The process of replacing the timing belt at the fret of the grant. How many times to change the timing belt and which one is better on the grant fret Ignition installation on the grant fret 8 valve

Starting with the VAZ-2108 model, the Volzhsky Automobile Plant switched to the use of a belt drive for the gas distribution mechanism, and continues to use it on modern models, including the Lada Granta.

This type of drive has a number of advantages over a chain drive, including:

• no need for lubrication, which is why it is possible to move the timing drive to the outside of the motor;
• quiet operation and easier replacement process.

But the belt runs much less than the chain. Therefore, the basis for a long and trouble-free operation of the power plant is a timely check of the condition of the belt and its replacement.

Replacement frequency

The manufacturer's technical documentation indicates that the timing belt on the Lada Grant must be replaced every 60 thousand kilometers.

But here it is worth noting that this is a boundary value and it is better to replace it before reaching such a mileage, approximately by 50 thousand km, but there are times when the drive requires replacement by 40, or even 30 thousand km, it all depends on the quality of the belt and its working conditions.

In any case, it is better to periodically check the condition of the drive (it is recommended every 15 thousand km) and, if signs of wear are found, replace it immediately.

If this is not done, then its breakage is possible, which is fraught with serious consequences - the engine pistons collide with the open valves, leading to their damage and subsequent expensive repairs.

Design features of the drive of different motors

To understand how maintenance work is performed with a timing drive, first consider its design.

So, the drive of the gas distribution mechanism is carried out from the crankshaft. In this case, the valve timing in the engine cylinders has 4 cycles and they are performed in two full revolutions of the crankshaft.

But 2 of these cycles occur with closed valves, so the camshaft must ensure only one-time closing and opening of the valves for all 4 cycles.

Therefore, there is only one camshaft revolution per two crankshaft revolutions. Moreover, this is achieved quite simply - due to the different diameters of the drive gear pulleys.

The belt has a toothed working surface, which excludes slipping on the pulleys. In addition to transmitting force from the crankshaft, the belt performs another function - it drives the pump of the cooling system.

In this case, the drive must be constantly tensioned in order to exclude jumping of the teeth on the pulleys, therefore, a tension roller is included in its design.

This and the entire drive structure, that is, it includes only two toothed pulleys (crankshaft and camshaft), a pump gear, a tension roller and the belt itself.

All this is located on the side of the engine, not inside. But in order to exclude the ingress of dirt and technical fluids that can harm the belt, all elements are covered with protective shields.

But this describes the design of the 8-valve gas distribution mechanism, for which only one camshaft is used to drive.

But some Lada Grant models are equipped with engines with a 16-valve timing mechanism and two camshafts. But because of this, the design of the drive does not change much.

Unlike the 8-valve, there is not one, but camshafts and, accordingly, two toothed pulleys, and another roller has been added to the design - a bypass roller, which is also a support one. This is where all the differences ended.

Checking condition and tension

As already noted, so that a broken belt does not lead to serious problems, it is periodically necessary to check its condition and tension.

Checking the condition of the belt is quite simple and you can do it yourself.

To do this, unscrew and remove the protective covers of the drive, unscrew the front right wheel, engage an overdrive and turn the wheel.

The engaged gear will ensure the rotation of the crankshaft and the timing drive through the gearbox.

When rotating, carefully inspect the belt. If any defects or traces of wear are noticed on it - torn teeth, peeling of rubber from threads, cracks, significant abrasions, then the belt must be changed regardless of the mileage.

Additionally, when checking the condition of the drive, its tension should also be assessed.

Although a roller with an automatic tension is used on Grant, it is impossible to rely on the fact that it works normally, and it is better to check the tension, especially since it is performed very simply.

The belt must be taken with two fingers in the middle of the area opposite to the tension roller, that is, on the span between the shaft pulleys and turned clockwise.

Moreover, if even with significant effort it is impossible to twist it at an angle greater than 90 degrees, then the belt is tensioned normally. If it twists to a greater angle, then it is necessary to adjust its tension.

What you need to replace the belt

So, to perform the work, you will need such a tool, devices:

1. A set of open-end and ring spanners of the most common sizes;
2. Hexagon set;
3. Powerful screwdriver or mounting paddle, pry bar;
4. Special wrench for tensioning the tensioning roller or at least round-nose pliers for removing the retaining rings;
5. Marker;
6. Rags.

Naturally, a new belt of the appropriate size will be needed, as well as a new tensioner pulley, since it must be replaced along with the belt. Having prepared all this, you can proceed to disassembly.

Disassembly

The sequence of work is as follows:

Features of disassembling a 16-valve motor

As for the 16-valve engine, the disassembly sequentially is completely identical to that described, with the exception of one point - the installation of marks. Since this engine uses two camshafts, the marks must be aligned on both, while not forgetting about the marks on the flywheel.

Also, during disassembly, in addition to the tension roller, it will be necessary to dismantle the bypass roller, since it also needs to be replaced.

After removing the belt, you should also check the bearing play on the pump. If it is significant, then it is better to replace it immediately. Otherwise, it may soon fail after replacing the belt and the need to re-disassemble the drive, since the pump changes only after dismantling the drive.

Note that after removing the belt, it is important to take care not to accidentally turn one of the shafts when installing a new one.

Assembly, check

The assembly of the drive is carried out in the reverse order, but with observance of certain nuances. First, we put the tension roller in place and bait the bolt of its fastening, but do not tighten it.

In a 16-valve engine, before putting on the belt, we put both rollers in place, but unlike the tension bypass, you can immediately tighten it.

The belt is put on from the bottom up. That is, first, the belt teeth are installed on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then it is thrown onto the pump, then wound up behind the rollers, and only then is put on the camshaft pulley.

After installing the belt, it is tensioned. To do this, a special key or round-nose pliers are installed in special holes in the outer cage of the tension roller, after which it is turned clockwise until the cutout on this cage is aligned with the rectangular recess on the inner sleeve.

Holding the roller in this position, the bolt of its fastening is tightened.

Having finished tightening, we install in place the lower protective cover, washer and generator drive pulley. After that, we check the correctness of the work.

To do this, first we check the coincidence of all the marks, then we turn the crankshaft a few turns, after which we again combine all the marks. If they converge, the replacement work has been done correctly and the assembly can be continued. Here we note that a slight deviation is allowed on any marks, but no more than a couple of millimeters.

When checking the coincidence of marks on a 16-valve motor, this action should be given more attention, since there are two camshafts, and the mismatch of marks on any of them can lead to significant interruptions in the operation of the motor.

In the opinion of specialists repairing these car models, the work should be performed no later than the interval from 50 to 60 thousand, due to the presence of intermediate rollers in the drive, which can collapse from intense loads, especially since the whole process is quite simple, it is enough to purchase high-quality spare parts and necessary tools.

New Parts List and Required Tools

The gas distribution mechanism is one of the most important parts of the engine and the long trouble-free life of its parts depends on their quality, for this reason, the automaker strongly recommends purchasing only original spare parts or their certified counterparts to replace the timing belt with Lada Granta.

To complete the repair you will need:

• timing belt (ref. repair kit 174 rui);
• driving generator belt (art. 11 180 - 1041020 - 13);
• timing belt tensioner pulley (art. repair kit 174 rui);
• water pump of the cooling system (art. 2116 - 1307010 - 75);

The work on replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve Lada Granta is carried out using a standard tool and one specialized key, namely:

• open-end wrenches with a set of 10 to 19 mm;
• box end wrenches from 10 to 19 mm;
• small mount;
• Screwdriver Set;
• a specialized wrench for adjusting the force of the timing belt tensioner;
• protective gloves for hand safety.

If you have this tool and new spare parts, you can start troubleshooting the problem as in car services licensed by VAZ, in which the price for replacing the Lada Granta timing belt is about 5-7 thousand rubles in the fall of 2018. Small private workshops take from 2 to 3 thousand for this, and if the car owner wants to save money, then you can carry out all the repairs yourself, for which you need to study the instructions below, or carefully read the video on replacing the Lada Granta timing belt, the link to which is posted at the end of the article.

Self-repair steps

We begin independent work on replacing the timing belt with a Lada Granta by placing the machine in a spacious room. Having carefully studied the instructions on how to fix the car, we perform the following steps:

1. We turn off the on-board power supply by removing the terminals from the battery
2. Using a jack, raise the front right wheel, remove it and also dismantle the plastic wheel arch liner
3. We find the crankshaft sensor (DPKV) located at the bottom of the engine crankcase, unfasten the connector from it and unscrew the mounting bolt, carefully take it out (this will help to avoid accidental damage).

   

4. We proceed to remove the old drive belt of the generator, for which we loosen the fastening of the tension bar and move the generator to the crankcase with a mount, after which the belt is freely removed.
5. We remove the protective plastic casing of the gas distribution system by unscrewing the four screws of its fastening located on the sides and setting the marks on the upper and lower gears until they fully coincide with the risks on the motor case.

   

6. Having set the marks, we fix the correct position of the crankshaft with a screwdriver, this is done through a special hole on the crankcase of the engine flywheel after removing the plug, and then unscrew the front pulley 17 mm. key.

   

7. Using a 15 mm spanner spanner, loosen the central bolt of the tensioning mechanism, remove the old timing belt, unscrew all the roller mounting bolts and remove it.
8. We proceed to dismantle the old water pump (this process may not be carried out, but experts recommend changing the pump together with the gear drive in order to avoid its imminent failure), for which we unscrew three fastening bolts with a 13 mm wrench.
9. Instead of the old roller of the tensioning mechanism and the pump, we install new parts, then we check the previously set marks on the gears of the crankshaft and camshaft, which could have shifted slightly during the dismantling work, and put a new gear drive on them.
10. We put on a new belt. We take out the screwdriver fixing the crankshaft from the flywheel housing, and slightly turn the lower gear clockwise (by about 2 - 3 mm), thereby removing the tension slack. Further, using a specialized wrench, we bring the tension roller to the required position, otherwise the gas distribution mechanism drive may be overly tensioned, which will lead to its early breakage.
11. At the last stage, we assemble all the units in the reverse order, pour antifreeze into the engine, remove the car from the jack and start it, listening to the engine, which should work smoothly and not emit extraneous noise.

Also watch the video, which shows in more detail how to replace the timing belt on the Lada Garant:

Replacing the timing belt Lada Granta 8 valves is required every 75 thousand kilometers. If you ignore the planned replacement of the belt, tension roller and sometimes the pump (coolant pump), then you can run into a serious repair of the Lada Granta engine. After all, a break in the timing belt almost always leads to damage to valves, valve seats and even pistons. Therefore, the timing drive must be treated very carefully. Once 15 thousand, it is imperative to inspect the belt for breaks, cracks, delamination or oiling.

The advice applies to VAZ-, 11186 and 21116 engines. All of them are 8-valve and are installed in Grant cars. Consider the replacement steps.

First, remember a simple rule: the 11183 engine cannot bend its valves, so you can rotate the crankshaft and the camshaft pulley separately. For motors 11186 and 21116, this would be unacceptable!

Detailed diagram of the timing drive Lada Granta

1 - toothed pulley of the crankshaft 2 - toothed pulley of the coolant pump 3 - tension roller 4 - rear protective cover 5 - toothed camshaft pulley 6 - timing belt A- lid on the rear protective cover V- mark on the camshaft pulley WITH- mark on the cover of the oil pump D- mark on the crankshaft pulley. Before carrying out any work, disconnect the battery terminal (key for 10), as well as the DPKV sensor. But first you need to remove the protective cover.

To remove protection you need: 11186/21116 - using the "internal hex by 5", unscrew 4 bolts on the upper part, which is then removed. And the bottom part is also dismantled; 11183 - use a 10-point wrench to unscrew the 3 fastening bolts. Coping with what was said above will not be difficult.

The crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) is disconnected from the connector (see photo). Then the fastening screw is unscrewed with a 10 key. The sensor itself must be dismantled.

Installation of all shafts by marks

First check that the gear is in neutral. There is a rubber cover on the crankcase housing closer to the clutch assembly. It needs to be removed.

The point is to achieve alignment of the marks on the flywheel and in the scale slot. When this is done, the flywheel is fixed with a screwdriver.

Of course, such an operation is easier to perform together. Be aware that the alignment of marks A-B and C-D corresponds to the desired shaft position (see fig.).

The crankshaft itself must be rotated to the right using the "17" or "19" key (motor 11183). The meaning of what was said is illustrated in the photo.

The alternator belt must be removed. The generator belt closes access to the timing drive parts. You will have to loosen the fastener and remove this belt.

With a key "13" loosen the lower mounting bolt. Then unscrew the top fixing nut and remove the bolt. The generator casing is pressed against the engine and the structure is fixed with wire. The belt can now be removed. The installation of the generator belt is carried out in the following sequence: 1 ... Fix the generator; 2 ... Throw the belt over the pulleys, as shown in the photo;

3 ... Having turned on the 5th gear, they roll the car back.

Be aware that reusing the alternator belt is a last resort. Better to buy a new part.

Replacing the timing belt

Let the engine flywheel be correctly installed and secured (see above). Then, using the key "17" or "19" (ICE 11183), unscrew the screw holding the generator drive pulley. The pulley itself and the protective washer are then removed.

The pulley should not interfere

Now you need to weaken the downforce in the tension roller: 11186/21116 - using the "round" key "15", unscrew the mounting bolt by 2-3 turns. The roller will "release" the belt automatically;

Automation will work on weakening

11183 - using the “17” wrench you need to loosen the fastening nut. Then the roller itself is rotated clockwise. It remains to perform a replacement: a new part is installed in place of the old timing belt, and that's it. Installation of the remaining parts is carried out in the reverse order.

Basic replacement operation

To increase the downforce, the outer roller assembly is rotated counterclockwise. For 11186/21116 motors, an additional requirement must be fulfilled: the two rectangular marks must match.

Mandatory requirement for motors 11186/21116

When editing is complete, marks A-B and C-D must also match. The drawing for them is given above.

Tightening torques

To carry out the installation correctly, you need a wrench with a force regulator. The value on it is set depending on the type of part: Tension roller fastening screw (11186/21116) - 17-27 N * m; Roller fastening nut (11183) - 30–36 N * m; Alternator pulley fasteners - 105-110 N * m. First, the tension is set on the roller, and then the fastening nut or bolt is tightened. Details from the VAZ catalog Let's immediately consider the list of units and special tools VAZ: Tension roller for internal combustion engine 11183 - 2108-1006120, nut for it - 00001-0021647-21; Timing belt (11183) - 2108-1006040-10; Automatic tension roller - 21116-1006226; Timing belt (11186/21116) - 21116-1006040; Auto roller key - 67.7812.9573-01; The key for the VAZ-11183 roller - 67.7834.9525. The tensioner roller of the 2108 family has two slots on one side. These slots should point "up", that is, away from the engine.

The slots were made for special tools. It is designated by the numbers "67.7834.9525" (see the list). And for automatic rollers, the key is designated differently - "67.7812.9573". How it looks is shown below.

The automatic roller can also be adjusted

It remains to list how the fastening bolts, washers and so on are indicated: Three bolts for the VAZ-11183 cover - 00001-0009024-11, washers - 00001-0026406-01; Timing drive cover (11183) - 21080-1006146-10; Bolts from VAZ-21116 covers - 2108-1003286-00, spring washers - 00001-0011977-73; The top cover is 21116-1006226-00, the bottom cover is 21116-1006218-00. We hope there will be no questions here. Imported analogs Different accessories are suitable for replacing the 2108-1006040-10 belts: GATES - 5521 or 5521XS; BOSCH - 1 987 949 095; DAYCO - 94089; CONTITECH - CT527; Finwhale - 2108-1006040. The timing belt "21116-1006040" can be replaced with another part: GATES - 5670XS; CONTITECH - CT1164; QUARTZ (Germany) - QZ-5670XS. Usually the choice is made in favor of GATES products. The letters "XS" in her catalog stand for "reinforced".

Attention! Components from GATES (England) are most often counterfeited! From the photo you can understand what the main difference is. Beware of counterfeits.

Timing Belt Replacement Video Grants

In today's test, we will focus on the most important drive in a car - the timing drive, or timing. We will test timing belts for the most popular car on the Russian market - Lada Granta with an 8-valve 21116 engine and its modifications (a round-toothed belt with 113 teeth and a width of 17 mm).

The tests will take place in two stages: bench and resource.

The first is divided into several tests, but the results of the resource test will be known only by the end of the summer. So, let's see.

During a search in stores, it turned out that in our region you can buy this belt from only three manufacturers: ContiTech, Gates and Trialli.

The first two belts can be purchased separately, only the Trialli is sold as a tensioner pulley repair kit.

Continental CT 1164

Producer: ContiTech Antriebssysteme GmbH (Germany)

Price: 800 rubles

Belt in branded cardboard packaging, on the box - a sticker with a QR code. The kit contains a sticker indicating the date of replacement and mileage, as well as which of the nodes - the roller, belt, pump - were replaced. It is convenient: you will not need to suffer to remember when the last belt change was made and what exactly was replaced. On the belt, in addition to brand and general designations, a batch number is applied.

Gates 5670XS

Producer: Gates Corporation (Belgium)

Price: 1100 rubles

The belt is in a branded cardboard box, there is a QR code and a holographic sticker to protect against counterfeiting. The belt is individually numbered on the outside. The set includes a sticker for filling, where you must enter the serial number of the product, individual for each belt, and the date of replacement.

Trialli GD 790

Manufacturer: Trialli S.L.R (Italy, developed under the supervision of Carville LLC in China)

Set price: 1900 rubles (1000 rubles + 900 rubles video)

The belt is sold only as a repair kit along with a tension roller, the whole kit is packed in a cardboard box with a plastic insert inside. The belt comes with a sticker with the mileage and date of replacement, as well as a warranty card with instructions on how to replace the belt - this is a plus.

Test procedure

Strength tests of belts were carried out in the testing laboratory of PJSC NPO Zavod Volna on tensile testing machines R-10 and MR-05.

Frost resistance and endurance tests were carried out in the testing laboratory of NPO Talis.

The testing of the timing belts was carried out in accordance with TU 38.1051912-90 "Toothed belts with a parabolic tooth profile for engines of VAZ vehicles". The factor of the parabolic profile standard for belts with a rounded profile in this case is not significant, since the tested belts are actually intended for the good old "eight" engine, which means that the forces transmitted by the timing belt remained at the same level.

The first test was the bending resistance of the belts. This test uses a smooth pulley with a diameter of 50 mm. One belt of each type undergoes an artificial aging procedure, which is carried out as follows: the belt is placed in a heat chamber with a temperature of 120 degrees and kept for 70 hours. The other belt is frozen together with the pulley at -45 degrees for 24 hours.

After the belts are taken out, and they are bent over a smooth pulley with teeth outward 180 degrees. Breaks and cracks are not allowed in the bend zone. The frozen belt is bent on the pulley previously cooled with the belt.

All belts passed this test.

At the next stage, we checked the strength properties of the belts.

First, the belts were tested for breaking force. According to the standard, the minimum belt breaking strength should be at least 8 kN / cm for a new belt and 7 kN / cm for a belt that has undergone artificial aging. Thus, with a belt width of 17 mm, the minimum breaking force should be at least 13,600 N, and for artificially aged ones - at least 11,900 N.

This test is carried out as follows: the belts are installed with their teeth outward on smooth cylindrical pulleys and stretched at a speed of 50 ± 15 mm / min until rupture on a R-10 tensile testing machine.

The results of tensile tests are given in Table 1.

As can be seen from the test results, all belts have a good margin of cord strength (1.43 to 1.8 before aging and 1.68 to 2.1 after aging). Continental CT 1164 belts have the strongest cords: they can withstand loads of up to 2.5 tons.

But in a belt, the strength of the cord is not the most important indicator. Therefore, as a second strength test, the tooth resistance to tearing of new belts and artificially aged ones was checked. This indicator should be at least 92 kgf for every centimeter of belt width - both new and old. Knowing that the width of the tested belts is 17 mm, we obtain a force of 156.4 kgf.

This test is carried out using a special tool that has a toothed pulley with a tooth profile that matches the belt being tested. The device contains a calibration spring, which presses the belt through the metal plate to the toothed pulley with the required force, in our case it is 119 N. The belt is cut, one end is installed in the device so that the fifth tooth from the top of the cut belt falls into the pulley slot. The lower end is fixed in the clamp, and the tensile testing machine MP-05 pulls down on it.

The results of this check are shown in Table 2.

On the new belts, the cut of the teeth did not occur: the rubber is still plastic, the tooth simply deforms and jumps over. But in aged belts on their "strengthened" teeth there is a cut of the tooth - this is what happened with the Continental CT 1164 and Trialli GD 790; Gates 5670XS had a tooth deformity and jumped over. The test results show that all belts have a good shear strength (from 1.95 to 2.43 before aging and from 2.1 to 2.51 after aging). The most resistant to a cut of the tooth was the timing belt from Trialli.

Some may find it strange that the strength increases after artificial aging. This is due to the properties of heat-resistant rubbers, which are used to make belts: with prolonged heating, their internal bonds are strengthened.

According to statistics, replacing the timing belt tension rollers occurs more often than replacing the belt itself. Therefore, it is worthwhile to periodically listen to if there is any noise from the rollers, because a failed roller will ruin the timing belt, no matter how good it is, which can lead to expensive engine repairs.

Resource test

To determine the resource of belts, there are special stands, one of which is located in the laboratory of NPO Talis LLC. This stand completely repeats the geometric arrangement of the nodes (pulleys and belt tension rollers) that come into contact with the drive belt when working on the engine, more precisely, when creating this stand, standard nodes were used, which are installed on internal combustion engines manufactured by VAZ. The stand is universal and provides for the possibility of installing belts that are used for both 8-valve and 16-valve engines of front-wheel drive vehicles produced by Avtovaz. Also, by replacing the pulleys, it becomes possible to test belts with both a trapezoidal tooth shape and a semicircular one.

The belt is driven by a toothed pulley that rotates a 7.5 kW electric motor - it acts as a crankshaft, forcing all drive units to rotate using a timing belt. The belt is tensioned with a standard timing belt tension roller. The role of the camshaft is performed by an electric brake, which, when braking, creates a resistance of 27.5 N / m - this is a five-fold overload of the force that, during normal operation, transfers the timing belt in an 8-valve engine. Thus, we turn every hour of belt runtime at the stand into five hours of work on the car.

According to the test method TU 38.1051912 "Toothed belts for VAZ engines", the belt must run at least 100 hours, which turns into 500 hours of operating time during normal engine operation. For a complete imitation of working conditions, the space in which the timing belt operates is closed with a casing with thermal insulation installed in it, and the working area is heated to a temperature of +90 degrees - this requirement is not required by the TU, nor in any of the test methods known to us, but we decided complicate the job for the belt. When braking, the electromagnetic brake converts all the incoming rotational energy into heat and requires cooling, therefore an autonomous pressure cooling system is organized for the electric brake, which takes up no less space than the stand itself.

Test results

None of the timing belts we tested brought any surprises - all honestly worked the prescribed 100 hours at the stand. Upon examination after testing each timing belt, no damage was found that could indicate the imminent failure of any of the belts.

What's the bottom line?

According to the results of bench tests, it was not possible to identify a clear leader: in the tensile test, Continental turned out to be the winner, Trialli passed the tooth resistance test best of all. One way or another, all three subjects successfully passed the tests, showing good safety margins, which are almost twice the factory parameters. By the way, the Chinese belt did not yield to European counterparts, and even surpassed them in the tooth shift test. Any of the tested belts can be safely put on the car.

Continental CT 1164

The strongest cord of all belts we tested: the belt can lift a load of 2.5 tons - this is the weight of a good SUV. But at the same time, the resistance of the tooth to shear is slightly lower than that of the others (it exceeds the standard by 1.95 times), however, the cost of the belt in retail is lower than that of competitors.

Gates 5670XS

The most expensive belt, perhaps, is due to the fact that it is installed at the car plant to drive the gas distribution mechanism as a regular one. The smallest cord breaking force - 19500 N without aging and 20,000 N after (exceeds the standard by 1.43 times), the force on cutting the tooth is average among the subjects.

Trialli GD 790

The undoubted disadvantage of this belt is that it cannot be bought separately, without the rollers that come with it from the manufacturer. And together with the rollers, its cost rises to 1900 rubles. This belt has an average breaking force of 19,700 N without aging and 21,000 N after, but it turned out to be the most high-torque of all: one tooth will withstand a displacement force of up to 380 kgf.

In the timing unit, which is possessed by the motors of 8 valves of the domestic Lada Granta, the drive belt has a significant role to play - to be a connecting element between the two main shafts: the camshaft and the crankshaft. This type of rotation transmission has a slightly lower noise effect in comparison with the chain version of the drive, implemented on the outdated "classic". And everyone knows that a timing belt replacement is required.

The process of breaking off this "consumable" is always accompanied by the destruction of its integrity. This malfunction leads to an inevitable collision of the valves with the pistons. As a result of this "interaction", the valves are bent, signaling the owner about the arrival of an unpleasant event - the need to repair the motor.

The most effective way to prevent the negative consequences caused by a broken belt will be its timely replacement of the timing belt with a high-quality analogue. At the same time, we note that replacing the timing belt is quite feasible with your own hands.

Lada Grant motors, having the index "11183", in contrast to analogue units, will require replacement of the element in question already by 60 thousand km of the covered path. This interval is the vehicle manufacturer's recommended guidelines. To maximally protect yourself and your "iron horse", you should resort to replacing no later than 40-50 thousand km. It is with this mileage that the primary signs of wear on the pump (coolant pump) and rollers appear.

Among the most common causes of belt breakage is not only wear of the complete structure of the element (rubber and cords), but also jamming of the rollers or the bearing of the pump of the cooling circuit.

Tools

If the belt has become unusable and further movement of the Lada Granta in version 8 valves is impossible, then in order to replace the timing belt, and even with our own hands, we need such a set of tools and other devices:

• keys having dimensions "10" and "17";
• mount (scapula);
• a special key that allows you to adjust the tension roller.

The instruction below shows the process on an 8 valve motor. For the 16-valve version, the process is almost identical to that shown.

Preparatory stage

Before replacing the timing belt with your own hands, be sure to remove the terminals from the supplying battery. We also dismantle the belt that activates the generator. "Operation" will require maximum access to the attachments included in the timing unit. To do this, remove the wheel and the protective shield. We install the piston of the 1st "boiler" in the well-known position - TDC.

Alternator pulley: how to unscrew the main screw?

It is possible to unscrew the fixing bolt of the alternator pulley by using an ordinary key (specified in the list). If there is difficulty in this action, we use this method:

• dismantle the plug located on the viewing window of the clutch housing of the transmission unit;
• we find the flywheel teeth and use a large screwdriver and a pry bar (in the list) to jam them (this prevents the motor shaft from turning and allows the “boring” bolt to be unscrewed by applying increased force).

Dismantling

To implement this procedure, it is required to loosen the fixing nut of the roller tensioning the belt branch in LADA Granta. This will cause the entire belt to weaken, and therefore, it can be removed from the timing unit. It is not recommended to use the usual cutting of the belt without loosening the tensioning element. This manipulation will not allow you to effectively hang the new consumable component on the pulley and shaft gear.

Algorithm

1. Dismantle the pulley. The element itself on the shaft of the LADA Granta generator in the version of 8 valves, is removed after removing the fixing blade from the indicated window. The pulley is completely removed and set aside.
2. We dismantle the lower safety cover on the timing elements. It is fixed with three bolts, which are subject to unconditional (usually problem-free) loosening. This design (shield) is endowed with some versions of motors, for example, "11186".
3. Remove the belt. This final process in the dismantling "epic" involves the following manipulations:

• initial removal from the gear fixed to the camshaft;
• subsequent dismantling from the pulley, the owner of which is the crankshaft.

It is the last (of the indicated methods) action that implies the logical possibility of the subsequent removal of the tensioner - this is the timing roller in the LADA Granta car. The timing roller itself must be replaced without any alternative, regardless of the amount of backlash, noise and other criteria.

The Importance of Correct Mounting and Tension Adjustment

We install the belt using the correct and well-known algorithm for alternating its attachment to the pulleys. Until it is necessary to install the safety shield on the Lada Granta, we perform the procedure for correctly adjusting the degree of belt tension.

It is the correct adjustment of the tension level that is an essential guarantee of ensuring a long service life of the belt (up to the expiration of the recommended replacement interval - 50 thousand km).

About other reasons for belt breaks

In the form of all sorts of reasons leading to an unexpected break of the belt, it is possible to single out the inappropriate quality of the material used in the production of both the belt itself and other elements of the timing unit. This fact makes a large army of owners of practical Lada Granta tend to purchase components and consumable items only of original production or analogues produced by eminent brands. Among such alternative options there are products manufactured by the manufacturer Gates, which is popular among Grantavodov. The belt where the timing roller from the specified manufacturer has gained enviable popularity among buyers, especially since its resource can approach the critical value of the periodic mileage of 60 thousand km, which is strongly discouraged.

Conclusion

Do not neglect the recommended interval for replacing the elements of the gas distribution unit indicated here, the value of which is equivalent to a mileage of 50 thousand km. The timing belt must be replaced in a timely manner. Use only high-quality "consumables" from renowned manufacturers, and what is important, purchased from trusted trading entities. These simple measures will avoid such a costly and unnecessary procedure as repairing the Lada Grant engine.