Before dealing with the topic of what a stabilizer bushing is, it would not hurt to refresh your memory about the stabilizers themselves, what are they for? The main task of this part is to keep the car as parallel to the road as possible. Despite the various risks, for example, turns, braking, which cause both lateral and longitudinal rolls. The stabilizer should cope with them.
In the photo: Honda Civic 5D stabilizer bushings
Stabilizer Bush - Yellow
At the slightest roll, the ends of the stabilizers begin to move, thereby reducing roll. The movement takes place along the bushings, which will be discussed. The purpose of the latter is that the stabilizer can twist in different directions. That is why it is fastened with bushings. Over time, the bushings are erased, which causes backlash, which will lead to malfunctioning for the entire mechanism. The so-called "freedom of detail" increases, then, by and large, there is no role in the presence of a stabilizer. Because, similar to its absence, rolls increase due to large strokes and rotation, control is lost and this is felt mostly in corners.
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There are several types of bushings:
Rubber bushings.
Polyurethane. Similar to the previous ones, except for the production material.
Recently, motorists have preferred polyurethane bushings due to their high performance characteristics. As a rule, they "walk" longer. But, this is also individual, depending on how you drive.
Also, do not lose sight of such a nuance that almost every model has its own sizes and configuration of bushings, which is why special attention should be paid to the selection and selection for a specific model. This issue is most acute for foreign cars.
What resource?
This question is quite individual, as such, no manufacturer will be able to give exact "runs". It all depends on the specific operating conditions, keep in mind that bad roads, driving style, all this affects the "life" of the bushing, and in general the stabilizer mechanism.
By the way, the bushings are considered the most problematic place in the suspension on the Lada Vesta. Almost immediately from the factory, a creak begins, and a knock is often added to it during movement over bumps. The problem is that they use not high-quality material for manufacturing, which is why the resource of the native bushings on Vesta is very small. It is simple to be treated, it is necessary to select analogs from other models. For example, it is known that bushings from Toyota Koroly, Avensis and KIA Rio are great and do not cause problems for West owners.
Lada Vesta stabilizer bushings from Kia Rio. Sleeve article - Hyundai / Kia 54812-1G100, bracket - 54814-1G000
Judging by the reviews of the drivers, the bushings of German brands, which are often installed on the "Germans" from the factory, have shown themselves well. For example, native parts can often last more than 150,000 km. At the same time, when it comes to analogs from China, the resource is reduced several times.
In general, it is generally accepted among motorists that the average "mileage" for a rubber sleeve is 70,000 km, more advanced polyurethane 100,000 km. Some manufacturers even recommend to carry out a planned replacement after 30,000 km in order to avoid the appearance of "surprises". But, as already mentioned, everything is individual, you need to take into account all the features of operation.
It is also worth clarifying such a nuance, the state of the thrust itself (stub) has a huge impact on the resource of the bushings... For example, if there is a working out at the place of attachment of the sleeve, then the declared period of time the part will definitely not serve and will not fully cope with the task either. As a rule, after replacing the native bushings, the owners observe a small production of metal, somewhere around 1.5 mm. With each replacement of the bushings, the output will only increase, so it is wiser to replace the whole part with severe wear, so that there is a sense, in general, from the operation of this mechanism.
Symptoms of malfunctions
The signs below may indicate that something is wrong with the suspension. And one of the places worth checking out is the stabilizer. So:
A slight backlash is formed when the steering wheel is turned.
The car began to "scour" while driving.
In turns from the side of the wheels, distinct clicks are heard.
The car is driving in one direction.
Vibration is felt.
How to replace?
The issue of replacement for some cars is purely individual, because depending on the model, the mounts may differ. For example, to replace the bushings with the Mazda 6 and 5 in front, you will have to remove the steering rods in order to get to the brackets securing the bar itself. But, in general, you can draw up a small work plan. So:
Raise the car on a lift or drive it into a hole for convenience.
Keep in mind that the bolts may not budge even after this. Then the "Bulgarian" comes into play. But first take care to remove the fuel hoses from the "dangerous" area. Cut off the "ears" of the staples to "release" the barbell.
After unscrewing the brackets (clamps), we sort of move the stabilizer itself away from the subframe to make it easier to remove the bushing. Use a crowbar.
We pull together the old sleeve.
Photo - Drive2.ru
We put on a new part.
Replaced the bushing
Pay attention, in most cases, the clamp on the new sleeve "sits" extremely badly, so try to position it as evenly as possible, minimize friction (use lubricant).
We tighten the clamp with a bolt. By the way, we recommend pre-treating the bolt and nut with grease, so that in the future there will be no problems with loosening.
By the way, such an important nuance during replacement. You need to change both bushings at once, that is, do not leave the old part on the right side, but install a new one on the left, for example. There should be new bushings on both sides.
The chassis in a car is such a part, certain elements of which directly ensure safety, therefore, its condition must be perfect. One of the parts of the above design is a stabilizer, which includes a so-called bushing. It is an important structural part.
There are two types of bushings: spherical and rubber. This article is presented for those whose car needs emergency technical assistance in the following areas:
Replacing the rear bushings.
Signs of wear
A spherical bushing is similar in design to a ball joint. Naturally, by analogy with the latter, it tends to wear out and, accordingly, come into an inoperative or unsuitable state for functioning. In addition, it should be noted that it is extremely unsafe to travel with worn-out (even if functional) elements of the car's chassis, and therefore, if the bushing of the anti-roll bar breaks down, it becomes necessary to replace it. In the case of a further trip with a worn-out bushing, the driver will definitely notice this, since, according to his individual feelings, driving the car will be much more difficult.
In most cases, when the stabilizer bush is worn out, certain noises are heard in the suspension area, and when the speed increases, they increase significantly, and, accordingly, while driving on road irregularities (pits and bumps), the noises acquire a clear sound in the form of bumps. And if you are an attentive driver and did not miss the extraneous sound and temporary uncontrollability of the car, then you will begin to find out the probable cause of this situation. Thus, in order not to bring the suspension and the bushing to such a state, it is necessary to carry out scheduled technical inspections of all parts of the structure, and the bushing is subject to the most thorough diagnostics.
Easy three-step process
If, according to the results of diagnostics or while driving, you concluded that the bushing has become unusable, then you should not postpone the repair. Replace it immediately. In this case, you do not even have to go to a car service for this purpose: replacing the rear stabilizer bushings, as well as the front ones, is a completely simple process, and this can be done on your own, without even resorting to the help of outsiders. Removing worn bushings and replacing them with new ones takes three steps:
- Unscrew the bolts that secure the clamp.
- Swivel the stabilizer to the side. This position makes it possible to conduct a thorough assessment of its condition and remember the features of the original internal structure in order to avoid the assumption of incorrect installation of elements after repair.
- In this situation, it is easy to remove the worn-out old bushings from the stabilizer and install new ones.
Benefits of timely replacement
Replacing the stabilizer bushings can create absolutely no difficulty for a driver who decides to make repairs on his own. All processes are fully available for manual execution, however, when there is no ability or desire to carry them out without the help of third parties, it is recommended to contact a car service. Replacing the anti-roll bar bushings will enable the car owner to protect the struts from early wear.
Driving with new bushings avoids difficulties during road traffic, especially when it comes to driving on poor-quality roads. Anyway, the new hub is a comfortable and safe auto movement.
List of required tools
You definitely need to have the following set of tools:
- new bushings;
- to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required;
- keys for 17 and 15;
- for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10;
- for fastening bolts - a key for 13;
- clamps made of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced;
- anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40;
- graphite grease;
- jack.
When planning to replace the bushings alone, it is recommended to leave marks before removing the rod. This is necessary in order to immediately install them exactly in the place where they were before, because it is extremely difficult to move new bushings along the surface of the rod due to elasticity.
For convenient installation, it is recommended to lubricate the surface inside the sleeve with a soap solution.
Step by step algorithm
Step-by-step algorithm of the process in which the anti-roll bar bushings are replaced:
The vehicle should be placed on an inspection pit or other front end lifting device.
Using a socket wrench (30), unscrew the nuts (2 pcs.) Securing the sleeve holder and the ends of the stabilizer to the suspension arms. Pry the bar with a small spatula (mounting), then remove the clip from the studs, gently pulling in the lateral direction.
Remove the rubber grommet from the rod end. Similarly, carry out the procedure from the opposite side.
Remove the stabilizer by unscrewing the nuts securing the brackets to the body side members (2 nuts on both sides).
To replace the bushings, clamp the yoke shank by means of a vise, then turn the rod and tighten the rubber bush.
Put on new bushings, while it is necessary to orient them according to the applied marks.
Carry out the next installation in reverse order.
Replacing the front stabilizer bushings is carried out in a similar process as replacing the rear ones.
Replacing the bushing on Toyota
If you plan to replace the Toyota stabilizer bush, you first need to dismantle the wheels. For this purpose, the front wheel nuts are loosened. Then you need to gradually raise it in front of the car in order to firmly install it on the axle supports. Immediately apply the handbrake and block the rear wheels to prevent the car from swaying. Detach the stabilizer post. For this purpose, an allen wrench is used to prevent the rack from turning, otherwise the ball joint can rotate together with the nut. Remove the existing bushing clamps later.
After disconnecting the stabilizer, the bushings themselves are removed, subjected to an external examination and, in the presence of defects, must be replaced with new ones, which are preliminarily recommended to be lubricated with vegetable oil on each side. Thus, assembly is much easier. It is necessary to pay attention to the cuts of the bushing, they must be turned towards the rear of the machine, and the mark, accordingly, must be on the outside. Further assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Replacing the stabilizer bushing "Kia"
Replacing the Kia stabilizer bushings involves the following algorithm:
Raise the front of the vehicle and remove the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt.
Raise the gearbox using a jack, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe.
To facilitate access to the rear cushions, four bolts are removed to secure the subframe.
Jack up the front section of the subframe.
Remove the fastener and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal.
Screw them into place only four to five turns. This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane.
Loosen the jack to a level where it is possible to reach the bushing bolts.
The bushing on the right side can be easily unscrewed through the engine compartment, and on the left side - from below.
Insert the staples. This procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage the collar on the steering boot.
The process is repeated in reverse order.
The peculiarities of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic appearance, and therefore it is installed at the last moment.
Replacing the stabilizer bush on the Nissan
It should be noted that the replacement of the Nissan stabilizer bush is carried out in the same sequence as in a similar procedure on some other passenger car.
The procedure must be carried out in a timely manner, then more complex breakdowns in the chassis of the car can be avoided.
However, as in other car models, the purpose of replacing deteriorated structural elements of car systems is to create a safe driving environment.
Broken bushings of the front anti-roll bar of Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) can hardly be called an emergency breakdown. It is their fault that the wheel will not fall off, the brakes will not disappear and the car will not lose control while driving. But, these "minor" rubber bands can provide 100% of the headache and unnecessary consumption of nerve cells. Since the knock and rumble that appears in the suspension of your car due to the fault of the "killed" stabilizer bushings will not be heard. And it is even more difficult, every time you pass even small irregularities on the road, to convince yourself that the sounds that the suspension of your car makes does not bode well. Why endure, be nervous and increase the volume of the radio tape recorder, trying to drown out extraneous sounds? It's easier to solve a problem than to put up with it. Moreover, after reading this article, you will know not only the procedure for performing the work, but also about possible unpleasant surprises that you may encounter in the process. And here you can remember the catch phrase - "Forewarned is forearmed." That is, you should not have any problems, and if they do appear, then you will cope with them successfully. Hopefully convinced. And you will read the article to the end))).
The tool needed to replace the bushings (rubber bands) of the front suspension anti-roll bar on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos). I'll start with him, since the list of instruments is small and it won't take a lot of time to compile it. What can not be said about spare parts .... But, more on that below. And so, what tool you need in this work: a spanner wrench for 13, socket heads for 13 and 14 (it will be very nice if an extended head for 13 is available), a ratchet wrench, a cardan (will significantly speed up the work), an extension cord and vernier caliper (if not available, you can use a ruler). See photo 1. This is the minimum, in the presence of which, you can replace all the front stabilizer bushings without tangible difficulties. Yes, about difficulties ... It happens and not rarely that it is impossible to unscrew the stabilizer strut nut (it has rusted well, the edges of the nut are heavily "licked") and in this case there is only one correct solution - the grinder. In its absence, you can work with a hacksaw. True, in this case, replacing only the bushings (rubber bands) is indispensable, you will have to buy an assembled stabilizer stand (which means "assembled" can be found from the paragraph below - Spare parts). And a few words about the place of work. To replace the stabilizer struts or their bushings, it will be enough to raise the required side with a jack, remove the wheel and calmly proceed to action. True, in this case, when assembling and tightening the front stabilizer struts, you will have to resort to a little trick that will allow you to do everything "according to science." But, we will talk about this in more detail a little later. But with body bushings (pillows) stabilizer, you can't figure it out without a viewing hole or a lift.
Spare parts. What details relate to front suspension anti-roll bar? I list - stabilizer struts 2 pieces (through the bar eyelet connects the stabilizer to the front suspension arm), body bushings (pillows) stabilizer 2 pieces, stabilizer mounting brackets to the body 2 pieces. It should be said right away that stabilizer struts and naturally bushings (rubber bands) of these struts on Daewoo Lanos and Daewoo Nexia cars are the same... What can not be said about body bushings (also called pillows) stabilizer... On Daewoo Nexia, the stabilizer bushings are much smaller than on Lanos. Plus, to this - stabilizer bushings for Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) cars are of two types - with lamella (new sample) and smooth (old style)... See photos 2, 3 and 4. This is worth remembering. And before going to the car market, it will not be superfluous to look under the car again and determine which stabilizer bushings (pillows) you should buy. In principle, the inner diameter of these stub bushings is the same and they are interchangeable, but only together with mounting brackets))) (photo 5). Yes, the stabilizer brackets are also not eternal, they burst regularly. Approximately as in photo 6. And in this case, a metallic clang joins the booming blows "in the chassis". So what else about the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer wanted to say ... Oh, here! Repair bushings of the stabilizer appeared on sale at the Losk car market. True, so far only in one version - smooth. With severe wear of the stabilizer (yes, this happens, especially if the car has run 300,000 km in taxi mode;)) will come in handy. See photo 7. Well, in addition, photo 8 - quite noticeable wear of the stabilizer bush (pillow))))).
So a few more words on stabilizer struts... The anti-roll bar of the front suspension of Daewoo Lanos, Daewoo Nexia, Daewoo Sens, Chevrolet Lanos consists of: four rubber bushings (1), four metal support washers (2 ), spacer sleeve (3), bolt (4) and nut (5). Photo 9. All parts of the rack wear out over time. And washers, and a spacer sleeve, and, of course, rubber bushings. I have already spoken about the rusty nut of the stabilizer strut, plus I can also add a stuck spacer sleeve to the bolt and the only way to deal with this problem is a grinder. So, taking into account all of the above, we can advise you to buy the entire rack. But, remembering about the difficult financial situation in the country and the desire of any person in such a situation to spend as little money as possible. You can try to get by only by replacing the rubber bushings - a set on two sides consists of 8 pieces and, of course, will cost five times cheaper than assembled stands. True, before making a decision, you should at least try to untwist the rack - clean the thread, spill it with oil or VD-40 and then start acting. If it works, the nut turns and the bolt turns in the spacer sleeve, and not with it, then buying only rubber bushings is your option (photo 10). If not, the nut is licked, the bolt stuck, the thrust washers are noticeably pressed, then the right decision is to buy the entire racks (photo 11). Something like this...
And at the choice of the brand of the manufacturer of spare parts... On the racks of the front stub, we can safely recommend - Febi, Ruville, Anam, CRB (factory china, very good quality). On the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer - CRB, Gumex (excellent rubber quality), FSO.
Smoothly, we turn to the description of replacing the bushings (rubber bands) of the front suspension anti-roll bar on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos):
1. If you decide to replace only the stabilizer struts or the bushings of the struts, then you do not need a viewing hole or a lift. It is enough to place the car on a level surface, put on the handbrake and speed, loosen the wheel bolts, raise the required side with a jack, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. And here it is - the stabilizer bar! As I said, be sure to clean the bolt thread from dirt and process it with VD-40, brake fluid, oil and try to unscrew the nut. To do this, you need two keys for 13. At least - one socket, and the second ring. Approximately as in photo 12. Or using two socket wrenches with an extended head (photo 13). If you can't unscrew it, but you bought the racks entirely, but you can not suffer for a long time and pick up a grinder or a hacksaw. If there are no racks in stock, then we continue to fight hard.
When the strut or stabilizer struts are untwisted, sawn and removed, you can shake the stub bar up and down. If it hangs freely, knocks, then this is a sure sign of worn out body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer. And they, if not immediately, then soon will have to be changed.
So, in the event that you decide to limit yourself to replacing the racks or their bushings, then you can start installing new parts. If you plan to replace the stabilizer bushings (pillows), then we do not rush to install the racks and read point number 3.
2. By installing stabilizer struts... Nothing complicated here, but there is a small nuance. How to make a set of stabilizer legs correctly? I do this according to the instructions given in the repair book - " The rubber bushings are projected to each other, and the thrust washers are projected to the rubber grommets ". The first option in photo 14. Some of these thrust washers are put the other way around. They say it's better. I won't argue. I don't see any serious violations in the assembly. As well as a weighty reason for discussions on this topic. But, I do it as recommended.
The strut bolt should be lubricated before installation. It is necessary to tighten the strut in the "car on wheels" position until the moment when the distance between thrust washers will not be 38 mm(photo 15). It is not difficult to do this on the inspection pit when the car is on wheels. But, if this is not possible, then you will have to pull the lever up with the help of the second jack (photo 16). Simulate the "car on wheels" position and then tighten the strut nut, observing the required distance between the washers.
3. With the body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer, everything is a little more complicated.... We drive the car into the inspection hole, if there is a protection for the engine compartment from below, then you will have to remove it. Next, we untwist the stabilizer struts (read point # 1). You can, of course, not untwist the racks. But, then the stabilizer will be clamped and tightened, which will create problems when installing the bushing, bracket and mounting bolts.
We take on the fixing bolts of the stabilizer bush brackets. On the right side, this will be much easier (photo 17). But on the left, access to these bolts will be difficult. Will come to the rescue ratchet + extension + cardan + head for 14... Here's how in photo 18. Without this tool, work will take more time and effort. In turn, on each side, unscrew the bolts, remove the brackets and change the stabilizer bushings. Install the brackets, bait the mounting bolts and tighten them, but do not fully tighten. The final tightening of the bolts of the stabilizer cushions brackets should be done only after the final tightening of the stabilizer struts (read point 2).
Look like that's it! Somehow, the bushings (rubber bands) of the front suspension anti-roll bar are being replaced on Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos). I hope I explained everything clearly and did not confuse you))).
When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!
Many different rubber gaskets and bushings are installed on automotive mechanisms for normal operation or as a connecting element. But such elements wear out rather quickly due to the increased intensity. As a result, backlash appears in them, which makes the trip by car unsafe. In addition, worn bushings can lead to more serious malfunctions.
This also applies to bushings mounted on the stabilizer. If you begin to notice noise in the car's suspension while driving, this may mean that the stabilizer bushings need to be replaced. And this applies to the replacement of the front and rear bushings. More about this and will be discussed in this article.
In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, the maximum speed of which exceeded the 20 km / h mark. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of the stabilizer is to protect the vehicle from rollover, since during a turn the load on the outer wheels increases, and on the inner wheels, on the contrary, decreases. This causes the machine to rock. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.
The stabilizer is an important part of the car's suspension.On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only in the front, but also in the back. The stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion bar is installed at the rear of the car: the stabilizer functions will be assigned to the suspension itself.
The design of the stabilizer on many cars is a U-shaped metal bar made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the shocks from various suspension elements fall on them.
What are bushings and why are they needed
The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension while driving and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. They are usually made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes during bending.
Bushings can be made from different materials Often, various sounds that occur during movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on, can indicate a malfunction of the bushings. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.
Signs of bushing wear
The design parameters of the bushing are a bit similar to those of a ball joint, only the bushing has one unpleasant feature - it wears out, as a result of which the part becomes faulty. It should also be noted that driving a car with damaged suspension elements is unsafe, so if you find a problem with the stabilizer bush, try to replace it as soon as possible. Determining the unsuitability of the bushing for the driver will not be difficult, because when driving, driving will become difficult.
In most cases, the deterioration of the stabilizer bush is accompanied by characteristic sounds in the suspension area, which increase when the vehicle is accelerated. Overcoming road irregularities (bumps, pits, pebbles on the road) makes drivers shudder from the resulting impacts in the lower part of the car. An attentive driver will immediately notice extraneous noises and slight deterioration in car handling, and will also be engaged in finding out the cause of this problem.
This is what a worn bushing looks like To prevent the bushings and suspension from being brought to this state, it is recommended to carry out regular inspections of all structural elements. In this case, it is necessary to conduct a close diagnosis of the bushing.
Diagnostics
Diagnosis of stabilizer bushings consists of two steps:
- visual assessment;
- providing mechanical impact.
It is necessary to put the car on an overpass or pit to check the rubber bands. Some people use a hoist for this purpose, but this can be dangerous. The fact is that the bushing diagnostics implies a strong jerking of the stabilizer, as a result of which the car sways and may fall. The same goes for jacks, from which the car will jump off much faster than from a lift. This can lead to the most unfortunate consequences, since the weight of the car is very heavy, and all this metal structure can crush the mechanic.
Diagnostics of the stabilizer bushings The purpose of the visual assessment is to inspect the rubber bands for tears and cracks. If at least one crack was found on at least one part, then the entire set must be changed completely. Mechanical impact requires brute male force - grasp the stabilizer next to the bushing that connects the part to the body and pull it hard in all directions. In the process, knocks or squeaks may occur. This means that the bushings need to be replaced. In the process of mechanical stress, do not be afraid to damage the stabilizer or the bushings themselves - they are designed for a heavy load, so your attempts to check the serviceability of the parts will not be able to do them any harm.
What you need to replace
You don't need a lot of tools to get the job done, but you still need to prepare them ahead of time.
To replace the stabilizer bushings you need:
- jack;
- ruler or vernier caliper;
- special extension for the key;
- ratchet wrench;
- spanner keys, one for 13, and the other for 10;
- elongated or conventional sockets (14,13).
It is worth noting that this is only a basic set of tools, in fact, others may be needed. This is due to the need to unscrew the fastening nuts when removing the stabilizer. This is the whole catch, because with a regular wrench you will not be able to unscrew the fastening nuts (during operation, they stuck to the part). In this case, many resort to emergency measures - using a hacksaw for metal or a grinder. In the process of loosening the nuts, the stabilizer struts can be damaged, so you will not be able to do with one replacement of the rubber bands.
The jack may be needed in two cases: to raise the car and to return the stabilizer bar to its original position, if you cannot do this with your hands or with the help of a crowbar. If the bar is still slightly off to the side, then raise the rear of the car. This should be enough for the part to return to its place.
Stabilizer Bush Replacement Tools and Materials Also, you cannot cope with replacing the bushings without the stabilizer bushings themselves. You can get them without leaving your home. Fortunately, there is the Internet for this, with the help of which you can order the desired part with home delivery. You can also visit a car shop or market. Also keep in mind that certain rubber bands are needed for each car model, so before buying, do not be too lazy to first remove the old parts for comparison in the store. In addition, the serial number can be saved on them, which will facilitate the selection process. Otherwise, you risk spending money on a part that will not fit your car.
The quality of parts also plays an important role, because not only natural rubber, but also artificial rubber can be used for their production. If you have a choice: buy a sleeve made of natural material or artificial, then it is better to give preference to the latter option (it is more durable).
Replacing the front bushings
There are two ways to perform this procedure: jack one side of the car or two. The second method is considered more laborious, but many motorists prefer it. In addition, with both sides of the machine raised, the installation and removal of the bushings will be much easier. The main thing is safety precautions and adherence to the step-by-step instructions, which are given below.
Step 1. Buy replacement parts first. You can take the original or an analogue - it depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. Although even if you choose the original, then you will have to pay no more than 400 rubles for the parts.
Try not to skimp when choosing new bushings Step 2. Install the wheel chocks and jack up the vehicle. Then, remove the bushing bracket retaining bolt. To do this, you will need a 12 key. If the bolt will not turn, then treat it with WD-40 or as this tool is popularly called - "Vedoshka". After 5-10 minutes, the fastener can be easily unscrewed.
If the bolt is very rusty, then you will have to use a grinder Step 3. After loosening the mounting bolts, bend the retaining bracket slightly upward. It is very difficult to do this with your bare hands, so use a screwdriver, slightly prying the edge of the bracket with it.
Bend back the fixing bracket Step 4. Remove the bushing carefully. You do not need to use any tools for this, the sleeve can be easily removed anyway. After removal, inspect the part for damage, signs of wear, or cracks.
Step 5. Place the new bushing in place and lower the retaining bracket onto it. It is advisable to treat the surface of the sleeve with a small amount of graphite grease beforehand so that the bracket fits onto the rubber band without problems. Then tighten the fixing bolt, being careful not to rip off the threads. Otherwise, you have a little extra worries.
Install the bushing in its place Replacing the rear bushings
The rear stabilizer is mounted using two rubber bushings. As a rule, during operation of a car, these parts lose their strength and elasticity, as a result of which they are no longer able to perform their main functions. As a result, the rear suspension starts to knock when driving. If you hear characteristic sounds, then it is necessary to replace the rear bushings. As with replacing the front bushings, the machine must be jacked up. It is advisable to raise two sides at once - the right and the left. Now get to work.
Step 1. Get some new rubber bands to start with. In this case, they come complete with a special lubricant that extends the service life of the parts and facilitates the replacement process.
Step 2. Clean any dust from the surface of the stabilizer and fastener. To do this, use coarse sandpaper or a stiff brush. Then sprinkle some WD-40 on the bolt to make it easier to loosen.
We spray with a bag on the fastening bolt Step 3. Unscrew the fastening bolt by 14, and then slightly squeeze the bracket with pliers so that you can then remove the part. As you can see, the processes for replacing the front and rear bushings are not much different from each other, with the exception of the bolt being removed.
Step 4. Lubricate the stabilizer with the liquid from the kit, after which you can install a new bushing. Do not mix up the sides of the part, install it the same side as before. Otherwise, you run the risk of significantly reducing the life of a completely new part.
Step 5. Carefully slide the stabilizer bracket back into place and secure with the bolt. In this case, you need to be careful not to damage the fastener or the bracket itself. Now lower the back of the car and ride it to test your work.
Reinstall the bushing 
Gently tighten the fixing bolt Benefits of timely replacement
Every driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. Everything can be done with your own hands, but if you do not have time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will help protect the anti-roll bar from premature wear.
Driving on poor-quality road surfaces will recede into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings mean the absence of difficulties and problems during movement, as well as comfort and safety.
Features of the problem for popular models
As statistics show, the owners of such car models as Renault Megan, Skoda Rapid, Volkswagen Polo, Lada Vesta (and other representatives of the domestic auto industry) face problems associated with stabilizer bushings. Consider the features of specific car models, as well as recommendations for replacement.
Table. Description of the problem for some models
| Model | Description of the problem |
|---|---|
 | Often it is the structure of a given vehicle's suspension that is the main cause of bushing problems. Vesta is famous for the long travel of the stabilizer struts, which can cause unpleasant sounds when driving. Many car owners underestimate the fit of their car to solve this problem. You can also use a special silicone based lubricant. |
 | One proven way to fix squeaks is to fit a small piece of an old timing belt between the stabilizer bushing and the car body. The replacement of the bushings itself is no different from that indicated in the instructions above. |
 | As practice shows, the best way to get rid of squeaks is to install original VAG rubber bands. Also, many motorists use repair sleeves that differ from the usual sizes (repair sleeves are less than 1 mm). Alternatively, you can install rubber bands from other models of this manufacturer, for example, from Skoda Fabia. |
 | The process of replacing the bushing is no different from other models, but before installing a new rubber band, it and the seat must be treated with lubricant, which then will not harm the parts. Shampoo or soap can be used for this purpose. Depending on the modification, Renault Megane can be equipped with a reinforced or conventional suspension, therefore, the dimensions of the bushings and the stabilizer itself may differ. Consider this when purchasing replacement parts. |
 | Before purchasing the bushings, you must first measure the diameter of the stabilizer, since their dimensions may differ depending on the modification. To do this, use a vernier caliper. Many experts recommend buying special rubber bands for your car, equipped with anthers to protect against dust and water. For surface treatment of parts, it is necessary to use silicone-based products that will not corrode rubber. These products include "MOLYKOTE PG-54", "Litol-24" and others. |
As a conclusion
Despite the simplicity of the replacement, which almost every motorist can handle, safety must not be forgotten. The weight of the vehicle is no joke, so improper use of a jack or lack of a wheel choke can lead to serious injury. To avoid this, be sure to check the condition of the jack before work, and perform all steps of this process with extreme caution.
Video - Replacing the stabilizer bushings on the Chevrolet Aveo
The stabilizer bushings are one of those parts that drivers pay little attention to. Roughly speaking, they can be completely removed from the car's suspension and nothing terrible will happen. Yes, the car will start to work a little worse - there will be knocks and vibrations when driving, but the car will continue to drive, and this is the most important thing. But if you want to monitor your car fully, it is recommended, among other things, to pay attention to the bushings and their work.
Table of contents:Why do you need a stabilizer
Before dealing with the direct role of the bushings, you need to understand what the task is on the car at the stabilizer. As the name suggests, this element stabilizes the position of the vehicle. The stabilizer is activated every time the car enters a corner and brakes. When cornering, there is a risk of lateral roll, and when braking longitudinal, and in each of these situations, the stabilizer does everything to keep the car parallel to the roadway.
Structurally, the stabilizer is a conventional rod that connects the subframe to the wheel mount (we can say that with the suspension arm when it comes to the MacPherson strut front suspension). In a MacPherson suspension, the camber angle is static, and when the car rolls, it changes. Changing the camber angle inevitably leads to a decrease in the contact area of the tire with the road. To minimize the risk of such a situation, you need to reduce the roll force, which is what the stabilizer does. In fact, we can say that it takes on the role of a torsion bar: at the slightest probability of lateral roll, the transverse ends located in the levers begin to move in different directions, thereby twisting the middle part. The moment that occurs during such a movement is sufficient to prevent the wheels from continuing relative movement, which reduces roll.
Purpose of stabilizer bushings
The stabilizer bushings are extremely important for the correct operation of the entire mechanism. Since the stabilizer must necessarily be able to twist from multidirectional forces on the left and right wheels, it is customary to mount it with bushings. In the process of operation, the stabilizer bushings begin to wear out, and a backlash occurs, which leads to the malfunction of the entire mechanism, increasing the freedom of the part. If you do not take any action to eliminate the backlash (replacing the stabilizer bushings), all sense in the stabilizer operation will disappear - the car will begin to roll in corners.
How to change stabilizer bushings
Replacing the stabilizer bushings is a fairly simple process that can be performed at almost any service center. You can also replace worn parts yourself, if you have all the necessary tools.
To replace the stabilizer bushings you will need:
- Lift, since the work will be carried out under the car;
- New stabilizer bushings. Basically, the hub is just a regular piece of rubber, so there is no critical need to purchase original parts. On sale you can find a lot of analogues from well-known manufacturers, for example, from Sidem and Sasic;
- A pair of keys (or heads).
