The popularity of such a compact, lightweight and safe form of transport as a folding electric bicycle is growing from year to year. How to make such a design with your own hands to save on purchases?
Advantages
Experts say that to make a fashionable and durable design, all you need is a little ingenuity, buy the appropriate parts - and your faithful electric horse is ready. It has many advantages:
- with such transport you can easily move around a city full of traffic jams;
- it does not require a driver's license;
- no need for fuel, just recharging for the electrical controller;
- it helps maintain athletic shape due to the muscular strength used;
- a homemade electric bicycle made with your own hands helps you to be independent of stores and market prices.
The average unit reaches speeds of up to 42 kilometers per hour, and at cruising speed it goes at 26 kilometers per hour.
The weight of the entire device will be up to 35 kilograms. To make a high-quality and reliable model from available materials, you should use the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.
We make wheeled vehicles ourselves
Where does the assembly of the entire model begin? First, we need to decide what the result should look like and what goals we want to achieve with the help of this transport. You can buy a special kit for an electric bicycle - it greatly simplifies the entire assembly work. But the most important thing that is needed is the unit itself with a thicker frame on which an electric motor can be installed.
You can find the necessary parts and components at sales, in stores for inventors, and in markets with technical goods. An advanced student can easily assemble an electric bicycle with his own hands in 30 minutes.
Main Components
Typically you need a 48-volt motor, a sturdy bike that can handle it, and some tools and mounts. As well as patience and resourcefulness, readiness for technical tests.
Additionally you will need:
- special controller with programmable control;
- acid batteries for the power system;
- disc brake (2 pcs.) rotor type, mechanical;
- moped chain;
- “asterisk” with 13 and 66 teeth;
- switches;
- circuit breakers;
- stainless steel motor mounts.
Some craftsmen prefer to assemble a folding bicycle, which in seconds can turn from a regular one into a cargo bike or fit in the trunk. The collapsible version is convenient for many reasons - reduced wheel size, ease of transportation in an elevator.
The essence of the modification is to cut the frame, to which connecting units are welded in two places. They are fixed with special bolts, screws and the procedure for assembling and disassembling the unit at home takes less than 1-2 minutes.
Engine selection
A homemade electric bicycle requires the installation of an appropriate technical superstructure that will facilitate muscular efforts. The main element of the entire structure is the engine. It is selected according to the desired voltage and current. In this case, the resulting power should be around 400 watts, then it will be possible to reach speeds of up to 30 kilometers per hour with a gearbox. The travel range can also reach 30 kilometers, depending on the battery power.
Before choosing a model, it is important to consider the balance between the voltage and capacity of the battery and the voltage and capacity of the engine. For example, when choosing a 500-watt, 12-volt motor, you need a battery with a capacity of 40 amperes per hour. The permissible capacity is calculated according to Ohm's law. At a normal level of discharge, the battery will last longer and be more reliable. To save energy, it is better to accelerate with muscle power while standing on the pedals - this will save energy by a factor of 1.2. It is better to spend the charge on more difficult areas while moving: hills and slides, dirt roads.
Resistor setting
A three-wheeled adult or two-wheeled electric bicycle equally requires the presence of throttle grips. The variable resistor option helps control the speed change and the number of engine revolutions. Having calculated the AC power, take the appropriate device with the required voltage. Opening contacts are installed on the brake handle - their position is always closed, allowing electricity to pass through the circuit. Pressing the contacts opens and closes the circuit - the engine stops or accelerates.
Typically, a standard e-bike kit contains the necessary parts for assembly. The master's task is to make sure that the engine stops when pressure is applied to the brake handle. To do this, take two aluminum pieces. One is installed on the moving parts of the brakes, the second on the stationary parts. Connecting this combination to the open circuit of the motor, which is attached to the brackets by welding, provides a functional electric brake.
Scheme development
To assemble an electric bicycle with your own hands in 30 minutes, you need a minimum of skills, but knowledge of some laws of physics is required.
For example, Ohm's law, resistance of materials or electrical conductivity of various substances. By drawing up a simple diagram in accordance with classical technical requirements, you can clearly see gaps in the design, the causes of possible problems or opportunities for further modification.
The electric bicycle circuit includes the following elements:
- bicycle body;
- current source;
- engine;
- variable resistor for introducing an open circuit;
- battery.
Different schemes make it possible to improve the invention and accelerate vehicles to higher speeds using the same battery.
Choosing a controller
The main difference between a classic vehicle and an electrified one is the presence of a special control device. This is a controller for an electric bicycle, which is a box that manipulates the traction of the entire unit. If your country has a speed limit for cycling, this device will help you set the limit while riding. Most often it is 25 kilometers per hour.
The design of such a sensor does not include electric brushes.
But there is a processor that monitors the position of the wheel rim magnets. The controller allows you to optimally distribute the load on the wheels, reduce heat generation, and allow the engine to normalize the effort of moving without jerking.
Developed movement algorithms help you move evenly and at the same speed.
Operating rules
Today you can see with your own eyes quite a few vehicles assembled by craftsmen. They perform mountain climbs, dangerous stunts, and conquer gorges. But you can simply enjoy a good, reliable car that has received a second wind thanks to the engine.
It is important to follow the technology for making an electric bicycle with your own hands in 30 minutes, but you need to pay no less attention to the recommendations for the correct use of this vehicle.
You cannot constantly overstress the battery by exceeding the set speed in the engine. Also, the bike should not be placed in the sun - the battery may overheat and lose capacity by 80% of its original volume. Temperatures around 40-45 degrees are especially dangerous in hot countries.
You can assemble an electric bicycle with your own hands in 30 minutes with sufficient quality. It will last for many years if you follow safety precautions and correctly follow all recommendations.
So, we figured out how to make a homemade folding electric bike. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this.
This article will talk about how you can turn a regular bicycle into an electric one with your own hands. Such a bicycle will run on a battery, which, when discharged, can always be recharged and then ride on. Of course, there are already many ready-made solutions for this kind of homemade product, for example a wheel motor, but here everything is assembled from scratch.
According to the author, the homemade product fully met its expectations. Since the engine used here is not very powerful, the bike cannot move from a standstill; you first need to accelerate it with your feet to a speed of 10-15 km/h, which is not so difficult. Well, then the electric motor comes into action, which keeps the bike moving and you no longer need to turn the pedals. The electric motor accelerates the bike to 34 km/h when moving in a straight line.
The bike consumes 100-300 watts when moving on a straight road. When driving downhill, consumption increases to 600-800 watts; to save money, you can help with your feet.
The peak current consumption of the motor was 1200 watts.
Materials and tools for assembling a homemade product:
- electric motor type 6354 kv200
- ESC speed controller
- wattmeter (copy of Turnigy 130A);
- battery type LiPO 6S 22.2V 5a-h;
- bicycle throttle (controlled with your thumb);
- brake handles (they have a pressure sensor);
- rear trunk (used as a structural element);
- 16 tooth ratchet;
- gears and belt (ready-made).
Bike Upgrade Process:
Step one. Sprocket installation
In most cases, the sprocket is attached to the spokes, but the author decided to abandon this design. As a result, the sprocket was bolted to the brake disc. On the disc you can also see six screws in a circle and two closer to the center of the brake disc. These screws secure the threads so that the disc does not unscrew while driving.
Step two. Installing the ratchet
The ratchet is installed on the cup from the carriage; a ring from the original cup is used for fixation.
Step three. Rear hub
The rear bushing acts as an intermediate shaft. It is installed in a U-shaped section of professional pipe.
Step four. Installing a Large Gear
A pin is used to secure the gear. Otherwise, the bushing will clamp itself with cones. There is a groove in the gear and the pin fits into a hole that is in the shaft. As a result, the pin fits into the groove of the wheel.
Step five. Small gear
To fix the small gear, two goujons are used.
Step six. Engine Installation
To mount the engine, a standard crosspiece is used to an L-shaped structure, which the author found in the bins.
Step seven. Attach the chain tensioner
The chain tensioner is attached to the side of the trunk. Everything is mounted on a structured plate made from a thick sheet of aluminum.
General view of the bike
Step eight. Homemade electrical circuit
How the circuit works can be seen in the picture. It has been slightly modified in comparison with the original. So, for example, the variable resistor was removed from the servo tester and a hall sensor from the throttle control knob was installed in its place. The author installed a 1 kOhm boost resistor in the button circuit; without it, the modes switched spontaneously, probably due to interference.
Another nuance of the electrical part is that the author separated the power plus and the measuring plus. Also in the future, it makes sense to install an isolated 5V to 9V converter, due to the fact that there are underestimated power readings.
As for the battery, it works without BMS. To prevent overdischarge, the author used a battery monitor that was set to 3.3 V. When the voltage gets too low, the device starts making a sound.
The battery is charged with an IMAX B6 clone, using Li-Io mode with balancing.
It all started last year when I started cycling to work more and more often because... the wait in the car crowd, after a working day, the moment of arriving home began to become more and more stressful. The journey from home to work by bicycle took almost the same time as by car. But taking into account the fact that most of the route passed along roads on which there was practically no car traffic, along the coastal strip of the reservoir and a picturesque alley, where sports-oriented people warmed up in the morning hours, and the shore was decorated with yawning fishermen with fishing rods - riding cycling also gave me moral satisfaction from admiring everything that was happening around me.
The only drawback that marred the commute to work was the hill, about 300 meters long with a rather steep climb, when entering which you had to drop into lower gears and apply considerable effort. The consequence of this was an uncomfortable state before the start of the working day in the office.
The idea was born to equip your bicycle with an engine that would help in difficult times. Having studied quite a few videos on YouTube, the endless-sphere.com forum and other resources about electrifying a bicycle at home, a picture of how to solve the problem was formed in my head. All that remains is to implement it.
The idea of buying a ready-made kit with a front-wheel drive motor seemed banally simple to me, and two other reasons: low developed power (up to 500 W) and high cost - did not play in its favor.
The emphasis was on rear-wheel drive and the use of a brushless motor. The efficiency of such a solution, it seemed, should be higher than the use of a front-wheel drive motor.
Having already had some experience in radio modeling, I decided to use components from HobbyKing to implement my idea, as the main ones when building an electric bicycle. The mechanic decided to use one that was easy to get at any auto or bicycle store.
Components
The following components were used to build the electric bike:
HobbyKing
Engine (RUB 1,500)
Engine controller (RUB 700)
Rechargeable battery (RUB 1,300)
Servo tester (200 rub.)
Charger (RUB 700)
Power wires (red / black) (200 RUR)
Connectors 1, connectors 2 (200 rub.)
Wattmeter (optional) (600 RUR)
Heat shrink (optional)
Auto shop
Generator pulley VAZ-2108, 4 pcs. (500 rub.)
Alternator belt VAZ-2108, 2 pcs. (200 rub.)
Bicycle shop
Freevil (150 rub.)
Bushing, 2 pcs. (500 rub.)
Chain (150 rub.)
Gear shifter (300 RUR)
Zvezda 52T (300 rub.)
Hardware store
Diamond blade 150 mm (RUB 150)
Screws, nuts, washers (RUB 150)
Aluminum profile 20×10 (RUB 100)
Total 7300 rub.
Since I planned to build the electric bicycle with rear-wheel drive, I decided to use a chain drive to transmit torque to the rear wheel, and to increase the transmission ratio, install a sprocket with a large number of teeth.
Initially, I planned to cut a star with the required number of teeth using laser cutting in some workshop, but searching for a ready-made 3D template of the required configuration took a lot of time and did not lead to anything useful. Ordering cutting along with making a template by the designer cost a pretty penny (about 1,500 rubles). This negated the main principle of the conceived idea - minimizing the cost of custom-made components and using available ready-made inexpensive components.
Therefore, the largest 52T sprocket, removed from the cassette, was purchased from a bicycle shop (bike workshop). And to attach it to the rear wheel hub, a diamond disc for an angle grinder of suitable diameter (15 cm) was purchased at a hardware store. The central hole of the disk had to be bored out with a drill and file to the required diameter of the rear wheel hub. This structure is fastened to the rear wheel with three bolts to the spokes. It is advisable to use “eared” nuts for fastening, which cling well to the spokes, as well as self-locking nuts (with a liner). The star should be balanced on a spinning wheel so that there is no beating in different directions.
To prevent torque from being transferred to the motor from the spinning wheel, I used a 16-tooth freewheel, which is easy to buy at any bike shop. The problem is that it is designed for use with stronger chains and standard narrow chains will not fit on it. To make this possible, the freewheel teeth need to be sharpened a little on the sides. I used a hand-held burr with a grindstone attachment for this. 10 minutes and everything is ready - with a file it would take a long time.
Since the freewheel is designed to be screwed onto the rear thick bushing, it has an internal thread of large diameter and an adapter is needed to attach it to the transfer bushing (with a thread diameter of 10 mm). I was also able to find such an adapter in a bike shop. It was sold complete with a black bushing and I don’t know what it’s for. The photo shows a second adapter of the same type, which had a reverse thread on the other side.
To tension the chain from the freewheel to the rear wheel sprocket, I used a standard, inexpensive derailleur. The configuration of the tensioner was, of course, not the most successful, but on the whole it fulfills its role, and I couldn’t think of anything better.
To gradually transfer torque from the engine to the freewheel, I used two adapter bushings with pulleys installed on them for the VAZ-2108 generator V-belt. The entire structure is attached using aluminum profiles to the bicycle frame.
UPD. The frame should not be made of composite materials like carbon, because... it must be monolithic and without damage to maintain strength. Otherwise the frame may burst. The use of aluminum frames is also not recommended. It is best to use a steel frame like mine.
The adapter bushings are also not ordinary. They have a much larger diameter of the planes where the spokes are attached. This made it possible to attach them to aluminum profiles. To do this, drill out the holes for the spokes a little for M3 screws.
Belt pulleys have a larger internal diameter than the diameter of the adapter bushing thread, so to avoid inaccurate installation of the pulleys, I wound electrical tape onto the bushing threads layer by layer up to the diameter of the pulley hole, and used washers with a diameter of 30 mm for fixation under the nuts.
In principle, one V-belt transmission link can be used. The engine power reserve is enough for driving on straight roads and small slopes. But for confident driving on sand and uphill, it is better to use two links. Each link has a multiplicity of about 2x. Thereby doubling the torque transmitted to the wheel.
I attached the motor controller with zip ties to one of the aluminum profiles attached to the frame, using thermal paste for better contact. This makes it possible to better remove heat from the controller and during the ride you can feel how the profile and frame in the vicinity of the controller heat up. On the other side of the controller, where its heatsink is installed, I carefully cut off the heat shrink with a knife and attached a small fan from an old Intel 586 processor. Although, based on operating experience, it turned out to be unnecessary.
To control the engine power, I used a servo tester set to manual control mode. The L7805 (KREN5A) chip is used to power the servo tester and cooling fan.
First, I unsoldered the variable resistor from the servo tester and placed it next to the right handle on the steering wheel. It turned out that this method of smoothly adjusting power has its drawbacks. It is especially inconvenient to use it in extreme situations, when you have to brake sharply, when your hand moves to the brake lever, and the engine continues to produce torque to the braking or even blocked wheel.
Therefore, I simplified the circuit and made a miniature reed button “gas to the floor” (without locking) under the thumb of the right hand, when pressed, the engine begins to produce maximum power. To eliminate sudden jerks, I installed a voltage divider with two resistors and a 100 µF capacitor at the input of the servo tester. Thus, it ensured a smooth increase and decrease in engine speed when pressing and releasing the “gas to the floor” button in approximately 0.5 - 0.7 seconds.
I placed a wattmeter on the steering wheel to monitor the battery voltage and measure the “consumption” of the capacity stored in the battery. The battery is housed in a zippered seat bag. Thus, he killed two birds with one stone - the battery can be easily removed for recharging and during operation is kept in a closed safety casing, in case of emergency failure.
I installed a reed button (without locking) on the left handle on the steering wheel for an audible signal to scare away pedestrians. As a signal I used a piezo-crystal car siren - a whistle. It feels quite normal when operating for a short time on a voltage of 22 V (6s battery). Only louder than 12 V.
Results
I will describe several advantages and disadvantages of the solutions used. In order.
The chain drive to the rear wheel has a rather long travel, which leads to the chain flying off the free wheel when driving on a bumpy road. To avoid this, it was necessary to fence some kind of chain guide in front of the freewheel from a piece of aluminum strip and a plastic roller. Since the chain hits it when moving, it creates an unpleasant loud knocking sound. Ideally, you should install a chain tensioner or chain stabilizer in front of the freewheel, but I haven’t figured out how yet.
The fastening of the rear driven sprocket to the wheel is not the most reliable. There is a possibility of damage to the spokes or the sprocket mounting coming off the spokes. This happened once before when I used regular nuts. After that I installed “ear nuts” and auto-locking nuts. It is better to replace the current bushing with a bushing with a disc brake mount and put a large star in its place. But because The diameter of the star is much larger than the disc brake, I'm not sure that the distance to the frame is enough for free rotation.
The wedge transmission of force from the engine to the freewheel worked quite acceptable at first. However, the efficiency of such a solution leaves much to be desired. As the belt tension increases, the load on the bearings of the adapter bushings and the engine increases, which leads to increased wear and friction forces, and hence a decrease in transmission efficiency. When the tension decreases, the belts begin to slip under high loads (starting from a standstill, moving uphill), and this also leads to a decrease in efficiency. Finding balance is extremely difficult. The use of poly-V-ribbed pulleys is problematic due to their bulkiness. The best solution seems to be the use of a toothed belt drive.
Controlling engine power as in the first option using a variable resistor, as I already wrote, is often inconvenient. Using the “gas to the floor” button is often unjustified, because There are times when you need to drive slowly and smoothly. The driving pattern “full throttle - acceleration - coasting in neutral”, although in terms of battery capacity consumption is almost comparable in efficiency to driving with constant engine operation, has an important drawback - slipping of the V-belt during acceleration. But in the “gas to the floor” mode, you feel all the power installed under your seat.
Well, not fundamentally, but still, the sound of a running engine and a moving chain with an open structure often frightens passers-by. If any modeler knows how brushless engines whistle, he will understand.
Some interesting facts
Based on the diameters of the wedge drive pulleys (150 mm and 80 mm) and the number of freewheel and sprocket teeth on the rear wheel (16 and 52), we find that the total gear ratio is 11.4. This is not very much and is not enough for a quick ride up the mountain, you have to help with your feet. Therefore, I installed a ceramic pulley from a washing machine (purchased at a flea market) with a diameter of 64 mm on the engine. This made it possible to increase the gear ratio to 14.3. With a battery voltage of 22.2 V, the maximum theoretical speed will be 45 km/h. Taking into account air resistance and power losses in the transmission links, this seems to be true, because in a straight line I accelerated to 40 km/h.
A 5000 mAh battery (22 V) is enough for a 30-minute drive and 8-10 km at an average speed of 18 km/h and accelerations of up to 40 km/h. Even earlier, when I had a 2200 mAh battery (11 V), it was also enough for me for 8 km, but at a maximum speed of 18 km/h, an average of 14 km/h and assisting the engine by pedaling when driving uphill.
The maximum current consumed by the engine during acceleration in the “gas to the floor” mode is about 60 A. Thus, the output power is about 1250 W, which is several times higher than that of most wheel motors sold. Acceleration to 40 km/h in a straight line in no more than 10 seconds.
In the current configuration, I traveled last season from July to October almost every day to work with a daily mileage of about 20 km.
An electric motor for a bicycle - this is precisely the product that small workshops and online stores have begun to promote in recent years as an alternative to electric bicycles, which are already quite widely represented on the market. A separate motor can significantly reduce the cost and lighten the design of the resulting mechanism, because most electric bicycles are clumsy and heavy. They are not aimed at keen cyclists, but at a light walking style, so they are equipped with dubious frame configurations and very heavy batteries.
Why are engines needed?
While skiing, especially on long climbs, everyone thought about what they could connect to the chain in the hope of making their work easier and finally overcoming a difficult section. This is why electric motors are installed for bicycles. They allow you to supplement the athlete’s efforts to gain and maintain high speed, as well as maintain strength in problem areas.
The engines come in different designs and powers, but follow the same principle - they are installed on ordinary bicycles, after which they transmit force to the wheels in one way or another (depending on the type).
Types of electric motors
Electric motors for bicycles do not come in a variety of designs. In fact, due to the fairly simple design of the bike itself, there are three types.
Motor-wheel
The most popular and easiest to install engine.
Wired motor-wheel
In fact, the engine is installed on the wheel, or, in more expensive versions, it itself is supplied in the form of a wheel, with spokes attached directly to the engine. This arrangement has several advantages:
- simplicity of the device - minimum wiring and problems;
- good appearance - sometimes you cannot notice that the bike has an engine;
- high efficiency - minimal losses for energy transmission;
- low location that does not increase the center of gravity.
The list of disadvantages includes high weight and some difficulties in operation (replacing and connecting batteries).
Chain motor
This is the lightest engine. It is connected to the chain as an additional element, installed in the center of the frame and is very convenient to use, but installation will require precise calculations and the purchase of an additional chain.
Pros of this engine:
- low relative cost;
- light weight;
- ease of battery connection and maintenance;
- use of a common gear shift unit.
Disadvantages: labor-intensive installation and increased noise when the engine is running.
Friction drive
A legacy of “old” mechanics, when electricity on a bicycle was generated by a dynamo on the edge of the tire or rim. Likewise, an outboard friction drive transfers power to the wheel using a pressure roller. Such engines are aimed at recreational and children's models, as well as non-professional buyers.
Friction motor from a famous brand
While the only advantages that can be highlighted are the absolute ease of installation and use, as well as (for some models) low cost, friction drives have many disadvantages:
- very low efficiency;
- noise during use;
- bulky and inappropriate appearance - usually instead of a trunk;
- tire wear during use.
Self-installation
Of course, it is easy to purchase a ready-made electric bike. It is more difficult to trust a workshop to install an electric motor on your classic bike. But the most inexpensive and, most importantly, interesting way would be to install the drive yourself.
Installation kits
The popularity of homemade electric bicycles is growing, and many manufacturers offer ready-made kits for installing an electric motor on a bicycle. Kits with a motor-wheel are especially popular. This type of drive does not require special knowledge for installation, it is easy to manufacture and sells well.
Bicycle conversion kit
There are also more serious kits intended for workshops, which include chains, additional rollers and other elements. Often motors come with extra batteries. In addition, a homemade chain motor can be made literally from available materials.
There are expensive kits with friction devices that are positioned as a ready-made “install and use” product for those who do not want to seriously understand mechanics. True, due to the price, such sets are not particularly popular.
Installation process
The most difficult part is the design and installation of a chain bicycle electric motor. If only the electrical part is supplied in the kit, then very serious preparation will be required before installation. So, the installation sequence:
- install the engine bracket;
- install the engine;
- install an additional star and pulley (or two, depending on the configuration);
- measure the required chain length;
- adjust the size of the chain and assemble the structure;
- check engine operation;
- check operation while pedaling.
If everything is successful, the chain motor is installed!
Layout example for installing a chain motor
For a set of motor wheels everything is simpler:
- remove the original wheel;
- install the wheel motor;
- secure the battery bracket;
- make wiring for the battery and for the control panel, if there is one.
As a matter of fact, after this you can go. If for a chain type installation (with preparation of materials) may take several days, then an hour will be enough to install a motor-wheel. In the case of friction mechanisms, some of them are removable in design, and even an elegant girl can install them with her own hands.
Manufacturers
Since the devices are not so complex, there are a huge number of manufacturers, and due to the limited popularity of their devices, many have not received the fame they deserve. Most companies producing electric bicycle motors are located in China:
- Bafang is a fairly well-known company that produces a wide range of electric motors, not only bicycle ones;
- Cyclone is a Taiwanese company that stands out for the quality and power of its kits;
- Bosch – German quality, German prices. Manufactures chain drives. It has not been on the market for long, but has already gained recognition;
- Golden motor is a classic Chinese manufacturer (low prices, low quality, many nice additions and decorations);
- MXUS is a Chinese company that has been exclusively dedicated to electric bicycle drives for 20 years.
Conclusion
An electric bicycle motor is a great device for upgrading your bike. An inexpensive set will ensure fast driving and overcoming obstacles, and powerful devices will make riding unforgettable. The ability to install the motor yourself may appeal to anyone who is interested in technology and doesn't want to spend huge amounts of money on electric bikes.
Many people like bicycles for their comfort and the ability to exercise. They are used as a means of transportation in urban areas with difficult traffic. But not everyone wants to spend energy to reach the desired location.
Often the speed of a conventional device is not enough. Then ideas are born on how to create an electric bicycle from available materials so that it meets the requirements of environmental friendliness and is more functional. The fact is that purchasing a factory version is not affordable for everyone.
What are its advantages?
First of all, it is considered a mobile device for movement, since it can pass through the narrowest places of the road. And he is not afraid of traffic jams of varying complexity.
Let's consider all the advantages:
- Will be an excellent alternative to using public transport;
- An electric bicycle can be operated without the need to obtain a license;
- It does not need gasoline, however, the electrical voltage controller will have to be charged frequently;
- Helps you maintain physical fitness.
To decide that you need this type of transport, pay attention to the photos of homemade electric bicycles of various configurations.
They may differ in design features and functional characteristics: weight, available speed, driving range on a single charge.
How to create one yourself?
First of all, let’s figure out what you need to assemble an electric bicycle yourself. It is very important to find a functional bike that can withstand heavy loads. A lightweight model will not work - it must be a strong specimen.
But the most important thing is to purchase an engine with sufficient power. In addition, you will need the following list of additional elements:
- Controller based programmability;
- Two mechanical disc brakes;
- Acid type batteries;
- Set of fuses and switches;
- “Star” based on 66 and 123 teeth;
- Stainless steel fasteners for secure engine installation.
But this is not enough, because without the necessary tools it is difficult to secure all the parts.
How to collect?
Step-by-step assembly of an electric bicycle with your own hands is carried out. It is necessary to modify the brakes and the front fork, then move on to the rear. After this, the following are connected to the bicycle: the engine, the battery and the resistor - this happens in turn.
The diagram of the simplest finished model should include:
- Reliable body from the regular version of the bike;
- Efficient engine;
- Power supply;
- Battery;
- Correct version of variable resistor;
- A chain similar to a moped version.
You can create many different circuits based on the same battery. But speed and functionality may vary. To correctly create a reliable option, you need to have knowledge from the field of physics. We are talking about Ohm's law, the possibilities of electrical conductivity of materials and strength of materials.
But the regular version is simple and easy to create yourself. During the assembly process, you can notice some shortcomings and eliminate them or identify a way to modify the electric bicycle.
Engine
When thinking about how to make an electric bicycle yourself, everyone comes to one thing - you need a reliable engine. In order for it to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure that the voltage and current match.
If the model has a power of 400 W, then, taking into account a reliable gearbox, you can reach a speed of about 30 km/h. And, if you install a capacious battery, then the range can reach 30 kilometers.
Important: Do not forget about the balance between the battery capacity and its voltage, the capacity and voltage of the unit. For an engine with a power of 500 W, you will have to install a 12 V battery with 40 amperes/hour. In other words, rely on Ohm’s law and then the electric bicycle circuit will last longer.
Note! 
What controller is needed and how to set the resistor?
The controller changes the traction level of the electric bike. And this is what primarily distinguishes it from the regular version. This device helps to optimally distribute traction to all wheels and ensure smooth operation of the unit.
For this version, throttle grips are required. Using a variable resistor, it is easy to regulate the speed and speed of the engine.
After calculating the required energy level, the opening contacts are mounted on the brake handle (in closed form). By pressing the contacts, the circuit will open or close, and the motor will slow down or speed up accordingly.
Conclusion
Now you have simple instructions on how to assemble an electric bicycle yourself. It remains to advise not to overstress the battery by increasing the maximum speed of the unit.
Keep your bike away from direct sunlight as the battery capacity will noticeably decrease due to overheating. We recommend accelerating with your muscles to save precious energy.
Photos of electric bicycles with your own hands
Note! 
Note! 
