If the fan itself on your car does not work, then carefully check all of the above components of the cooling system. However, there are times when one situation will not be related to the breakdown in question.
Fuse
Problems with the electrical circuit
If checking the reservoir cap does not reveal any faults, then the problem may lie in the circuit.
The search should begin by checking the serviceability of fuse F7. To do this, you need to gain access to the mounting block and check the contacts for the presence of oxidative traces. If nothing of the sort was noted, then proceed to the next step. Otherwise, clean the contact connections or simply replace the fuse with a new element. The part is inexpensive.
The next step is to check the fan switch sensor:
- Initially, warm up the car to 100 degrees.
- Turn off the engine and immediately start the engine.
- Open the hood and disconnect the terminal from the fan sensor.
- If, after disconnecting the contact, the fan starts working, then the unit is operational, but the sensor needs to be replaced.
- When the fan does not turn on after disconnecting the terminal, then the situation is the opposite - the sensor is working, but the fan is not.
Electric motor breakdowns are often the reason why the fan does not turn on. If all the previous measures did not help you find the problem, then you will need to dismantle the electric motor. The following problems can be identified in this node:
- The commutator brushes are worn.
- The brushes are stuck.
- There was a short circuit in the armature winding - the problem is identified by a characteristic smell.
Problems with the relay. Sometimes a situation arises when the cooling system fan start button simply fails. In this case, you will need to carry out the following work:
- Remove the trim on the right side of the dashboard inside the passenger compartment. To do this, you need to unscrew two screws.
- Under this panel there are three relays.
- The required relay is usually located on the side in relation to the front of the car.
- To be sure to act correctly, find the car's operating manual and check the wires that go to the relay we need.
- To solve the problem with the relay, you just need to install a new element. You should not skimp on this component. Cheap models break down very quickly.
What to do when the fan runs constantly
There are situations when the cooling radiator works without interruption, both on a hot and cold engine. The reasons can be very different. Now we will look at the main problems and ways to solve them.
- A break in the sensor that monitors the antifreeze temperature readings or its circuits. In this case, the Check engine light comes on. The circuits and sensor are checked with an ohmmeter. The problem is solved by replacing the element with a new one.
- The fan relay contacts open. First, the component is checked with a multimeter and, if necessary, replaced with a new one.
- Malfunctions in the ECU. Check this node on the profile service. If a malfunction is detected, the firmware or the unit is changed completely.
- In VAZ carburetor models, the thermal switch contacts do not open. To check operation, disconnect the terminals from the terminals of this unit - and the fan will stop. In this case, it is necessary to replace the faulty part.
If the tests carried out have not determined why the fan is constantly running, then the only possible way out of the situation is to contact a service center.
Full-fledged service stations, as a rule, conduct a full computer check of the cooling system, which can identify the most difficult to detect faults. The failure can be much more global than a normal fuse failure.
If the usual testing steps do not produce any results, then you should not be afraid to contact the service, and even in cases where you consider yourself an experienced technician. Often, modern equipment and a professional approach significantly reduce the troubleshooting time. Whereas conventional methods would take weeks to determine the problem. Therefore, car services have their own advantages.
This solution allows you to get rid of frequent startups cooling fan, there are no voltage drops (although I didn’t have any due to a good generator and an automatic LV at 14.5V), the idle voltage does not drop when the fan is turned on. And there is no vibration in the body with the original 4-blade fan. The normal operation of the cooling fan remained in place.
The cooling fan now turns on at half power at a temperature of 92 degrees, and the maximum speed will be when it reaches 96 degrees.
This is what happened:
Just like that in the engine compartment. There is a tee in the center, a relay on the left, etc.
For this we needed the following components:
1…
Tee for a cooling sensor from a gazelle, costing 150 rubles. Sawed by a Bulgarian's wife and rolled with a hammer and filed.
2…
DTOZH from the classics 92/87 degrees. 100 rubles.
3…
2 clamps for the pipe. What size - I don't know. Just under this pipe and that’s it...
4…
Relay 4-pin 70 A + connector. Cost 160 rubles with chip.
5…
30 A remote fuse. I installed a 30 pin relay in the power circuit.
6…
There were crimping chips + crimping (you can also use narrow pliers) and heat shrinking.
7…
Various wires 4 meters.
8…
Mother/father chips for the fan, because I didn’t want to cut the insulation. The “original” fan chip is disconnected, our purchased one is connected to each other, the positive contact is isolated, and the negative contact is used to connect the signal from the relay to it.
9…
Resistance from a classic stove is 1.5 ohms. You can put a resistance of 2-2.5 Ohms, but I couldn’t find the resistance from the UAZ stove in my city. So we are content with what we have. The fan is supplied with 6.6 V according to the tester.
The lower radiator pipe is cut if your radiator is a new model without a plug for the DTOZH. Place the tee so that the sensor contacts are at 90 degrees, and not as in my photo (I almost missed this point, the stove body does not sit properly). But this will be corrected when replacing the coolant.
If you have an old-style radiator, or a Luzarovsky universal one, then you do not need to cut the pipe. These radiators have a plug for the DTOZH.
And here is the scheme of work.
87…
we twist the contact or solder it to the black wire of the fan (focus on the wires from the fan itself, and not on the central wiring, because the colors may differ. Another option is to call with a multitester). “Plus” is supplied to the fan permanently, but it is controlled by a mass signal (it may differ depending on the year of manufacture judging by the comments).
86…
the contact can be connected directly to the “positive” terminal of the battery. The relay winding does not draw voltage.
85…
We connect the relay contact into the gap through the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH). The sensor in our case acts as an automatic button.
30…
We connect the contact directly to the negative terminal of the battery through a fuse, then we connect a resistance resistor and then to the relay.
The resistance resistor itself was pulled to the cooling fan housing with a regular clamp. Mount the resistor in the area of the air flow from the fan to cool it. It heats up well during operation.
In general, everything... During the entire evening of active driving and traffic jams, the fan never turned on fully. Everything is automatic, there are no surges or drops in rpm at idle. I like. The fan continues to run briefly even after the ignition is turned off.
You can also add a button to force the fan into this circuit without any problems - be sure to use a relay, the control plus of the relay coil (pin 85 for example) is taken from the main relay from the passenger compartment, the control minus (pin 86) through the fan switch button, on pins 30 and 87 connect the DTOZh contacts. All this is necessary so that the fan turns off when the ignition is turned off and eliminates the possibility of constant operation of the fan if the driver forgets.
Although IMHO this button is superfluous with this solution.
Well, by the way, this scheme can also be used for carb cars. You just need a sensor, one “chisel” for the radiator, and the second “classic” for the tee (although it can be done the other way around). Well, that is if you can’t find a 2-mode fan switch sensor from a foreign company.
P/S.. We installed the same for a friend on a VAZ 2115, 2006. - according to the diagram, it was necessary to change the polarity of the voltage supply to the fan. It is controlled not by “minus”, but by “plus”.
The delay in turning on fan 2111 can be considered one of the many shortcomings in the design of this car. But, despite this, solving this problem, however, like all others, is not difficult, it is important to have “straight hands” and a good understanding of the device.
Now about the problem of the late radiator itself. The optimal operating temperature should not exceed 90°C. But on the VAZ 2111, additional cooling is turned on at a temperature of 100-105°C. Thus, we can say with confidence that the fan starts at the moment when it has already overheated. As is known, engine operation at critical temperatures negatively affects its service life.
A solution to the existing problem may be to force the engine cooling radiator fan to turn on by installing a button in the mobile.
Before you start modifying the VAZ, prepare the following components:
Power button
Instructions for modifying the inclusion of the radiator fan of the VAZ 2111
After forced turn on the cooling fan VAZ 2111 It is possible not only with the engine running, but also with the engine turned off and .
We all know that when almost any mechanism operates, a certain amount of heat is generated. In everyday life, a similar phenomenon can most often be observed when the computer is running, and if it is not cooled in any way, the internal boards along with the contacts will simply melt. To prevent this from happening, the computer design includes a special fan designed to cool heated parts. In the automotive world, the main source of heat for a vehicle is its engine, so the need for its cooling arose almost simultaneously with the creation of this power unit.
Initially, the process of evolution of vehicle cooling systems followed two paths, which is why two types of cooling systems are installed on manufactured vehicles: air and liquid (hybrid). Since in both systems the final carrier, designed to dissipate the heat removed from the engine, is air, their design uses one common element - a fan. This device ensures constant and uniform heat removal into the atmosphere, thereby cooling the internal structural elements of a car engine.
1. Design and purpose of the engine cooling fan
The fan is located in the center of a certain casing, together with which it is installed on. The fan casing forms the air flow and does not allow it to dissipate, which is why this element can be considered one of the main components of the cooling system design. During its operation, the radiator exhibits some resistance to air flow, and if a fan is simply directed at it, then a certain part of the air will be reflected and bypass the device, as a result of which there will be no effective cooling.
As we have already said, a running engine is a powerful heat emitter, and To avoid overheating of the unit itself, this heat must be removed. The solution to this problem relies on various cooling systems.
For example, in a liquid engine cooling system, water or antifreeze is used as the main working element. The fluid circulates in the cylinder block and in the cylinder head, where it takes heat from the engine, thereby heating itself. Naturally, in order to successfully perform its duties, the coolant must release the heat it receives in order to perform the same function again. This is where the radiator comes into play.
The location of the radiator of the cooling system of a car engine allows it to “catch” flows of incoming air when the car is moving, which significantly accelerates heat transfer, which means the liquid cools faster. However, a car cannot be in motion all the time, therefore, in traffic jams or during long periods of parking, when the vehicle does not move, but its engine continues to work, the heat from the radiator is removed much worse, which often causes overheating of the engine with all the ensuing consequences. This result can also be obtained due to the vehicle moving at low speeds, especially on a hot summer day.
The fan located in front of the radiator prevents such situations and provides the engine with the necessary cooling. It turns on when the car is idle for a long time with the engine running, when the temperature in the cooling system becomes critical. The fan disperses the heat by passing the necessary air flow through the radiator, thereby dissipating the heat into the atmosphere.
Despite the importance of such a device, it has a fairly simple design and usually consists of three main elements: impellers(usually has four blades, but there may be more), casing And fan drive.
The fan drive, which ensures its rotation, can be of three types (on one machine, of course, only one of them is installed): mechanical, hydromechanical or electric.
The simplest option is a mechanical fan drive, in which rotation is transmitted via a belt drive. But in this case, the fan always rotates when the engine is running, which in some situations (for example, when starting a cold engine) causes extremely negative consequences. Therefore, this cooling method is no longer used on cars produced today.
A hydromechanical drive is considered more advanced, which uses a hydraulic or viscous coupling for operation. In the hydraulic version of this element, torque is transmitted or disconnected from the crankshaft by changing the amount of lubricating fluid. In a viscous coupling, silicone liquid is used for this purpose, and its viscosity depends on temperature indicators, the change of which gives the command to turn the fan drive on or off. To date, both species have not found widespread distribution, which is why they can be seen infrequently.
The most advanced, and at the same time, relatively simple type of fan drive is an electric drive, which sets the fan in motion using a simple electric motor connected to the vehicle's electrical system. Thanks to an electromechanical (used on older car models) and electronic (used on new) control system, a fan equipped with an electric drive can turn on and off when the temperature of the coolant changes. It can also rotate at different speeds under different operating modes of the vehicle’s power unit.
Nowadays, fans equipped with an electric drive type are most widely used, and this state of affairs is unlikely to change in the near future.
2. Installation and connection of the fan
Considering that cars are equipped with fans in normal mode, re-installation may only be necessary during repair work, that is, after replacing broken parts of an old part or when installing a new device. In addition, some car enthusiasts install an additional fan, which, in their opinion, can help better solve the problem of engine cooling.
Let's consider the option of installing an electrically driven fan in a situation where a part is completely replaced. So, in order to install a new device, you will first have to dismantle the old one. To do this, take a suitable socket wrench and slightly loosen the electric fan mounting bolts from below. Then, using the same key, unscrew the bolts securing the radiator tube that connects it to the air conditioning system (if, of course, such is provided for by the design of the car) and move it to the side.
Next, unscrew the upper and lower (already loosened) bolts securing the old fan, tilt it back a little and remove the part from the engine compartment. Now you need to disconnect the wiring harness from the fan casing. To do this, simply remove the wire harness from the clips located on the casing. While holding the impeller from rotating (you can use any convenient method), unscrew the nut securing it to the electric motor with a socket wrench, then, freeing it from the connection with the casing, simply remove it.
Installation of the new part is carried out in the reverse order, and most often the electric fan is replaced assembled with a new casing. Note! When installing the impeller on the axis of the electric motor, you need to align the groove located on the axis of the electric motor with the protrusion located on the hub of the impeller.
The fan can be connected in several ways: for example, through the ignition switch or through the coolant temperature sensor. In these cases, it should turn on when the ignition is turned on and when the antifreeze temperature is above 90 ° C, and the shutdown occurs either due to a decrease in the temperature of the specified fluid or when the ignition is turned off. Also, in parallel with the temperature sensor, some car owners recommend installing an additional switch (toggle switch), with which you can activate the fan at the driver’s request. If the temperature sensor breaks down, such an addition will help you get to the repair site without any problems, and in hot weather it will provide the opportunity to cool the engine in conditions of forced downtime with the engine running.
3. Refinement of the fan motor switching circuit
Many responsible car enthusiasts can spend hours in the garage, trying not only to fix existing problems, but also to prevent the occurrence of new problems through various improvements and modifications. The main goal of refining the electric fan switching circuit is to be able to force the fan to turn on and then operate stable, regardless of the position of the key or the temperature of the cooling liquid.
There are several ways to complete this task. Let's give an example of some of them. The first method is the most ideologically correct and least expensive. In this case, to force the engine cooling fan to turn on, it is enough to short-circuit one of the contacts of the black box to the housing, and when the radiator fan is activated, a “plus” should appear on the other contact of the black box.
The switch can be placed in any convenient place, for example, instead of the headlight washers or heated front seat switches.
The second method is more labor-intensive and expensive, but at the same time much more beautiful and elegant than the first. To implement it, at the initial stage it will be necessary to remove the instrument cluster cover, and a new fan switch relay, which has a special bracket for mounting the device, can be placed in the passenger compartment or in the engine compartment, but in the cabin it will probably be a little more convenient. Running wires into the interior is not a problem, and you can use the rubber plug for the headlight range control to complete the task. The "CHECK ENGINE" control lamp of the gearbox is perfect for the role of a light indicator for turning on the fan., and a diode soldered between them will help protect the contacts of the switching sensor from electromotive force (EMF).
To ensure that the circuits of the electric motor and the windings of its relay are protected by a fuse, a jumper is installed in the black box between the contacts, the material for which can be, for example, two male terminals and a piece of thick copper wire. Upon completion of work, all contacts should be treated with special lubricant.
In addition, when performing such modifications, it would be useful to clean and lubricate the fan motor, and if you also replace the standard impeller with four blades with a part with eight blades, then the air flow passing through the radiator will increase significantly, which means the cooling quality should improve.
We briefly described only two options for refining the circuit for switching on an electric radiator fan, but this is far from a final figure, because everything depends on the imagination of the car owner and the capabilities of his vehicle.
Probably, many have noticed that the fan switching temperature on the latest generation VAZ 2110 -2112 engines (100-105 C) is too high compared to the normal operating temperature of the engine (85-90 C).
First of all, this introduction is connected with the manufacturer’s struggle for cleaner exhaust from the pipe of your car (requirements of modern Euro 3 standards and higher). At this temperature, more complete combustion of the fuel and its components occurs.
But it should be noted that, as always, a given positive side for one aspect brings something negative for another. So, with a slight, but still overheating of the engine and head, irreversible physicochemical processes occur in the metal, which ultimately affects the overall final operation of the engine hours of the power unit. Apart from the fact that in the event of a failure of the electrical components that affect the fan’s activation, the time to notice this at an elevated standard switching temperature of 105 C to overheating of 125 C will be significantly less than from normal operating temperature to overheating.
For more uniform and controlled operation of the engine, it is proposed to make a parallel fan circuit. A positive contact is always connected to one of the fan contacts, and for the second negative contact it is suggested to connect through a parallel wire with a switch according to Fig. 1.
Figure 1 Electrical circuit diagram for connecting the radiator fan VAZ 2110 2111 2112
Figure 2 Wire connection location in the engine compartment to turn on the VAZ 21102 radiator fan
Figure 3 Alternative location for installing the radiator fan switch VAZ 2110 2111 2112
After implementing this solution, all that remains is to mention the additional opportunities to control the operating temperature of the power unit with all the subsequent positive arguments given above.
PS Due to established conservative views, many may think that a relay is required in the electrical circuit to turn on the cooling system fan. I am against unnecessary things and can say that in order for the circuit to work, just a powerful switch rated for a current of at least 20 A for 12 Volts, that is, 240 Watts (such switches are commercially available - for example, 220 Volt 16 A, as in Figure 3, that is, at 3520 watts) This scheme has been successfully working on a VAZ 21102, produced in 2001, for 3 years. It should also be additionally noted that this method is not a replacement for the standard circuit for triggering the radiator fan in a car and is intended only as an alternative solution for operating the engine at lower temperatures, controlled directly by the driver.
In any case, if the engine overheats, even if you have implemented the principle described above, still check the cooling system and ensure that it is in full working order.
Emergency actions if the engine cooling system overheats while driving.
At the first signs of overheating, if the temperature gauge needle has gone into the red zone, but no clouds of steam are escaping from under the hood, turn on the maximum interior heating mode. This is necessary in order to reduce the temperature of the coolant in the engine cooling system.
Turn on the hazard lights, depress the clutch pedal and, using the inertia of the car, try to carefully move to the edge of the roadway and stop as far to the right as possible on the side of the road, and if possible, outside the roadway. Let the engine run for a couple of minutes at normal idle speed with the heater turned on at full power, but do not turn off the engine immediately. Open the hood and inspect the engine compartment.
After stopping the overheated engine, local overheating of the coolant begins at the points of contact with the most heat-stressed engine parts and the formation of increased local overheating. In addition, it is better to start the car for 10 seconds after 2-3 minutes so that the new volume of coolant begins to contact the engine parts.
Determine where the steam is coming from, if any. When inspecting the engine, pay attention to the presence of coolant in the expansion tank (be careful not to get burned), to the integrity of the rubber hoses, radiator, and thermostat.
Look under the instrument panel on the front passenger side of the cabin and find out if there is a leak underneath or traces of coolant leaking from the heater core.
If coolant leaks are detected, the burst hose can be temporarily repaired using duct tape or adhesive tape from your first aid kit.
A leak in a radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to eliminate on site, so in such a situation it is necessary to add water to the cooling system and carefully monitor the temperature gauge while driving, periodically restoring the level in the cooling system.
The engine may overheat if the thermostat fails, which regulates the flow of fluid in the cooling system through or in addition to the radiator (to speed up the warm-up of a cold engine). To check the thermostat, on a warm engine, check by touch the temperature of the hose connecting the thermostat housing to the radiator. If the hose is cold, the thermostat is faulty and there is no circulation through the radiator.
Very often, the cause of overheating of an engine whose cooling system is equipped with an electric fan is the failure of the fan. Start the engine, monitor the temperature and see if the cooling fan turns on when the engine overheats.
If the fan does not turn on, the fuse may be blown, the start relay is faulty, the motor is burnt out, or the wiring is faulty.
Check the integrity of the electrical wiring and the reliability of the connections of the electrical connectors.
If the wiring is OK, check the fuse and replace it if faulty.
If the fuse is good, try replacing the fan relay.
If the fan still does not turn on, check the motor. To do this, take two additional wires and supply power to it directly from the battery. Wires must be securely fastened and insulated.
If the electric motor starts to work, the electrical wiring is faulty; if not, the wiring or the electric motor itself is also faulty. The relay and electric motor are beyond repair; replace them as an assembly.
