Do not consider me bore, but without knowing the terms in the modern auto-world just nowhere.
The other day in a conversation with a friend heard the phrase: "Yes, he was on the slicks" ... and rushed-went. While he was granted to me there, I had already painted a new post in my head, the approximate picture surfaced, etc.
Let's understand the same what is Slik ...
Slik (eng. Slick) - an absolutely smooth tire that does not have a tread and other elements that reduce the contact stain with the track. The first gluts produced were developed by M & H Tires in the early 1950s, these were tires for drag racing. Due to the absence of tread grooves, the wheel contact area is increasing, which increases friction with the track, which as a result contributes to a good clutch with the track.
But here there is one nuance, such a type of tires (slopes) provides a greater clutch with an expensive only on dry roads, but has a much worse grip on wet roads, because On a wet track, they simply slipk, because there is nothing to cling to the asphalt (the loss of tire clutch with a moist track is called aquaplaning).
Aquaplaning is the occurrence of the hydrodynamic wedge in the spack of the tire contact - that is, the complete or partial loss of adhesion caused by the presence of a water layer separating the tire of the moving vehicle from the road surface. In this case, the vehicle is almost uncontrollable. It occurs when the speed reaches a critical value (an average of 70 - 100 km / h, but can reach 40 km / h), in which the wheel does not have time to remove water from the contact spot. The larger the water film on the surface of the road and the smaller residual depth of the tire tread, the higher the risk of aquaplaning. At high speed on the wet surface, the wheel literally pops up.
Based on Wiki
Because of this, the slicks are not suitable for use on public roads. Cars intended for everyday use should be prepared for all weather conditions. But the slicks find their use in automotive competitions, where participants may choose the type of tires for arrival in accordance with the weather (as well as change them directly during the competition).
Also, due to the absence of a tread, the slicks are less deformed under load. A smaller deformation allows you to use cheating softer rubber in tires: due to less deformation, it overheats less and swell. Soft rubber also increases the clutch with the road. But wait, the same racing tires! When used in tire competitions, the tire is faster and as a result of the slick, it is necessary to change much more often than ordinary tires. About a couple of races and tire is on write-off. It's a shame of course, but this competition is not to have to save here.
Also, when using racing tires of slicks, fuel consumption increases due to the larger contact spack with the track.
Now all the manufacturers of tires are actually presenting new tire models for everyday use, do focus on this, the economic component of approximately 150-200 grams of fuel per 100 km, compared with previous models, as well as environmental: less fuel consumption - less harmful emissions in Atmosphere.
Try the "effect of slicks" by using winter rubber in summer time, because Rubber for winter in its properties is softer, the contact spot is more, etc. As well as wear, consumption and condition of the chassis ... If the machine is not prepared for competitions, it is better not to experiment. IMHO
As in the post about about here there is a nuance, and how usually the Russian manufacturers were distinguished. Taking advantage of a loud word on tuners, registered SLIK and started stamping alloy wheels.
Yes, yes, it is written in different ways, but it is pronounced equally.
I can't say anything bad about the discs, because I have never come across them, but beware of confusion ...
Edited: 04/03/2019
Today we will talk about such an important piece of bike as a tire. Its correct choice in many respects determines how your bike will ride well.
To date, there are hundreds of various options designed to drive like a smooth urban asphalt, so on dirt, mountain trails, ice and snow.
Each type of tires was developed and should be applied to its roads. Therefore, the main selection depends on the type of bicycle selected and what roads are you going to ride.
In the figure on the right with the transverse section of the wheel, it is the outlines: 4 - onboard ring (boring cable), 6 - Tire and 7 - protector
So in order.
Consider first the structure bicycle Tires.
It consists of several main parts:
- coupling with expensive;
- noise tire when driving;
- row;
- wear resistance;
- bicycle handling.
Tires are usually made of:
- Natural rubber is the best option, but very expensive.
- Synthetic rubber is much cheaper in the manufacture, but it has sufficiently low wear resistance.
- Compound. This is a mixture of various mono- and polymers. Quite sufficient is cheaply resistant, in many ways exceeds synthetic rubber, although natural is still inferior.
Compounds may have different stiffness and, as a result, adhesion with expensive and wear resistance. More details about the stiffness of the compounds can be read in a separate article.
How to check the quality of the material from which the tire is made.
There are simple and reliable methods.
It is necessary to spend your finger or nail on board - if there is a noticeable mark on the topboard, it means that it will quickly wear out when driving on the road.
There is always a mustache on the new rubber. If they pull for them, and you will see that they stretched at least 2 times (and even better, if in 3-4) and only then broke away - it means this is a good tire.
Well, we received general concepts about the covers. Now consider what they happen to how to choose and what it affects when traveling.
Types of tires
You need to understand one simple truth - each type is designed to drive along the surface intended for it. And they are divided by the type of tread.
Slicks
The name comes from the English Slick that translated is smooth, slippery. They do not have a tread pattern at all or it is minimal. Designed for trips to smooth urban, highway and well-rolled dry Smart roads. On such roads is not worth the principal question about the adhesion with the surface - it is always there. But the advantage will be that slicks
- Silent;
- Have a good risk;
- When driving there is no vibration.
No spikes slow down the tire when rolling, the additional energy of the cyclist is not spent on overcoming the resistance to friction of thorns on the surface of the road, as on other types of tires. The drawing on them is designed to remove water. Sometimes the manufacturer add a dye and get multi-colored products, which gives such bicycles an additional highlight.
Please note that the slicks will be very bad to ride soft soil and dirt.
Such tires, for example, are installed on bicycles and.
Poluslicks
As can be seen from the name on these tires, only half is a slick. Have a low and "even" protector, and on the sides of small spikes. The protector, evenly speaking over the cord along the entire surface of the tires in contact with the road, provides a good risk, and the side spikes grip with a soft soil and do not give the bus to fall into it. Designed for both driving on dry and wet asphalt, highway, rolled primer and loose, viscous soil. For most cyclists, the polusters is an ideal solution that allows you to ride almost everywhere. Have a good rolling and adhesion on dry and wet soils and asphalt. This happens due to the fact that the water is squeezed out of the contact area in the voids of the tread, which makes the contact area itself with a dry and chain.
When driving, we need to take into account that with sharp turns, the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe wheel is reduced, in contact with the soil (the wheel as it is lifted on the side spikes) and the adhesion decreases, increasing the risk of falling. Typically, novice cyclists are quite quickly starting to "feel the turn."
For these tires, it is important correctly selected pressure. With low pressure, all advantages are lost. Properly pumped half-color should ride a smooth part of the tread on a solid surface and only lateral grooves begin to work on soft soil. At low pressure, the tire will be flattened and cling to the solid surface of the lateral primer, creating additional resistance and faster wear. In general, about the pressure should be in the tires you can read in.
Mud
Tires with a high protector. This usually combines all tires with a height of rubber spikes on the tread up to 10 mm. Groundotozharain solid and tightly located. They have a bad risk, especially on asphalt, but the grip with the soil is much better than half-sleeves.
Designed for travel on:
- not very big dirt;
- loose soil;
- sand;
- sleep snow.
The journey along asphalt on such wheels is possible, but not very convenient. They are noisy, the speed does not speculate, the handling is weak.
Winter or tires with a high mud tread
From can be divided into
1. Tires with high tread teeth, but without metal spikes.
These are tires with spikes height more than 10 mm.
At the same time, the spikes themselves are located not as often as on the previous ones, which does not allow strong dirt and snow stuck between spikes. Ideal for trips in big dirt, deep snow, passable swamps. According to asphalt and ordinary roads, it is not a trip, but a continuous mockery of the organism. No risk, speed and clutch. Due to the high spikes, the contact area decreases sharply, the bike manageability is also worsening. By the way, it is not necessary to ride on them on the ice, for this we need studded tires. Often, just semizers will feel better on the ice, since they have more contact surface. In general, these are tires for "gourmets".
2. Protectors with metal spikes.
Such a protector is the best option for travel on ice, a very dense snowy imaging on the rigged roads and with constant temperature fluctuations in the zero area. That "plus", then "minus." With this temperature, rain or falling snow constantly lifts and frozen, forming an ice crust on the road. In some regions of our country, it is even enough long period during the year.
The spikes themselves make mainly from winning alloys and they are pointed or stupid. Spikes with a pointed top have a good clutch with ice, and with a flat top - to ride in dirt.
When traveling on asphalt and flat and pointed spikes over time, semicircular are becoming.
The spikes themselves put on rubber in 2, 3 and more rows.
To optimally use all the advantages of studded rubber, it is necessary to pick up the pressure in the wheels.
Size and width of the tire
As for the size of the tire - then everything is clear. It takes the size of the rim. But on the width we will stop in more detail.
It depends on it, the coupling with the road and control on turns. The larger the width - the better the clutch with the road and the controls on the turns, but worse than the roll. Usually, the polusters are produced with a width of 1.95 inches, and to the tooths - the width begins most often from 2.1 inches. Manufacturers produce tires of different sizes, and you ourselves must be determined, which is more important - rolls or handling.
Consider the same as the wider the tire, the more stable, but also slowly.
If you are going to mainly ride more or less smooth roads to use bus width up to 2 inches. If you are going to drive off off-road - it is better to take wider tires, more than 2 inches wide.
On the highway models put narrow tires: 18-27 mm or 1 inch and already.
The width of the tire is indicated by the manufacturer on the side of the cord, usually there is where the diameter. For example: 26 "x2.1" - a diameter of 26 inches, and the width is 2.1 inches.
Marking can also be indicated in millimeters. For example: 700x23 - diameter 700 mm, and width 23 mm.
More details about the types of marking, sizes and table of interchangeability of tires of different sizes and manufacturers are described in the article ". On the principles of the selection of the width of rubber, depending on the rim width, is described)
I want to stop at a few points
Is it possible to put different tires on different wheels?
In fact, the front wheel when managing the bicycle plays a big role than the rear. If the rear wheel drive can be compensated, at least fast support on the leg, then when driving the front - it will definitely fall. The front wheel is worse gripped with an expensive - there is less than the pressure of the cyclist weight.
Based on the foregoing, it is possible to put more weave rubber on the front wheel than the rear. But it makes sense only when driving on the ground.
If you have an urban bike or your trips are limited to ordinary roads, it does not make any sense at all.
This question is reviewed in more detail in a separate article:
Symmetric and asymmetrical protectors.
The drawings on the tread are most often symmetrical. But sometimes meet and specially designed under a certain direction of movement. At the same time, the direction of movement of the wheel will surely be indicated on the tire. If such a tire is incorrectly installed, then instead of the rowing effect - it turns out sliding.
For example, in the photo below shows such a tire with an arrow of the wheel rotation arrow after installing on a bike.
About how on the tire indicates the direction of movement of the wheel, which still writes on cyclocks, as well as indicate other numbers on it there is on our website.
Wear tires
If the drawing on the tread is worn to 60%, then such a tire can be rearranged from the front wheel to the rear. Note that it can be done only for asphalt and dirt roads. And if there are 10-20% left - then you will do a new one anybody.
For driving on dirt and off-road, the tires cannot be rearranged. Worn to throw out and buy new tires - more for me.
What camera to choose.
They differ:
- Dimensions;
- type of nipel;
- wall thickness;
- the material from which is made.
The chamber is unambiguously under the size of the tire and the diameter of the hole in the rim for Nipel. In more detail, questions regarding are covered in a separate article on our website.
Pressure in tires.
If it is very short - then we can say the following:
When driving on a mountain bike in the city and rolled primer, it is 3-3.5 atmospheres, when driving on the ground - 2.5-3 atmosphere.
At the same time, if your weight is more than 80-100 kg, boldly add another 0.5 atmosphere into the wheels, watching not to exit the maximum pressure indicated on the tire.
On the road bike - boldly pump the 3.5-4 atmosphere, again, looking at the limit values.
Remember, the optimal pressure for yourself can be chosen, just riding a bike for a while. Each cyclist has its own weight and ride style. In this case, the same pressure for one will be optimal, and for someone too low or high.
Conclusion
Based on the above description of the types of protector, it becomes clear that the main type of tires used by most cyclists to ride through urban and dirt roads is half-and-smoking. They are on all types of bicycles sold in our
Well, I thought well here and decided to answer, because in this case "drivers of the old school" nifiga do not cut, and why they have to chop in this chicken, because many of them are Nissan-Sunny and did not see the eyes from where They know how and what you need to fade in real sports cars. And all the "new school drivers" assure that sports car is sports tires. Well, I'll lay out the point of view of the "new school". Of course, take a slick and do not be afraid of anything, but not to be afraid I will open you the little secrets of the "new school". So that the slick is not afraid of any "light ice" no pack ice, you need special thoughts, and because These are sports tires, then the spikes must be sports, that is, 5-7 mm high. The whole chip in the density of obsessing, it must be at least one spike per square meter. See Tire Square, and better two or three spikes on sq.m. At the same time, we immediately win on wear resistance, such tires will be swept significantly more than normal. Yes, and on the asphalt, the behavior will improve, sports spikes will be bought into the asphalt not worse than in the ice, and no slip on the start will not be terrible, because you can easily proceed the thin layer of asphalt and get to the solid ground. True, on wet asphalt, it will be hard on tires in the aquaplaning, and this is bad, because then the car would simply fly on the water film without touching the asphalt, and you can develop higher speed, while saving gasoline. So look for the right slicks, and without them it is better not to go to the road.
Well, about the A539 chosen you chosen by you, even if they are properly encouraged, they will be insufficiently aggressive, look at the bors from Interco, or Simex Estraim Tracker, after the right miscurrent, it is some of the best skies for drag and ring racing. There will be questions - ask, the instructor of the "new school" will always give a "good" council.It would be better not yet answered \u003d :)
Maybe offtop but still
It seems to be their test: (there are 3 parts. I drove on the track. One of them Tsuchia :))
(I'm not sure that this model is, but in the drawing of the tread very similar)Cry today. Conclusions There probably in Japanese? \u003d :)
Plikov wear resistance above ... well, well ...
Blinks or pseudosliki are special axles and for use in domestic conditions are not suitable. This is the option. The cost of that cost is much higher than ordinary tires.
Missess Understood about how it is possible on N. Sanni (if the conversation about the car in the signature) for the season to put the set of summer tires ...
You have chosen 539 slicks is not.They have and production technology appropriate. Here for example, the A359 quickly takes off, and it is necessary to carry it out of Dinolop DZ1. It is necessary to erase it for the thousand 50. In addition, a larger point of contact does not allow the wheel once again to go into the beams or Yuz, it is less erased accordingly. Well, the production technology there must also be said also differ from the technology of making civil tires.
About erased rubber ... yes on sleigh. I think that the softness of rubber has affected. At the end of the summer, the grooves in the center had a height of about a millimeter. Rubber Breeches, I do not remember the model.