I got from the nephew that's such radio-controlled machine toy. Radius of action is only about 15 meters, a weak electronic part, i.e. I barely turn the front wheels and very little pulls the drive.
From nothing to do decided not much to pump this radio-controlled machine. Plowing in the covers found a receiver 40 MHz and two seats, one HS-311 in working condition and one powerful digital MG946R with a burnt engine. The HS-311 has adapted to the steering wheel in replacing the native, silent design, and MG946R took only an electronic control board. For the place of the server, the server connected the traction engine of the radio-controlled machine, and the reservoir resistor 4.70 soldered into the place of the server.
Setting up radio-controlled typewriter
The converted radio-controlled toy when the transmitter is first turned on, begins to turn the wheels to stop them, it is necessary:
- Serving Gas Connect in 2 channel (RV channel)
- Configure if you need a reverse channel
- Strong resistor to stop the rotation of the wheels
Further off expanents (we put 100% on gas), costs and trimming steering wheel. I used 5 NICD batteries, converted radio-controlled machine Hurried powerful and yurkaya. It was not without any problems, the native traction engine was weak, he heats greatly and stinks, I think not long to live for him. And in general, the remake succeeded, now the machine goes from under the console
Buy a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. Both car, and train, and helicopter, and quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will present you two detailed instructions.
Model number 1: What will we need?
To create this radio-controlled model, you will need:
- Machine model (you can even take the usual Chinese from the market).
- Arua car.
- Solenoid opening the doors of the car VAZ, battery 2400 a / h, 12 V.
- Cut rubber.
- Radiator.
- Electro measuring instruments.
- Soldering iron, to it - solder, as well as plumbing tools.
- Reducer.
- Collector engine (for example, from a toy helicopter).
Model №1: Instructions for creating
And now we proceed to create with your own hands of the radio-controlled machine:
Model number 2: Required components
To create a car you will need:
- Car model.
- Spare parts from an unnecessary collectible typewriter, printer (gears, traction, iron drives).
- Copper tubes (sold in construction stores).
- Soldering iron.
- Automal.
- Bolts.
- Required electronics.
- Battery.
Model number 2: Creating a device
We start to make your own hands a radio-controlled machine:
In conclusion, imagine one of the drawings for radio-controlled models of machines - a receiver schema.
The self-made radio-controlled car is a reality. Of course, from scratch it will not work it - develop your experience on simpler models.
Becoming the happy owner of a powerful and reliable toy controlled at a distance - the dream is not only many children, but also some parents. Today manufacturers are ready to offer a variety of entertainment that can surprise even the most sophisticated young consumers. Technique on radio control can become an excellent gift, and when it is properly operation, it is capable of listening for quite a long time.
Among the large number of models, gasoline cars on radio control deserve separate attention, since the power and reliability indicators are among the highest. On the peculiarities of these popular toys, their technical characteristics and species further and will be discussed.
What is a gasoline machine on remote control?
First of all, it is worth saying that such a product is practically complete, but only a reduced copy of the usual vehicle. These machines also go on gasoline, while the maximum speed values \u200b\u200bare really impressive: some models easily accelerate to 80 km / h. However, it will not be noted that such mechanisms periodically require repair, as well as ordinary cars, therefore, to the process of driving, it should be approached with all seriousness.
Of course, it is not recommended to use such toys in the room, since it is possible to estimate all their potential only on open areas, for example, on asphalt tracks.
The main characteristics of gasoline machines on radio control
The varieties of these models there are many: it is cars for highway races, and buggy, and samples intended solely for drift, which will be discussed a little later. This or that typewriter on radio control with a gasoline engine has its own characteristics.
So, a distinctive feature of these models is the remote. In samples on the radio control, its maximum interaction radius is usually about 150 m.
Another unique detail is a gasoline engine, the power of which can be different. From what type of motor is installed in a particular model, the scope of its operation depends.
If we compare gasoline machines on radio control in size, it can be safely distinguished both children's reduced products and large toys that will be more suitable for adult lovers of such equipment.
What should the choice of gasoline radio-controlled machine depend on?
In order for the acquired technique to deliver only joy, it is necessary to pre-carefully examine the entire range of products and stay at the most suitable. Selecting the machine for the child, it is necessary to be guided first of all its age, but it is also worth thinking about how it will use the toy. If the main requirement for the product is the speed, then it is best to choose a high-speed sample, and an off-road model is ideal for overcoming obstacles.
The younger child, the easier it should be control. It is better to abandon the acquisition of highly sensitive devices so that the master of the typewriter has experienced problems. At the same time, attention should be paid to the size of the product, since some gasoline cars on radio control are quite voluminous, which can be quite uncomfortable for a small child. Large models are the perfect option for adults.
Proper operation of gasoline machine on remote control
In order for such a toy to serve as long as possible, it is required to accommodately approach its content. Do not forget that the child can cope with such technique is very problematic, so it is better if an adult is always near. Of course, all repair and preventive work (replacement of fuel, oil, lubrication of parts, etc.) should also be carried out by parents not only because of the risk of equipment breakdown, but also because the fuel harmful couples are dangerous for the children's body.
Many gasoline cars on radio control are sold unchanged, so in the process of assembling such products it is extremely important to be guided by the attached instructions. In addition, security rules exclude any games near the sources of fire and open reservoirs.
Characteristics and advantages of radio controlled drift machines
As mentioned earlier, the technique on the fuel operating from the remote control may differ depending on its purpose. So, consumers are widely popular with gasoline machines for drift on radio control. These models like both adults and children, and their difference from ordinary high-speed toys is the following technical characteristics:
- such gasoline cars are equipped with special shock absorbers with drift springs;
- the tires of these products do not have a tread pattern and are more rigid compared to conventional models;
- as a rule, the basis of the body of such a toy is shockproof plastic, as well as a durable bumper, protecting equipment from shocks;
- the special design of the suspension allows you to perform various technical elements.
How not to make a mistake with the choice of gasoline machine for drift?
Toy cars on radio control, designed specifically for such purposes, should not buy a very small child, since the minimum age of the owner must be 3 years.
In addition, it should be remembered that there are no fully universal models. This means that by purchasing a toy typewriter for drift, you should not wait for any other properties from it like high speeds or high patency.
Another important point is the type of embedded engine. Used to drift a gasoline machine on a radio control (a photo of various samples can always be found in specialized prints) should have a very powerful motor so that the load rendered to the model did not harm it. Equipment of a new product, as a rule, implies the readiness of the toy to go without the need to purchase additional details.
The main details of the gasoline machine on remote control
Not always the parents have the opportunity to buy your child an expensive toy in the store. But if we talk about gasoline cars, then such products can be made and independently. The device of these toys largely resembles the structure of a standard car, so for many drivers the installation process will be understood.
To deal with how to make a gasoline machine on a radio control, initially need to decide which details for this work will be needed. So, the set of standard toys includes the following structural parts:
- shockproof body;
- gasoline engine of the desired power;
- strong wheels;
- chassis;
- a set of tools in the form of different screwdrivers.
Features assembly
Gasoline cars on radio control do it yourself easy to make. After the acquisition of the necessary materials should be done on installation.
Attaching the front wheels to the frame, you need to make sure that they are easily rotated. Tires are best choosing rubber, since it is this material that has the highest possible adhesion with the roadpapers.
The body for the machine can be simply purchased in the store, but many owners want to create a unique toy and come up with their own sketch of the case, which is subsequently manufactured using a specialist.
Selecting the control radio roll, should not save on it, since the quality of this part does not directly affect the convenience of controlling the vehicle.
Of course, one of the most important components of the machine is its engine. Gasoline samples require careful care, but their capacity indicators are the highest.
Thus, it is safe to say that it is possible to collect the machine on the radio control, which is functioning with the help of fuel, it is quite possible, the main thing is to have a desire for this and the entire list of details.
The idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a radio-controlled car arose a long time ago. But the embodiment of this idea in plastic and metal all the time there were some objective reasons. First, the complete lack of experience in the design and construction of such a model (my hobby aircodelism, and the device and the work of some nodes of automodels, types of materials used, engines, batteries, gearbox selection, etc. I represented very foggy). Secondly, the complete lack of literature on this subject. Thirdly, the lack of components (engines, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). To surprise, the last problem was resolved quickly and simply. I work at the computing center, and the guys who know about my passion of models, somehow gave me some written off printing mechanisms from printers and drives on magnetic tapes. Of all these "glands" I managed to choose a few pairs of gears with a different gear ratio, several shafts made of high-quality steel for axes and small bearings. It was also quite simple with the literature: I revised all the magazines "Model-Designer" in myself and in the library, and found some interesting articles for me. To begin with, it was decided to build the most simple model (without differential, without depreciation, without bearings, the engine - from the mechanism of blocking the lock of the automotive door, the power supply is 8-10 SC-0.55 A / H batteries).
After more close acquaintance with the catalog and models of Tamiya, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop drawings again. Due to the rather high complexity of the nodes of branded models (almost all parts of the cast and complex configuration), transmission containing many parts, low strength and wear resistance of the mechanisms (I ask you to take into account that this is my subjective opinion) Design the all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis I don't even had tried. The prototype served as a chassis from the Formula 1 model; The model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet glasskestolite, steel, duralumin, caprolacts, microporous rubber. The differential did according to the description in the "modelist-designer", the front suspension is similar to the branded, but from the glassstolite, the regulator is homemade, mechanical. During the operation, some nuances have arisen that I was not satisfied. First, the complete unprotected of the wheels from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension levers several times and a couple of times the axis of the rear axle. Secondly, a very dense layout of mechanisms under a body of small volume, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of nodes. Thirdly, the material was unsuccessful for the details of the differential, and his work was not satisfied with me.
Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience of creating and operating such models, a slightly different chassis variant was developed. The changes affected mainly the type of chassis (for closed body), layouts of nodes, some details of the differential, the protection knot. I am pretty difficult to give an objective assessment to my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to Tamiya models chassis more speed (though, the comparison was performed visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard execution, without additional options). Details and mechanisms are simpler than branded, in the event of a breakdown, easily restored or repaired.
Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with brand components (wheels, differential items, etc.). But I think that by changing the size and configuration of some details of the front suspension and the rear axle, it is quite possible to apply standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., manufactured by firms. In addition, changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the database and a chassis king, that is, make the chassis under any body of a closed type. Well, finally, the chassis cost me not $ 200 plus about the same on tuning (maybe somewhere prices and lower, but we have such).
In this material, I do not want to remake the merits and achieve model products manufacturing companies, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and components to them or qualify for novelty ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the magazine "Model-designer", however, I sometimes used other materials, something changed and modified, taking into account those details that I had. In general, I did it, I bring to your attention.
Brief technical characteristic
| Type of chassis | rearbed |
| Base | 260 mm |
| Width on the rear wheels | 200 mm |
| Width of the forward wheels | 188 mm |
| Ground clearance | 14 mm |
| Mass chassis | 700 g |
| Type of transmission | Single-stage open gearbox; K \u003d 1: 4.2 or K \u003d 1: 4.5 |
| engine's type | Mabuchi 540, Speed \u200b\u200b600 different modifications |
| Front suspension | Independent, amortization - fiberglass plate |
| Rear suspension | Dependent, amortization - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper |
| Batteries | 7,2 VX1400MA / H Plus 4.8VX260MA / H for onboard equipment |
Design Description
The base of chassis
Functionally, the chassis consists of three main nodes: the base of the chassis, the rear axle with the depreciation system and the front suspension with the depreciation system and the protective coupling. The base of the chassis part 1, carved from a fibercister with a thickness of 2.5 mm. This part is installed in the corresponding sidewalls 3 and 4, which form a box-penalty for the placement of power batteries. After installing these parts, the compound site is degreased and spilled by epoxy resin. On racks 5 (duralumin material or aluminum alloy) mounted "second floor" chassis 2, on which the steering machines, the stroke knobs, the nodes of fastening the oil shock absorber and the protective coupling of the steering wheel machine are placed. It should be noted that the grooves of the parts 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewall 3 (these places are not sampled!). This design in the assembled form increases the strength of the battery box. Brackets 6 are installed before the rear wheels, which play the role of protective "ears" and, in addition, the body fastening pins are installed. In the front of the body chassis, you can be attached to similar pins installed in the bumper-bumper area. The configuration of the bumper depends on the nasal part of the prototype and in the drawings is not shown. Also not shown the place of attachment of the body pins. Their location depends on the control of the prototype hood. Due to the fact that the fiberglass is inferior to the strength of the carbon plate, the relief windows are cut out only in the details that form a box for a power battery.
Rear axle with depreciation system
The rear axle is made as a single light-duty node, which increases the convenience of repair and preventive work. The base of the bridge (see section A-A) is a fiberglass plate 3 with a thickness of 2.5 mm (duralumin 2 mm thick can be applied). It is mounted to it M3 screws 1 and a left-wheel stand 2, made of duralumin with a thickness of 6 mm. On top of the same screws, the upper frame of the rear axle is screwed up 4. Bearing glasses 5 are fastened to the motor and rack and 6 (left). Right isted from steel and brought to the sizes shown in the drawing; The left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,
closed type. The axis 20 connecting the rear wheels is made of a rod steel with a diameter of 6 mm. At the place of installation of the left wheel in the axis, the hole M2.5 is made under the pin. In the left wheel hub 17 propylene groove width 2.5 mm. When the wheel is installed on the axis, the pin is included in the cutting hub and thus prevents the wheel to turn the axis. The right wheel is associated with the driven gear 11 (on the drawing, the gear showing the gear, which I found, right - it is after refinement) through the ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the cylindrical inserting slots 10 (cylindrical insertion is connected to the gear six screws M1.5; holes for screws are drilled around the circle with a diameter of 37 mm after 60o; inserted bronze sliding bearing 12) . On both sides of the coupling compressed with steel tempered washers 9 (size washers 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is pasted into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the stop disk 8. Landing the stop disk on the axis is carried out through the split bronze sleeve 7. For the perception of axial efforts from the pressure of the balls, the thrust ball bearing 15 (made of steel bar; after the groove of the groove under Balls details hardened). Adjusting the force in the coupling is performed by tightening the nut with the Kapron liner 19. To prevent axial displacements on the axis 20, the sleeve 21 is installed, which is fixed on the axis screw M3. The wheel of the wheel 13 and the left disk 16 are made out of caprolactam; Two bronze sliding bearings are pressed into the right hub 14. Tires of wheels are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial backlash, the remote washer 18 is served.
The rear axle is hanging on the base of the chassis through a fiberglass shock absorber 22 with three screws M3. On the basis of the chassis, this part is fixed with a screw M4 and a clamping washer 23, which is screwed into the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the friction depreciation node. The latter consists of carbon friction piles 25 and springs. Friction force is regulated by moving along the axis of the sleeve 27, the fixation of which is carried out by screw M3. The bottom support of 26 spring is based on an additional spring strip 28, which is installed on the rack 29 on the base of the chassis 1.
To clean the oscillations arising from the operation of the suspension, a damping spring is installed - oil shock absorber. It is attached to the part 2 using a duralumin bracket (node \u200b\u200bI). With the upper frame of the rear axle 4, the shock absorber is connected by a ball hinge (node \u200b\u200bII).
Front suspension
The front suspension was originally simplified (cross section of Mr.), and consisted of top and bottom planks 1 of the foil glassstolite, connected to the racks 2 and the chassis 1 streaming through the rubber washers (node \u200b\u200bIII). The swivel lever was the details 3, 4, 5, assembled into one node using a soldering. The depreciation was carried out using a spring and the movement of the part 3 along the axis 6. On the axis 6 there are grooves for castle washers. In the wheel disk 8, two bronze sliding bearing 9 were clicked.
But I didn't like such a suspension, and with the help of the article from the magazine "Model-Designer", another suspension was developed and manufactured (parts are shown in the drawing to the right of the red barcode) The base is the base 1 assembled from parts 1a, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Details 1b are glued to 1a, for greater strength, it is pulled by screws M2; Detail 2 is screwed by screws M2. The lower lever of the suspension 3 consists of a base of 3b and two sidewalls 3a (a fibercker with a thickness of 2 mm); After fitting and assembling joints, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy resin. The top lever 4 consists of an earrings 4a, forks 4B and 4B axis. Material for earrings and
plugs - Duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 using axes 15; At its places, the axes are fixed with the castle washers 16. With the help of the same axis, a peregnery rack 5 is fastened to the lower lever (the detail of the factory manufacture, but it is quite possible to be made of duralumin, a bit of simplifier). To the upper lever 4, the rack 5 is mounted using a fork 4B and M3 screw. Earring 4A is attached to the node 1 as shown in the form in (axis of rotation 15 is fixed with locking washers 16, for preventing axial offset earrings, fluoroplastic bushings 14). The swivel lever 6 represents the part of duralumin, the steel axis 7 is inserted into it with some tension, after that the vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the rotation axis 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a cloth washer.
Wheel disks 9 are sharpened from caprolactam. The hubs are 10 from duralumin, attached to the disks with three screws M2.5. Bearings - 13x6x3, closed performance. Tires of wheels - from microporous rubber.
The depreciation is carried out using a plate 11 of a fiberglass, which is pressed to the base 1b screw M3 and a duraluminum washer 12. The free ends of the plate are based on the fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are dressed on the axis 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to thickness and widths of the plate 11 pretty widely.
The protective clutch of the steering wheel is a node shown in cross section in-in. On comparison with a node published in the "Model-Designer", it is a little converted. The base is the steel axis 1, on which the part of the bronze is attached to the tension. 3. After that, in these parts, the hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is cooled and the pin is inserted and is inserted. Thus, the part 1 and 3 are tough. Rocking 4 soldes to parts 2, and the node is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axis 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in the part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the base opening 1). The second bearing is the Kapron sleeve 5, installed in the part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm per part 5 must be chosen so as to provide the minimum play of the axis 1 of the protective clutch, but at the same time, the ease of rotation of the node. The coupling is driven with a duralumin rocking chair 7.
Conclusion
A few words about the model itself. The prototype served Ferrari F40, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed on the basis of the real size of the car, on the scale of 1:10. Body - glassy biplastic, was patched on the nerd. Control equipment - Graupner FM -314, steering machines - standard 508 (similar to the sizes of HS 422 HITEC).
I tried to describe how to describe my thoughts as possible in the development and procedure for making the chassis. It is possible that some nodes could be done otherwise, apply other materials or design solutions. I want to give a small advice to those who want to repeat this model. First, it is necessary to choose components (gears, shock absorber, swivel levers, etc.; It is quite possible that it is not possible to choose the details in the dimensions specified in the drawings) and materials for homemade parts. After that, it is possible to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then begin manufacture. If someone has questions, suggestions, criticism - I will be happy to talk on the forum.
With your own hands - many this phrase is associated primarily with the jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other Handmaider tools. Make your own model from an absolute zero - pulling out each item on your own - it is really possible, but it is quite complex, time-consuming and very demanding to our own skills process. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and accessible version: how collect Radio-controlled car at home.
How it works?
Modern models on radio control can be divided into two large groups:
- RTR.Fully ready for use of the machine ,. That is, it took out the model out of the box, put the battery - and forward, on the racing;
- Kit. Supplies for advanced users: Instead of the assembled machine, a set of spare parts comes to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, collecting the model of your dream independently.
Note : A variant in which you buy all parts separately, is not much different from. You just do not use ready-made sets, but, nevertheless, you use factory parts.
Why do you need an RC model with your own hands? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, make your car unique. Moreover, the assembly of finished parts is less demanding of the skill than "work with a file".
What parts will be needed?
As a rule, if you chose some kind of Kit, then only the chassis and body included in its package. Additionally need ( we consider the option with an electric machine):
- Engine;
- Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
- Wheels;
- Battery;
- Disks, inserts, etc.
Ultimately, it all depends on the specific set for the assembly of the radio-controlled model of the machine with their own hands: in some, for example, there is no body, and it is purchased separately.
Is it difficult to collect Kit?
It is at the stage of assembling Kit'a difficulties usually does not occur: the details are numbered, it includes a detailed instruction to them - do everything neatly, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise at combining the chassis with the rest of the components, so we advise you again: before buying the engine and other spare parts carefully Explore the selected Kit and its characteristics. A great choice will be read themed forums: certainly someone worked with this kit - and most likely, this someone willingly share experiences.
Plastic or aluminum?
The answer to this question largely depends on what brand is we talking about, but about it below. If you compare "in vacuum" - and good Plastic S. good Aluminum - the picture looks like this:
- Plastic: Lighter, it is better to shove the blow, restores the form after the collisions. But, at the same time, if the plastic is too strong, plastic cracks and breaks, it will be fixed almost unrealistic - the item is under replacement. In addition, on plastic parts, the seating of shafts and bearings, which occurs, because of what the backlays occur - it is necessary to change the item again;
- Aluminum. It is possible to repair and is practically not deformed over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually rather fragile and literally scattered at the level of load level, which will not even notice high-quality plastic. And it is about the same.
Spare parts manufacturers
You can highlight the three most interesting brands:
- RPM.The best plastic on the market. Ideal quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what you need to make your own hands with a uninstalled RC model. The deficiencies of the brand are only two: high price and obvious sharpening for American cars like, on the "Chinese" spare parts RPM, most likely not to put;
- Integy. Aluminum details, good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal plastic, it is quite possible to think about choosing this brand. Well, yes: Aluminum looks cool!
- Pro-Line. Another excellent one - and quite universal - brand. The optimal choice, if you are going to work not with American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a bunch of awards, a very wide range and acceptable pricing policy.
General conclusions for machines in managing their own hands
If you carefully follow the instructions and do not rush, there is nothing sophisticated in the self-assembly of the RC model. The main thing is to use high-quality components from the well-known brand, they fall into their seats trouble-free. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, after having received the first experience, lay the Castoma bar.
