Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI / Skoda eat, 5DV crossover, 105 hp, 7akpp, 2013 - starter twist, but the engine does not start
Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI 5DV. Crossover, 105 hp, 7AKPP, 2013 G.V. - Starter twists, but the engine does not start
Starter twists, but the engine does not start
The reasons
The reasons for this behavior of the car can be quite a lot. The main are listed below. We divided them into two categories. To begin with, we will analyze those with which any newcomer can cope:
Human factor:
You forgot to turn off the anti-theft, which blocks, for example, only fuel pump.
The exhaust pipe is clogged. Good people put a rag or potatoes in it, and maybe you just drove into a snowdrift - a lot of options. The exhaust pipe should be released.
All of the above, in general, is not a breakdown, and is solved in two bills. And now we will analyze the reasons for technical malfunction:
If the starter twists completely slowly, then the cause can be thickened in the frost oil in the engine. And maybe discharged after a long-term parking or its strongly oxidized terminals. At the same time, the voltage of the boots can occur so that the engine control unit will refuse to work. Well, everything is clear here: the oil should be pouring on the season, the battery is charged or replaced.
Something frozen - water in the gas station, diesel fuel in a tank or filter. Look for a warm box!
Focused fuel pump. Ensure that it is easy if you are not trying to start the car nearby lively and noisy highway. If it is quiet, then a sensitive ear can catch the absence of the characteristic buzz of the fuel pump during the starter operation. At best, bad contact is to blame, in the worst you will be waiting for the pump.
The crown of the flywheel turns. This sometimes happened on the machines of the previous years of release, right up to the VAZ-2109. It is heard that the Bendix clung to the crown, and the crown with a screech turns on the flywheel. Flywater replacement is coming.
Starter does not fit with the crown. Reason: wear of parts, treasured teeth, etc. When trying to start, the teeth are crushing. Get ready for replacing the crown or flywheel.
Bindiks Bound. Whether his drive flew, whether the Bendix himself is no matter. It is hears that the starter engine rotates on high revs, but there is no more attempt to turn the engine. Get ready for repair or replacing the starter.
Failure of the ignition system from gasoline machines. We check everything in a row - candles, coils, wiring, etc.
Diesel machine does not work in incandescent candles. The problem may be in the control unit, as well as in the power relay. The candles themselves should also be checked - it will have to tinker.
Scattered in the shreds belt timing. It is easy to feel: the starter has become easy to twist. If you are lucky (the pistons did not meet with valves) - it is enough to replace the belt if there is no inside.
The timing belt jumped into several teeth, violating the correctness of the phases of gas distribution. Again, at best, it will be necessary to return the belt to the place, but at worst you will be waiting for an expensive repair.
Increased resistance to the rotation of the crankshaft: Zadira on the shafts, liners of bearings, the details of the cylindroport group, the deformation of the shafts. Check if you manage to turn the engine when the vehicle is pushed with the highest transmission included in the manual. With the machine you will have to try to turn the engine per bolt mounting the pulley drive auxiliary units. If the engine manages relatively easy to turn, the search for the reason will need to continue.
Enclosed the generator, power steering pump, air conditioner compressor. A defective unit does not allow to turn the engine. You can first see for checking, whether the belt is strained over the measure when trying to turn the engine. If suspicions are confirmed, then you can remove the drive belt of the auxiliary units and try to reach the service station to its own way. Of course, it will only work on cars, where the coolant pump rotates the timing belt. With disabling pump, without cooling fluid circulation, even a cold motor will quickly boil.
At night, your car was trying to hurt, but something went wrong. As a result, the attackers hit, broke something and disappeared with disappear. Here, without diagnostics, I do not solve the problem.
What to do
If the starter is twist, and the engine does not start, first of all, you should check the power system and the ignition system.
Please note that all these checks should be performed only when the starter twists smoothly, without jerks. Otherwise (jerking during the operation of the starter or clicking instead of the usual buzz), the problem should be sought, first of all, at the starter.
Checking the fuel system should be performed sequentially - from the fuel pump to the injector (carburetor):
1. If you have an injector, then when the ignition is turned on in the cabin, the buzz of the electric fuel pump should be heard. If there is no buzz, then the motor of the fuel pump is burned down, or there is no tension on it. Consequently, it is necessary to check the fuel pump itself, as well as its fuse.
2. With carburetry cars, everything is slightly complicated: the fuel pump has a drive from the camshaft, so that the check will have to remove the end of the hose from the inlet fitting of the carburetor or exhaust fuel pump. If you swing several times the lever of the manual paging of the gas station, from the fitting or hose should go gasoline.
3. To check the presence of gasoline in the injection ramp, you need to click on the velocity valve for connecting the pump: from there should go gasoline.
4. Be sure to check if the fuel filter was not clogged. Perhaps the motor simply lacks fuel, so it does not start.
5. Another reason why the starter is twist, and the car does not start, is the crown throttle.
After performing all the actions described above, you can try to start the car again. If the starter is still twist, but the machine does not start, then it is necessary to proceed to check the ignition system.
1. First you should unscrew the candle and check the presence of sparks on it. To do this, wear a high-voltage wire on the covered candle, touch the candle skirt to the metal part of the engine and rotate the engine using the starter (it will take a helper). If the spark is, it means that the candle is working.
2. If the sparks are not in the injection vehicle, it means that the problem is in the ignition module.
3. If the sparks are not in the carburetor engine, it means that the ignition coil should be checked. Remove the center wire from the traver cover, put it with the end of 5 mm from the metal part of the engine (without touching) and ask the assistant to scroll the engine starter. If there is no spark, the coil is faulty.
4. If the spark is and the ignition coil is proper, you should remove the lid of the traver and see if there is defects under it (Nagar, Cracks, etc.).
There are cases when all these checks are not enough, and the car owner has to carry out deeper inspections to identify the reason that the starter twists, and the engine does not start. Among the reasons why this may be, are also found:
1. Burned fuse. This occurs infrequently, but it is still worth checking the integrity of fuses in blocks.
2. Corrosion on any of the electrical parts.
3. Condensate under the hood. There were cases when the car did not start precisely because of excessive humidity under the hood.
Specifications
Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI / Skoda Skoda in the body 5 DV. Crossover with engine 105 hp, 7AKPP manufactured from 2013
Your technical equipment should be impeccable - after all, the time you have, there are the same money that, we hope you also have. Do not lose any other. If there is a disappearance of a tie or a library, a trouser who has lost the iron can cause a breakdown of a business meeting, then talking about a car that does not want to start an hour before the appointed negotiations.
Early in the morning, the freshly brightened and full of great plans (a child - to school, a wife - in a hairdresser, and he himself - to joke a labor penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... what a damn ... still time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is spoiled from the very beginning. Plans and mood - a cat under the tail.
Calm down. It is not necessary to rush under the English costume under the hood and, sinking the tie oil mud, try to diagnose. In 5 minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a friend to the evening. And better instruct his doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have a dear car, and you are not special. So it will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well acquainted and you consider yourself a healer - Well, try yourself, if not too lazy to get dirty or another output.
To the formulation of the diagnosis we must start quietly
Examine mentally symptoms. First - does the starter twist? And if so, how much is cheerful? You already know the answer - recall what happened at the first attempts to start the car. If you do not remember - try again.
If the starter does not twist at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the council above: "Take another machine ..."), or trouble with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models, the starter power supply chain can be protected by a fuse - the amper of the AMPE is 300 - it is easy to find it, especially if you know where it is located in advance. If the battery is to blame, then all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case - flew or contaminated one of the terminals, but the battery is in order. Tighten the fastenings of the terminals on it and at the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery completely sat down (they forgot to turn off the headlights on the night), you can still leave. But with an extreme help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start with a shock, from a slide or from a tug. Do not try to bypass underwater stones: a car with an automatic box or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) with these ways it will not be possible to start. We'll have to bite the neighbor. True, some machines may damage the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is twist, but sluggish (it happens in summer, in winter it is a subject of a separate conversation), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. It will be visible on the weak light of the headlight or a sick signal. In this case, the above assistance options come into effect.
If the starter turns cheerfully, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, boldly exclude from further reflections all connected with the battery. Patya on the ignition system or fuel supply, you will not be mistaken. When making a diagnosis and treatment of each of them, a systematic approach is required. Start better from ignition - there are more often malfunctions. Especially in crude weather.
From the spark will marry ...
So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine can be equipped with a classic (simplest) ignition contact system, a rather complicated electronic contactless or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part One is low-voltage (interrupter contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in the electronic, plus a box with an electronic stuffing forming a spark). Part Two is an increase in the transformer, referred to in the world of the ignition coil. Part Three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires, for which the high voltage current is summed up to the candles). And naturally, the candles themselves. The check of all this farm must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.
Stage First. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the central wire - this is the one that connects the coil with the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cover, closer to any part that has a good contact with the mass of the car (it is painted or not, it does not matter), and the gap of 5-7 mm remains between the tip and the selected part.
If the ignition of your machine is electronic, it is necessary to mount the wire especially reliably - if it falls on the ground, the electronics will instantly order for a long time. For the same reason, it is impossible to chirp the wire on the body. Do not advise him by hand either, not even with your own - it will hit the current.
Stage second. Turn the engine starter. At the same time, see what happens on the tip of the wire. Two options are possible. A more favorable is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by loud-clicking. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.
First of all, you need to remove the distributor cover. Under it can be raw and dirty. According to such a "conductor," the spark is willingly slipping anywhere, but not there, where it is necessary. Wash out, clean and dry. At the same time, it is harmful to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, a shallow eye. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trail of the electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to change.
The most respectful way to check the wires from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and clean. If with them, in your opinion, everything is in order, you can put the lid in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the fault was burned under the lid - the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn, clean and dry the candles - in trying to start the engine you poured them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles still have to turn, clean and check. Simply, if there is a spare kit.
If you have already reached the step of turning the candles, it is possible to be quite effective (and effectively) to check the entire ignition system as a whole. Connecting the high-voltage wires to the twin candles, collect candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap directly along their threaded part with a naked soft wire. Make sure the wire has contact with each candle, but does not concern the central electrodes. Fluent wire end connect with mass. By placing a beam of candles in a convenient place to observe the location, screw the engine starter. At the same time, there should be funny sparks between the electrodes of candles in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinders). If so, then the whole ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be scared, because it spins with twisted candles. Do not twist for a long time. Worse, if at the second stage of checking there is another option: the sparks between the central wire and the "case" is not. So it's not in high-voltage chains. Further search will be more complicated, appreciate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if the voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. It is easy to make a tester, and if it is not, you can use a rotor light bulb. True, you will need a pair of wires to connect it to the coil. In the classic ignition system, connect the light bulb between the mass and the input of the primary winding.
In the third stage, As usual, two options are also possible: the voltage to the coil is either served or not. If it is served, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, it happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to change. It is more likely to be bad contact in the mounting of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, according to which the spark bucks not known where. Sometimes the coil is cleaned to the brilliance, but under it the invisible very narrow strip of dirt is preserved - a good conductor.
If, at the third stage, you were convinced that the coil voltage is not served - the electronics or contacts and contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. With electronics (switch and, less often, sensor in the distributor housing) you can not cope - for their diagnostics you need special equipment. It is possible for you to pull the sensor connector on the dispenser housing - suddenly helps. If you have a car with a classic ignition contact system, you can find further.
Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the interrupter - they can oxidize, especially if the car stood for some time without movement. Contacts need to be carefully cleaned with a thin eyelet or special nadfyl.
Hold the cleaned contacts so that they are closed, they swallowed. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so it is possible to pull without knowlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the coil voltage is still not fed, we once again advise you to finish the attempts to resuscitate the car, since the difficulty will begin.
If the voltage appeared (when moving the contacts, the lamp flashes), restore all the developed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe still will have time to do. If it does not start, but at least sneezes - turn out the candles and ... (see).
Do not press the floor - it will not help
It may turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order, and the engine, even though you are crazy, does not start. So, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, t. e. Fuel supply to the engine.
If you have a car with an injection (injector feeding system) of fuel - do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was broken by it: there is a spark that fuel is suitable - it means she is rim. Treatment only in the hospital. At home and kustareys, it is useless to repair it and even harmful.
In the usual carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - tank, fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can smooth yourself. First of all, you need to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and click on the manual fuel swap lever. If a rather powerful jet of gasoline scored - everything is fine, it's time to go to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is applied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not come. If there is time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to sharply click on the accelerator pedal. Or you can dramatically pull the throttle drive cable. At the same time, look at the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you will not see anything): If the gasoline strika does not appear in the first diffuser - it means that there is no it in the float chamber. There is no it there because the needle of the valve (it happens very often) is completely clogged with a fuel filter in the carburetor - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or zepers clouded. The filter is purified by purging, however, in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better not to bind to the carburetious insides at all, to deal with the healing of the needle valve, clogging of loopholes and other subtleties - let it make specialists.
If the trickle is in the diffuser, pay attention to the launching device of the carburetor - it is quite often fail. On foreign cars starting about the 70s, automatic air damper control is applied. The device without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the flap as far as it is necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine starts. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal councils. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. Air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to the place) .. if when checking the fuel supply by a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline from the hose does not go or the trickle is very fluid, the reason should be sought in the closed pipelines, the fuel filter or fuel filter The fuel tube itself - you can safely demonstrate your masterness, pumping the benzins of the tire pump in the direction, inverse the movement of gasoline, t. e. From the carburetor to Baku. In the tank should be heard the ardor, bullous sounds.
With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although almost all modern models, it is made in a transparent building, the degree of contamination is impossible to visually determine. The dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to go normally. If it is completely clogged - the engine does not start. The most efficient check: Remove the filter and, if there is no new, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the ballpoint housings are better transparent - it can be seen how gasoline flows. Do not attempt to clean the filter - a walled (or missed) case does not understand.
If you came to the conclusion that your car does not work the fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".
Rare, but the most unpleasant diagnosis we left at last. If the starter works fine, you have already spent a bunch of time and made sure that ignition and food are in perfect order, and the car, however, does not start - it is worth considering the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The complexity is that we will have to remove or at least partially bend the top of the closing belt of plastic casing. It is possible that the belt was cut off the teeth - in the belts, like people, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain drive camshaft, this trouble is not threatened). The belt replacement procedure is not complicated, but troublesome. Carried out in the hospital. Well, if everything limits the replacement of only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire block of the block - it also happens.
Smaller fucking
It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since on most modern cars, it is maintenance free, it makes no sense to give here instructions for use. We will give only a few additional advice, how long to keep the battery viable. Do not get carried away with your machine with additional energy consumers. The fact that in the energy balance of the machine is provided for a defined stock that allows you to connect to two-three "thugs", does not mean that you can hang six clicksons for the car and ten foglights - have a sense of measure. In addition, if you connect the unforeseen Tsatski yourself, the likelihood of insulation damage is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified operational intervention in the wiring of the car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.
If your battery breathes to incense, try not to kick the engine during cutting stops in the city. Nothing raises the battery as a frequent use of the starter.
And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but also the entire electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips should be dry and clean and well to lay down to "destinations". Dirty, grilled insulation sooner or later breaks through, and the burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) cause of the ignition system failure. Or fire.
This can be stopped. The meticulous car enthusiasts undoubtedly noticed at some superficialness of our tips. We admit, we intentionally do not want to go deep into the debrist. In order not to provoke you to self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain at the bottom of the belly on the right does not mean that you yourself must delete your appendix. But you need to describe the doctor's doctor's symptoms for sure. Very helps treatment.
Children's diseases of the car Skoda Yeti (Skoda Yeti) with a 1.2 liter motor, turbo, TSIThis car has become a rather frequent guest ...
From the name of the car you can see and immediately attracts attention: "Motor 1.2 liter". And without "turbo" and the TSI system, this motor would be pretty hard to carry such a body: in the photo height of the work to eliminate the extreme malfunction for the service period in our car service.
But start from the very beginning: first the sound of the motor was heard, then this Skoda appeared due to turn. The sound became clear: "something is wrong with the motor" ... Looked into the salon, I saw a burning oil pressure light bulb and told the client:
You first need to appeal to the mechanics, the burning light on the oil is to them.
The car was redirected to a plumbing post, where our specialists have determined the malfunction after opening the oil pan: "the oil worker will be scored. Moreover, it is not scored by some garbage, but "something resembling tar", as Specialist of the Specialist of Locksmith Work Sergey said.
But the owner was surprised and said that the maintenance he passed and passes regularly, as it should be: once in fifteen thousand kilometers.
After eliminating this malfunction, the motor was started, gave him a little work and the engine began to come to life, the sound of his work was much softer, the light bulb on the instrument panel was no longer blocked.
Floor post - it was only the beginning. Sergey saw that on the instrument panel, the oil pressure lamp went out, but others were tanned: "Course stability" and "Check the engine". And again the car moves to the original place, to the post of automotive diagnostics and repair, that is, to us. An original scanner is used for diagnostics, which shows this error:
From the practice of working with similar motors I know that one of the reasons for this error may be elementary pollution Sensors. However, their thorough cleaning did not help.
While the car worked at idle (here you need some time to drive out all the excess oil from the intercoule - it is built into the intake manifold and has liquid cooling), continued to think and analyze the situation. Then he drove the motor and began to search for information in more detail. All reference books, service manuals, manuals and other sources of technical information on the topic of the question talked about what "it is necessary to check that another, to measure the voltage there ... Check if there is no suction" ... but everything was not checked and did not find deviations. Thought: "What else can affect this malfunction?".
Finally, I got to the throttle knot, everything was clean on the view there, but for some reason I wanted to look there - I just pulled to see ... What was done.
Indeed, outwardly everything was clean and did not cause any suspicions:
But, despite the seeming cleanliness - this purity did not believe, the throttle was reinsured and the throttle was carefully cleaned (how to clean it correctly you can read in the articles of the Legion-Avtodat, and on the Legion-AvtoDAT forum: http://autodata.ru/article/ , http://forum.autodata.ru/index.php. ).
After that, with some impatience, I started the engine and carried out an adaptation of the throttle. What turned out: Motor errors did not occur after cleaning the throttle, and the pressure error disappeared after adaptation.
Having warmed up, the motor began to enter the operating mode. And here I thought: "The suspicions turned out to be justified: the turbine on this motor is interesting, it is like a pump for the ventilation system of crankcase gases, the pipe of the crankcase gas system has a way out immediately before the air intake of the turbine ... and in all likelihood, due to the installation of a non-original air filter or a certain degree of its contamination. The turbine sucks an excessive amount of the oil vapor in the intake manifold, and the oil, burning, thereby cumulating the motor.
The air filter was replaced with the original, and the client advised it to change it every ten thousand kilometers and make chemical flushing of nozzles as the prevention of coking of the motor. After some time, the car was again with us to check, we looked at it and made sure that after the operations we spent the throttle, the intake manifold is clean, without traces of oil pollution.
The problem on the motor and bugs was solved, but after a while, this car was again at the gate of our boxing, but this time with other troubles for the client: the indication of opening-closing doors stopped working. And everything happened quite slyly: if the driver's door to open up to half - the indication shows it, and it is worth bringing the door to full opening - everything, the indication shows that the door is closed. And at this point, the display on the back door did not work.
The 2010 remote car, as they say about such - "advanced", and most faults can be viewed using the original scanner. Looked. It turned out that with the full opening of the doors, there was no connection with the driver's control unit, as there was no connection with the rear left door block. Schematics here such: control goes via the CAN bus, only the power and CAN itself is suitable. Wires are a bit. Control blocks stand in each door. I look further: when the door is closed, the connection is restored. The experience of such work was already, so immediately looked into the harness of the wires going to the door, referring to this rubber casing. And here it is! ... (in the photo below).
Work, at first glance, simple, nothing complicated! However, look at the photo more closely - I had to disassemble a lot to pull the victim harness from the door to sufficient length for convenient work and quality repairs.
Removed a protective case and determined the location of the fault: at the point of bending (breaking), the wires are broken. That's right: when closing - opening the door, the contacts were connected, it was separated, thereby the control unit determined the error, and the broken was the power wires. It could not bring anything good to anything, well, if it simply closes and fuse will unwind. And if the fuse is a lime, the "Chinese", which does not burn out, and "burns in a blue flame"? There is not far from the fire.
I pull the wires a bit and begin to build them up. I want to draw attention to: such buildings and the compounds spend only the silicone acoustic wire. The location of the connection takes the most further from the point of the previous compound so that there is no repetition. Why such a wire is "acoustic". They are much more pleasant, soft and flexible more reliable with good (minimal) resistance (in good wires used oxygen-free copper).
Two words about why more and more appeals in the service station over electrical connections are becoming more and more. You just do not laugh, but my opinion personally: "In all," green "and them, sometimes unfounded demands on ecology." German cars and some others, using the same technologies, are affected by the lone of wires, but Japanese production machines are treated less often. I think that these technologies began to be applied according to the requirements of "green" ecologists, due to which the electric automotive wires began to serve a smaller term. However, it is both manufacturers in hand: the earlier the car will stop working, the more people will acquire new cars. "Environmental wires - more brittle and less reliable wires."
All connections must accomplish with soldering:
The rubber casing has not happened to me outside the door, I had to unscrew the windows and only after a little pushed him intowards, I was able to push my hand and push the casing from the inside.
Finally, I can say: this car is only three years of life, and he has already begun such serious problems. It must be assumed that it is very soon in the car services we will flow by the river such cars with similar faults.
All successful repairs!
Gorshkov D.A.
© Legion Autodata
Gorshkov Dmitry Aleksandrovich (8 926 171 75 95), Elektrostal PR-T of the world d. 27-A, AutoTech Center building
Ignition key from Skoda Yeti Outdoor.
An extremely rare case, but still the precedent has a place to be, therefore it is worth considering the procedure for such a problem.
Two options for the same situation
First It is that when trying to start the machine on the screen, the key icon and the engine stalls. But after several attempts still start and for some time no problems arise, until the next time.
Second The option is even worse - the "key" on the scoreboard lights up, but after it is already impossible to start the car from any time. Neither the removal of the terminal, nor attempts to start the car with the second key.
Immediately it is worth saying that such rare problems arise, as a rule, in a warranty period of car service, in the first 5-10 thousand car runs. That is, you will not pay for repair. It's a good news.
But there is bad. First, if your Skoda Yeti after an enna attempt still started, I advise you to immediately go to the service. Because the next time the car can no longer work and have to get to the service already on the evacuator.
Secondly, the reason for this problem in the immobilizer unit, which will be required to be replaced. And to order the larva of the ignition lock with the immobilizer unit will most likely in the Czech Republic, so the replacement time can be stretched for a month. Here is the biggest inconvenience in this situation.
The only thing that can be advised with this situation - do not forget to demand feed car At the repair of your Skoda Yeti. After all, not in all families more than one car, but to stay without a car for a month - very uncomfortable.
And I repeat, with such a problem there were extremely few owners of the Czech SUV.
