Checking the generator voltage regulator may be necessary when problems with the battery begin to occur. In particular, it began to recharge. When such a malfunction occurs, it’s time to check the generator voltage regulator relay.
The relay should turn off at 14.2-14.5V
The task of this simple device is to regulate the voltage of the electric current to the battery. When it fails, the battery is either not charged enough or, on the contrary, overcharged, which is also dangerous, since this significantly reduces the battery life.
Agree that such a prospect is not very good because of one small detail. This is why it is so important to monitor the operating condition of the voltage regulator (it can also be called a pill or a chocolate bar). But in order to properly check the voltage regulator, you need to know its type and several important features.
Types of Voltage Regulators
Having understood what types of these devices there are, what their features and properties are, a complete understanding of the procedures carried out during testing will come. This will also give the answer to what scheme, in what way and how to check the generator voltage regulator. There are two types of regulators:
- combined;
- separate.
In the first case, it is meant that the regulator housing is combined with the brush assembly directly in the generator housing. In the second case, the regulator is a separate unit, which is located on the car body, in the engine compartment, and wires from the generator go to it, and wires from it go to the battery.
Features of regulators is that their bodies are non-separable. They are usually filled with sealant or special resin. And there is no particular point in repairing them, since the device is inexpensive. Therefore, the main problem in this regard is to check the generator voltage regulator relay. Regardless of the type of regulator, the voltage symptoms will be the same.
Symptoms of a problem
So, in case of low voltage, the battery simply will not charge. That is, in the morning you will not be able to start the car, the lights on the dashboard may not even light up, or troubles will arise while driving. For example, dim headlights at night, unstable operation of the electrical system (problems with electrical appliances - wipers, heaters, radio, etc.).
In case of increased voltage, there is a high probability of a decrease in the electrolyte level in the battery banks, or its boiling. A white coating may also appear on the battery case. When overcharging, the battery may behave inappropriately.
Signs, malfunctions and repair of the generator and voltage regulator
In addition, you can also identify the following signs of a faulty voltage regulator (in some cases, some of them may or may not be present, it all depends on the specific situation):
- when you turn on the ignition on the dashboard indicator light does not light up(although this may be a sign of other malfunctions, for example, that it has burned out, the contact has fallen out, and so on);
- after launch Battery indicator does not go off on the dashboard, that is, there are obvious malfunctions in battery charging;
- The brightness of the headlights becomes dependent on engine speed(you can check this somewhere in a deserted place by placing the car opposite a wall and accelerating - if the glow changes, then most likely the voltage regulator is faulty);
- car stopped starting normally the first time;
- constantly battery is running low;
- when the engine speed exceeds 2000 rpm indicators on the dashboard turn off;
- the dynamic characteristics of the car decrease, this is especially noticeable at high engine speeds;
- in some cases it may boil battery.
Reasons for failure of the relay regulator
The reasons for the failure of the voltage regulator may be:
- short circuit in the circuit, including interturn short circuit of the excitation winding;
- failure of the rectifier bridge (diode breakdown);
- reverse polarity or incorrect connection to the battery terminals;
- penetration of moisture into the housing of the regulator and/or generator (for example, when washing a car or driving in heavy rain);
- mechanical damage to the unit;
- natural wear and tear of the unit, including brushes;
- poor quality of the device being directly tested.
There are a number of simple methods for checking the regulator, regardless of whether the unit is removable or not.
The simplest way to check the generator voltage regulator
The simplest method of checking the regulator is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. However, it is worth immediately making a reservation that the algorithm given below does not give a 100% probability of failure of the regulator. Maybe, . But the advantage of this method is that it is simple and there is no need to dismantle the device from the car. So, the algorithm for checking the generator voltage regulator with a multimeter is as follows:
- Set the tester to DC voltage measurement mode at a limit of about 20 V (depending on the specific model, the main thing is that it displays values up to 20 V as accurately as possible).
- Start the engine.
- Measure the voltage at the battery terminals in idle mode (1000...1500 rpm). If the regulator and generator are working properly, the value should be within 13.2...14 V.
- Increase speed to 2000...2500 rpm. In the normal state of the electrical circuit, the corresponding voltage will increase to 13.6...14.2 V.
- When the speed increases to 3500 rpm and above, the voltage should not exceed 14.5 V.
If during the test the voltage values are very different from those given, then most likely the machine’s voltage regulator is faulty. Remember that the voltage should not fall below 12V and should not rise above 14.5V.
As mentioned above, the regulator can be separate or combined with a generator. Currently, almost all foreign cars, and most modern domestic cars, have combined relays installed. This is due to the specifics of their work and space saving.
Checking the combined relay-regulator
Checking the VAZ 2110 voltage regulator
To perform the corresponding check, it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. To do this, use a charger or power supply with an adjustable load (it is important that with its help it is possible to regulate the voltage value in the circuit), a 12 V light bulb (for example, from a turn signal or headlight, with a power of 3...4 W), a multimeter, directly the voltage regulator (this can be from a Bosch, Valeo or other generator). It is advisable to have the wires used for switching with “crocodiles”.
Checking the voltage regulator of the generator 37.3701: 1 - battery; 2 - ground terminal of the voltage regulator; 3 - voltage regulator; 4 – terminal “Ш” of the regulator; 5 - output “B” of the regulator; 6 - control lamp; 7 - terminal “B” of the voltage regulator.
If you assemble a circuit in which the voltage is at a standard value of 12.7 V, then the light bulb will simply glow. But if you use a voltage regulator to raise its value to 14...14.5 V, then if the relay is working, the light should go out. Otherwise the regulator is faulty. That is, when the voltage reaches 14...14.5 V (depending on the model of the machine and, accordingly, the regulator) and above, the light goes out, and when it drops to the same level it lights up again.
It is important that the light does not go out until the voltage supplied to the regulator reaches 14 V. Otherwise, at idle, the generator will not be able to properly recharge the battery.
Checking the VAZ 2107 voltage regulator
Checking the voltage regulator on VAZ 2108/2109 cars
Until 1996, a VAZ 2107 with a 37.3701 brand generator was equipped with an old-style voltage regulator (17.3702). The verification procedure is given above. After 1996, a more modern generator of the G-222 brand was used (integrated regulator RN Ya112V (V1).
As you can see, the verification algorithm for all regulators is almost the same. The only difference is the cutoff values when the relay is activated.
Checking an Individual Regulator
Checking the voltage regulator of the G-222 generator: 1 - battery; 2 - voltage regulator; 3 - control lamp.
As a rule, separate voltage regulators were installed on old cars, including domestic VAZs. But some manufacturers continue to do this to this day. The verification process is similar. To do this, you need to have a power supply with a voltage regulator, a 12 V light bulb, a multimeter and a directly tested regulator.
To check, you need to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The process itself is similar to the one above. In normal condition (at a voltage of 12 V), the light bulb lights up. When the voltage value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out, and when it decreases, it lights up again. If during the process the lamp lights up or goes out at other values, it means that the regulator has failed.
Checking relay type 591.3702-01
Relay test diagram type 591.3702-01
You can also still find a voltage regulator of type 591.3702-01, which was installed on rear-wheel drive VAZs (from VAZ 2101 to VAZ 2107), GAZ and Moskvich. The device is mounted separately and installed on the body. In general, the test is similar to that described above, but the differences are in the contacts used.
In particular, it has two main contacts - “67” and “15”. The first of them is a minus, and the second is a plus. Accordingly, to check it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The verification principle remains the same. In normal condition, at a voltage of 12 V, the light bulb lights up, and when the corresponding value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out. When the value returns to its original value, the light comes on again.
A classic regulator of this type is a device of the PP-380 brand, installed on VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2102 cars. We provide reference data regarding this regulator.
Testing a three-level relay
Some car owners install on their cars, instead of standard “chocolate bars,” three-level relays, which are technologically more advanced. Their difference is the presence of three voltage levels at which the battery power is cut off (for example, 13.7 V, 14.2 V and 14.7 V). The appropriate level can be set manually using a special regulator.
Such relays are more reliable and allow flexible adjustment of the cutoff voltage level. As for checking such a regulator, it is completely similar to the procedures described above. Just do not forget about the value that is set on the relay, and accordingly, check it with a multimeter.
Generator check
There is one method by which you can check the performance of a car generator equipped with a regulator relay 591.3702-01 with diagnostic elements. It is as follows:
- disconnect the wires that went to pins 67 and 15 of the voltage regulator;
- connect a light bulb to it (excluding the regulator from the circuit);
- Remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery.
If, as a result of these actions, the engine does not stall, then we can say that the car’s generator is in order. Otherwise, it is faulty and needs to be checked and replaced.
In order to increase the service life of the voltage regulator, it is necessary to adhere to several simple rules aimed at implementing preventive measures. Among them:
- do not allow excessive contamination of the generator, periodically inspect its condition, and, if necessary, dismantle and clean the unit;
- check the tension of the alternator belt, tighten it if necessary (either yourself or in a car service);
- monitor the condition of the generator windings, in particular, do not allow them to darken;
- check the contact on the control wire of the relay-regulator, both its quality and the presence of oxidation on it;
- Perform periodic voltage checks on the vehicle battery with the engine running.
Following these simple rules will allow you to increase the resource and service life of both the generator and the vehicle voltage regulator.
Results
Checking the voltage regulator relay is not a difficult task, and almost any car enthusiast with basic repair skills can handle it. The main thing is to have the appropriate tools for this - a multimeter, a power supply with a voltage regulator (although you can connect it to a battery with a charger), a 12 V lamp and pieces of wires for mounting the appropriate circuit.
If during the inspection process you find out that the regulator is faulty, then it must be replaced(repair work is usually not carried out). The main thing is not to make a mistake when choosing it and purchase the part that is suitable specifically for your car.
Failure of the relay regulator is the most common cause of malfunction of automobile generators. That is why they usually begin monitoring the performance of generator components by checking the regulator.
In most cases, you can do this yourself even without removing it.
Operating principle of the generator voltage regulator
The generator is one of the most conservative components of cars. Developed in the mid-60s, the circuit has remained virtually unchanged to this day, with the exception of the element base.
Scheme
In general, the circuit of a car generator can be depicted as follows:
It contains the following main components:
- rectifier bridge 5 and 6;
- rectifier bridge for power supply of relay-regulator 7;
- excitation winding brushes 10;
- field winding (armature) 9;
- stator winding 8;
- indicator lamp 4;
- battery 3;
- ignition switch contact group 1;
- capacitor 2 (may be missing).
The general principle of operation of alternating current generators was invented by the brilliant Tesla. A direct current through the field winding induces a magnetic field. During the rotation of the field coil (armature) inside the stator winding, an alternating voltage is generated in the latter.
This voltage is converted to DC by a rectifier made on a diode bridge 5 and 6. Rectified voltage.
The higher the current in the field winding, the higher the generator voltage will be.
What function does the relay regulator perform? Essentially it is a feedback amplifier. That is, as soon as the voltage increases, its circuit reduces the current through the field winding.
Accordingly, the generator voltage decreases. Then it increases the winding current, the generator voltage increases. And so on ad infinitum. Ultimately, the generator voltage stabilizes at a certain level. This entire stabilization process lasts a fraction of a second.
Kinds
Relay regulators are classified according to the element base of execution:
- relay;
- transistor-relay;
- transistor (in cars before the 90s);
- integral (in modern cars);
- microprocessor-based with program control (Audi, BMW).
By design:
- external, fixed to body elements;
- built-in;
- built-in, combined with brushes.
In modern cars, devices combined with brushes are most often used. This has its drawback: when the brushes wear out, the relay regulator also has to be changed. Conversely, failure of the relay regulator can lead to the replacement of healthy brushes.
Some specialists only change the brushes located together with the relay regulator. This is not the best option for reasons of reliability, especially since the cost of relay regulators for common cars is not so high and may even be lower than the cost of replacing brushes.
Possible causes of malfunction
The main causes of malfunctions of generator voltage relay regulators are:
- interturn short circuit of the excitation winding. The most dangerous cause of malfunction. After replacing the relay regulator, the generator operates without problems for a certain time. But the regulator operates at high currents and after a couple of months it burns out again. In this case, it is necessary to remove the generator and take it for testing;
- failure of the rectifier bridge (diode breakdown). Less dangerous, especially since this malfunction causes overheating of the generator, and the diodes are changed first;
- reversal or reversal of battery poles. In this case, the rectifier diodes also fail;
- destruction of brushes;
- short circuit at the control terminal of the relay regulator;
- natural wear and tear.
The consequences of a faulty relay regulator can be significant:
- Increased generator voltage can lead to failure of the car's electronic components, so do not do it with the engine running;
- internal short circuit of the relay-regulator leads to overheating of the excitation winding and, ultimately, more expensive repairs;
- destruction of the relay-regulator brushes can cause final breakdown of the generator, its jamming, belt breakage and more serious consequences.
Main symptoms of a malfunction
The very first sign of a malfunction is the absence of a warning light (indicator) on the dashboard when the ignition is turned on.
In older cars, where the battery charging pattern is similar to that shown in the first figure, it is too early for car enthusiasts to panic. Perhaps it was just a burnt out light bulb or a broken connection, and these cases are quite common. Car owners remove the generator and take it for testing, but in vain.
The second sign is that the “battery” indicator does not go out after starting the engine. This already indicates a violation of the charging process and a possible malfunction of the generator.
Another sign of a malfunction is that the brightness of the low and high beams depends on the engine speed. By the way, it is recommended to carry out such a check regularly. To do this, you need to stop in the dark in a quiet place in front of some building and turn on the high beams in neutral. A change in brightness indicates possible problems with the charging system.
The smell of burnt windings in the cabin is also a sign of a generator malfunction, but you may not notice it.
How to independently check the generator relay regulator with a multimeter or lamp
If you suspect a malfunction of the battery charging system, the check should begin by monitoring the voltage on the battery with the engine running. It should be within 13.3 - 14.5 Volts. A voltage of more than 15 Volts is a sure sign of a faulty relay regulator.
Video - how to check a relay regulator without an regulated power source:
Sometimes there is another one to control the tachometer. You should check the control wire to ground. A resistance below 10 ohms will also indicate a malfunction of the relay regulator.
The following checks should be carried out with the relay regulator removed from the generator. In most cases, this can and should be done without dismantling the generator. The relay regulator is usually attached to the generator with two or three bolts or screws.
After this, you need to assemble a simple circuit.
or another version of it
You can use a regular salon lamp as a light bulb. Its glow will indicate the serviceability of the relay regulator. On the removed relay, you should also check the condition of the brushes.
On the Internet you can find test diagrams for almost any type of generator voltage regulator relays.
If the test results are negative, the regulator should be changed. Usually its cost does not exceed 2000 rubles for common brands.
At the slightest suspicion of a malfunction of the battery charging system (change in the brightness of the lamps, blinking of the indicator lamp, difficulty starting the engine, overheating of the device, etc.), you should immediately check the functionality of the generator, especially in the cold season.
To ensure that the generator lasts longer, follow these simple rules:
- do not allow the generator to become excessively dirty (it has technological openings for ventilation, dirt can get there), clean its surface;
- periodically check the belt tension;
- monitor the condition of the stator windings, this can be done through the technological holes, they should not be darkened;
- poor contact of the control wire can lead to failure of the relay regulator;
- To prevent overcharging of the battery and failure of the vehicle's electronic systems, periodically check the voltage on the battery with the engine running (charge voltage).
And may your generator last longer!
In electrical networks, automatic switching on and off of the generator is very often used. For this purpose there is a voltage regulator relay. With its help, the generator is protected from overloads and allows automatic regulation of voltage and current within established limits. This device is mainly used in the electrical networks of all cars and is installed in the engine compartment.
Purpose and design of the relay regulator
This device is a three-element one, consisting of three independent machines. These are a reverse current relay, a current limiter and a voltage regulator. These components are mounted on a common base and closed with a common lid. To connect wires, three terminals are installed on the base.
Automatic connection of the generator to the network is carried out using a reverse current relay, provided that it exceeds the battery voltage by a certain value. When the voltage drops, the generator automatically turns off. It consists of a coil and a core with two windings - shunt and serial with a different number of turns of wire, as well as a yoke and an armature with a contact system.
Preset generator voltage limits are maintained using a regulator. It includes a coil and a core with a winding, an armature with a contact system, a yoke, a magnetic shunt, and a cylindrical spring.
One end of the coil winding is connected to ground and the other to the generator terminal, passing through the yoke, resistance and windings. Thus, the value of current and magnetic flux depends on the voltage that develops. The voltage regulator allows you to automatically regulate the charging current obtained due to the voltage difference between the battery and the generator.
Using a Current Limiter
A current limiter is used to protect the generator from overloads. The composition includes a coil and a core with a winding, as well as a resistance winding, a yoke and an armature with contacts, as in other component devices. The principle of operation of the device coincides with the voltage regulator, when the entire generator load is passed through the limiter winding.
The general normal operation of the relay regulator can be determined using the button located on the instrument panel and by the condition of the battery itself. If the ammeter constantly shows a high charging current value, despite the fact that the battery is in good condition, this means that the voltage regulator relay is operating at high voltage.
This device is a rather complex device that requires precise adjustments and competent handling. Adjustment should only be carried out using precise control instruments.
Relay regulator voltage rectifier
From the article you will learn about what a voltage regulator relay for a car generator is. Also, consider the design of generator sets that are used on modern vehicles. The car has two main power sources - a generator and a battery. Moreover, they must work simultaneously. With one peculiarity - the engine starts from the battery, but when the engine is running, the on-board network is powered from both sources. In addition, the generator recharges the battery. It is also worth noting that car generators are very reliable units that work well in any climate zone.
Generator device
A feature of all car generators is that they produce three-phase alternating voltage. Most of the devices have a right rotation; in the front part there is an impeller, which is necessary for blowing air through the housing and windings. On the back cover there is a protective casing, thanks to which moisture, dust, and dirt do not get inside the device. For example, the VAZ-2110 voltage regulator relay is protected by this cover from foreign objects, moisture and dust.
A rectifier block is installed inside the generator - six diodes connected in a bridge circuit. Here you can observe the difference from the classic bridge circuit, since there is a need to rectify the three-phase current. The rotor rotates inside the housing. It contains the field winding. In addition, there is also a winding on the body (stator - the stationary part), which generates current to power the vehicle's on-board network and recharge the battery.
Operating principle of the generator set
The operating principle is based on the effects of electromagnetic induction. Let's see what these effects are. Let's say there is a conductor that is in a magnetic field. Yes, in a state of rest you will not be able to observe anything. But if you force the conductor or the field to move, then a certain potential difference will appear at the terminals. To put it simply, it is alternating voltage. The story is the same in a generator - the rotor contains an excitation winding to which voltage is applied. As a result, a magnetic field is generated. The magnetic field in the seven generator is controlled by a VAZ 2107 voltage regulator relay.
When the rotor rotates from the engine crankshaft, the magnetic field begins to move, and a constant change in polarity occurs. The current is transferred to the field winding using graphite brushes and special slip rings. This is exactly how electricity is generated, then rectification needs to be done. And this is done with six (sometimes nine) diodes. Nine diodes are used in circuits that provide reverse voltage protection. True, in automotive technology such a switching option is not used.
How the field winding is powered
As you can understand, the most important thing is to power the excitation winding. And it plays a significant role in the generator. It was mentioned above that in order to transmit voltage to the winding, the presence of two units is necessary: brushes and rings. It is with their help that the VAZ-2110 voltage regulator relay works. The rings are located on the surface of the rotor, brushes are adjacent to them. This is the most vulnerable node of any generator. The brushes are made of graphite, so they gradually break down during friction. There is a high level of vibration in the place where the voltage regulator relay is located, so the possibility of its breakdown due to constant mechanical loads cannot be ruled out.
Therefore, it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the brush mechanism. In addition, by adjusting the power supply to the excitation winding, you can obtain a different output voltage. For example, if you apply 12 volts to the rotor winding, then the same amount will be stable at the generator output. If 6 volts are supplied, then the output will be exactly 6. It is in the rotor winding circuit that a device such as a voltage regulator relay is connected. Moreover, its design can be either mechanical or electronic.
Purpose of the voltage regulator
Today, semiconductor devices have become very popular. For example, the VAZ-2107 voltage regulator relay consists of a semiconductor switched on in key mode. Their advantage is their small size and the absence of the need to make adjustments. You are purchasing a product that has optimal adjustments and does not require intervention to ensure stable operation. You just need to install it on the generator and the device will start working. Moreover, the service life of a semiconductor device turns out to be hundreds of times higher than that of a mechanical one.
A voltage regulator is necessary to stabilize the voltage supplied to the rotor winding. And now the essence of the process. If the field winding is connected to a battery without a stabilizer, the output voltage will vary over a wide range - from 10 to 30 volts. And this is unacceptable, since the entire on-board network is designed for 12 volts. And the reason for the change in this range is the different number of revolutions of the crankshaft, and, as a consequence, the generator rotor. From this we can conclude that the higher the crankshaft speed, the higher the output voltage. The relay regulator allows you to get rid of this phenomenon.
The principle of operation of the voltage regulator
This article will only consider electronic designs based on semiconductors. The fact is that mechanical ones have not been used for a very long time, since they are morally obsolete. Therefore, a more modern voltage regulator relay circuit is now used. In addition, mechanical ones need to be constantly adjusted, and all motorists do not like this. How does this device work? Everything is quite simple if you understand the principle of operation. It is worth noting that the semiconductor operates in switch mode. To put it simply, a switch. When the rotor rotates, constant switching occurs - the excitation winding is either supplied with voltage from the output of the generator, or not.
The higher the voltage at the generator output, the more often the electronic key operates. Consequently, when the voltage increases to 13.5-14.2 volts, the rotor winding is disconnected from the power circuit. When the value drops below the mentioned limit, power begins to flow again. Of course, the VAZ-2114 voltage regulator relay is configured to operate precisely in the range that was given above. Due to the fact that such constant switching of the circuit occurs at a high frequency, the output of the generator produces the most stable voltage. It is worth remembering the values given above, as they will be useful for testing relay regulators. This process will not take much time, but will allow you to accurately determine the malfunction. If you often experience breakdowns of this unit, then you should pay attention to the generator. It is possible that it has internal damage that needs to be repaired.
Generator drive
A few words have already been said about the fact that the generator rotor rotates from the crankshaft. And the UAZ voltage regulator relay is powered from the generator output. There is a pulley on the crankshaft, which is connected to the rotor by a belt drive. It has a pulley of a similar design, but of a smaller diameter. Most modern cars use multi-ribbed multi-ribbed belts. They have reinforcement inside, the outer part is smooth, and the inner part has grooves. With their help, the belt is fixed on the surface of the pulleys. It is worth noting that a lot depends on the belt tension.
In particular, the life of the generator - if the belt is pulled too tight, the bearing located in the front cover quickly wears out. But if you pull it weakly, then you will feel a lack of current. The consequence of this is rapid discharge of the battery. The generator housing is secured to the engine block using two brackets - upper and lower. They are both movable, but to adjust the belt tension, it is enough to loosen the upper one. There is a pin on the device body that is attached to a bracket mounted on the engine block.
How to check the voltage regulator on a car
To diagnose power circuits, you will need a multimeter. It will need to be used in two modes - ohmmeter and voltmeter. If we remember what kind of electronic voltage relay-regulator circuit it is, it turns out that they cannot be repaired. Therefore, if this device is destroyed, you will have to install a new one. But it is worth noting that most regulators are made in a single housing with a brush assembly. Consequently, if the brushes become excessively worn, not only they are replaced, but also the voltage regulator.
To check the relay regulator, you do not need to remove it, although this procedure takes a few seconds. You will need a voltmeter. Moreover, the scale should be stretched, and the measurement limit should be in the range of 12..30 Volts. The reason is that, as mentioned earlier, if the stabilizer is faulty, the voltage in the on-board network increases. But sometimes it happens that the generator refuses to work at all; there is no voltage at its output. Consequently, the voltage regulator relay of a VAZ-2106 or other car stops working.
And the entire on-board network is powered only from the battery. Please note that its capacity will last for a very short time. Especially if the car is fuel-injected (a large discharge occurs when the fuel pump is running). To finally verify this, start the engine and turn on the low beam. Connect the voltmeter to the battery terminals. The voltage value should be in the range of 13.5-14.2 Volts. If it is less or more, then there is an obvious breakdown of the regulator or brush assembly.
Diagnostics using the power supply
But you can remove the regulator by disconnecting it from the generator. This way, checking the voltage regulator relay is much more efficient. Please note that when carrying out any work on electrical equipment, the battery must be disconnected. For diagnostics, you will need an incandescent lamp, as well as a power source with adjustable output voltage. If this is not the case, then you can use a battery charger and several AA batteries (to get a total voltage of over 15 Volts). The lamp is turned on between the brushes, and positive power is supplied to terminals “B” and “B”. Accordingly, a minus must be connected to the mass output. The following conditions must be met:
- voltage up to 14 volts - the lamp is on;
- voltage over 15 volts - the lamp goes out.
If some condition is not met, then we can say that the voltage regulator is broken.
Diagnosis of rotor winding condition
Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever, even such a reliable and durable unit as a generator can deteriorate. In particular, destruction of the rotor winding (excitation) often occurs. This can happen for various reasons. First of all, the unit cannot withstand mechanical stress. In addition, dust, water, dirt can get on it, hence reducing the resource and disrupting the operation of the generator as a whole. If the rotor winding breaks down, the generator stops generating electricity. The first sign of insufficient voltage in the network is that the direction indicators begin to flash very quickly and the light dims. Consequently, the generator voltage regulator relay does not work, since there is simply nothing to power it.
To diagnose the condition of the rotor winding, you must use an ohmmeter. Of course, to carry out a rough check, you can arm yourself with a simple probe made from an incandescent lamp and a AA battery. But the effectiveness of such diagnostics will not be extremely low. After disassembling the generator, take the rotor and connect an ohmmeter to the rings. It should show a resistance in the range of 1.8-5 ohms. If there is a significant difference from this value, a visual check must be carried out. For example, very often the wire that makes up the winding breaks. Moreover, the most common place for a break is when it is soldered to the rings.
Diagnostics of the stator winding
If the rotor winding can be checked directly on the car, however, for this you need to have long fingers and a keen eye, then the stator winding can be diagnosed only after complete disassembly of the generator. By the way, the voltage regulator relay on a scooter is checked in the same way as on a car. But diagnostics of the stator winding should be carried out after disassembling the entire mechanism. The reason is that the bridge rectifier will interfere with diagnostics. So what to do at the very beginning? And you need one device - an ohmmeter. Of course, a multimeter will be most suitable, since it can very quickly be switched to the “dialing” mode.
Check all three stator windings for breaks. To do this, connect an ohmmeter (or a multimeter in “testing” mode) to the terminals of the windings. If no problems are found, then continue diagnosing further. Using the same device, you need to determine whether there is a short circuit in the windings to the generator housing. In the same way, the presence of an interturn short circuit is checked. But this parameter is best checked using another device - a megger (for example, PDO-1). If any malfunction is detected in the stator winding, the unit must be replaced. Moreover, in some cases, when the generator requires complete repair, it is more reasonable to replace the entire device rather than install new elements.
Diagnosis of the rectifier unit
A voltage regulator relay is connected to the rectifier output. It is advisable to check power diodes only after disconnecting them from the terminals of the stator winding. To do this, as you understand, you need to completely disassemble the generator. Before starting the test, you need to remember your school physics course, or more precisely, the properties of semiconductors. You should know that diodes are capable of passing direct electric current through them in only one direction. It is this property that is taken as the basis for the test. To carry out the work, you need the same ohmmeter or multimeter in the “continuity” mode. Connect a diode to it, then change the polarity. If it conducts in one case and not in the other, then the diode is working. If it does not conduct current in any direction, then it is out of order. The same applies if it conducts in both directions.
Security measures
When the generator voltage regulator is being repaired or serviced, certain precautions must be taken. In order for the generator and its components to operate in a safe manner, certain requirements must be met. In particular, it is prohibited to operate a generator without a battery connected to the circuit. When the battery is disconnected for a short period of time, a sharp voltage surge occurs. As a result of this, the relay regulator fails. Please note that when trying to start from a tow, the generator may not always produce the required voltage. In addition, if you use “lighting up”, you need to include the maximum possible number of consumers at startup.
It is also unacceptable to connect any voltage sources to the on-board network, provided that the connection is made with the wrong polarity. Also, you cannot connect the vehicle’s on-board network to power sources with voltages exceeding 14 volts. If welding work is carried out, then it is necessary to disconnect the battery from the network, as well as the wires going to the excitation winding. In addition, the mass of the welding machine should not be connected to the car body. That's all that can be said about such a device as a voltage regulator relay. Its price in stores is 250-300 rubles, and this is not very much, considering that it comes with a brush assembly.
A built-in or remote regulator is one of the main components of the generator, ensuring stable operation of the entire vehicle power supply system. In some cases, it is useful to install an external regulator if overcharging or other difficulties are observed. Learn how to properly connect remote-type relays.
Remote controller
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This often happens to drivers. The brushes of the generating device burn out. The regulator is built in along with the brushes. We have to change everything together. And here’s some advice from experts: it’s better to install an external regulator than a built-in one. The models released recently have not been praised very much.
Okay, do you think I’ll install an external one, but how do I connect it? It turns out that there is a convenient scheme that makes it easy to carry out all this modernization.
Some important points:
- do not confuse the chips on the regulator numbered 67 and 15 (the first should be connected to the generating device, and the second should go to the fuses);
This is what the connection diagram looks like
In the lower photo we see a diagram that shows the connection of the already built-in regulator relay.
It is suitable for connecting to “fives”, “sevens”, VAZ 2104, if the PG is installed from a VAZ “kopek”. As you can see, the remote-type regulator relay is connected via two terminals. Pin 15 goes to the fuse.
The second pin 67 is connected to the generator. The wire is connected to the brush chip.
Also, the remote-type relay must be connected to ground - any part of the body.
A relay is nothing more than a switch that serves to close and disconnect individual zones of an electrical circuit that occur at specific electrical values. A machine relay is otherwise called a load voltage switch, and this is 100 percent true. When the power supply unit, fan or starter consumes more current than necessary, the relay trips.
The relay consists of an electric type magnet, an armature and a switch. In this case, the electromagnet is a cable twisted around an inductor with a magnetic rod, and the armature is a special plate that controls the contacts.
As soon as electrical voltage passes through the magnet winding, an electric field is created. A special pusher presses the armature against the core and, thereby, the contacts switch.
Attention. There are two types of relays used on VAZ cars. This is a non-contact relay-regulator and MER (electric). It is the diagram of the last relay that is shown in the picture below.
The non-contact relay or NERR is a fairly new unit that does not require any additional adjustments or regulation. As for the MED, this is an old-style device, the production of which has currently been suspended.
So, the BRN or built-in regulator is a device consisting of a microcircuit, a transistor and a housing with brushes. If the built-in regulator fails, it is replaced with a new one, or an external one is installed.
The external regulator is easy to install if you strictly follow the instructions.
Modernization involves dismantling and disassembling the generating device.
GU or generator
The generator in any automotive electrical circuit performs the dominant functions. The normal functioning and operation of the machine depends on it. Reliable PG is installed in all foreign cars and models of the domestic automobile industry.
For example, a GU is placed on the “six”, the charge of which satisfies the need for electricity of any standard component. If you do not overload the generating device of the “six”, then the car is capable of driving many, many more kilometers. However, it is important to carry out preventive procedures in a timely manner - monitor the belt tension and the condition of the brushes.
The GU is connected according to the classical scheme. Using the VAZ 2106 generator as an example, let’s consider its functioning. This GU is marked as G-221. It is an AC synchronous electric machine with ELMG excitation. A VB (rectifier) with 6 diodes is built inside the GU.
| 1 | generator rotor winding |
| 2 | generator |
| 3 | generator stator winding |
| 4 | generator rectifier |
| 5 | accumulator battery |
| 6 | ignition switch |
| 7 | battery charge indicator lamp |
| 8 | battery warning light relay |
| 9 | fuse box VAZ -2106 |
| 10 | throttle |
| 11 | temperature compensation resistor |
| 12 | additional resistors |
| 13 | voltage regulator |
A simple and understandable scheme that does not require any subtleties or specific knowledge. On the “six” the PG is located on the engine on the right. It is attached to the tension bar with a nut and to the bracket with its claws.
As you can see, the diagram shows an external regulator. It is marked with the number 13. The generator is indicated with the number 2, the fuse box is indicated with the number 9.
Separately, I would like to consider the relay, which plays an important role in the “six” generator circuit. First of all, it serves to provide information to the driver about the charging status. As is known, it is created by a generating device.
The relay is made on the same principle as all devices that function according to the same properties. The connection is made to terminal 30 of the generator. A separate wire goes through the fuses to the 3Z (lock).
The action of the relay boils down to the following: as soon as the voltage of the BS decreases (falls below the 12-volt value), the relay contacts open, the indicator is activated, giving a sign to the driver.
- as soon as the key is turned into the 3Z, an electric pulse is supplied to the relay regulator through the fuse (pin 15);
- in the regulator the voltage is transformed and goes further to the positive brush of the GU;
- then, through the brush, the voltage goes to the excitation winding of the GU;
- then - to the negative brush, through which it is brought to ground.
After the relay is activated or after the normal voltage value has been reached in the BS, the GU begins to generate current with the required value. The indicator lamp goes out, and the circuit starts working in factory mode. But when the total voltage drops, the current is not enough, and the contacts open, which leads to the discharge lamp burning.
The constant switching on of the charge indicator lamp indicates that the gene is not working properly. This happens for various reasons. First, you should check the fuses: if they are active, then both relays deserve attention: the regulator and the charger. If they are also in order, then faults must be looked for in the generating device itself.
Before proceeding with replacing the relay, it is recommended to carefully check the functioning of the regulator. The car starts, the speed is kept within the range of 2500-3000 rpm. After this, you need to turn off all current consumers, except the ignition. Then you need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals.
Charging may disappear in the following cases:
- If the generator brushes are worn out.
- In case of malfunction of the generating device.
- If the charging relay is faulty.
- If the rectifier unit (diode bridge) fails.
Thus, installing an external relay-regulator instead of a built-in one will bring a lot of benefits. The fact is that modern charging systems have much more power. Thus, modern memory systems are much more complex than old-style systems.
