Start the 12V charger with your own hands. Homemade starting device for a car. Selecting a device diagram

Every car enthusiast at least once in his life has encountered a problem when his vehicle does not start for some reason. The inability to start the engine may be due to the inoperability of certain components, and sometimes the problem is simply a dead battery. Below you can find out how to choose the right starting charger for a car battery and how you can make it yourself.

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Step-by-step guide to choosing a ROM

Today in Russian auto stores you can find many different pre-start devices from different manufacturers. Each of them is characterized by the presence of certain functions, power, and other features. To choose the right starting charger for your car battery, you need to follow a few simple recommendations.

Briefly about them:

1. Functions. First of all, you need to decide whether you really need to buy a jump starter charger with a motor starting function. If you understand that you need such a function, then the choice must be built directly from the ROM. If you just need a charger that will allow you to charge your car battery, then the best option would be to choose a regular charger. Such a device will be enough for these purposes, especially since its cost will be significantly lower compared to ROM.
2. Characteristics of starting current. Next, having decided on the device, you need to pay attention to the inrush current characteristics. This indicator is selected depending on the starting current of the battery installed on the car. It should be noted that the starting currents of cars with diesel engines differ significantly from the current indicators in gasoline cars. Often you can find ROMs on sale that do not allow you to regulate the current value, but have the function of accelerated or normal charging mode. It must be taken into account that the accelerated mode is carried out with a higher current, accordingly, the car battery can be charged more quickly. However, experts do not recommend using this mode often, as this will affect the service life of the battery.
   As for the normal mode, it is carried out with a lower current, but such charging takes longer. Thanks to the operation of the normal mode, sulfate is completely dissolved on the plates, and accordingly, this will have a good effect on the battery capacity. It must be taken into account that the starting current depends on the battery capacity, which determines the ability of the battery to produce maximum current for thirty seconds. In any case, the characteristics of the purchased device must fully correspond to the characteristics of the battery in the car.
3. Device type. The next step is to decide on the type of ROM for your vehicle. You can find both standalone and networked models on sale. As you understand, autonomous options can function without being connected to the network; they do not require electricity, since they are equipped with a built-in powerful battery. As for the network options, they can only function from the network. This means that their operation is only possible near the house or in the garage, and only if there is electricity in it.
4. Availability of additional functionality and control devices is an important point. So that the driver can always know how the charging process is carried out, experts recommend buying devices equipped with built-in voltmeters or ammeters. Today, most of the model options allow for the process of desulfation of the car battery. When the battery is in operation, insoluble lead crystals form on its internal elements, which can result in a short circuit inside the battery cans. In order to remove this plaque and increase the service life of the device, such crystals can be destroyed as a result of exposure to current.
   It is also necessary to consider that modern vehicles typically use lead-acid or gel devices. Lead-acid is much more common, so most jump starters you find on sale are designed to work only with lead-acid. As for gel batteries, not all ROMs are suitable for charging such batteries.
5. Temperature selection is an important point. Any launcher has a certain operating mode; you need to familiarize yourself with this characteristic before choosing a device. The temperature regime determines at what temperatures the device can start the engine. If the problem with starting the engine in your case is relevant in the winter season, then this characteristic cannot be ignored.

Before choosing a device, you need to consider that the device is being purchased for a long time. Even if today you own a small car with a 60 Ah battery, perhaps in a few years you will have a more powerful car with a more powerful battery. Therefore, in order to purchase the ROM correctly, it is advisable to take the device with a reserve. If you buy a device designed for a current of 15 amperes, this will make it possible to charge even the most powerful batteries.

Whatever ROM you choose, you must take into account that, unlike traditional ROMs, these devices operate with high currents. Therefore, during operation it is always necessary to observe safety precautions - the wires are always connected strictly - plus to plus, minus to minus.

DIY instructions

If necessary, you can easily assemble a starting charger for a car at home with your own hands. This will save money, but to assemble it yourself you need to have certain skills. If you have them, then we offer detailed instructions (the author of the video is Anton Buryy).

Materials and equipment

So, if you want to make a starting battery charger with your own hands, then first of all you need to make sure that you have everything at hand.

We are talking about the following materials and tools:

• a working soldering iron with all consumables;
• textolite tiles;
• transformer, you will need a step-down device;
• a small fan, can be used from the computer power supply or from the PC case;
• high voltage cable, cross-section should be 2-2.5 millimeters;
• You will also need wires with which the ROM will be connected to the battery; these wires must be equipped with special clamps.

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Of course, in addition to this, you must have all the necessary radio components, as well as elements for fastening.

Device assembly process

Now let's move directly to the issue of assembling a starting charging device with our own hands in accordance with the diagram. There can be many schemes; you can find dozens of different schemes on the Internet. We bring to your attention one of the simplest schemes that will allow you to assemble it yourself.

1. Do-it-yourself assembly of the device is carried out on a PCB tile that you have prepared in advance; its size must be appropriate. One of the most basic and largest elements of a starting battery charger is the transformer, so we will start with it. In the PCB tile, using a drill, you need to drill holes of the required sizes into which fasteners and wiring will be installed.
2. Rectifier diodes can get very hot during operation, so you need to think about proper cooling for them in advance. For example, special iron cooling elements (so-called jackets) can be used for these purposes. Sometimes installing metal jackets may not be enough to provide cooling for the rectifier diodes. In this case, you will need the same fan that you removed from the old computer case or power supply. If there is no such fan, then you can use heat removal devices from the computer processor, a radiator. In order for a home-made starting charger to remove heat, the case must be equipped with appropriate heat-dissipating blinds in advance.
3. According to many car enthusiasts, a home-made starting battery charger does not necessarily need to be installed in the case. But if you have already assembled the device, is it really difficult to equip it with a housing? Moreover, it is the case that allows you to protect the battery charger from various external influences, which is especially important if you plan to carry the device with you in the car. Moreover, when working with ROM, the driver will be protected from the effects of current, and this is important.
4. To equip the case, you can use a box of appropriate sizes. For example, this could be a case from an old desktop computer. You will have to modify it a little, but in the end you will get a full-fledged starting charger made by yourself. In addition, all indicators and switches, as well as other control components, can be mounted on the front of the computer case. Learn more about how to make an adjustable ROM with your own hands from the video. The author of the video, valeriyvalki, states that even a person who does not have knowledge in the field of radio electronics can cope with such a task.

Of course, if you decide to start such an important process, then you will want the device that is made for you to last a long time and to be able to rely on it at any time. Achieving this can sometimes be difficult, especially if you have no experience in making such devices and this is your first time encountering it.

So, in order to do everything correctly with your own hands, you need to take into account some recommendations, we will talk about them further:

1. Firstly, you need to take a responsible approach to choosing a transformer. You need to choose a device that has a good power reserve. If the device is more powerful, then during operation, when charging the vehicle battery, it will heat up less. Accordingly, the service life of such a device will be longer. If in the future you suddenly decide to upgrade your ROM, making it more functional and, accordingly, more energy-consuming, then more power will also be to your advantage. Thanks to the high power, you don't have to buy a new transformer or reassemble it. Remember that the transformer is one of the main components of any ROM. You also need to take into account that the transformer itself must be of high quality; if you see that its condition is deplorable, then it is better not to use such an element for making ROM. Otherwise, you may even damage your car battery.
2. An equally important component of any ROM circuit is the high voltage wires. When purchasing such wires, you need to make a choice in favor of elements characterized by excellent insulation. First of all, insulation is an excellent protection for wiring from possible external influences. In addition, high voltage cables will not be as tangled as regular wires, and this will greatly simplify the ROM assembly procedure.
3. If you have a problem choosing cables for charging and connecting to the battery, then this problem can be solved. You can build such wires yourself by cutting off a certain part of the insulating layer on the cable, in particular, at the point of connection to the ROM and battery. You can use a soft copper wire as a cable; of course, it must have excellent insulation, which will avoid possible problems. When you have to force the engine to start, a cable with a poor cross-section will begin to heat up quickly, and accordingly, the insulation may also begin to lose its characteristics. As a result, this may cause a short circuit. Therefore, immediately make sure that the cables for starting the motor are removable; in this case, using the device will be more convenient.
4. Please ensure that the fan that will perform the cooling function is operational. Cooling during operation of the starter is very important. If the ROM is not cooled properly, it will overheat during operation, which can lead to certain problems.
5. If this is your first time encountering the issue of arranging such a system, then it is advisable to make the diagram as simple as possible. Connecting too complex circuits can confuse you, and if some actions are performed incorrectly, this can lead to a short circuit, which will negatively affect the battery's condition as a whole. If you doubt that you will be able to perform all the steps correctly and end up with a device that you can use, then the best option would be to buy a new ROM.

Video “Production of a starter-charger at home”

You can learn more about developing a circuit and creating a ROM with your own hands using improvised means from the video below (the author of the video is Evseenko Technology).

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I present to your attention a powerfulstarter charger for charging car batteries voltage of 12 and 24 volts, as well as starting engines of cars and trucks with the corresponding voltages.

Its electrical circuit diagram:

The power source for the starter-charger is 220 volts of industrial frequency. The power consumed from the source can range from tens of watts in charging mode (when the batteries are almost charged and have a voltage of 13.8 - 14.4 volts or 27.6 - 28.8 volts for a pair connected in series) to several kilowatts in the starting mode of the car engine starter.

At the input of the device there is a two-pole circuit breaker with a current Inom = 25 A. The use of a two-pole circuit breaker is due to the reliability of disconnecting both the phase and the zero, since when connected through a standard Euro plug (with a grounding contact), there is no certainty that a single-pole circuit breaker will turn off the phase and thereby the entire device will be de-energized. This circuit breaker (in my version) is installed in a standard wall-mounted box. Frequently turning on the power with this switch does not make sense, and therefore did not install it on the front (front) panel.

Both in the “Start” mode and in the “Charge” mode, the power transformer is turned on by the same magnetic starter KM1, whose coil voltage is 220 volts and the current switched by the contacts is about 20-25 amperes.

The most important part of the starter-charger is the power transformer. I won’t give the circuit data of the power transformer, since I don’t think everyone will rush to copy one to one, I’ll just say what, in my opinion, you should pay attention to. As we have already noticed from the diagram, the transformer has a secondary winding with a branch from the middle. Here, during calculations, and then in practice, it is necessary to set the voltage at the output of the device (clamps on batteries - easier than crocodiles), taking into account the voltage drop across the diodes (in my version D161-250) within 13.8-14.4 volts for 12 volt mode and 27.6-28.8 for 24 volt mode, with a load current of up to 30 amperes. I used crocodiles from the weight of the welding machine, and accordingly painted the plus one red.

The 12/24 volt mode is installed by contactors KM2, KM3, the power contacts of which, rated for 80 amperes, are connected in parallel, giving a total of 240 amperes.

A shunt is installed in the circuit on the 12/24 volt side, and the contacts of the magnetic starter of the "" mode are installed in the ammeter circuit break.Charge" This ammeter must measure the charging current. The scale limit in my version is 0...30 A. The circuit closes in charging mode.

Separately, I would like to talk about the “Charge" As you have already noticed, there is no charge current control circuit here, but it can be said to be maximum. Error? I think no. Let's look at the electrical equipment of the average car. So, there the relay regulator regulates not the charge current, but... drives the generator into the parameters of the on-board network of the car, the same 13.8-14.4 volts, respectively, if you wind the transformer correctly, taking into account the voltage drop on the power diodes, then compare this circuit the car's generator, and as the battery charges, the current will only drop.

And, do not forget, in a diode bridge it is necessary to take into account that two diodes operate in series, that is, the voltage drop must be multiplied by two.

Among the shortcomings of this circuit, I can only highlight the dependence of the network voltage on the charging current. Since my version will be used at service stations, where the network voltage changes little and its main task is to start trucks with a voltage of 24 volts, I don’t see the need to complicate the design. But the solution to the problem can be to install an autotransformer through the free contacts of the magnetic starter KM4, parallel to KM1. Best regards, AZhila.

Starting the internal combustion engine of even a passenger car in winter, and even after a long period of parking, is often a big problem. This issue is even more relevant for powerful trucks and tractor-trailer equipment, of which there are many already in private use - after all, they are operated mainly in conditions of garage-free storage.

And the reason for difficult starting is not always that the battery is “not in its first youth.” Its capacity depends not only on the service life, but also on the viscosity of the electrolyte, which, as is known, thickens with decreasing temperature. And this leads to a slowdown in the chemical reaction with its participation and a decrease in the battery current in starter mode (by about 1% for each degree of temperature decrease). Thus, even a new battery significantly loses its starting capabilities in winter.

Do-it-yourself starting device for a car

To insure against unnecessary hassle associated with starting a car engine in the cold season, I made a starting device with my own hands.
The calculation of its parameters was carried out according to the method specified in the list of references.

The operating current of the battery in starter mode is: I = 3 x C (A), where C is the nominal battery capacity in Ah.
As you know, the operating voltage on each battery (“can”) must be at least 1.75 V, that is, for a battery consisting of six “cans,” the minimum operating voltage of the Up battery will be 10.5 V.
Power supplied to the starter: P st = Uр x I р (W)

For example, if a passenger car has a 6 ST-60 battery (C = 60A (4), Rst will be 1890 W.
According to this calculation, according to the scheme given in, a launcher of the appropriate power was manufactured.
However, its operation showed that it was possible to call the device a starting device only with a certain degree of convention. The device was capable of operating only in the “cigarette lighter” mode, that is, in conjunction with the car’s battery.

At low outside temperatures, starting the engine with its help had to be done in two stages:
- recharging the battery for 10 - 20 seconds;
- joint (batteries and devices) engine promotion.

An acceptable starter speed was maintained for 3 - 5 seconds, and then decreased sharply, and if the engine did not start during this time, it was necessary to repeat it all over again, sometimes several times. This process is not only tedious, but also undesirable for two reasons:
- firstly, it leads to overheating of the starter and increased wear;
- secondly, it reduces the battery life.

It became clear that these negative phenomena can be avoided only when the power of the launcher is sufficient to start a cold car engine without the help of a battery.

Therefore, it was decided to manufacture another device that satisfies this requirement. But now the calculation was made taking into account losses in the rectifier unit, supply wires and even on the contact surfaces of the connections during their possible oxidation. One more circumstance was also taken into account. The operating current in the primary winding of the transformer when starting the engine can reach values ​​of 18 - 20 A, causing a voltage drop in the supply wires of the lighting network by 15 - 20 V. Thus, not 220, but only 200 V will be applied to the primary winding of the transformer.

Diagrams and drawings for starting the engine

According to the new calculation according to the method specified in, taking into account all power losses (about 1.5 kW), the new starting device required a step-down transformer with a power of 4 kW, that is, almost four times more than the power of the starter. (Corresponding calculations were made for the manufacture of similar devices intended for starting the engines of various cars, both carburetor and diesel, and even with a 24 V on-board network. Their results are summarized in the table.)

At these powers, a crankshaft rotation speed is ensured (40 - 50 rpm for carburetor engines and 80 - 120 rpm for diesel engines), which guarantees reliable engine starting.

The step-down transformer was made on a toroidal core taken from the stator of a burnt-out 5 kW asynchronous electric motor. Cross-sectional area of ​​the magnetic circuit S, T = a x b = 20 x 135 = 2700 (mm2) (see Fig. 2)!

A few words about preparing the toroidal core. The stator of the electric motor is freed from winding residues and its teeth are cut out using a sharp chisel and hammer. This is not difficult to do, since the iron is soft, but you need to use safety glasses and gloves.

The material and design of the handle and base of the trigger are not critical, as long as they perform their functions. My handle is made of a steel strip with a cross section of 20x3 mm, with a wooden handle. The strip is wrapped in fiberglass impregnated with epoxy resin. A terminal is mounted on the handle, to which the input of the primary winding and the positive wire of the starting device are then connected.

The frame base is made of a steel rod with a diameter of 7 mm in the form of a truncated pyramid, the ribs of which they are. The device is then attracted to the base by two U-shaped brackets, which are also wrapped in fiberglass impregnated with epoxy resin.

A power switch is attached to one side of the base, and a copper plate of the rectifier unit (two diodes) is attached to the other. A minus terminal is mounted on the plate. At the same time, the plate also serves as a radiator.

The switch is type AE-1031, with built-in thermal protection, rated for a current of 25 A. Diodes are type D161 - D250.

The estimated current density in the windings is 3 - 5 A/mm2. The number of turns per 1 V of operating voltage was calculated using the formula: T = 30/Sct. The number of turns of the primary winding of the transformer was: W1 = 220 x T = 220 x 30/27 = 244; secondary winding: W2 = W3 = 16 x T = 16x30/27 = 18.
The primary winding is made of PETV wire with a diameter of 2.12 mm, the secondary winding is made of an aluminum busbar with a cross-sectional area of ​​36 mm2.

First, the primary winding was wound with a uniform distribution of turns around the entire perimeter. After that, it is turned on through the power cord and the no-load current is measured, which should not exceed 3.5A. It must be remembered that even a slight decrease in the number of turns will lead to a significant increase in the no-load current and, accordingly, to a drop in the power of the transformer and starting device. Increasing the number of turns is also undesirable - it reduces the efficiency of the transformer.

The turns of the secondary winding are also evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the core. When laying, use a wooden hammer. The leads are then connected to the diodes, and the diodes are connected to the negative terminal on the panel. The middle common terminal of the secondary winding is connected to the “positive” terminal located on the handle.

Now about the wires connecting the starter to the starter. Any carelessness in their manufacture can nullify all efforts. Let's show this with a specific example. Let the resistance Rnp of the entire connecting path from the rectifier to the starter be equal to 0.01 Ohm. Then, at a current I = 250 A, the voltage drop on the wires will be: U pr = I r x Rpr = 250 A x 0.01 Ohm = 2.5 V; in this case, the power loss on the wires will be very significant: P pr = Upr x Iр = 625 W.

As a result, a voltage of not 14, but 11.5 V will be supplied to the starter in operating mode, which, of course, is undesirable. Therefore, the length of the connecting wires should be as short as possible (1_p 100 mm2). The wires must be stranded copper, in rubber insulation. For convenience, the connection to the starter is made quick-release, using pliers or powerful clamps, for example, those used as electrode holders for household welding machines. In order not to confuse the polarity, the handle of the clamps of the positive wire is wrapped with red electrical tape, and the handle of the negative wire is wrapped with black tape.
The short-term operating mode of the starting device (5 - 10 seconds) allows its use in single-phase networks. For more powerful starters (over 2.5 kW), the PU transformer must be three-phase.

A simplified calculation of a three-phase transformer for its manufacture can be made according to the recommendations set out in, or you can use ready-made industrial step-down transformers such as TSPK - 20 A, TMOB - 63, etc., connected to a three-phase network with a voltage of 380 V and producing a secondary voltage of 36 V.

The use of toroidal transformers for single-phase starting devices is not necessary and is dictated only by their best weight and dimensions (weight about 13 kg). At the same time, the technology for manufacturing a starting device based on them is the most labor-intensive.

The calculation of the starting device transformer has some features. For example, the calculation of the number of turns per 1 V of operating voltage, made according to the formula: T = 30/Sct (where Sct is the cross-sectional area of ​​the magnetic circuit), is explained by the desire to “squeeze” the maximum possible out of the magnetic circuit to the detriment of efficiency. This is justified by its short-term (5 - 10 seconds) operating mode. If dimensions do not play a decisive role, you can use a more gentle mode by calculating using the formula: T = 35/Sct. The magnetic core is then taken with a cross-section that is 25 - 30% larger.
The power that can be “removed” from the manufactured PU is approximately equal to the power of the three-phase asynchronous electric motor from which the transformer core is made.

When using a powerful starting device in a stationary version, according to safety requirements, it must be grounded. The handles of the connecting pliers must be rubber insulated. To avoid confusion, it is advisable to mark the “plus” part, for example, with red electrical tape.

When starting, the battery does not need to be disconnected from the starter. In this case, the clamps are connected to the corresponding terminals of the battery. To avoid overcharging the battery, the starting device is immediately turned off after starting the engine.

A simple starting-charger for a car battery is designed to ensure that the engine starts when the car’s battery is completely discharged. Using the ROM, the consumer can replenish the battery charge level and start the internal combustion engine when the battery is critically discharged. Traditional chargers only allow you to increase the charge of the device.

Diagram of a conventional starter-charger

Depending on the model of the starting device for the car, its circuit may have certain differences.

How to assemble a starter-charger with your own hands (step-by-step instructions)

Universal instructions for assembling a ROM with your own hands:

1. The assembly can be carried out on different bases, but it is better to choose a textolite plate on which the transformer assembly is fixed. It is installed first because it is the largest component of the ROM.
2. Fixing parts and passing electrical lines on the plate is done by drilling holes of appropriate sizes.
3. Transformers, resistors, transistors and other components are installed on the board. Their presence is determined by the specific scheme. Fixation is carried out depending on the type of component - using self-tapping screws, glue or soldering. All parts are soldered together using a tin alloy.
4. When the device circuit includes rectifying diode elements, a cooling system will be required. It is possible to use special metal jackets. If they are not enough for high-quality cooling, the circuit can be supplemented with fans from desktop computers.

It is necessary to consider heat-removing blinds on the body; this will be required for heat removal. The case may not be used, but its presence will protect the device from various external influences.

How to assemble a 6 V device yourself?

For assembly you will need a transformer device; the best option is to use a separating mechanism. The electric coil will be mounted on the top of the transformer. To prevent accelerated winding output when using ROM, the consumer must make the basis for the device in advance.

Metal or wooden plates or a box are used as the base material:

1. If metal is preferred, then assembly will require a welding machine. Separate attention should be paid to the isolation of the ROM, otherwise its use may lead to injury to the consumer.
2. When wood is preferred, you should choose a box of the right size. The top part will be removable; the consumer should be able to dismantle it. If it is necessary to supplement the ROM with a power control device, the mechanism is mounted in the upper part of the device.

How to make a 10V charger?

To assemble a 10-volt starting charger, you need to select the device body. It can be made of wood, but during installation it is important to take into account the dimensions of the transformer device. If you give preference to analog mechanisms, then the foundation must be made strong. 10-volt models are equipped with a more powerful transformer, so handles are installed on the device body, in its upper part, for easy transportation. The transformer assembly itself is mounted in the center of the housing, and then the damper is installed.

The operating parameter of the ROM will be at least 4 Ah. The device must be able to charge a battery with a capacity of no more than 100 Ah. To diagnose operation, the device is additionally equipped with an ammeter.

In order to minimize the likelihood of overloads, isolation transformer mechanisms can be used. Installation of regulatory devices in such models is optional.

Adding zener diodes is possible, but these elements will be analog, digital parts are not used. The use of multi-channel devices will ultimately lead to overload, which will cause a malfunction of the secondary winding of the transformer mechanism. When selecting transistor elements, preference is given to parts with a maximum load parameter of about 3 amperes.

Circuit for assembling a 10-volt ROM

When the consumer prefers a linear resonant ROM, the minimum output voltage parameter will be about 10 volts. And the vector frequency will be approximately 44 Hz. To assemble the mechanism you will need an expansion device.

When installing clamps, it is better to give preference to aluminum elements, since they are minimally susceptible to the negative effects of corrosion.

Assembling 12 V models

Assembly of the 12-volt ROM is done using electrostatic capacitor devices; these parts are not difficult to find. A platform is used to create the device. When installing the transformer mechanism, a sealant is installed on the platform, only then can the inductor be mounted. It is better to purchase it complete with the primary winding. For installation, it is recommended to use open-type capacitor elements with the ability to withstand about 20 volts of output voltage.

The expansion elements are installed last; the consumer must first fix the damper. It is possible to add regulatory parts to the circuit, which are used to control the amount of power. When regulators are used, the circuit must be supplemented with a powerful power supply. Installation of a power supply is permitted only together with a zener diode.

For high-quality fastening of the clamps to the body, the use of welding equipment is allowed. When all assembly steps are completed, the damper is fixed. The installation of this unit is done next to the transformer device. Before using the ROM, it must be checked for grounding.

SadnessMan talked about the procedure for assembling a 12-volt ROM for the car's battery.

Single-phase modifications

To develop a single-phase ROM, you will need an integrated transformer device.

Assembly features of single-phase devices:

1. Assembly of single-phase modifications involves the use of welding machines and soldering irons. You will also need plumbing tools, in particular a set of wrenches.
2. The ROM body is made of metal sheets, the thickness of which is at least 1.4 mm. Fixing the body parts is done using bolts.
3. A rubberized seal must be installed on the bottom of the housing.
4. After installing the sealing component, the transformer device is mounted. Its fastening is carried out using special U-shaped inserts. Wooden boards are used as stops; each width is approximately 3.5 cm. To attach the stop, the body is measured.
5. Assembly of a single-phase modification ROM involves the use of damper devices; the use of resonant parts is allowed. The dampers can withstand about 20 volts of voltage.
6. When capacitor elements are added to the circuit, only open plan devices can be used. Such parts have the ability to support frequencies of about 45 Hz.
7. When the assembly steps are completed, the power supply is fixed and the cables with clamps for connection to the battery are secured.

Two-phase devices

Features of the assembly of two-phase starting and chargers for a car battery:

1. To develop the device you will need a transformer device with a powerful motor. The node coil can withstand about 20 volts of output voltage.
2. The circuit includes the presence of dampers; it is possible to use any types of devices. When choosing, you need to rely on the type of capacitors used. Experts often recommend installing open capacitor devices.
3. Only integral parts can be used as resistors.
4. Assembling a two-phase ROM involves the use of powerful expansion devices. Dynamic parts cannot be used.
5. To attach the clamps, you will need a conductor whose diameter will be approximately 0.4 mm.

Induction expanders for assembling two-phase ROMs have proven themselves to be among the most stable in practice.

Three-phase models

Features that must be taken into account when assembling devices of three-phase modifications:

1. To create a ROM you will need powerful transistors. To install such blocks, it is necessary to use a platform.
2. Assembly is carried out in a housing; it is recommended to use an open type, in which there is no top. For convenient transportation of the ROM, the case is equipped with wheels.
3. Assembly will require the use of transistor elements; network devices must be used. When selecting parts, keep in mind that they can withstand approximately 15 volts of voltage. And the transistor frequency will be no more than 40 Hz.
4. To create a ROM, you will need a transformer device; it is recommended to use threshold devices. When choosing a transformer, the technical characteristics of the coils are taken into account; these elements are designed to operate at low frequencies.
5. For assembly you will need a damper device; preference should be given to the resonant type. The damper is installed exclusively on the seal.
6. For more convenient operation, the three-phase ROM can be equipped with an indication system. It will be needed to monitor the voltage level that the device produces at the output.

Three-phase ROM assembly map

Video “How to build an adjustable ROM”

User valeriyvalki spoke in detail about the procedure for assembling an adjustable ROM with a description of all the features and components that were used for development.