The presence of malfunctions in the operation of the steering, as well as the failure of the brake system, can entail a threat to safety in the movement of the car. The use of hydraulic boosters and rack and pinion mechanisms in many passenger cars can significantly improve machine control and reduce the list of malfunctions to a minimum.
The knocking problem on the steering wheel can be in the shock absorbers or bolts.
What are the steering problems?
Practice shows that the most common and typical malfunction is the wear of the ball joints of the steering rod ends.
But besides this, there are other problems:
- Development (wear) of rack and pinion elements.
- Violation of the tightness of connections, hoses and the system as a whole.
- Worn or defective steering shaft bearings.
In cars that are equipped with a power steering, there may also be problems with the power steering:
- Clogged system.
- Destruction or wear of the vane pump shaft bearing.
- Leakage of connections and hoses.
- Weak drive belt tension.
- Low or leaking oil in the expansion tank.
Quite a common problem for motorists when a knock, click or crunch is heard when turning the steering wheel. It can knock constantly, or maybe only after a long parking lot. Such a nuisance can even happen to those motorists who monitor the condition of the car and replace worn parts in time. This symptom should be taken seriously and the damage should be repaired as soon as possible.
On the video: Knock when turning the steering wheel - CV joint or triship - grease came out
Possible causes and methods to eliminate knocking
- The ball joint fails. It must be replaced, as it may burst and the car will have to be dragged on a tow truck (the wheel will be turned unnaturally inward or outward and it will be impossible to drive).
- The grenade fails... Moreover, when turning to the left, the right grenade is loaded and vice versa. Accordingly, if a knock is heard when turning the steering wheel to the left, change the right grenade.
- Worn stabilizer bushings may knock or squeak... The problem can be easily solved: sprinkle silicone grease on the bushings. The rubber will become more elastic and squeaks or knocks will disappear.
- Knocking may occur if the steering rack is faulty or weakened.... At the same time, it can give off vibration to the steering wheel. It is necessary to tighten the rail fasteners or diagnose the rail at the service station, and repair or replace spare parts.
- Engine crankcase bolts may loosen... Although this is rare, an unrecognized problem can bring a lot of frustration. The solution is to simply tighten the bolts. If the threads of the bolt break, replace the bolt. You may need to renew the thread with a tap.
- If a knock appears after changing a wheel, then a possible cause of the knock will be wheel bolts not fully tightened. Over time, vibration is added to the knocking. The problem is solved in a minute - by tightening the bolts to the required effort.
- A cracked or burst spring can knock. Unfortunately, the quality of spare parts in recent years has posed such a problem for motorists. The solution is to replace the cracked spring.
- Worn or leaking shock absorbers when turning the steering wheel to the right or left, they can “beat off”, that is, do not hold the load and sag under the weight of the machine with a knock. The solution is to diagnose and replace the shock absorber. You can diagnose yourself. To do this, press sharply with both hands on the wing in the area of the shock absorber and also sharply release it. Observe not only when there will be a knock, but also how many hesitation does the car make after pressing on one side and on the other.
Often, motorists operating domestically produced cars are faced with a rather unpleasant problem, characterized by the occurrence of a knock at the bottom of the front of the vehicle at the moment the steering wheel is turned. The first decision that comes to the mind of a car enthusiast is to contact a specialized car service. However, it has several significant drawbacks. For example, the lack of a guarantee of a positive result or significant financial costs. That is why, we recommend that you try to figure out the problem yourself.
Causes of knocking when turning the steering wheel
So, we diagnose the knock that occurs when turning the steering wheel. To do this, we perform several preliminary manipulations:
- Rinse the front suspension components with a water jet.
- Place the vehicle on a pit or lift it up on a lift.
- Clean the joints (twists) with a stiff brush.
- Carry out a visual inspection of the front suspension components.
The following items should be included in the list of visual inspection:
- checking the attachment of the anti-roll bar;
- monitoring the condition of the support cushions of the struts;
- control of fastening of suspension elements;
- checking the condition of the silent blocks of the lever, fastening the rods, stretch marks, etc.;
- monitoring the state of the compression stroke buffer (for destruction), which can generate a knock;
- checking the degree of wear of the suspension arm pivot, lower arm connections.
The next step in determining the source that generates a knock audible when turning the steering wheel is to monitor the state of the springs. As a result of "settling", deformation or breakage of the spiral turns, a clearly audible dull knock appears.
Another reason for the occurrence of knocking in the area of the front suspension of the vehicle may be deformation or insufficient attachment of the plastic protection of the wheel arch of the car.
Unfastened fragments of protection at the moment of turning the steering wheel engage with the CV joint boot and form sounds similar to knocking. For all its insignificance, this defect requires a fairly prompt elimination, since only in this case there is confidence that it will not cause other, more serious defects. For example, attaching the arch guard directly to the bumper "skirt" makes it possible for the bumper to be damaged when the guard is deformed.
The presence of a characteristic “gurgling” knock at the moment of turning the steering wheel indicates that the permissible degree of wear of the steering rod ends has been exceeded.
Failure to take timely measures to replace worn out steering tips threatens with a chain reaction of loss of performance by the elements of the steering mechanism, which, in the worst case, will result in an accident, and at best, significant financial costs.
Attention! After replacing the tips of the steering rods, the wheel alignment is mandatory.
Another fairly common cause of knocking when turning the steering wheel is increased wear on the bearing of the (upper) strut mount. A special predisposition to this disease is observed in "Prior" and "Kalin". The solution to the problem is to replace the bearing. The positive aspect of this shortcoming is the relatively small material and time costs for its elimination.
The combination of knocking and hum, which simultaneously occur when the steering wheel is turned to the right (left), signals the loss of performance of the hub bearing of one of the front wheels of the vehicle. It should be noted that failure of both bearings at the same time is by no means a rare phenomenon. This is really serious. The complexity of the repair work lies in the need to "press out" the worn out bearing from the seat in the hub.
This diagnosis implies not only long-term, but also quite expensive "treatment", and untimely measures taken usually end in complete destruction of the front suspension elements of the vehicle.
Video - What to do if you hear a knock when turning
And, finally, the reason that the overwhelming majority of motorists have heard is damage to the constant velocity joint, or CV joint. The wear of the element itself initiates a sound that looks more like a “crackle”, but damage to the CV joint boot, which, in fact, leads to a premature failure of the hinge itself, “generates” sounds that are often mistaken for a knock. The most effective method of preventing this defect is regular (at least once a month) inspection of the condition of the anthers and immediate replacement if ruptures are found. This habit will significantly save you not only time, but also money.
At the first stage of owning a personal vehicle, the owner is mainly focused on the road situation. Over time, an understanding of certain features of your car comes. It becomes possible to independently diagnose car breakdowns (there was a knock when turning the steering wheel, for example).
Self-diagnosis: easy to master
This, of course, does not come immediately, however, with the acquisition of experience, a person with a minimal inclination to technology may well determine a number of regular breakdowns of his car. To some extent, the self-diagnosis skill is also due to the high cost of maintenance, and sometimes the incompetence of specialized personnel at the service station.
Tellingly, the ability to correctly identify car breakdowns will be useful to you in any case, regardless of the chosen car brand. First of all, it suffers - most often because of bad roads. We will try to understand the reasons for the rapid wear of the chassis of the currently popular brands. We will describe the possible options for their breakdowns, learn how to diagnose by symptoms (knock on the steering wheel when turning, for example), and also consider options for the quick and prevention of our "iron horses".
Domestic does not mean bad
It's no secret that today the most popular machines are the so-called consumer class. A rather large segment of sales in this sector is occupied by the domestic auto industry. As a rule, a consumer who has bought such a car is guided by the manufacturer's affordable pricing policy while the quality has increased almost to world standards. And so we more and more on our streets see brand new "Lada", in which we no longer even recognize the features familiar from childhood.
Almost all modern innovations available for cars of such a modest class are embodied in the new "Grandas", "Priors" and "Kalinas". However, are they reliable? The latest generation of VAZs, the famous "eights", "nines" and "tens" quite often lost in reliability and adaptability to our roads, even foreign cars of the old model. They were still bought because of the modest price, but they were still considered more as a temporary component of their lives, hoping in the near future to switch to more comfortable and reliable cars of Western or Asian production.
As already noted, most often in modern road realities a car breaks down. Is it reliable in modern VAZs? The answer is unequivocal: yes. Engineers and designers have tried to make life easier for the modern driver.
Repair is expensive
However, harnessing innovation and increasing reliability also has a downside. Modern mechanisms are much more difficult to repair (and this is not only about technology, but also about money). And although the repair of the "running" VAZ, of course, cannot be compared with the repair of a similar Western product, but not a trace of the former cheapness remained.
Based on this sad fact, the financial risks of a modern driver who chooses a product from a domestic manufacturer or an imported car differ significantly. Consequently, the value of self-diagnosis of car malfunctions has increased significantly, at least as common as knocking on the steering wheel when turning.
Knocks on the steering wheel - what to do?
Believe me, if you clearly define what is wrong with your car, you will spend a lot less money on a service station. The reason is trivial: you don't have to pay for what you don't need (but what they might try to impose on the service station).
So let's take a look at the situation. You went to the sea (to the mountains, out of town - it doesn't matter) and heard a knock when you turn the steering wheel (your Priora is relatively new!) Do not rush to go to the service immediately. Try to figure out the problem yourself. The set of standard and non-standard situations for such breakdowns is rather limited.
Let's consider the main options. The most common critical situations are related to the steering gear. The first thing to determine is the nature of the knock. It can be "plastic" and "metal".
Loose plastic protection
If at a sharp turn of the steering wheel the knock is similar to the rubbing of plastic, almost 100% with the car everything is fine. As a rule, such sounds are emitted by a poorly fitted wing protection. When the front wheels are everted, we very often touch and slightly deform the plastic locker. It is he who makes such unpleasant, but rather safe sounds.
However, do not ignore this at all. The fact is that the plastic protection is attached directly to the "skirt" of the front bumper. And if it is completely deformed, it is possible that one fine day, at the next turn, you will simply rip it out (and damage the bumper at the same time). Therefore, it is better not to rely on "chance", but to adjust the protection.
When to replace parts
The situation is much more serious if the knock when turning the steering wheel is more like a metal crackle or rattle. This means that in the near future you will face significant financial costs. And in order to reduce them, you need to figure out the reasons yourself.
When there is a "gurgling" knocking noise when turning the steering wheel, the simplest explanation for this is the wear of the ends of the steering rods. Quite an unpleasant phenomenon that requires attention. After all, if the process of wear continues, the entire steering mechanism may fail, and as a result - expensive repairs, and maybe even an emergency on the road. The repair is not very expensive, although the tips are usually changed in pairs - on both sides of the car. The main difficulty lies in the subsequent work on the collapse-convergence.
Another fairly common problem when a knock appears when turning the steering wheel ("Kalina" or "Priora" are susceptible to this "sore), is associated with wear of the bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut. The disease is unpleasant, but quite easily eliminated. The bearing itself is not very expensive, and the work on its replacement will not take much time.
From a broken spring to replacing shock absorbers
A rather unpleasant knock when turning the steering wheel is emitted by bursting springs. The repair is associated with the disassembly and, as a result, the possible replacement of the same bearing of the upper support. It should be noted that in the event of an incorrect diagnosis or other reason why you cannot carry out this repair, the consequences for you will be very serious. A broken spring will not be able to take on the part of the load that it experiences when the vehicle is swinging vertically. In this regard, there is an additional effect on which can lead to a breakdown. But this is already a full-fledged repair of the front suspension of your car. It is not difficult to calculate the financial losses in this case. You will have to buy not only new springs, but also new shock absorbers, which in most cases are changed in pairs.
If the knock when turning the steering wheel to the right or left is also accompanied by a hum, this is a direct consequence of the failure of the front wheel hub bearing. Sadly. The complexity of the repair consists in pressing the old bearing out of the hub (a very time-consuming and expensive operation). Such a breakdown can be “lethal” for all front- and all-wheel drive cars. In case of complete wear of the hub bearing, the front suspension may be destroyed and - God forbid, of course! - emergency situation on the road.
How to diagnose CV joint wear
Let's move on to the main and most serious noise that you can hear: knocking when you turn the steering wheel (it's Kalina or Priora - it doesn't matter) in one direction or another. Metal crackling with a full eversion of the steering wheel indicates the failure of the CV joint or, as it is also called by the people, "grenades". When a crack is heard from both the right and left, it means that both of your "grenades" must be replaced. If, when you turn the steering wheel to the left, a knock is heard from the same side, you know exactly which part is more worn out.
The situation with the failure of CV joints, as a rule, is associated with damage to the rubber boot, which protects the metal case of this mechanism. Even a small gap can lead to replacing one of the most expensive parts in your car's chassis. Therefore, once a month it is better to check the anthers of both "grenades" for damage.
Monthly noise prevention
Noise and crackling on VAZs can occur due to the weakening of numerous threaded connections. These are easily diagnosed moments and equally easily eliminated. The main thing is not to panic, but to get on a good lift or "hole" in the garage. Then, armed with the correct size wrench, simply tighten up any loose or knocking connections, including the wheels of your car.
Foreign brand does not guarantee the absence of breakages
The situations described above are typical not only for Russian cars. In principle, an expensive foreign car is not insured against this either. The whole question is how often this will happen.
As already noted, the quality of cars produced in Russia has improved significantly. This applies to both truly Russian VAZs and cars produced by us under license. The percentage of factory defects has been significantly reduced: a knock when turning the steering wheel ("Logan", for example, is going to be in Russia) will not appear immediately. And it is quite possible to avoid such situations. Experts advise every six months to undergo the necessary diagnostics at specialized service stations, without leading to the notorious "knocks and crackles" in the chassis.
In addition, given the not always high-quality road surface, it is necessary to observe the speed limit and take safety measures to cross difficult or simply bad sections. If these simple recommendations are followed, your car will serve you for many years without any breakdowns, and funds that were not spent on vehicle repairs can be used for something else.
Often motorists are interested in why clicks are heard when turning the steering wheel in motion. This is a fairly common problem. Basically, this applies to cars with a steering rack. Many drivers simply do not pay attention to this problem. Which in many cases leads to serious problems with the steering rack. Therefore, when symptoms appear, you need to diagnose as quickly as possible and eliminate the malfunction. Until it led to more expensive repairs. For diagnostics, you just need to determine the place where the clicks are coming from. After that, already carry out repair work.
Why are there clicks when turning the steering wheel in motion? Let's start with the most harmless reason. In almost all cars, the turn signal lever is located on the steering wheel. There is a ring in the design of these controls that is designed to turn off the repeaters after the maneuver is completed. This ring can sometimes click when you turn the steering wheel with the turn signal not turned on. These clicks are normal. That is, if you only hear clicks near the steering wheel, you can ignore them.
Steering rack bushing
Sometimes the clicks are heard from the back of the vehicle. In some cases, there may also be a squeak. The problem is in the steering rack bushing. For a start, you can try to tighten the nut of its fastening. If this does not help, then you will have to change the bushing. To replace this penny part, you will need to remove the entire rail. Remember to check and adjust the wheel alignment after replacement.
You should not delay this work. After all, otherwise the worn out bushing will break the rail, and you will have to change everything in the assembly, which is much more expensive.
Steering diagnostics
As a rule, the steering system actively reports faults. One has only to pay attention to these signals in a timely manner. Most of the problems are easily diagnosed in a conventional garage. Let's consider the most common malfunctions and how to identify them.
Increased steering play is most common. This happens when the hinges are worn out, the worm gear engagement is disrupted. For diagnostics, it is necessary to drive the car into an inspection pit or overpass. After that, one person slowly turns the steering wheel, and the other looks at the consistency of the work of the associated parts. Sometimes you can reveal the backlash by simply moving the rail with your hands. In a normal state, the structural elements will move together. The backlash will be immediately noticeable.Quite often you can find knocks when passing small obstacles. The problem is in the ball joints. If you do not react to the problem, then soon there will be a backlash of the steering wheel. Therefore, your task at the first appearance of a knock is to inspect the hinge joint and diagnose for the presence of backlash.
Another common problem is tight steering. Sometimes it can be observed in winter. In this case, this is due to the solidification of the grease in the steering column gearbox. Usually, this sign passes after a few kilometers of travel. If the difficulty arises in the summer, and is observed not only in the cold, but constantly.
There are two reasons:
- Rack and pinion meshing problems. Check this joint. It may need to be adjusted, on some models this can be done;
- Lack of lubrication in the gearbox. Add oil. It is advisable to check for leaks;
- Sometimes this problem occurs.
