Summer has passed, the cycling season is closing, it’s time to take stock. I bring to your attention a review of a slightly advanced wireless computer with a cadence sensor and heart rate monitor
But unfortunately I got into a small accident and broke my arm and the bike computer I was reviewing. After licking the wounds, I had to choose a new one.
The choice fell on a relatively inexpensive cycling computer from AliExpress. I was impressed by the presence of a cadence sensor and a heart rate monitor.
What is cadence
Cadence - from the English cadens (ˈkeɪdəns) - a word denoting in a general sense rhythm, tempo; in cycling it means pedaling frequency, the number of pedal revolutions per minute.
A very important indicator for those who do not want to kill their joints
The order was placed, I paid $18.47 with delivery (Attention!!! Now the price has changed!!!), the parcel arrived in a non-rubber box quickly, in 10 days. The packaging was standard - a bag, and inside there was a box that was a little tired from the road.
photo of the box
Equipment: 
scan of the installation manual
The installation did not take very long - the speed sensor magnet is placed on the spoke of the rear wheel, the cadence and speed sensors are attached with flagella, the cadence sensor magnet is attached with cables to the left pedal connecting rod.
photo of installed elements
speed sensor magnet 
The speed and cadence sensor consists of two sensors connected to each other. Sensor power - CR2032 
Cadence sensor magnet 
The bike computer itself can be easily installed on the handlebars in any position. Cycling computer power supply - CR2032 battery
Cycling computer on the handlebars
platform for a bicycle computer, secured with cable ties 
Backlight (turned on by long pressing button B) 
The heart rate sensor is a chest strap. To activate, you need to slightly moisten the rubber base of the sensor with water. The heart rate sensor is powered by a CR2032 battery.
photo of the cardiac sensor on the carcass
Scans of instructions
The cycling computer has two control buttons 
Button A switches configurable parameters and pages, button B changes the parameter.
When you turn on the computer, initial settings are made - time, wheel size, temperature units, age, weight, gender - for calculating calories, desired heart rate zone, etc.
Page 1 - set the circumference of bicycle wheel No. 1.
2 pages - set the environment. 2 led
Page 3 - select km/h or mph.
4 pages - age
5 pages - select kg or Lb
6 pages - weight
Page 7 - set the desired range of heart rate zones (HRM) first Hi then Low.
8 pages - select 24 hours or 12 hours the clock will show.
9 pages - Setting the current time.
10 page - set after how many km there will be a service reminder for bike No. 1
Page 11 - set after how many km there will be a service reminder for bike No. 2
12 pages - Choose Celsius or Fahrenheit
13 pages - Home screen, setup complete.
The screen has three zones. 
The upper segment is unchangeable and shows cadence, the middle segment is also unchangeable and shows speed, the lower segment can be customized and has three menus: “BIKE”, “CAD” and “HRM”.
I'll tell you more about setting up the viewing mode. Button B switches between the menus “BIKE”, “CAD” and “HRM”
There are 10 values in the “BIKE” menu:
CLOCK - shows the clock.
ODO (TOTODO-1) - distance traveled led 1
TOT (TOTALODO) - total distance traveled
DST (TRIP DISTANCE) - traveled during the trip
MXS (MAXIMUM SPEED) - maximum speed
AVS (AVEGAGE SPEED) - average speed
TM (TRIP TIME) - trip time
TEMP (TEMPERATURE) - current temperature
CAL (CALORIES BURNED) - calories burned
FAT (FAT BURNT) - fat consumed
SCAN - cycles through some of these functions.
There are 4 values in the CAD (cadence) menu
CAD (CURRIEN CADENCE) - current cadence
MAX (MAXIMUM CADENCE) - maximum cadence
AVG (AVERAGE CADENCE) - average cadence
SCAN - cycles through values
There are 6 values in the HRM menu
HRM (HR PULSE) - current heart rate
MAX (MAXIMUM HR) - maximum heart rate value
MIN (MINIMUM HR) - minimum heart rate
AVG (AVERAGE HR) - average heart rate
ZONE(H***;L***) - parameters of the specified training range of heart rate zones, first the highest value then the lowest value.
SCAN - iterates through values.
A few more “tricks”:
* Settings are reset by long pressing buttons A and B
* If you need to reset HRM values other than ZONE, you need to long press button A (right) in the HRM menu,
* ZONE must be reset separately in the ZONE menu, long press A.
* One interesting thing is that switching between Vel1 and Vel2 is a quick press of 2 buttons.
* If you press A for a long time in CLOCK mode, you can set the clock without resetting.
*TRIP DST, AVS and TRIP TIME can be reset to 0 by long pressing A in DST mode.
* If in ODO mode you long press A, then you can first adjust the circumference of 1 bicycle, then the second, then ODO 1 bicycle (5 values in the format ****.*, that is, the maximum is 9999.9 km) and then ODO 2 bicycle.
* Long press on B turns on the backlight
I traveled with him for two months. Everything works and functions. There was a nuance with the cardiac sensor - there was a problem, the cardiac sensor killed the battery to zero within half an hour of driving. I contacted the seller and asked about the heart rate sensor. The seller promised to send a working heart rate sensor. After some time, a working cardiac sensor arrived, all questions about it were resolved.
CONCLUSIONS
I'm happy with the purchase, the seller surprised me with his honesty, the bike computer is functioning. Made qualitatively, soundly, has a beautiful appearance
Important to me pros:
- wireless design (I don’t like wires and cables)
-cardio sensor for monitoring the training zone and cadence sensor
- auto-start when the wheel rotates
- backlight
- temperature
- no interference from flashlights or other electronic sources
- informing about low sensor battery
- informing about the need to service the bike after a certain distance traveled
Minuses:
- you need to moisten the cardiac sensor with water or ECG gel before starting training
- only one window can be configured
- a little complicated menu
The product was purchased with my own money. I wish everyone good and happiness!!! Take care of yourself!!!
Cadence for cyclists is the number of pedal revolutions per minute that a cyclist makes while riding.
The optimal cadence depends both on the cyclist’s own feelings and on his age, weight, physiological characteristics and training, the type of bicycle and pedals, in particular, riding style and speed, incline, nature of the surface, and so on.
Of course, the pedaling speed needs to be changed depending on the circumstances: at the start (to warm up the muscles) and at low temperatures (to avoid damaging them), it should be high enough. But on average, the comfortable cadence of a cyclist is from 80 to 100 rpm - these are the numbers that are recommended to beginners as a standard; at this speed, the cyclist produces maximum power with minimal energy costs.
However, many experienced cyclists, in the process of active riding, come to their optimal figure on their own, and even deliberately reduce the cadence to pump their muscles more strongly and adjust to the desired heart rate.
If you're a hobbyist and don't ride often, you don't have to ride at a perfect 80+ rpm. Slightly lower values are acceptable, for example 70.
In order to measure cadence, you need to time 1 minute and count the number of revolutions made (which is labor-intensive and dangerous). Or you can purchase a special one, which will take into account not only the mileage traveled, time and speed of travel, but also this important indicator. The cadence sensor consists of two parts: a cadence sensor, which is mounted on the bicycle frame, and a magnet on the crank.
Why is optimal cadence so important?
A beginner will ask: what difference does it make whether you pedal slowly or quickly? But there really is a difference. Try to drive on level ground at first speed - you will hardly move from a standstill, and you will spend an enormous amount of energy - the number of revolutions per minute will be very high. And vice versa, try to drive up a mountain on a big star - if you succeed, it will be with great difficulty, it will be simply impossible to pedal.
Low cadence - dead knees!
First of all, cadence is important because of the harmful stress on the knee joints that occurs when pedaling too slowly. The knees are the most painful part of the body in cycling, as they are subject to prolonged and unnatural stress for a person.
When the cadence is low, you need to constantly press on the pedals, and because of this, the muscles very soon become clogged - it is extremely difficult to ride. Moreover, slow pedaling with strong pressure on the pedals not only contributes to knee pain and muscle congestion, but can also cause serious diseases - arthritis and arthrosis, which can be “earned” by improper cycling.
This is especially important for beginners to know, who, due to inexperience, can easily “kill” their knees: it seems to them that by pedaling with great force they are shaking their legs, but in reality they are clogging their muscles and slowly killing their joints!
If this problem is not relevant for rare “rides” over short distances around the city, then for those who decide to engage in bicycle tourism or participate in marathons, this is extremely important. Do not lower the cadence below 60 rpm.
Pedal... Fast?
It would seem that everything is simple: pedal as quickly as possible, and there will be no such problems. But not everything is so simple: with rapid rotation, energy is used irrationally, since the forces expended on such a large number of revolutions do not produce proportional speed. And if you don’t use it, your feet keep slipping, which can cause a fall or just a strong blow to your foot with the pedal - not pleasant.
In cycling circles, it is believed that the ability to maintain a high cadence is a sign of a professional athlete, since pedaling quickly and efficiently is really difficult.
How to increase cadence?
If you somehow measure the cadence and realize that it is low, there is only one solution: select a lower gear in such sections and pedal faster. At first it will be unusual: it seems that you are spinning “idle” and you do not feel the usual tension in the muscles. But once you get used to it, both your knees and your bike will thank you for their durability. Another option is to instill in yourself the habit of pedaling not constantly, but in small batches - this way the load on the joints will be less.
If you can’t achieve the recommended speed (from 80 to 100), you can try contact pedals or (as a more budget-friendly option) special straps for regular pedals - toe clips. This will not only relieve your knees, but also increase efficiency.
Also, do not forget about the pedaling technique - press the pedal at the top and pull it up at the back, and not just push the pedal with your entire foot for a whole revolution.
This video shows how crazy fast the pros can pedal:
The ability to choose the right cadence is an extremely important thing both for beginners who take a responsible approach to the health of their joints, and for experienced cyclists. This is one of those indicators that a cyclist simply needs to track in order to record his athletic growth.
In short, so as not to “kill” your knees. For more details, read on.
The cadence sensor, or cadence sensor, is an integral part of cycling training. Any cyclist will confirm. True, some of them will say that you can count it yourself: take a minute and go - count it.
This opinion is partly based on the fact that the price of cadence sensors used to be part of cycling computers, and a cycling computer was (and still is) quite expensive. True, they began to produce separate cadence sensors a long time ago, which are not so expensive.
Why do you need a cadence sensor?
Optimal cadence is an opportunity to strengthen and maintain health. Pedaling speed is developed individually over time, but if you are not yet at the “professional” stage, then you can find basic recommendations online: from 80 to 100 rpm. These numbers are considered optimal in terms of stress on the joints and energy consumption.
Low cadence is bad for your knees! If you dare to test this at first speed on a flat road, then pay attention to how often you pedal: the load on the muscles is prohibitive, the energy consumption is colossal! There is a risk of falling off the bike, not getting off.
For those who climb on a bicycle from time to time, it is generally not recommended to lower the readings on the cadence sensor below 60 rpm, so as not to provoke muscle congestion, diseases such as arthritis, arthrosis and related ones.
Is it possible to reduce pedal rotation?
Strictly over time. Professional athletes achieve optimal heart rate and energy expenditure by reducing cadence.
Maximum cadence
The cadence sensor may go off scale, but you won’t be able to achieve this the first time you ride a bike. Yes, and here, too, there are pitfalls: you can simply crash. If, after all, you do not plan to participate in the Olympic Games, then you should not play with the indicator: focus on the average numbers and take care of your knees.
Which cadence sensor should I buy?
Despite the fact that technically the pedaling sensor is a simple device, you should trust brands that have already proven themselves among professional athletes.
Hello Geektimes!
I'll tell you how you can use a regular cycling computer as a cadence sensor.
There are more questions on this topic on the Internet than answers.
And even before I start, I will say that, if possible, it is worth buying a ready-made cycling computer with a cadence sensor rather than blocking such a collective farm as described in the article. Personally, I was bored and had an extra bike computer lying around.
First off, what is cadence? Cadence- this is the pedaling frequency, the number of pedal revolutions per minute.
Why know your cadence? It is important to know cadence because there is an optimal pedaling speed - it is between 80 and 110 rpm. This is a fairly high pedaling speed - this allows you to ride in a lower gear, with less effort, as a result there is less pressure on the joints, and also less stress on the muscles. This is especially important for beginners - the strength may be enough to pedal with much more effort than necessary, and ruin your health.
In my case, to create a cadence sensor, I used a bicycle computer that was lying around, with a broken reed switch (the same thing that is attached to the bicycle fork)
old cycling computer
I had to restore that same faulty reed switch - I simply cut it off from the wire leading to the bike computer and soldered a purchased regular reed switch instead. If the sensor in your cycling computer works, then, of course, you don’t need to do anything. (but may require extending the sensor wire)
old sensor - reed switch
new sensor - a regular industrial reed switch, glued to a piece of plywood and filled with hot glue from a glue gun
installing a sensor on the feather and a magnet on the connecting rod
Now all that’s left is to just run the wire from the sensor to the computer and install it on the steering wheel.
In addition to the “cadence sensor” (white), I also have a regular cycling computer installed.
One question still remains - how to configure the bike computer so that the readings from it are adequately read as readings from the cadence sensor?
Very simple. It is enough to enter the tire circumference equal to 1666. (Any cycling computer has a wheel setting).
Specifically, in this bicycle computer - BCP-22, you can enter any wheel circumference length, starting from 4999 mm, down to 1 mm.
Now the cycling computer readings, multiplied by 10, will be equal to your cadence. For example, 7.5 mph is equal to a cadence of 75 rpm. Thank you for your attention.
Details
Runtastic Speed and Cadence Sensor Review
On the eve of 2014, the Austrian company Runtastic presented a new product in the segment of sports gadgets - Speed & Cadence Sensor. The speed and cadence sensor from Runtastic is capable of real competition with the most sophisticated cycling computers at a minimum of financial costs. The Medgadgets company offers to buy a Runtastic speed and cadence sensor, the price of which includes a full set of guarantees and professional support.
The Runtastic speed and cadence sensor is designed for cyclists. Sensors allow you to determine the speed at which the cyclist is moving and the number of pedal revolutions made per minute. Pedaling frequency (cadence) is an indicator that allows you to optimize energy consumption, minimize the load on the joints and eliminate muscle injuries. For owners of the Runtastic speed and cadence sensor, a review of statistical data will help avoid premature fatigue, maintain a physiologically stable back position and increase endurance.
Runtastic speed and cadence sensor specifications
When developing the Speed & Cadence Sensor, Runtastic engineers focused on accessibility and ease of use. You can buy a Runtastic speed and cadence sensor in the online store medgadgets.ru for less than one hundred dollars. Especially for Medgadgets customers, the price of the Runtastic speed and cadence sensor includes the ability to use a personal code to receive a three percent discount.
When paired with a smartphone, Runtastic's Speed & Cadence Sensor provides the owner with a full range of information about driving speed and pedaling. The principle of operation of the sensors is extremely simple. The delivery set includes two magnets - one for the wheel and one for the connecting rod, a rubber retainer, a clamp made of durable plastic and printed instructions for the Runtastic speed and cadence sensor.
The touch speed sensor is installed on the lower bicycle seat using clamps. The magnet is attached to the wheel spoke so that it is exactly opposite the speed sensor. The more often the rotation, the faster the speed. The wheel size can be calibrated in the application settings.
Before installing the cadence sensor, first remove the pedal to attach a magnet to the crank arm, positioning it opposite the cadence sensor. Each time a magnet passes by the sensor, the sensor detects it and records one full rotation.
The magnets should be installed as close to the touch sensor as possible, but at the same time not touching it. The distance from the sensor to the magnet recommended by the developers should be 4-5 mm. The manufacturer's official website contains a detailed video review of Runtastic speed and cadence sensors, which discusses in detail the sensor installation options and usage features. Speed & Cadence Sensor is waterproof and complies with the international R&TTE (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) declaration of conformity.
Speed & Cadence Sensor is powered by a replaceable lithium battery. The price of Runtastic speed and cadence sensors includes a 3V, 0.5mA CR2032 battery. The battery does not recharge. Once the charge is depleted, you must replace the battery with a new one of the same type. The instructions included with the Runtastic speed and cadence sensors contain a complete list of official specifications and technical characteristics of the device.
Replacement batteries for Runtastic speed and cadence sensors can be purchased separately. The battery is replaced manually without the use of special tools. The battery compartment is opened using a regular coin by turning it counterclockwise. After removing the old battery and installing a new one, taking into account the polarity, so that the “+” is on top, the compartment is closed and secured with a coin rotated clockwise. The tightly closed compartment prevents moisture and dirt from getting inside.
The inherent hardware characteristics of Runtastic speed and cadence sensors allow statistics on driving speed and cadence per minute to be transmitted to a smartphone via Bluetooth wireless protocol. Mobile devices that support Bluetooth Smart and Bluetooth Smart ready technology are compatible with the gadget.
Before starting work, the user must download, install and activate the Runtastic application for speed and cadence sensors. The price of the Runtastic Bike program is included in the price of the kit. The sensors are activated by applying magnets to the speed sensor and pedaling sensor. In the application interface, the user needs to define sensors using the “Sensors - Bluetooth Smart” menu items. A successful activation is indicated by the color of the symbols in the application interface changing from orange to green. The sensors are activated once. The Runtastic Bike application settings provide several cases when re-activation may be required:
Key Features
Compatibility:
- Bluetooth® Smart data transfer to iPhone 4s/5/5s/5c/6/6 Plus
- Bluetooth® Smart Ready Android™ devices running Android 4.3 and above
Compatible Applications:
Weight: 197 g
The presentation of the device includes a significant amount of visual materials, with the help of which you can form your opinion about the gadget in general, and about the operation of applications, and about other details related to the operation of the device. In the Runtastic Cadence Sensor review, we are trying to add photos and videos that would help reveal the features of working with the gadget.
