can already install the engine and batteries. Thanks to its powerful wheels and low saddle position, the bike resembles a retro motorcycle.
The batteries are held using special trays made of aluminum. The trays are riveted to each other and then secured with bolts to the right and left panels. In the center you can see the power switch. To make the switch contacts easy to reach, the author made the panels asymmetrical.
The controller is located under the top tube and is mounted upside down, with its contacts facing backwards.
After installing all the necessary elements and connecting the wires, the bike was tested. According to the author, it accelerated quite intensively, but no one measured its maximum speed. It is estimated that he should travel at a speed of about 80 km/h.
The installed controller has quite flexible settings; it can be connected to a computer using RS-232 and the acceleration dynamics can be adjusted, and it is also possible to monitor statistics.
In Europe, a bicycle with a motor has been replacing a car for quite some time. You can travel long distances on it without special training, without experiencing any discomfort. The bike will take you on different terrain and in any weather. They came to us in Russia relatively recently, so not everyone can afford to buy such a moped; it’s cheaper to assemble the bike yourself. Creating a bicycle with a motor with your own hands is quite a difficult task for an unprepared person, but nothing is impossible. There are several ways to make an electric bicycle:
- Install a wheel motor instead of the base one;
- Make a bicycle with a chainsaw motor.
Mounting the wheel motor
This is the simplest way to make an electric bicycle, although only people who know how to work with electrics can call it simple. The operating principle of this wheel is based on converting current (DC to AC) using a controller that you will receive with the wheel. There you will see a handle to control this design. In order to assemble it with your own hands, you will first need to remove the existing wheel. You will need to install a motor in place of the old one; at this stage it is extremely important to meet one condition: the power wires must be located to the left relative to the direction of movement. Otherwise, the structure will rotate in the other direction. We attach the battery to the frame and attach the controller. To prevent your moped from getting stuck on the road during rain, the controller must be protected from moisture. The moisture insulation can be anything, from whatever is available, the main thing is that it is reliable! After this, you need to install and connect all the electrical equipment that comes with the kit.
A step-by-step connection diagram is also attached. If you have never worked with such devices, it is better to contact your friends or specialists.
Chainsaw motor
You can assemble an electric bicycle using a chainsaw engine. Many may think that if you use a chainsaw motor as an engine, such a vehicle simply will not move, but this is not so. Typically, a chainsaw motor has a power of 1.5 hp, which is enough to carry an adult weighing up to one hundred kilograms at a speed of 25 km/h, with good acceleration.
The engine is mounted between the saddle and the frame; for fastening, you can, for example, use a metal clamp. You can make the fastenings yourself, or buy ready-made ones in the store. Then we install the bushing. We will pull a drive belt onto it, the size of which directly depends on the diameter of the wheels of your bicycle. During installation, it is necessary to eliminate possible distortions, since the entire work will depend on this. To regulate the operation of the engine, a corresponding lever is installed on the bicycle handlebar. You can install it instead of a brake lever, since during sharp braking such a vehicle can easily roll over due to its low weight.
Assembling a bicycle with a motor may not be easy, but you will fully experience the benefits of your work. Firstly, a chainsaw motor installed on your bicycle will allow you to ride it over long distances and not feel tired at all. From an ordinary bicycle you will get a full-fledged moped, which is in no way inferior to it in speed and convenience.
The only inconvenience that will occur if you install such an engine is noise. Our design will sound the same as a running chainsaw, which can be intimidating for many.
In general, if you decide to create a bicycle with a chainsaw motor, you will get a good bike for little money.
Motorized bicycles are becoming fashionable.
If you are eager to make a bicycle with a motor with your own hands, then get ready for the fact that you will have to work a little. In this article we will tell you how to install a wheel motor on a bicycle and how to make a bicycle with a chainsaw motor your own.
BICYCLE WITH A MOTOR WITH YOUR HANDS: INSTALLING A MOTOR WHEEL
The easiest and most affordable way to make a bicycle with a motor with your own hands is to install a motor wheel. Connecting a wheel motor is not as simple a task as a person who has never encountered it might think. The most difficult part of this process is connecting the electrical connections.
By purchasing a wheel motor, you also become the owner of a controller, Pas system, throttle handle, charger and brake handle, which are included in the kit.
Since the wheel motor is driven by alternating current, the need for a controller is due to the need to convert direct current from the battery into alternating current.
The PAS system is needed in order to activate the electric motor while the cyclist is pedaling.
On special brake handles there is a microswitch designed to cut off the power current from the motor during braking.
To install the wheel motor yourself, you will need to perform the following steps:
- First of all, you need to put the bike with the wheels up and dismantle the old rear wheel. In place of the old wheel, you will need to install a new wheel with an electric motor. The wheel motor is installed so that the bundle of power wires is on the left, in the direction of movement of the bicycle. If this requirement is not taken into account, the wheel motor will simply spin in a different direction.
- After attaching the wheel motor, you will need to attach the batteries to the bicycle frame and connect the controller. When connecting the controller, a very important point is its additional insulation. You can, for example, protect the device with a plastic bag.
- Next, the remaining equipment is connected. Do not forget that all electronics must be connected to the battery through a 20A fuse; it will prevent the system from burning out if a short circuit occurs. You will find a detailed installation and connection diagram in the delivery package for the wheel motor.
BIKE WITH A CHAINSAW MOTOR WITH YOUR OWN HANDS
Over time, many cycling enthusiasts get tired of simply pedaling, and their engineering talent and imagination push them to take such a step as installing an engine on a bicycle. A chainsaw is perfect as a “donor” for the motor. But how to assemble a bicycle with a chainsaw motor with your own hands? Let's try to figure this out.
Let's take a chainsaw engine with a power of 1.5 hp. Many will doubt that a motor of such power will move a bicycle with a 100-kilogram cyclist, but believe me, there is no need to worry: the bicycle will easily accelerate and pick up a speed of 30–35 km/h.
For the sake of fairness, it must be said that acceleration cannot be called fast, but this does not interfere with driving. What's good is that with such an engine you will hardly smell gasoline, which makes it possible to store it at home.
Naturally, while driving there is a crackling sound, like a regular chainsaw, which means that you will be moving with quite a loud sound.
The engine is mounted above the frame under the saddle using a metal clamp. You can buy a mount from a bicycle motor manufacturer, and they will be equipped with perforations to adjust the height at which the motor will be mounted, but this is overkill.
The bushing to which the belt is tensioned from the engine is secured with special washers and screws. There are bushings of different diameters for different wheels: from the smallest to simply huge, for 28-inch wheels.
The inside of these bushings has a rubberized surface. Based on what was said earlier, it is not difficult to guess that the drive belt needs to be selected taking into account the diameter of the bushing and the diameter of the wheel. An important point is that the sleeve must be fixed evenly, eliminating any distortions.
"Gas" lever. It is controlled using a cable that regulates the angle at which the damper in the engine carburetor will deflect. This lever is similar to the brake lever on a bicycle, which means that you will accelerate without turning the handle, as in a moped, but by pressing the lever, as in a chainsaw.
Sellers of bicycle motors offer an option that is mounted on the handlebars, but it is better to connect the throttle cable to the handle of the front brakes and remove the brakes themselves, since, given the low weight of the vehicle, you will definitely do a forward somersault if you press the front brake at a speed of even 20 km/hour
Let's summarize the result you should get: a great bike at a low price. Very nimble and a lot of fun. Although, this option also has its drawbacks: due to the noise, every dog in the holiday village considers you a personal enemy, trying to catch up with you and bite you!
In modern life, everyone can provide themselves with personal motorized transport if they know how to make a moped from a bicycle.
Before considering ways to transform a pedal horse into a moped, you need to clarify what this moped is. This is a vehicle whose engine capacity does not exceed 50 cubic centimeters. In theory, this vehicle develops a speed of no more than 50 km/h. Well, the most important difference from a motorcycle is that in the classic version the moped has a bicycle drive with a chain drive to the rear wheel. The movement begins like a bicycle, and then the engine starts. In general terms, this is a moped. Now about how to build it.
First of all, you will need a motor. Nowadays it is very easy to get it. The market is full of gasoline engines for brush cutters, chainsaws and even motor cultivators. The most compact and lightest are, of course, engines from scythes and saws. However, not all of them have sufficient power. If you want to ride without pedaling and with the breeze, then you need an engine with a power of at least two horsepower. If the engine still has less power, then you can use it. One of the advantages of compact motors for scythes and saws is that the gas tank is mounted directly on them, which in turn will save space and eliminate the need for additional hoses.
In the simplest version, the engine is mounted above the rear wheel using clamps. To do this, you need to make a base for the engine. It is made of steel (thickness no less than 3-4mm) by welding. The design depends on the design of the bike. After securing the motor, it needs to be connected to the wheel.
Rotation from the engine to the wheel can be transmitted either through a drive belt or through a chain. In the first case, you will have to mount a pulley on the wheel - install a bicycle wheel rim of a smaller diameter. In the second case, you will need to install a gear.
Now all that’s left to do is move the gas to the bicycle handlebars. It's quite simple. The only thing you need is a cable of sufficient length and a handle (can be the same as that of a manual bicycle brake). All this can be easily purchased at any auto store, bicycle supply store, or found at a scrap metal collection point.
Of course, depending on the design features of the bicycle, some additional nuances may arise. You'll have to put your hands and head to work. But when everything is ready you will need the article ““. Shurikens may come in handy to fend off friends who are chasing you, shouting “let’s go for a ride.”
And in this video you can see a finished version of such a hand-made moped in action:
