In order to start a car, you need to turn the crankshaft. And this turn occurs thanks to the starter, which, in its essence, is a DC electric motor.
The starter power is determined by the moment of resistance to turning the crankshaft and its minimum rotation speed. At the same time, the importance of the work it performs is quite difficult to underestimate, because, despite its very modest dimensions, the starter needs to perform actions that ensure the start of rotation of the flywheel and the further movement of the engine piston group.
The VAZ 2110 starter has a fairly reliable mechanism: for quite a long time, practically no problems arise in its operation. Problems usually begin to arise only about five to six years after the start of operation.
What else do you need to know about the “ten” starter?
A few words about the starter of the VAZ 2110 car.
The VAZ 2110 starter is very similar to the VAZ 2108 starter, but at the same time it has some of its own design features. The most important of them is the presence of a “ten” clutch with two holes and a gear mounted on the shaft, covered with a half-cap, in accordance with the mating part on the gearbox. Therefore, it is these elements that you need to pay attention to when purchasing a starter for the VAZ 2110.
VAZ 2110 starter diagram.
| 1 | drive shaft |
| 2 | front cover bushing |
| 3 | restrictor ring |
| 4 | gear with inner ring of overrunning clutch |
| 5 | overrunning clutch roller |
| 6 | drive shaft support with liner |
| 7 | planetary gear axis |
| 8 | pad |
| 9 | lever bracket |
| 10 | drive lever |
| 11 | front cover |
| 12 | armature relay |
| 13 | holding winding |
| 14 | pull-in winding |
| 15 | traction relay |
| 16 | traction relay rod |
| 17 | traction relay core |
| 18 | contact plate |
| 19 | traction relay cover |
| 20 | contact bolts |
| 21 | output of “positive” brushes |
| 22 | brace |
| 23 | brush holder |
| 24 | "positive" brush |
| 25 | armature shaft |
| 26 | tie rod |
| 27 | back cover with sleeve |
| 28 | collector |
| 29 | frame |
| 30 | permanent magnet |
| 31 | armature core |
| 32 | armature shaft support with liner |
| 33 | planetary gear |
| 34 | central (drive) gear |
| 35 | drove |
| 36 | internal gear |
| 37 | layering ring |
| 38 | hub with overrunning outer ring |
Is it worth or not worth repairing the starter?
It's no secret that the quality of domestically produced starters, as well as their components, leaves much to be desired. The thing is that the machines of the enterprises on which starters are made have long been worn out, which is why the products of these enterprises cannot be called high-quality.
But a foreign-made starter will serve you for about five years without signs of wear, which is quite good, because domestic analogues can fail after just two years of operation.
Basic faults associated with the starter.
- Defects in the power circuit: the starter does not have enough electrical power to turn the necessary elements.
- Heating of the windings and subsequent damage to the insulation is a consequence of prolonged cranking of the starter.
- Failure of the starter itself can occur due to faulty bushings.
By the way, repairing the “ten” starter itself, although not very expensive, however, it “extends the life” of this device for a maximum of a year and a half, after which repairs are required again. Therefore, in order to save your energy and time, if the starter breaks down, the best solution is to simply purchase a new device to replace the old one.
The engine is started by a starter ST230-B4* with an electromagnetic traction relay. The starter is installed on the left side of the engine and is attached to the clutch housing.
* Some vehicles may have a starter 422.3708 installed (design, maintenance and repair - see section 8.3).
Starter Specifications
Rated voltage, V.....12
Number of starter drive gear teeth.....9
Gear module.....2.5
Rated power (with battery capacity 55 Ah), kW.....1.5
Idle mode at 12 V:
current consumption, A, no more.....85
shaft rotation speed, min -1 , not less.....4000
Full braking mode when the starter is powered by a 12-volt battery with a capacity of 60 Ah:
current consumption, A, no more.....550
torque, Nm (kgf m), not less.....20.0 (2.0)
Switching voltage of the main contacts of the traction relay when laying between the gear
and thrust ring 16.5 mm, V, no more.....8.0
Number of poles.....4
Field windings:
Four coils of PMM wire cross-section. 1.5x5.6 mm 8.5 turns each
Brushes:
Copper-graphite, MGSO grade, 4 pcs., size. 8.8x19.2X14 mm
Armature winding:
PMM wire with a cross section of 2.26x3.53 mm,
number of conductors
in section - 1, step
along grooves 1-8, step
by collector 1-15
Spring force, N (kgf).....8.5-14.0 (0.85-1.4)
Traction relay:
retractor winding.....Wire PEV-2, diameter 1.18-1.36 mm, 180 turns, resistance 0.35-0.36 Ohm
holding winding.....Wire PEV-2, diameter 0.75-0.89 mm, 180 turns, resistance 1.06-1.14 Ohm
The starter is a four-pole, four-brush DC motor. The starter shaft rotates clockwise (as viewed from the starter drive side). The design of the starter and electromagnetic relay is shown in.
When the ignition switch key is turned clockwise to the start position, the electrical circuit of the additional starter relay 711.3747-02 is turned on, through the contacts of which power is supplied from the battery to the traction relay (see vehicle electrical diagram). The armature of the traction relay, under the influence of the electromagnetic field of the two relay windings, is retracted and, using a lever, engages the gear and at the end of the stroke turns on the starter electrical circuit, simultaneously turning off the retractor winding of the relay.
After starting the engine, you must immediately release the ignition switch key. This will open the circuit of the additional starter relay and the traction relay will turn off under the influence of the return spring.
Starter Maintenance
During maintenance, you should check the condition of the clamps, preventing them from becoming dirty and loosened.
The starter draws a lot of current, so even small transient resistances in the starter circuit lead to a large voltage drop and a decrease in starter power.
Pay special attention to the condition of the commutator and brushes. Make sure that the brushes do not jam in the brush holders. The height of the brushes must be at least 5 mm. The spring force should be in the range of 8.5-14 N (0.85-1.4 kgf).
In case of contamination or slight burning, the commutator should be cleaned with fine glass sandpaper, 80 or 100 grit. If the commutator is slightly rough and the insulation protrudes between the plates, the commutator should be turned on a lathe.
Burnt contacts of the starter electromagnetic relay should be cleaned with glass sandpaper or a flat velvet file to ensure contact over the entire surface with the contact disk. If the contact bolts where they contact the contact disc are heavily worn, turn them 180°.
Removing and disassembling the starter
To remove the starter you must:
Disconnect the battery;
Disconnect the wires from the starter;
Turn the oil cooler valve with shut-off valve 90° forward;
Remove the oil indicator rod tube;
Unscrew the starter mounting nuts and remove the starter.
Disassembly. The starter to be repaired must be disassembled. Thoroughly clean the starter parts from dirt and check them. Damaged and worn parts must be replaced with new ones. The starter must be disassembled in the following order:
Remove the brushes from the brush holders. Brushes and brush holders should be numbered so that when assembling the brushes they are installed in their places;
Unscrew the tightening screws 22 of the starter housing and remove the cover 4 from the manifold side;
Disconnect the wire from the traction relay;
Remove starter housing 6;
Remove shaft 11 of the drive lever;
Remove the armature along with the drive, while removing the adjusting washers from the armature shaft journal on the drive side. Move the thrust bushing on the armature shaft towards the gear. Remove the spring ring under the thrust bushing, then remove the thrust bushing and drive;
Remove traction relay 24; remove relay cover 26; remove the locking washer and contact disk 25 from the rod;
If necessary, unscrew the screws securing the poles in a special device and remove the field windings.
Checking the condition of parts and repairing the starter
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Rice. 9.19. Checking the starter field coils for a short circuit with the housing |
Using a test lamp, make sure that there is no short circuit between the excitation coils and the housing. To do this, it is necessary to connect a test lamp connected to the 220 V AC circuit to the housing and the terminal located on the housing (). If the lamp lights up, it means the insulation of the excitation coils is damaged.
In this case, it is necessary to number the poles of the coils, unscrew the screws securing the poles using a special device () and remove the field windings. Repair damaged areas of insulation with insulating tape. After this, put the poles and coils in place. Seal the pole screws.
Using a test lamp, make sure that the insulated brush holders are not shorted to the housing (). If there is a short circuit, the insulating gasket and the bushing of the brush holder rivets should be replaced. Swinging of the brush holders is not allowed. The brushes in the brush holders should move freely, without jamming. Replace the cover bushing on the manifold side if it is worn. The hole diameter of the new bushing after pressing and reaming should be 14+0.035 mm with a finish of Ra = 2.5. Brushes worn to a height of 5 mm should be replaced.
To check the brush springs, you need to put the cover on the armature shaft. Reinstall the brushes and check the spring force with a dynamometer. The force should be in the range of 8.5-14 N (0.85-1.4 kgf) at the moment the spring comes off the brush. The ends of the brush springs should press against the middle of the brush.
In the cover on the drive side, check the condition of the bushing (bearing); if necessary, install a new bushing in the cover, the hole diameter of which, after pressing and deployment, should be within the range of 12+0.035 mm.
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Rice. 9.22. Checking the starter armature winding for a short circuit with the magnetic circuit |
Using a test lamp, make sure that there is no short circuit in the armature winding to the armature package. To do this, connect one end to any of the armature lamellas, and the other to the armature iron package. The lamp should not be lit ().
Carefully inspect the anchor. The frontal part of the armature winding should be smaller in diameter than the iron package. An increased diameter of the frontal part of the winding indicates winding “spacing”. This anchor must be replaced. The ends of the winding wires must be securely soldered to the commutator cockerels.
Check the armature for the absence of interturn short circuits. If a short circuit is detected, replace the armature.
The armature commutator must be clean. If the commutator is significantly rough or the insulation protrudes, it must be turned on a lathe, then polished with 100-grit glass sandpaper to a roughness of Ra = 1.25.
The commutator runout relative to the shaft journals should not exceed 0.05 mm. The runout of the armature iron package relative to the shaft journals should not exceed 0.25 mm. At the same time, check that there is no shaft deflection, since deflection may cause the drive to jam on the splined part of the shaft. If there is yellow deposits from the bearing on the armature shaft, in the place where the starter gear rotates, it should be removed with fine sandpaper. The presence of a yellow coating often leads to the gear sticking on the shaft after starting the engine and to “spacing” of the armature winding.
Inspect the starter drive from the outside and check for slipping. The drive must move freely, without jamming, along the splined part of the shaft. If the drive bushings (bearings) are severely worn, they must be replaced. The hole diameter of the new bushings after pressing and reaming should be 14+0.06 mm with a hole surface roughness Ra = 1.25.
When holding the armature, the gear should rotate freely clockwise. The gear should rotate counterclockwise only with the armature. The freewheel is checked for slipping when testing the starter for full braking on a bench.
The serviceability of the pull-in and holding windings must be checked with an ohmmeter or the resistance measured with a voltmeter and ammeter.
The resistance of the retracting winding should be 0.30-0.36 Ohms, and the holding winding 1.06-1.14 Ohms. If the windings are faulty, the traction relay should be replaced. The terminal bolts must be cleaned, and if they are severely burnt out, they must be turned at an angle of 180° around their axis. If the contact disc is heavily worn, turn its unworn side towards the contacts.
The traction relay armature in the housing must move freely. If the armature spring ring is deformed, it must be replaced with a new one or straightened.
After checking, replacing all worn, damaged parts and lubricating the bearings, journals and splined part of the shaft with engine oil, the starter can be assembled.
Assembly.
The starter is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.
When final tightening the pinch screws, it is necessary to align the pins and grooves on the covers and body.
Check the amount of axial play of the armature, which should be approximately 1 mm.
After assembly, it is necessary to check the operation of the starter on a stand. When the starter is turned on, the drive must move on the splined part of the shaft without jamming and return to its original position under the action of the return spring. When turning the gear clockwise by hand, the armature should not move; when rotating in reverse, the gear should rotate together with the shaft. The starter needs to be checked and adjusted.
The setting of the gear in the off position must correspond to . Distance A from the mating plane of the starter flange should be 34 mm.
Check the full overhang of the gear with the traction relay turned on. To do this, turn on the traction relay, as shown in The distance between the end of the gear and the stop should be 3-5 mm (pic.). This gap is adjusted by turning the eccentric axis 11 (see) of the drive lever. After adjustment, tighten the axle nut, holding the axle from turning. The malfunction of the starter, the correctness of its assembly and adjustment is determined by:
Checking the adjustment of the starter switch;
Checking the starter at idle and under full braking.
To check the starter, you need a low-voltage unit (or a well-charged battery), a DC voltmeter with a scale from 0 to 30 V, a DC indicator with a shunt up to 1000 A, a tachometer with a scale up to 10,000 -1 and a dynamometer. The starter connection circuit is shown in. If there is no special test bench for the 532M model, the starter is clamped in a vice and connected to the battery (the starter clamp is connected through the current indicator to the positive terminal, and the starter housing to the negative terminal of the battery). To connect the starter to the battery, wires with a cross section of at least 25-35 mm2 are used. The current strength and the number of revolutions of the armature when tested at idle are measured no more than 30 s after turning on the starter.
The starter is considered to have passed the test if, at a voltage of 12 V, it consumes a current of no more than 85 A and develops a rotation speed of at least 4000 rpm.
When the armature rotates tightly, which is usually caused by distortions as a result of improper assembly of the starter, or the armature touching the poles, or a short circuit between the turns, the starter consumes more current and develops less than the specified speed. Low current consumption and a reduced number of revolutions at normal voltage at the starter terminals indicate poor contact in the wire connections or insufficient tension of the brush springs.
To check the starter under full braking, a lever connected to a dynamometer is attached to the drive gear. It is better to use a hydraulic dynamometer. The braking torque M of the starter is determined by the formula:
M = L x P,
where L is the length of the lever in m; P - dynamometer reading, kg.
To avoid overheating of the starter, the test should be carried out for a short time. If the armature rotates when the gear is braked, then the drive needs to be changed.
When checking, you should be careful, since when the starter is turned on, there will be a strong jerk of the lever mounted on the gear.
A working starter, when powered by a fully charged battery, consumes a current of no more than 550 A at a voltage of at least 8 V and develops a torque of 20.0 Nm (2.0 kgfm). If the current consumption is higher than 550 A and the braking torque is lower than 20.0 N·m (2.0 kgf·m), this indicates a fault in the field winding. If the magnitude of the braking torque and the current consumed are lower than normal, this, with normal voltage at the starter terminals, indicates poor electrical contacts of the starter or weak brush spring tension. Low voltage at the starter terminals - less than 8.0 V - indicates poor contacts in the wires or a faulty battery.
After connecting the devices according to this circuit, switch 6 is turned on, using the resistor slider 2, set the voltage on the voltmeter 5 within 1-2 V. Then, by smoothly moving the slider, increase the voltage until relay 4 turns on (in this case, the control lamp 3 should light up). The voltmeter reading at which the lamp lights up corresponds to the relay switching voltage. By moving the resistor slider in the opposite direction, the voltage on the relay winding is reduced until it turns off. The voltmeter reading at which the lamp goes out corresponds to the relay switch-off voltage.
The relay cannot be repaired; if it fails, it must be replaced with a new one.
The automotive ignition system consists of many components and mechanisms that ensure normal starting and operation of the power unit. On a VAZ 2110 car, the starter is a component that, if it breaks, will make it impossible to start the engine. You can learn more about this device, as well as its installation, from this material.
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Characteristics of the VAZ starter of the tenth model
Before installing the new 2110 and connecting it, let's look at the main characteristics. Let's consider the location and design of the VAZ 2110 starter.
Location and purpose
To start a vehicle engine, you need to turn the crankshaft. The crankshaft rotates as a result of turning on the starter, which is actually a DC electric motor. The power of this electric motor is determined by the minimum speed of the crankshaft, as well as the moment of resistance to its rotation. Despite its small size, the unit performs functions that make it possible to rotate the flywheel, which is necessary for the movement of the pistons of the unit. As for the installation location, if you look at the car from the front, facing the engine, the unit is located on the right side of the engine compartment, opposite the driver's seat.
Design and principle of operation of the unit
On VAZ 2110 cars, the injector starter assembly consists of many different components, if they are in working order the device will work well.
Main components of the mechanism:
- device winding;
- anchor;
- retracting and holding windings;
- traction relay;
- VAZ 2110 starter brushes, if they wear out, by the way, the mechanism will need to be repaired.
More details about the device and the VAZ 2110 are given at the end of the article.
As for the principle of operation, the operation of the unit is carried out in several stages:
- the starter drive component drives the gear on the armature shaft into engagement with the toothed part of the flywheel;
- further, this shaft rotates, and the gear rotates with it, which subsequently rotates the engine crankshaft through the flywheel, thus helping to start the unit;
- Once the motor has started, the drive component must disengage the mechanism gear from the flywheel teeth.
Which starter is better?
If a unit on your car fails, then you will have to either repair it or replace it with a functional one. If you make a replacement, you will probably be faced with the question - which starter is better to install? Today, “tens” can use two types of devices - with and without a gearbox. The gear unit is a device with a small electric motor and lower current. It differs from conventional mechanisms in its higher starting torque and power, its weight is much higher, and its starting ability is better (the author of the video about repairing the device at home is the CompsMaster channel).
In addition, gear units are less demanding to maintain, and as practice shows, their service life is longer. Mechanisms of this type allow the crankshaft to rotate even if the car’s battery is discharged. But it should be noted that long-term use of such a starter unit can lead to its more accelerated failure. One of the “diseases” of gear units is the rotating gear, which, as a rule, fails before other elements.
If we talk about traditional starter mechanisms without a gearbox, then in this case the unit itself transmits translational motion to the gears. Such devices have a simpler design and can be easily repaired in case of breakdown; this advantage is considered the main one when compared with gear mechanisms. However, experts still recommend choosing gear units, since they are more durable and generally work more reliably.
DIY connection instructions
So, if you decide to install a new mechanism, then first you will need to dismantle the old one.
How to properly remove and install a new device, what its connection diagram is, read below:
- To begin, turn off the engine and turn off the ignition. Then open the engine compartment and disconnect the battery. All repair work related to the electrical part must be carried out with the vehicle's electrical network de-energized. If the battery is not disconnected during removal, this may result in voltage surges in the system, which can lead to failure of the starter mechanism or other electrical equipment.
- When the battery is disconnected, you will need to dismantle the crankcase protection of the power unit. To do this, crawl under the bottom of the car and unscrew all the bolts that secure the protection, then remove it, and put the bolts nearby so as not to lose it.
- Now you can begin dismantling the element. To do this, first find where the device is located. First of all, you need to unscrew the nut of the upper mechanism lock. Unscrew it with a wrench and set it aside.
- The next step is best done under the bottom of the car. Reach under the vehicle and disconnect the cable that connects to the traction relay terminal. If the connection is bad, there are traces of rust or oxidation on it, then at the same stage, clean the contacts; for this you can use a construction iron brush.
- After these steps are completed, you need to unscrew the nut and disconnect the cable that is connected to the contact screw of the traction relay.
- Next, all you have to do is unscrew the nut, which is located on the lower mechanism lock. Now you can dismantle the starter device and replace it with a more functional and efficient one. Further installation is carried out in reverse order, do not forget to connect all the nuts and bolts. Before connecting wires, check the quality of the contacts to prevent possible problems in the future.
Photo gallery
As we promised at the beginning of the article, we present to your attention a more detailed diagram of the device indicating all the components of the design.
The VAZ 2110 starter is a four-pole brushed electric motor, which is based on direct current with excitation from similar magnets, with a gearbox (planetary), freewheel (roller), and a traction relay (two windings).
Technical characteristics of starter 57.3708:
- rated power within 1.55 kW;
- current consumption at idle 80 A;
- in a state of inhibition about 700 A;
- at a maximum power of 375 A.
4 magnets (permanent) are glued to the steel body of the VAZ 2110 starter, and from the inside they are all additionally attached with an aluminum flared sleeve. The covers and body of the structure are tightened with 2 studs. The anchor shaft rotates in 2 cermet liners, which are installed both in the cover and in the shaft support.
If you have seen it assembled and in action, you will have noticed that the torque directly from the armature shaft is transmitted to the drive shaft. This occurs through a planetary gearbox, which consists of a central gear, 3 planetary gears, an internal epicyclic gear and a carrier.
The overrunning clutch (freewheel) is installed on the drive shaft with the drive gear. It transmits that same torque in only one direction: from the starter directly to the engine, as if disconnecting these circuits after the engine starts. This action is necessary to protect the gearbox and armature from damage that may occur as a result of unplanned speed.
The traction relay plays the role of inputting the drive gear when engaging the ring gear. This concerns the crankshaft flywheel of the VAZ engine and the power supply to the electric motor. As soon as the ignition key is turned to the “starter” mark, voltage is supplied to the traction relay windings – holding and retracting.
After the traction relay contacts close, the pull-in winding is turned off. In this case, the voltage when the relay is activated should be kept within 8 V if the ambient temperature is 20 - 25° plus. If the parameters are too high or too low, then there is a problem with the relay itself or the drive, so it’s worth carrying out an external inspection of the starter after you disassemble it. If it becomes unusable, replace it.
How to remove and disassemble the VAZ 2110 starter
Before proceeding with such actions, you should familiarize yourself with the starter connection diagram. Let's take a look at the drawing.
1 – rechargeable battery; 2 – generator; 3 – starter; 4 – switch.
The last one belongs to . If you want to do everything yourself, then it is better to do it using an inspection hole on a lift. Don't forget to remove the engine splash guard. Once everything is prepared, begin to perform the following steps in sequence:
For those interested in circuits, we suggest using the following material. This starter assembly for a domestic car is:
1 – armature shaft;
2 – “plus” brush;
3 – brush holder;
4 – bracket;
5 – contact bolts;
6 – traction relay;
7 – contact plate;
8 – core;
10 – holding winding;
11 – retractor winding;
12 – anchor;
13 – front cover;
14 – drive lever;
15 – bracket;
16 – gasket;
17 – planetary gear axis;
18 – support with drive shaft liner;
19 – overrunning clutch;
20 – restrictive ring;
21 – front cover bushing;
22– drive shaft;
23 – outlet ring;
24 – gear with internal teeth;
25 – carrier;
26 – drive gear, or central;
27 – satellite;
28 – armature shaft support;
29 – permanent core;
30 – magnet;
31 – collector;
32 – rear cover with bushing.
Installing a starter relay for a VAZ 2110
Installing a relay with your own hands is not that difficult. Watch the video, this visual guide will help you:
If the VAZ 2110 starter does not turn
Problem 1: How sometimes you need advice from knowledgeable people! Somehow, young guys pulled a VAZ 2110 from the first year of the new century into the garage. Turn on the ignition: the fuel pump is working, the lights are off. We started to turn the starter - there was silence in response, and the lights on the dashboard immediately went out. They released the ignition key: the process began - the fuel pump is working again, 12 volts at the retractor relay are right there, but the starter does not want to turn. We short-circuited it directly: again it does not turn, while the fuel pump performs its actions as if the ignition had just been turned on. We disconnected the signaling system, removed the starter, checked for serviceability, and also tested the ignition switch. Everything seems to be in perfect order, but the result is zero.
Solution: If the lights on the dash go out when you turn on the starter, then there is no ground. This can happen due to poor contact as a result of a powerful short circuit. Keep the starter on for 10 minutes: if nothing comes out from under the hood, then look for a fault in the contact area. As soon as you find it, the problem will disappear.
Advice and help: Try starting the engine using the pushrod. In practice, there are cases with Priora when the engine did not want to spin due to the fact that it was jammed. You can blame the battery, but the problem is usually a hole in the piston.
Practice: some car owners install a tester and measure the voltage. Is it falling a lot? It's time to replace the dead battery with a new one or see if the starter is shorting. If everything is normal with the battery, then there is a break somewhere. Apply voltage directly, see if the mass is heavily oxidized: unscrew the bolt, white powder should fall off it. This defect is called a childhood defect.
Problem 2 : and it also happens: you turn on the ignition, everything works, even the BN pumps, you turn further - oops! The engine won't start! Either the starter relay is to blame, or the starter itself, which is hanging around the black box. Neither external inspection nor replacement of parts helps. What to do if such a disaster happens on the road?
Tip one: Pull up the mass from below.
Tip two: It is possible with the battery plus to apply to the contact of the retractor relay. Turn it on - the starter is alive! Feel free to call your friends and let them drag you into the garage.
Tip three: Look at the ignition switch, there is a connector with a red wire. Often he is the culprit of all troubles due to poor contact.
Problem 3: the key goes to start, but instead of the rumbling of the engine there is silence. And so on once. Second try: everything starts without problems. Is there a problem with the lock or is this just the beginning?
Answer: No, this relay is “playing around”. If it stalls along the way, you can dig deeper and replace it, clean or tighten the contacts. Didn't lead to anything again? Then to a tow truck and to a familiar auto electrician. Usually the problem is that the wire has rotted under the sheath. It goes from the “brains” to the “plus” terminal of the battery. But if the immobilizer is playing tricks, covering that very “brain”, then you will have to re-upload the firmware.
When the VAZ 2110 starter retractor is naughty
Trouble: For most VAZ 2110 owners, the retractor on the starter often breaks. Buy a new one and install it. If it starts normally 3 times, then there will be no further problems, but if more, then check the ignition switch. The retractor contact is not made through a relay, but through a lock. The starter can also act up due to the fact that the voltage on the battery is not normal.
What to do: urgently see a specialist!
DIY VAZ 2110 starter repair
Are you ready to repair the starter yourself? Then use not only the instructions with the photo.
Can you change the bendix? Wonderful! But first, here's a video to help you:
Experts say that repairing a VAZ 2110 starter with your own hands will take no more than one hour. Beginners can also easily complete the task if they first remove all the parts and turn off the power to the car. Are you ready to remove the terminals? Forward!
Work begins with examination or diagnosis if there are underlying problems:
First: The ignition key is turned: the engine does not start.
Cause: No voltage is supplied to the starter.
Action: take the indicator, look for the reason for the loss. Most likely this is a malfunction of the solenoid relay. Using a screwdriver, tighten the bolts together on the relay cover.
Second: The starter barely turns.
Reason 1: battery dead
Action: Check it and the vehicle's charging system.
Reason 2: brushes, bushings, starter windings, armature, gearbox, teeth, crown, flywheel.
Remedy: Buy new ones or replace them.
Reason 3: sometimes the starter is not screwed in properly
What to do: Twist.
If the starter spins as expected, but you hear a grinding noise from it, then the bendix is faulty. The starter needs to be disassembled. How this is done is described above. But for clarity, once again:
Remove the back cover. Behind it is the brush assembly. See the bolt holding the assembly in place? You can unscrew it. Then, very carefully, so as not to break the brushes, remove it. Please note: their height is 11 mm and no less. If different, then replace them. Most starters have wires from the brushes welded to the plate, so you will have to fork out for a new brush assembly.
Now you can free yourself from it. The latter is attached with two or three bolts to the front cover. Depends on the VAZ brand. Once this front of work is completed, proceed to removing the front cover by turning the bolts. Do you see the diagram?
It is designed for starters with a front support cover. This one is on the Classic. On 21099, the process is slightly different: before removing the front cover, deal with the bendix: knock out the locking ring (usually towards the armature) so that the fork is not in the way. For 2110, it is enough to remove the armature from the body and replace the faulty part or block.
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VAZ-2110 owners often ask themselves the question: how to close the starter? This can happen at any time for various reasons. It is often necessary to close the starter when the driver cannot start the car from inside the car using the key. In this case, you will need outside help to start the car, or simply close the starter.
To correctly perform this procedure, every driver must know how it is carried out. It is worth immediately noting that this method of starting the engine will not be effective in some cases . Before you carry it out, you need to accurately determine the reasons why the engine does not start.
What is needed to close the starter on a VAZ-2110?
To close the starter you will need the following tool:
- Screwdriver.
- Key.
- Metal rod.
All these elements must be such that we can reach the starter contacts.
It is also important to ensure that the current does not strike a person when closing the contacts. To do this, you can wear rubber gloves or wrap the end of a metal object with electrical tape.
Process
The process goes like this:
- The car is put in neutral gear.
Raise the hood, remove the air filter from its mountings and move it to the side.
- The ignition turns on.
Raise the handbrake, put the gearshift lever in the “neutral” position and turn on the ignition.
- The starter contacts close.
- The engine starts.
Starter failure
Starting the engine with a metal object is only possible if the starter itself does not work.
Starter device for VAZ-2110.
If there is no voltage on it, then the reason is different, and You won't be able to start the engine this way.. Therefore, it is first necessary to find out the reason why the starter does not turn the crankshaft.
But often, when the car does not start with the key, the reason is precisely in the starter. It may have various malfunctions. The main ones are:
- Relay is faulty.
- The winding burned out.
- Contacts are oxidized.
- The bendix is worn out.
Video on how to check the starter
conclusions
As you can see, you can start the car even if the starter does not turn. It can also be started from a tug or simply towed to the repair site. Which option to choose is up to everyone to decide.
Video about VAZ-2110 starter repair
