Suhr Riot is a full-fledged distortion pedal, suitable for working in all styles (in my opinion). It is responsive to dynamics, far from the cheapest (one of the good reasons to do it yourself), although of course it is not a harsh boutique. The most important discovery for me was the sound of different types of amplifiers.
It sounds in everything (!) (well, or almost everything, 99.9%), in all amplifiers! At least in tube stacks, at least in tube combos of different power, at least in a 10-watt transistor, at least in a transistor with a higher power. In all cases, we get a readable dynamic sound in any style, be it rock and roll or some fierce metal in the C tuning. Quite a rough comparison, but it is true.
Preface
When the decision was made to assemble this device, I, without thinking twice, took the first signet I came across (a drawing of a printed circuit board) on Google, actually in the form of a picture, with labels of parts and the like.
It was a long time ago, I didn’t really understand the hardware and in general the process of creating the board and the device as a whole, so I thought that the board drawing was 1 to 1. But knowledgeable people helped, they made it clear that no, not 1 to 1. They helped me redraw it, it seems in P -CADe.
Simply put, I made this board where I did my internship, at the factory, in general, which I was very happy about, because everything turned out very high quality. But not everything turned out to be so rosy - after soldering everything necessary for work, it turned out that there was extremely little overload. I looked for mistakes in the diagram and couldn’t find them. I wrote on one forum and received some recommendations. Did not help. And then, out of nowhere, someone not from Russia answers this topic. In Russian, but Google Translate is clearly visible. He writes that the diagram is incorrect, here is a link to a foreign forum, where they have sorted it all out to the smallest detail.
For some reason I was unable to register on this forum, which is what I answered to this friend. And he ended up sending an archive of materials, which I will eventually publish here with comments, especially since I haven’t seen any review articles on assembling this pedal in Russian.
So, the scheme
This requires a three-position ON-ON-ON toggle switch with 6 contacts, which I did not find in our city, so I made a slightly simplified version, but, apparently, not entirely correct in terms of switching modes. This circuit differs only in the lower stage with a toggle switch (the so-called clipping module). 
This option requires a three-position ON-OFF-ON toggle switch with 3 contacts, which are available even in small radio kiosks. Please note that this module is made on a separate scarf.
This execution, judging by the comments, is not entirely correct, and the modes actually switch somewhat strangely; 2 out of 3 generally seem to be the same. Although I hardly touch this toggle switch. 
And the most important thing is that all these materials contained a divorced signet on a scale of 1 to 1. My circuit design is not good and I would hardly be able to route the circuit correctly quickly. And I wanted it faster.
Everything is mirrored and ready to use. The file is called “clipping module.pdf”, print 1 to 1. So, we make the board using the LUT (laser iron) method. There are a lot of reviews of this method on the Internet, so I’ll describe it briefly.
We will need:
- Foil-coated textolite, foiled on one side.
- Ferric chloride (as brown powder).
- Glossy paper. They say it is suitable for photo printing (namely glossy, not matte!!!), but it is also suitable from some magazines. I have already torn out pages from the magazine about musical equipment “IN/OUT” more than once. Everything prints well on it.
- Laser printer.
- Hacksaw.
- An iron (preferably one that is not used to iron clothes in your home; there is a possibility of damaging its surface. It is, of course, cleaned, but there is little good. But if there is only such and such, a clean A4 sheet placed between the iron and the board drawing attached will partially help to the textolite blank.).
- A container that you don’t mind is better than plastic and durable.
- Alcohol, acetone.
- Old toothbrush.
- Sandpaper.
- Soldering iron, solder, flux (if the solder is rosin-free. From fluxes: liquid rosin, soldering acid)
- Mini drill, set of drills 0.6-1 mm.
- Marker for writing on CDs.
We print the image of the boards on glossy paper using a laser printer. If this is your first time doing something like this, it’s better to make a couple of copies, just in case. Cut it out. We saw off the workpieces of the required size with a hacksaw; it is better to saw off with a margin of 2-3 millimeters.
If you plan to mount a large board to the case on stands, then provide this distance for screws accordingly (add 6-7 millimeters to the workpiece on its two sides).
Step 1: Stripping the PCB
We clean the copper-coated surface with sandpaper. Without fanaticism, so as not to completely tear off the layer. Then degrease with alcohol.
Step 2: transfer the circuit to the board
We attach the printed drawings of the boards with a pattern to the copper layer of the textolite blank. We go through the iron 3-5 times. Here, only by experience can you determine how many times you need to iron it with your iron so that the design does not spread (like on one of my boards), but at the same time it prints well. Therefore, I recommend printing out the drawings with a reserve.
Next, take and pour warm or hot water into a container and throw these blanks there. We soak for about 15 minutes and carefully begin to clean off the paper with an old toothbrush. You can rub it with your fingertips - the main thing is not to tear off the design.
As you can see, the left handkerchief turned out disgustingly; I overexposed the iron and accidentally moved the sheet of paper with the design while “transferring” the design. Since there was no spare drawing (as well as a personal laser printer), and the drawing was not complicated, I then completed it manually with a marker on a CD. On the right board, I later retouched the spaces with the same marker.
Step 3: Etching
Pour water into a container that will contain your board blanks and add ferric chloride. In what proportions - look on the packaging. Stir. It is better to stir with something plastic or wooden, but not metal. Be careful, the resulting solution gets very dirty, especially if it is spilled on the floor.
If the solution is freshly prepared, then the etching time is 10-15 minutes. Scarves can be driven back and forth in the container to speed up the process. As a result we get this:
Let me remind you that the one on the left is drawn by hand. And in the right one I didn’t finish drawing one path. Subsequently, I installed a jumper there.
If there is acetone, then wash off the black pattern with acetone and lightly sand it again. I didn’t have acetone, so I immediately cleaned everything off with sandpaper and then degreased it with alcohol.
We tinker, we drill. I simply tinned: I moistened the board with flux, took the solder on a soldering iron, and carefully distributed it along the tracks. I drilled with a mini drill, a fairly cheap model, low-power, but it copes with the task of drilling boards. Total: 
Step 4. Soldering elements and assembling “brains”
We will need:
We solder resistors, diodes, capacitors. I strongly recommend soldering microcircuits not directly onto the board, but through sockets. Those. First we solder the sockets, and then insert the microcircuits into them. Don't forget to wash off the flux.
As an analogue of 1N34 diodes, you can take D9Zh.
The LED diodes I took were two red and one blue.
Now comes the fun part. Nuances that are not in the pictures. An attentiveness test, to put it simply.
!ATTENTION! In the area of capacitor C13 there is a place where you need to solder a jumper; after soldering all the elements, two holes will remain there. Here's how to connect them. Although this place is quite obvious.
But what is not obvious. The island in the upper central part of the board is the ground. Must be. And it needs to be connected by wire to the ground, which is connected to the power ground. Well, or to another point where there is ground on the board. Or there are two holes in the area of capacitor C10 and the volume potentiometer.
As a result, here are these two places:
This is what it looks like for me if the potentiometers are not soldered directly to the board:
Step 5: Assembling the Case
In two cases of manufacturing this pedal, I used the same case - GAINTA 0473. In one case, I soldered the pots to the board and, accordingly, the board was attached to the case with potentiometers. The seats were positioned in a “triangle” and the range of rotation was not entirely normal. In the second case, I attached the main board on stands to the case cover (the cover is on the bottom), all the pots were placed in a row at the top and their rotation range was completely standard.
In one case, the body was painted, but without varnish. As a result, the corners are pretty frayed, but it’s not very visible in the photo. The second time I did without painting, I simply engraved the inscriptions with a mini-drill with an engraving attachment.
As for the button on - off the lotion. A so-called 3PDT button with fixation, 9 contacts is required. To indicate the on-off effect, you need an LED (not super-bright! It’s very blinding if you don’t select a resistor), a 4.7 Kom resistor. This is how everything is connected: 
Well, here's what happened:
The article contains materials from a foreign forum with two versions of the clipping module and an explanation of the operation of this module.
39 3
Assembling a clone of a guitar gadget
Boss SD-1 Super Overdrive.
The article discusses the BOSS SD-1 Super Overdrive, widely known among guitarists. The physical principle of Overdrive is the same as that of Distortion, that is, the signal is distorted by limiting its amplitude. The difference is that with Overdrive the sine wave is cut not in a step, but smoothly; for clarity, see the picture below:
In general, Overdrive introduces soft clipping, shown in yellow in the picture, so the amount of distortion directly depends on how hard you “clunk” the strings, while Distortion will distort the signal regardless of its level.
Power is supplied from a 9 Volt Krona battery, or from an AC adapter. The circuit has low current consumption, approximately 6 mA. As you can see in the first picture, the circuit has three controls: level, tone and drive (distortion amount). The effect is turned on/off using a pedal, but when repeating the circuit, you can simply display a DPDT button. The LED lights up when the effect is turned on. And so, the circuit diagram of the SD-1 Super Overdrive. The initial diagram looks like this:
Everything seems to be fine, but some elements are hard to read, so the diagram had to be redrawn in the Splan7 program, this is what happened:
The circuit is assembled on a dual 4558D operational amplifier in a DIP-8 package, see the following image for its appearance and pinout:
Field effect transistor 2SK30-A, reference below:
Transistor NPN structure C1685:
If you don’t have the 2SC1685 transistor, you can try replacing it with 2SC1684, 2SC945, BC238, or in extreme cases KT3102D.
The Super Overdrive effect circuit board is designed in Sprint Layout program, the LAY view is shown below:
Photo view of the Super Overdrive SD-1 printed circuit board:
What can be improved.
● Replace electrolytic C10 1uF with metal film;
● Replace electrolytic C7 1uF with metal film;
● Replace R6 4.7 kOhm with 2.4 kOhm metal film to increase distortion;
● Replace capacitor C3 0.047 µF with a 0.1 µF metal film - increase bass;
● Replace capacitor C2 0.018 μF with a 0.1 μF metal film;
● Replace resistor R2 470 kOhm with a 620 kOhm metal film - the input resistance will increase slightly;
● To smooth out distortions, you can install an additional capacitor with a capacity of 47...51 pF in parallel with diode D4, similar to what is done in the Tube Screamer TS-9 pedal.
On one of the foreign sites it was proposed to use the junction of some kind of germanium transistor instead of the D6 diode. If this transistor is a PNP structure, then the emitter will be the anode and the base will be the cathode. According to them, the result is not bad in terms of distortion introduced by the pedal.
Photo of the pedal guts:
We hope that this information will be enough for you to make a copy of the BOSS SD-1 Super Overdrive with your own hands, but you can download all the material, including the circuit diagram, board in LAY6 format and datasheets for the elements, in one file using a direct link from our website . Archive size – 1.7 Mb. Happy designing.
If you don’t yet know what the legendary overdrive produced by DOD is, then take a look. This is a very good choice for a novice solderer.
The circuit that I chose is quite simple; elements or analogues can be found in radio stores in most cities. In addition, the attachment will contain a printed circuit board in Sprint Layot format, with which you can assemble the effect on a normal, human board.
Circuit diagram of DOD 250 with below:
The Switch 2 switch is used to switch the operation of overdrive modes between LEDs and diodes. With LEDs the sound is a little softer.
The assembled board looks like this:
This is what the printed circuit board looks like:
electrolytic capacitor 100uF (~16V) — 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 10nF (0.01 uF) - 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 4.7 uF - 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 1.5 nF - 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 47 uF - 1 pc.
Resistors constant 0.25 W :
4.7 KOhm - 2 pcs
1 MOhm - 1 piece
22 KOhm - 2 pcs.
2.4 KOhm - 1 piece
470 KOhm - 1 piece
2 MOhm - 1 pc.
Variable adjusting resistors:
If imported, then A - logarithmic, B - linear
If domestic, then B - logarithmic, A - linear
Linear B500K – 1 piece
Logarithmic A100K - 1 pc.
Switch button - DPDT switch
Switch 2 button - any button, ON/OFF toggle switch
If Millenium Bypass is not needed, exclude elements: D3, LED3, R8, R9, T1
The board has a size of 60x28 mm.
What is made specifically for the G0473 housing, which is common for pedals. Here he is:
There are 2 types of DOD 250, gray and yellow (or orange). Schematically they are no different, but the operational amplifiers they use are different.
The gray one contains the uA741 chip, also known as LM741, and the yellow one contains the LF351
Here is a table showing the microcircuits used for different modifications of this overdrive.
That's all guys. The article used the Internet and a little Google.
If you don’t yet know what the legendary overdrive produced by DOD is, then take a look. This is a very good choice for a novice solderer.
The circuit that I chose is quite simple; elements or analogues can be found in radio stores in most cities. In addition, the attachment will contain a printed circuit board in Sprint Layot format, with which you can assemble the effect on a normal, human board.
Circuit diagram of DOD 250 with below:
The Switch 2 switch is used to switch the operation of overdrive modes between LEDs and diodes. With LEDs the sound is a little softer.
The assembled board looks like this:
This is what the printed circuit board looks like:
electrolytic capacitor 100uF (~16V) — 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 10nF (0.01 uF) - 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 4.7 uF - 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 1.5 nF - 1 pc.
ceramic or film (or electrolytic) capacitor 47 uF - 1 pc.
Resistors constant 0.25 W :
4.7 KOhm - 2 pcs
1 MOhm - 1 piece
22 KOhm - 2 pcs.
2.4 KOhm - 1 piece
470 KOhm - 1 piece
2 MOhm - 1 pc.
Variable adjusting resistors:
If imported, then A - logarithmic, B - linear
If domestic, then B - logarithmic, A - linear
Linear B500K – 1 piece
Logarithmic A100K - 1 pc.
Switch button - DPDT switch
Switch 2 button - any button, ON/OFF toggle switch
If Millenium Bypass is not needed, exclude elements: D3, LED3, R8, R9, T1
The board has a size of 60x28 mm.
What is made specifically for the G0473 housing, which is common for pedals. Here he is:
There are 2 types of DOD 250, gray and yellow (or orange). Schematically they are no different, but the operational amplifiers they use are different.
The gray one contains the uA741 chip, also known as LM741, and the yellow one contains the LF351
Here is a table showing the microcircuits used for different modifications of this overdrive.
That's all guys. The article used the Internet and a little Google.
The electric guitar is a relatively young musical instrument, but it has already achieved enormous popularity: it is difficult to imagine a modern musical group without an electric guitarist. Perhaps, the electric guitar has gained such popularity primarily because its sound can vary over a very wide range: from light and airy to hard and aggressive. This happens thanks to the so-called, which are included in the circuit between the guitar pickup and the amplifier. They transform the clean signal of the guitar in a special way, thanks to which the sound of the instrument can change beyond recognition.
Nowadays there are a huge number of different pedals for guitarists, but not everyone can afford to buy them, because the prices for them are sometimes incredibly inflated. Much cheaper, and, importantly, more pleasant - very often behind a beautiful metal box there is an easy-to-repeat scheme.
Set-top box overdrive circuit
In this article, we will look at an overdrive circuit from the DOD company - DOD 250. Its sound is quite soft, not as harsh as that of distortion pedals, and many will like it. Actually, the diagram:
The key element of the circuit is a single operational amplifier. You can use TL071, LM358, LM741, NE5534 or other similar chips. It’s worth trying to install several different ones in turn, and then choose which one produces the most pleasant sound.
Particular attention should be paid to diodes D1, D2, LED1, LED2. Their task is to limit the signal amplified by the operational amplifier, so the sound largely depends on them. There is quite a lot of room for creativity here - you can install anything, germanium diodes, silicon diodes, LEDs. You can also experiment by placing different types of diodes in opposite directions - then the signal limitation will turn out to be asymmetrical. Depending on the voltage drop across the diode semiconductor, the degree of signal limitation will change, and, consequently, the sound.
In addition, you can install several pairs of diodes in parallel, which will also affect the color of the sound. Experiment, look for “your” sound, you can’t do this with store-bought pedals. By the way, if you install LEDs instead of regular diodes, they will blink in time with the music.
The circuit provides a “Switch 2” switch, which is used to connect a second pair of parallel-connected diodes. With it, you can change the pedal sound while playing.
The coupling capacitor C1 should be made of film; you can also play with its value. The larger its capacity, the less the low frequencies of the guitar will be cut off. Diode D4 serves to protect the circuit from polarity reversal, the chain R9, D3, T1, R8, LED3 serves for indication and does not affect the operation of the circuit in any way.
Potentiometer R7 “Level” should be taken logarithmic, but R5 “Gain” should be set to reverse logarithmic for smoother adjustment. If there is no such thing, an ordinary linear one will do. Power supply 9-12 volts, from a power supply or from a Krona battery, because The consumption of the entire circuit is extremely low, it will last for a long time.
List of required components
Resistors 0.125 W:
- 2 MOhm - 1 piece
- 470 kOhm - 1 piece
- 1 MOhm - 1 piece
- 4.7 kOhm - 2 pcs.
- 2.4 kOhm - 1 piece
- 22 kOhm - 2 pcs.
- 100 kOhm - 1 piece
Capacitors:
- 10 nF - 1 piece
- 47 nF - 1 piece
- 1.5 nF - 1 piece
- 100 uF - 1 piece
- 47 uF - 1 piece
- 4.7 uF - 1 piece
Rest:
- Chip TL071 - 1 piece
- Potentiometer 100 kOhm - 1 pc.
- Potentiometer 500 kOhm - 1 pc.
- Handles for potentiometers - 2 pcs.
- Connectors jack 6.3 mono - 2 pcs.
- Diode D4 - 1n4007 - 1 pc.
- Diodes D1, D2, LED1, LED2 - to taste
- Switch Switch - 2 pcs.
The circuit does not require configuration and starts working immediately if assembled correctly. It is advisable to package the circuit in a housing for ease of use and protection from external interference. I recommend using an ordinary tin can as a body, because you can get it absolutely free, tin can be processed well and protects against interference. In addition, the pedal in a tin can body looks very interesting.
During installation, earth loops should not be allowed to appear; they can lead to the spontaneous appearance of extraneous noise that no one needs. To do this, you need to select one single point with the minus of the circuit, from which to lead the wires to the jack connectors, the board, to the case (it needs to be connected to the minus). Thus, you should get something like an earth star.
As a result, we got a very good-sounding guitar pedal for just a couple of hundred rubles, instead of going to the store and buying the same circuit for tens of times more expensive. In my version, I decided not to install volume control, so I only have one control knob. The author of the article is Dmitry S.
Discuss the article OVERDRIVE FOR ELECTRIC GUITAR
