Although it seems that this is a scary task that is unlikely to be possible for an ordinary car enthusiast, in practice everything is different. All work on setting up and adjusting the drive can be done quite quickly yourself. And now let’s try to understand the nuances of this procedure.
How to replace a dampener
The system on the VAZ-2107 car has a device called a chain damper. It serves to dampen vibrations of the chain during its rotation. If there is a metallic knock coming from the drive side, then most likely this indicates that the tension is too weak or the damper is very worn. In the second case, a complete replacement of the damper will be required. It is located in the front of the car engine. When replacing a VAZ-2107 chain, it is advisable to install a new damper.
To replace it, you need to remove the cover from the cylinder head, and then fix the damper using a convenient tool, such as a screwdriver or wrench. Next, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure the damper to the block body. The housing must be carefully removed. Installing the new one is done in reverse order. Please note that the mounting bolt at the top is slightly larger. It is longer than the bottom one. The VAZ-2107 chain guide has no other features.
Chain tensioner
It is installed on the right side of the internal combustion engine, next to the cooling system pump. The performance of the engine directly depends on how well it functions to control the slack of the drive mechanism. The more mileage a metal chain has, the more it stretches. For this reason, you need to know how to tension the chain on a VAZ-2107 in order to get rid of problems with it. Sagging increases, and even slippage on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys is possible. Replacement is quite simple; you can install a new tensioner in a few minutes.
To do this, you need to open the hood, use a 10mm socket wrench to unscrew both bolts that secure the tensioner to the engine, and then carefully remove it. Please note that there is a gasket for sealing. If it becomes unusable, then you need to install a new one. After removing the timing chain tensioner housing, you need to clamp it in a vice, and then use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the nut in the center. With this action you can check whether the collet lock is working properly. If there is a breakage of the cracker, then you need to replace the cap or tensioner assembly. And later, for work, you need to know how to tension the chain on a VAZ-2107.
Installing a new tensioner
When the timing drive has been checked, in particular if it needs to be replaced, you need to start installing a new one. But do not forget that before starting installation it is necessary to charge this mechanism. To do this, you will need to push the plunger mechanism all the way, and then, holding it in this position, tighten the nut on the cap.
After this, you need to install the tensioner housing and tighten the bolts. Do not forget that you need to install a new gasket if the old one fails. Using a special wrench size 38 for the ratchet, turn the engine crankshaft at rpm. In this case, the timing chain is tightened. You need to make one turn, then loosen the cap nut to release the tensioner. After this you need to tighten it again.
How to tension the chain
This procedure is not complicated; it is performed quite quickly on classic cars. It must be carried out if the VAZ-2107 chain has been replaced or removed. To tension the timing chain, you need to use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the nut located on the tensioner. But you don’t need to unscrew it all the way, just loosen it. Rotate slowly using a ratchet wrench.
Watch how much force you apply to the lever. When you feel that you need to exert a lot of force, stop and hold the key so that it does not turn. It is in this position that the chain is in tension, so it needs to be fixed. When the tensioner rod presses the chain firmly, you need to tighten the nut. That's it, the job is finished. Here's how to tension the chain on a VAZ-2107, the procedure is simple.
Conclusion
Now you have an idea of how to work on the timing chain. It is worth noting that everyone should know how to tighten the VAZ-2107 chain, because when the car is used, it gradually stretches out and the metal wears out. You need to constantly monitor the condition of the gas distribution mechanism. It also doesn’t hurt to tighten the tension immediately before you start adjusting the valve clearances.
Tensioning the VAZ 2107 chain takes about half an hour, however, if this is not done, the consequences can be very disastrous. The article contains detailed instructions with photos.
The content of the article:
Before you start work, you need to find out what the reason is. After all, incorrect diagnosis will not only force you to do unnecessary work, but will also not allow you to identify the true malfunction.
Symptoms of loose chain tension
In principle, the symptoms are quite specific, and it is very, very difficult to confuse them with something else.
- Increased engine noise, even at idle speed;
- Instant increase in noise during a sharp increase in speed;
- The roar increases proportionally with a smooth increase in speed, and decreases gradually with a sharp release of the gas pedal;
- Most often, a loose VAZ 2107 chain rattles because the damper has broken and needs to be replaced.
However, let’s say that this is not the case, and we just need some tension. To work, we will need a special key to turn the crankshaft; on carburetor cars, you can turn it using a ratchet.
Before starting work, let the engine cool down. Many people believe that it is necessary to tension the chain when it is hot in order to compensate for its thermal expansion. In fact, an automatic tensioner is installed on the car, which copes with this. In principle, there is no difference at all; you need to let the engine sit so that the oil flows from the head into the crankcase or down the line.
Now let’s look directly at how to tighten the chain on a VAZ 2107:
- Remove the valve cover. Do not forget about specific washers, which, if lost, will have to go to the store;
- Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts that hold the tensioner;
- Next, we clamp it in a yew or in a gas wrench, after which we unscrew the cap nut three or four turns with a 13 wrench;
- Remove the tensioner from the vice. We press the plunger (the thin finger on the back side of the cap) against the table or other surface until it is completely sunk into the body;
- Now tighten the nut and insert the tensioner into place. Of course, you need to check the gasket and replace it if necessary. Tighten the fastening bolts;
- Make a couple of revolutions of the crankshaft. It is advisable to do this with your hand and not with a starter. To make work easier, you can unscrew the spark plugs. As soon as you feel uniform resistance, hold the crankshaft from reverse and unscrew the cap a couple of turns. Thus, we “discharge” the plunger and tension the chain.
Consequences of a loose chain on a VAZ 2107
This applies to 2106 and all classics in general. First of all, the chain is manufactured with high precision and durability. This means that at the slightest jump of teeth, the engine will work at random. This is especially true for injection engines, since the crankshaft position sensor will give one reading, but in fact, the shaft will be in a completely different position. Moreover, jumping two or more teeth is fraught with the risk that the valve will punch a hole in the piston, and such a disaster will occur in all cylinders, and if, when the belt breaks, for example, the timing parts move simply by inertia, then in this situation they are still driven into movement from the crankshaft.
The next problem is wear of the head housing. It has a special part near the camshaft gear. So, aluminum wears off very easily at high speeds, and then restoring the head can be very problematic. The same goes for the tin valve covers. In general, timely tensioning of the chain on a VAZ 2107 is a mandatory procedure.
The VAZ 2107 engine can be considered perfect in its simplicity and reliability. This omnivorous unit can run on gasoline of any quality. He's practically unkillable. But there is one mechanism that still requires attention from the motorist. After all, fuel consumption, stable operation of the engine and how long the entire unit as a whole will last depend on it. It is called a gas distribution mechanism (GDM) and is responsible for the intake of combustible mixture into the cylinders and the release of exhaust gases from the engine. It consists of a camshaft, intake and exhaust valves, and a chain.
Relationship between the injector and the timing belt
Responsible for the quality of engine operation is a chain that synchronizes the piston cycles with the opening and closing of the corresponding valves. As is known, the process of combustion of the combustible mixture in each cylinder occurs in a certain sequence, ensuring reciprocating movement of the pistons, which is converted into rotational movement of the crankshaft. The injector injects fuel in accordance with a strict order, thanks to which optimal performance of the internal combustion engine (ICE) in terms of power and fuel consumption is achieved. Through a chain transmission from the crankshaft to the camshafts, high-quality and coordinated operation of all internal combustion engine elements with factory injector settings is achieved.
The chain is not friendly over time
The VAZ 2107 was produced from 1982 to 2011, while the technical characteristics and parameters of the units were not subject to fundamental changes. Therefore, the timing chain is not equipped with an automatic tensioner and has a design that is subject to much faster wear than similar drives on modern cars. It requires regular tension checks every 30,000 km.
Problems associated with the chain have specific signs that affect the behavior of the car:
- The car starts “every time”;
- A characteristic metallic sound when the engine is running;
- Unstable speed in all operating modes;
- Exit from the construction of fuel injection control sensors;
- Increased fuel consumption.
When such features appear in the operation of the VAZ 2107, it is necessary to check the chain tension, and if the deflection is quite 10 mm, then no operations to optimize the element will help. It needs to be changed, because further use may lead to a break. The consequences of a broken chain are very unpleasant - from simple bending of the valves to a spectacular piercing of the piston combustion chamber by a collapsed valve. The cost of replacing a chain is much lower than the cost of possible work to restore the internal combustion engine from the consequences of its breakage.
Circumstances for replacing the timing chain of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands
If a person has independent time and a stable nervous system, then he can independently perform an operation to install a newly created chain. Since the design of the internal combustion engine of this car is quite simple, carrying out repair work does not cause any difficulties. To do this, you will need a flat area, preferably in a closed room with a comfortable operating temperature, a washed car (cleanliness under the hood is especially important), and a set of basic car enthusiast tools. It must certainly include: a screwdriver, pliers, keys for 13, 16, 17, heads for 10 and 8.
Strict order when removing the chain will ensure easy installation
Having placed the car on a flat surface, place chocks under the wheels to immobilize them, set the gear to neutral, tighten the handbrake, the engine should be frosty. Now you can open the hood and remove the terminal from the battery. To get to the chain and comfortably reset it, you will need to perform operations in the following sequence:
Video: Replacing the timing chain
We purchase everything you need and you can begin installing the chain in the reverse order compared to removal. Do not rush to attach the covers, do not forget to carefully check the chain tension and the coincidence of all marks.
Hi all! As you know, the car has already covered 200 thousand km, so I decided to do a mini-overhaul, almost completely replacing the timing mechanism myself. I decided not to touch the rocker with the camshaft for now and work on the chain with sprockets that have been there since the factory. Various sources write that the life of the chain is somewhere around 100-150 thousand, although even at 220 thousand it was tensioned well by the tensioner, and I didn’t notice much noise, perhaps due to timely maintenance and good oil. However, during diagnostics at the service center, the technician said that the valve timing angles had already dropped a little, so it was better to replace it. I decided to play it safe and replace it along with the stars, as is done wisely.
I purchased new stabilizer and shoe, front cover gasket, front crankshaft oil seal, nuts, sealant, etc. from a trusted store.
First, let's provide access to the front cover - remove the cooling fan, radiator, drain the antifreeze from it, and decorative grille.
Then the engine protection and mudguard to provide access to the three cover mounting bolts from below. We will be replacing the mudguard, as it was rotten through and through and the generator was flooding in the puddles.
Now we unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut (ratchet), we need a 36 wrench, or better yet a head, but we couldn’t find one, and the standard stamped wrench was bent and did not want to unscrew the nut.
I also had to weld pipes from it for a 40 key, long enough to rest against the right side member.
It was not possible to unscrew it manually; I had to tear it off with the starter, resting it on the spar.
Then we remove the crankshaft pulley and the front cover, dismantle the shoe, damper, limiter and gears with the chain. We make sure that the marks do not go astray.
When comparing the old and new parts on the stars, I didn’t see any special workmanship, except for polishing on the sides.
The chain is also intact on the outside. The shoe and damper have minimal wear, as they have already been replaced relatively recently.
However, the old chain turned out to be 4-5 mm longer than the new one, which, according to the same data from the Internet, is already above the tolerance of 4 mm and requires its replacement.
Before installing new parts on the new camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley, I used a center punch to make additional marks at 90 and 180 degrees for convenience during subsequent valve adjustments.
We put them in reverse order according to the marks and keys: first the shoe with the damper, then the upper sprocket with the chain, then the small sprocket and the middle one, check the marks again and tighten the chain.
We carefully double-check everything and lock the retaining rings.
During assembly, due to inattention, I placed the small crankshaft gear with the “skirt” outward instead of inward, which is why the crankshaft was blocked when tightening the ratchet nut - I had to remove the cover again and rearrange it.
The marks coincided exactly again, as if nothing had changed, hmm..
Seal the front cover seal and gasket with sealant.
Also, instead of the usual nuts with engravers, I tightened the front cover with nuts with a nylon ring, which means they have the ability to unscrew and leak oil).
Well, at the end I installed a new engine splash guard.
Let's do the math:
- Set of stars - 680r
- Chain - 630r
- Calmizer - 70 rub.
- Shoe - 90 rub.
- Oil seal - 110 rub.
- Nuts, washers, gasket - 200 RUR
- Engine splash guard - 400 RUR
- Ratchet key - 150 RUR
It took a couple of days to do everything, although it could have been done in one. After replacing, I did not notice any major changes in the operation of the motor. After a couple of thousand, after grinding in the parts, you will need to tighten the chain again. But then you can sleep peacefully with another couple of hundred thousand mileage).
Process video:
Subscribe! Good luck on the roads!
Welcome!
From time to time, the chain of the “Gas Distribution Mechanism” wears out and as a result it requires replacement. Another very pleasing fact is that the timing chain can last a very long life, unlike the gas timing belt. To be honest, there were even cases when a car drove about “180-200 thousand km” with the timing chain never changed, but it was really already very stretched at that time and the guarantee that the chain would soon break was very high. How many kilometers have you driven the most on just one timing chain?
Summary:
How much will it cost to replace a timing chain?
1) Replacing the timing chain will cost you around 250-500 rubles.
When should the timing chain be replaced?
The timing chain must be replaced if:
- Its stretching, namely when the standard chain tensioner is no longer able to tension the chain.
- It also needs to be changed when the car has covered about 80-100 thousand km. (It may take longer to go here; the most important thing is to look at its stretching; if the stretching of the chain is very large, then in this case it is better to replace it, otherwise it will simply break)
What is needed to replace the timing chain?
1) Bricks.
2) Hammer.
3) Screwdrivers.
4) Wrenches.
5) You may need a mounting blade.
6) A hook, or anything else that can be used to hook the chain.
7) A key for unscrewing the crankshaft. (If not, then a 36 head will do!)
How to replace the timing chain on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?
Removal:
1) First, remove the cylinder head cover. (On how to remove the cylinder head cover, paragraph “1-10”)
2) Now turn the crank until the mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the mark on the housing.
Note!
The mark on the crankshaft will also have to match the mark on the camshaft cover!
4) Then engage fourth gear and put the car on the handbrake.
5) Next, loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt.
6) Then remove the chain guide from the engine. (For information on how to remove the chain damper, read “in this article”)
7) Then remove the chain tensioner shoe from the engine. (For information on how to remove the chain tensioner shoe, read “in this article”)
8) Next, bend back the lock washer, which is located on the bolt securing the sprocket of the auxiliary units.
9) Now unscrew the bolt itself that secures the accessory sprocket.
10) Then remove the accessory sprocket.
Note!
After removing the sprocket, do not turn the drive shaft, because this may disrupt the initial ignition setting! (see photo at the very bottom of the article, in the “”)
12) Next, completely unscrew the bolt that secures the camshaft sprocket.
13) Then lift the chain and remove the camshaft sprocket.
14) Then lower the chain deeply down, carefully removing it from all the sprockets.
Note!
To remove the timing chain, you do not need to remove the crankshaft sprocket!
15) After all the operations performed, check whether the mark on the crankshaft sprocket matches the mark on the cylinder block.
Note!
If the marks do not match, turn the crankshaft until they align!
Installation:
1) First put a new chain on the crankshaft sprocket.
2) Then put the chain on the sprocket of the auxiliary units.
4) Next, hook the chain.
5) And then lift the chain up to the installation location of the camshaft sprocket.
6) Then put the chain on the camshaft sprocket, and only then install the sprocket in place.
7) Next, check that all marks match and tighten the timing chain. (How to check the coincidence of the marks, see the article: “Installing the piston of the fourth cylinder at TDC - Top Dead Center”) (And about how to tension the chain, read “in this article”)
Note!
If you don’t understand how to tension the chain, then at the very bottom, watch the video on how to properly install the chain and how to tension it!
8) Then tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt.
9) Then install the chain guide in place in the reverse order of removing it.
10) Then reinstall the chain tensioner shoe in reverse order.
11) Next, install the stop pin in place.
12) Now put the gear in neutral and turn the crankshaft three turns in the direction of its rotation.
13) Check that all marks on the sprockets match.
Note!
If the marks do not match, install the chain again and correct the situation!
14) If all the marks match then:
1. Tighten the chain tensioner cap nut.
2. Shift into gear.
3. Tighten all sprocket bolts.
4. Install all remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
Important!
1) When working in a ditch, place bricks under the wheels of the car to prevent the car from rolling away!
2) If you are unable to remove the auxiliary units sprocket, then try moving it using a mounting blade and then remove the sprocket!
For newbies!
Question: Where is the accessory drive shaft located?
Answer:
Additional video:
If you don’t understand how to install a chain on a car, then watch a short video that explains everything in detail with the engine removed from the car.
