In the practice of car enthusiasts, there are often situations when an unsuccessful refueling or a prolonged downtime of the car causes a loss of power and dynamism. The engine begins to respond late to the gas pedal, and acceleration takes much longer and worse than before. As a rule, the cause of such troubles is the loss of compression of one of the cylinders due to the occurrence of one of the rings. If low-quality fuel is used to operate a car, then when it burns, a layer of soot appears. This process is called coking of the piston rings. Actions aimed at returning the engine to its previous properties are called decoking of the piston rings.
What is coking and what danger does it pose to the engine?
Coking should be understood as the process of formation of a layer of carbon deposits arising from combustion products on the piston rings, and the reverse process is decoking of the piston rings. Carbon deposits can form for two main reasons: the use of low-quality fuel and if oil gets into the combustion chamber. Of course, when refueling a car, the driver cannot analyze the fuel that is poured into the tank. It is for this reason that car enthusiasts are often interested in the answer to the question of what such a problem means for a car engine. Coking itself disrupts and destabilizes the normal operation of the entire car and, in particular, the engine. If you do not begin to deal with the deposits that have formed in a timely manner, then engine wear will occur many times faster. This is why decoking of the piston rings is necessary. The following consequences of this process can be noted:
- If a thick layer forms on the cylinder walls, due to an increase in thickness, the thermal conductivity will deteriorate, and, accordingly, the thermal load will increase;
- Valves may burn out due to slag getting under them, which prevents them from fitting tightly into the seat;
- The gap from the piston ring to the valve wall decreases. Because of this, the tightness of the combustion chamber is broken and compression deteriorates. In practice, it often happens that rings simply break under load;
- Fuel and oil consumption is significantly higher than normal when the piston rings do not move. As drivers figuratively put it, the car eats fuel and oil in huge portions;
- In coked engines, pressure surges occur in the combustion chamber, which is caused by detonation phenomena.
Engine decarbonization - how is it done and what do you need to know?
Modern inspection and repair of the main parts of the car will allow it to serve reliably and for a long time. Those who constantly comply with the requirements of the manufacturer regarding the operation of their car: complied with all standards for oil changes, maintenance, and others, may have never heard of the problem of coking, but it happens that car enthusiasts are faced with such a problem and through no fault of their own.
But a good owner always comes to his senses at the first signs of problems: as soon as incomprehensible changes in the operation of the engine are heard, the power of the engine has noticeably decreased, excessive consumption of fuel or oil. Always remember - timely preventive measures save not only money, but also the integrity of the entire car.
In order to understand when decoking of the piston rings is really necessary, you need to thoroughly understand the symptoms of such a malfunction. So, let's define the main ones:
- When starting the engine, you can observe a strong exhaust from the exhaust pipe and an unpleasant smell of combustion products in the cabin;
- Comparative increase in oil consumption;
- A sharp decrease in car dynamics;
- Uneven operation at idle;
- Without any problems with the battery in cold weather, the engine starts with great difficulty.
The most popular methods for removing carbon deposits
Today, experts use two main methods to remove solids from the piston ring and valves: mechanical (brushes, kerosene, acetone) and chemical (special liquids).
Mechanical method
If mechanical decoking of the engine is performed, when a solvent, kerosene or acetone is used for cleaning, the engine will be completely or partially disassembled. Cleaning of parts is done manually using any available or special devices: brushes with soft cleaning elements, cloth, liquid for removing carbon deposits, for example, kerosene, solvent, acetone and others. To do this, take a washcloth onto which solvent, kerosene, acetone and others are applied and the engine parts are wiped to remove combustion products of fuel and oil. In addition, kerosene and acetone can be applied to a cotton swab or small swab to reach hard-to-reach places with tweezers. Cleaning can also be carried out using stone chips, when fruit stones clean the piston rings under air pressure with a pressure of 4 - 5 kg/cm2, when the stones hit the surface, the accumulated soot is knocked off it. Of course, mechanical shocks can deform the surface, unlike the method that uses solvent, kerosene or acetone.
Chemical method
Chemical decarbonization of the engine is cleaning of the piston rings in a harsh way, since the piston rings are cleaned using an aggressive chemical reagent that is poured into the cylinder through spark plugs. Initially, the reagent itself is selected for this purpose, since today’s market is filled with a fairly large number of different products. Of these, several of the most popular can be named: Laurel and Hado, as a means for decarbonizing piston rings. Of these, Laurel provides a film on the surface of the motor walls, which protects against rapid adhesion of combustion products. The Laurel comes with a special syringe that will simplify the work of cleaning the engine. Hado also received a lot of positive feedback from satisfied car enthusiasts. Despite all the advantages, we should not forget that such products create a much more aggressive environment than the same kerosene, solvent and acetone. Such substances clean the internal surfaces of fuel and oil combustion products. Craftsmen have even gotten used to cleaning them with medical hydroperite.
Cleaning is performed in the following sequence:
- Initially, the engine warms up to operating temperatures. On average, this indicator should be within 70 – 90ºС;
- The power wires are disconnected. They are removed by removing the spark plugs, and for diesel engines by removing the injectors;
- From the side of the driving wheels, the car is lifted with a jack and shoes are placed on it.
- The gear lever is set to the maximum speed position.
- Use a long screwdriver to turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle position.
- Approximately 40 ml of cleaning liquid is poured into each cylinder. If you decide to clean with hydroperite, then its solution is dripped.
- The spark plugs are slightly screwed into the mounting sockets.
- Within about an hour, the engine will decarbonize. To speed up the process and perform cleaning more efficiently, the drive wheel must be periodically rotated from side to side. In this case, the liquid penetrates well into the piston rings.
- Then you need to make sure that the cylinders are completely empty and start the engine. The engine should continue to run at idle for about an hour.
- When the cleaning procedure is completed, you need to drive the car with a load of about three thousand revolutions, but you should not operate the car without changing the oil and oil filter.
A similar cleaning procedure with Laurel, Hadot or hydroperite has positive effects in terms of increasing the efficiency of the engine, namely: compression will increase, power and dynamic indicators will return, a cold car will start better, but control over the result is much less than when a solvent was used or acetone.
As a preventative measure, modern manufacturers offer car owners to use a soft decarbonization liquid. Such mixtures are used as a fuel additive and have a positive effect - removing carbon deposits. But using such additives will not help in difficult situations and will not clean the entire engine. And one of the popular methods that allows you to clean with improvised means is decarbonizing the engine with water. Decarbonization with water is performed using a simple technique and gives a good result, but also has its drawbacks.
It is better to decarbonize the engine in a timely manner. In many cases, it makes it possible not to bring the engine to major repairs, which are not cheap. Decarbonization is essentially cleaning it from carbon deposits that arise during operation. This problem is faced by drivers who own cars with high mileage. The condition of the engine is also greatly influenced by the quality of the lubricants and fuel used. Therefore, you should not save when selecting oils and fuel for refueling your car, as this will lead to expensive repairs.
The need to decarbonize the engine
This process involves cleaning carbon deposits from the piston ring grooves. Such work can be performed in a variety of ways and can be full or part-time. The need for decarbonization is determined by certain signs in the operation of the engine:
- The appearance of dense black or bluish smoke.
- Significant increase in fuel consumption.
- Problems starting the engine.
- Reduced motor power.
The main reason for the appearance of carbon deposits in the fuel chamber and on the valves is prolonged operation of the engine at low speeds, with prolonged and frequent standing in city traffic jams. Driving with an insufficiently warmed-up engine or using low-quality motor oil or fuel will lead to the same result. Soot occurs due to partial combustion of the combustible mixture, then the situation is complicated by the action of carbon particles in the exhaust gases. A lot of soot is formed due to coking of the engine.
If the above symptoms occur, many auto repair shops recommend doing a major overhaul of the engine, which is an expensive and complex job.
If you decarbonize, it often helps restore normal engine operation and solve other problems. Such work will cost much less and require less time.
Decarbonization is not a solution to absolutely all problems, but only makes it possible to partially extend engine performance. It is usually customary to perform such work in the fall or spring to prepare the car for the change of season. Previously, drivers usually did this work themselves. Currently, drivers of modern cars most often use the services of car service specialists. This is more due to the emergence of new engine models in which it is difficult to reach the injectors or spark plugs.
The following parameters depend on the condition of the oil scraper rings:
- Level of harmful emissions of exhaust gases.
- Engine fuel and oil consumption.
- Power of the power unit.
Each engine element plays an important role in its operation, so it is necessary to regularly check the functionality of the oil scraper rings.
The main purpose of oil scraper rings is to remove heat from the piston. If the heat is not removed, this will lead to negative consequences on which the operation of the engine will depend; it may jam. The consequences may be burnout and piston scuffing. In addition to heat removal, the combustion chamber is sealed and the moving parts in the cylinder are lubricated, which prevents parts from overheating during friction and their rapid wear.
If we take into account today's prices for spare parts, then periodically checking the condition of the rings will be much cheaper than replacing the piston group.
Before considering malfunctions and methods for decoking rings, you should familiarize yourself with the design features of oil removal rings. One-piece rings are no longer used on modern cars, and some models are no longer produced. Their increased rigidity makes them inapplicable for high-quality removal of oil from the cylinder, since the rings do not adhere well to the surface.
Nowadays, rings consisting of several parts are mainly produced. The three-piece rings include two steel plates and coil springs. They are most often used on gasoline engines. Among all the advantages, one can note its best fit to the surface of the cylinder over its entire area. The design of the rings, consisting of two elements, includes a ring and a spring. The good flexibility of the spring allows the ring to fit well to the cylinder. The tightness of the spring ensures the integrity of the entire structure.
Reasons for ring coking
During engine operation, the combustible mixture burns partially, which contributes to the accumulation of combustion products in the cylinder cavity. When using low-quality fuel, the piston rings coke much faster. The quality of the engine oil also affects ring coking.
- Failure of the oil reflecting caps leads to the penetration of engine oil into the combustion chamber. In this case, the valve stem seals should be replaced, which will significantly increase engine compression, resulting in an increase in its power.
- Coking of the piston rings leads to oil penetration into the cylinders. When oil burns, carbon deposits form, leading to a decrease in compression.
To solve such problems in the retail chain, there are various specialized products that can be purchased at car dealerships. They are called decarbonizers.
Piston rings work intensively, which causes their wear. Standard rings wear out after 200 thousand kilometers, but if the engine is used correctly, a new set of rings can last for 500 thousand kilometers. The quality of the engine oil and failure to replace it negatively affect the condition of the piston rings and can lead to sticking in the piston grooves. When driving frequently in dusty areas, the air and fuel filters must be in good condition. To do this, it is necessary to periodically inspect the filters.
There are many signs that determine the need to replace rings or repair an engine:
- Dirty spark plugs.
- The gaskets and seals are black with oil, even though they were recently replaced.
- Formation of bluish smoke when the vehicle starts to move.
- Oil consumption has increased significantly.
If any signs of wear appear, you should first check the condition of the piston rings. To check the valve stem seals, it is necessary to disconnect the engine ventilation pipe. If there is high pressure in the crankcase, this means the oil seals are worn out, which requires their immediate replacement.
Engine decarbonization methods
- Partial decarbonization. Experts call this method soft. Before changing the engine oil, a special agent is added to its composition. Then oil is poured into the engine and driven for some distance without loading the engine too much. It is not recommended to drive at high speeds. After 200 km the oil is changed. This is a simple and inexpensive method. In this case, only certain parts of the engine are cleaned, but the combustion chamber is not cleaned. This is more of a preventive measure carried out when changing the oil.
- Complete decarbonization. This method is tough and allows you to clean the engine most efficiently. However, doing such work requires a lot of time. The machine must be installed on a lift or pit in a horizontal position. The engine is warmed up to operating parameters.
There are many different methods of engine decarbonization that are used at service stations. We will consider the most popular and reliable method - complete decarbonization.
- Before decoking, the engine should be warmed up to operating temperature.
- Unscrew the spark plugs.
- Using a jack, raise the drive wheel and set the gear to overdrive. Next, you need to rotate the wheel until the pistons are in the middle position. You can use a screwdriver to determine their position.
- In this case, we will use a tool called “SURM”. It is used by many masters and is considered quite effective. You need to take 25 milligrams of this product into a syringe and inject it into the cylinder through the spark plug mounting hole. This process is done for each cylinder.
- After pouring the product, you must wait 15 minutes for the carbon deposits to dissolve. During this time, you need to turn the wheel a little so that the liquid penetrates the rings. The wheel turns every three minutes. In this case, no extra turns are required.
- Disconnect the middle wire of the distributor and fix its contacts at a distance of several mm from the engine housing. This will prevent the ignition coil from malfunctioning.
- Turn on neutral speed and turn the starter for about 10 seconds. So it is necessary to force the flushing agent out of the cylinders. This is a very important point, since the presence of liquid in the cylinders when starting the engine can lead to water hammer, which in turn will lead to damage to engine parts.
- Install the spark plugs in their places and start the engine. At first, the exhaust gases will emit an unpleasant odor, but this will quickly pass.
The engine should idle for about 15 minutes. After this you can start moving. After driving 200 kilometers, you can check the oil consumption by comparing the new readings with the old ones, the difference should be obvious.
Decarbonizers
If carbon deposits occur in the cylinders, it should be removed quickly. For this procedure, various chemical reagents are used. The most effective way is to pour a special chemical reagent into the engine cylinder.
These methods are the simplest, but experts do not recommend their use. However, many car owners use this simple method by adding the purchased product to fuel or oil. Often this method gives results.
The most commonly used liquid is SURM, as it has proven its effectiveness for a long time. The product is domestic, so it is easy to purchase at any auto supply store. Its main advantage is that after decarbonization, an oil change is not required.
There are other products that are no less effective, but after them you need to change the oil to a new one, and this requires additional financial costs.
Using the domestic product SURM, we obtain:
- Reducing the amount of harmful exhaust gases.
- Reducing engine oil and fuel consumption.
- Increased engine power.
Modern developments by scientists compete with each other, providing great opportunities for the buyer. All chemical reagents have their own parameters and characteristics, price, composition, and method of application.
Each chemical has instructions for use, so we will look at brief parameters and properties of popular decarbonizers.
- "Lavr ML-202" is a Russian product, one of the most widely used chemicals for cleaning piston rings. An excellent option that gives good results at a low price. Used as Hado for prophylactic purposes. Normalizes compression, cleans rings and grooves, as well as the walls of combustion chambers. Once in the cylinder, the liquid turns into a vapor state, and clears carbon deposits in 1 hour.
- "Liqui Molly OiI-Schlamm-Spulung" is practically an effective additive for the lubrication system. Tests have not confirmed its sufficient effectiveness.
- “Vince” is a product that cleans the intake manifold, regulates compression, cleans the grooves of the piston rings, ensures the necessary mobility of the valves and removes vibration. To use it, special tools are required. Produces good results when all instructions are met.
- "Hado Antikoks" shows very good results in all characteristics, but it has a high price.
If you have little experience in car maintenance and you are not confident in the success of decarbonizing the rings, then it is better to contact a car repair shop.
An old effective method has been used for a long time, the secrets of which we will share here. To do this, prepare a simple product consisting of two components: kerosene and acetone. Their ratios can vary depending on desire, but most often three parts of acetone and one part of kerosene are used. Some home craftsmen say that you need to add more oil, but in this case there will be no benefit from it. The amount of the product received is 300 grams for the entire engine.
After preparing the special product, you can begin decoking. First, unscrew the spark plugs. In this case, the engine must be warm. This prepared mixture is poured into the cylinders. It is prohibited to do this procedure on a hot engine, since acetone can boil at elevated temperatures, which will lead to it splashing out and getting on the paintwork of the body and areas sensitive to chemicals.
Next, the candles are put in place and waited for about 12 hours. Then unscrew the spark plugs again and turn the starter for 15-20 seconds to expel excess fluid from the cylinders. If the spark plugs are not unscrewed, the spark plugs will become very dirty.
Before cranking the engine with the starter with the spark plugs removed, you need to turn off the spark supply to the high-voltage wires by removing the central wire from the distributor or from the ignition coil.
When purging the cylinders, you should cover the engine with some material to protect the paintwork from contact with caustic liquid.
At the end of the whole process, you need to start the engine and drive a little at different speeds. At the same time, it is not recommended to drive near traffic police posts, as they may find the smoky exhaust suspicious. This procedure is carried out to consolidate the effect: fill in new oil, preferably cheap, then immediately drain it. Replace the oil filter. After this, you can enjoy driving your car.
How to get rid of carbon deposits with water
Many skilled drivers have learned to use water to remove carbon deposits. This method is not inferior in efficiency to conventional standard methods with chemical reagents. Let's take a closer look at this original method.
Necessary materials
To perform this cheap method, you need to prepare the following materials:
- Medical dropper.
- Thin plastic or rubber hose.
- Two liters of distilled water.
- Tee for connecting the washer.
Distilled water must be prepared in a plastic bottle.
Procedure
- Connect the hose from the distilled water bottle to the suction pump. It is convenient to use a dropper for this. If you can’t get distilled water, you can use regular water; the dropper will filter it.
- When the engine reaches a rotation speed of 2000 rpm, you need to start supplying water.
- Approximately two drops should be delivered per second. They enter the cylinder at idle and are able to clean carbon deposits.
As a result, carbon deposits will be cleaned, and the engine will operate more dynamically and economically.
Features of decarbonization
Fuel in the modern period has improved significantly compared to the stagnant period. However, this does not protect the engine from the formation of carbon deposits on the piston rings. The situation is the same with motor oil: many drivers say that the oil in Soviet times was of very high quality. This may be true, but today not a single master will say that when using it, carbon deposits do not form in the cylinders. Due to the formation of persistent deposits, major repairs will sometimes still have to be performed.
Myths about decoking
Cleaning rings and pistons in an engine always causes a lot of controversy among mechanics and drivers of different ages. Let's look at certain misconceptions that are often encountered.
- If you use special additives to decarbonize piston rings, the carbon deposits will disappear completely. This is an incorrect statement, since complete cleaning requires the use of a very caustic concentrated product that can corrode engine parts. Excessive engine cleanliness is not required for engine operation.
- Decarbonization can be performed on a cold engine. Warming up the engine before this process is mandatory, otherwise a positive result will not be achieved.
- The operating principle of cleaning products is different for each brand of engine. This is also a misconception, since all repair work is carried out in the same way, according to the usual procedure. Therefore, there is no need to look for special products for gasoline or diesel engines. The only limitation is that decarbonization cannot be carried out in winter.
- The price for decarbonizers is very high. Only beginners say this; chemical reagents are not expensive compared to the price of a major engine overhaul. There are also many domestic manufacturers of piston ring cleaning products, which are of good quality and low cost.
- Only XADO and LAVR products are the only methods for cleaning the engine. This is an incorrect statement. Of course, such anti-cokes have a good effect on the condition of the engine cylinders, but such products can only be used for small-displacement conventional engines.
- Modern engines do not require decoking. The operation of all automotive equipment occurs in various conditions, including in winter. This plays an important role in the occurrence of soot. Modern engines are no exception, and in this regard they are no different from old engines.
There are chemicals that do not require removing the spark plugs. The most popular of them was “Edial”. The method of its use is simple: the product is poured into the fuel tank before refueling.
How to protect your engine from carbon deposits
In order not to deal with carbon deposits, it is better to try to prevent it. You will spend much less money and save your nerves. To do this, you need to follow some recommendations:
- Use special additives.
- Change the oil periodically.
- Warm up the engine before driving, especially in cold weather.
- Operate the car more often and do not sit idle in traffic jams.
- Do not drive at low engine speeds.
If a car consumes oil and fuel above the prescribed value, then decarbonization cannot be avoided - you need to apply one of the methods discussed and put the car's engine in order.
If the engine wear is very high, then decarbonization will no longer help, but will only harm. The engine passes a large amount of gasoline, and it does not burn. Unburned fuel and oil in the cylinder, as well as other substances, form deposits on the piston rings. But with minor wear and tear, the life of the motor will extend slightly. The question of choosing a decarbonization method often arises. When it is necessary to clean the engine from carbon deposits, you should choose the method that is most convenient for you and fits the parameters.
We have looked at a large number of methods for decarbonizing engines, and you can easily choose the required type of cleaning procedure.
What causes compression to drop and why does it happen unevenly?
If we do not consider cases related to valve leaks, then the main reason for a drop in compression is a malfunction of the piston set due to coking or wear of parts.
Wear and coking of the piston rings, piston and the entire engine occurs unevenly both across different cylinders and along the height of each of them. Therefore, measurements often show that the performance of one or more cylinders differs from the norm and fails in compression.
The speed and intensity of these processes are influenced by different temperature conditions, different lubrication and combustion conditions, as well as specific factors - for example, where crankcase gases are supplied. Naturally, the quality of fuel and oil is of great importance. The worse it is, the faster cokes and carbon deposits form in the cylinders.
Our grandfathers used kerosene, water or solvents to clean piston and cylinders. What is the best liquid for decarbonizing the LAVR ML-202 engine?
Most household solvents do not cope with the problem at all and can even be dangerous. Water - even more so. Engine decoking agent LAVR ML-202 is a special product that has several important properties. It is capable of dissolving persistent carbon deposits, easily penetrates through small gaps, and forms an active “steam bath”, due to which the liquid actively saturates the deposits.
The drug also contains surface-active components, one of the functions of which is to protect the cylinders from wear during decoking and starting the engine after it.
Is LAVR ML-202 safe for parts?
The decoking liquid only affects coke deposits and carbon deposits, so it is safe for any structural materials of the car, including aluminum.
Will the problem with increased oil consumption be solved after decoking the engine?
Engine oil consumption can increase for many reasons: due to wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group, coking of piston rings, oil entering the cylinder through crankcase ventilation, oil leakage through valve guides, incorrect selection of oil, etc. If the problem arose precisely because of the coking of the rings, then decoking will help. If oil consumption has increased for other reasons, then decarbonization will be a kind of engine diagnostics.
Will your fluid help if the car service recommends major repairs?
In case of malfunctions in the operation of the car, services often “prescribe” engine overhaul, since it is more profitable and makes it possible to carry out defect detection (actual assessment of the condition of parts). In many cases, decoking the engine with LAVR ML-202 actually allows you to increase compression and avoid major repairs. If the cylinder-piston set is badly worn or the reason for the drop in compression lies in something else (for example, leaky valves), then the engine will have to be repaired. In any case, we advise you not to neglect decoking. Even in car services, the drug is used to more accurately diagnose engine problems.
How to decarbonize a V-twin or boxer engine?
Custom engines are more difficult to decarbonize than conventional inline engines. However, the general principle is the same.
- you will need more fluid than to decarbonize a standard inline four-cylinder engine
- for the best effect, the liquid should cover the piston completely or at least three-quarters. In this case, the engine decoking agent will seep well into the piston grooves and saturate the carbon deposits on the rings
- You can decarbonize the cylinders one by one. Partially use the liquid that remains after decoking the previous cylinder. In this case, you may not need a large amount of LAVR ML202
- To reduce the consumption of the drug, you can manually “press” the filled liquid on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. Then the decoking liquid will completely fill the volume of the combustion chamber. This is how a boxer engine is usually decarbonized.
Is it possible to decarbonize the engine of a snowmobile, motorcycle or moped?
Engine decoking agent LAVR ML-202 is suitable for treating any piston internal combustion engines.
My car has very high mileage. Decarbonization was never carried out. Will it damage my car?
We recommend that you use caution when decoking the engine on older cars with high mileage. The fact is that with significant wear of the piston and rings, deposits act as sealing structural elements, thanks to which the required level of compression is maintained in the cylinders.
If deposits are removed, the clearance between the piston and cylinder will increase and compression may drop. Modern engines are less susceptible to this effect, since their parts are initially better adjusted to each other.
After the car had been sitting in the garage for a long time, the compression dropped. Will decoking help restore it?
Decoking can be done. But we note that an idle engine could not coke. However, in many cases our product restored compression after a long period of inactivity.
Will there be an effect if decarbonization is carried out in cold weather or not on a warm engine?
Decarbonization can also be carried out in cold weather, and also not on a warm engine. But the effectiveness of the procedure will be somewhat less, since there will be no “steam bath” in the cylinders, thanks to which liquid vapors will thoroughly saturate the carbon deposits and cokes of the combustion chambers. We advise you to leave the engine with decoking liquid poured into it for 12 hours or 24 hours.
Is it important to set the pistons to the middle position before introducing the decoking agent into the cylinders? How to do it?
We recommend setting the pistons to the middle position in order to create approximately the same conditions for decoking of different cylinders. Cylinder wear is uneven along the height, and this affects how fluid will leak into the bottom of the piston.
In addition, raising the piston to the maximum will simply prevent you from pouring the required amount of the drug. However, not every engine allows you to comply with this rule. Therefore, we advise you to treat this as an important clarification, and not a mandatory condition.
Read more about how to set the pistons to the middle position here.
Why do you need to move the pistons during decoking?
It is not necessary to move the pistons while the engine is decoking, but it is advisable if possible. This is especially useful if you carry out express decarbonization in 1 hour. Thanks to this, the liquid will better seep into the lower part of the piston, saturating and softening carbon deposits in the piston grooves and on the rings.
Is it possible to increase the exposure time of LAVR ML-202? Will this damage the engine?
Of course you can! The instructions for the drug indicate that the exposure time can range from 1 hour (express decarbonization) to a day, if this is convenient. If necessary, you can leave the drug infused for 3-5 days.
It happens that the drug is left in the cylinders for several weeks due to various circumstances. No negative effects on engine parts were detected.
Is the oil film washed off from parts during decoking? Could this cause scoring on the piston and cylinder when the engine is cranked?
Engine decoking agent LAVR ML-202 is a special cleaner. Unlike conventional solvents, it contains surfactants. These components cover the parts with a film that protects them when the crankshaft is first cranked. Therefore, the formation of scuffing on the piston is excluded.
Why does some of the decoking liquid remain in the cylinder after decoking?
There may be several reasons for this:
Some of the fluid remains in the recesses of the piston crown and, therefore, cannot leak into the crankcase.
The pistons are at different levels. The piston located lower in the cylinder is sealed better because the cylinder is less worn in its lower part. This prevents liquid from leaking out.
The deposits soaked in the product swelled and formed a mixed gel, which prevented the seepage of liquid.
What should I do if, after decoking, the engine does not start the first time?
Check whether you have assembled the parts correctly after decoking. This is the most common reason that the engine does not start after decarbonization. If everything is assembled correctly and the problem remains, dry the spark plugs and cylinders by blowing them with compressed air.
After decoking, the car began to smoke heavily when starting the engine. Is this normal?
There is nothing terrible about the fact that after decoking white smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe - it is the remaining deposits and liquid that got into the exhaust system that burn out.
Does the drug damage catalysts and spark plugs?
Our product is absolutely safe for catalysts, spark plugs, rubber parts and other parts if you do everything according to the instructions.
Is it necessary to flush the oil system after decoking and before changing the oil?
It is not necessary to flush the lubrication system with specialized preparations. But we recommend carrying out such cleaning, as this helps to more completely remove softened contaminants after decarbonization. Our oil system flushing products or the product from the engine decoking kit are ideal for these purposes.
Is it possible not to change the oil after decoking?
Changing the oil after decoking is a must! The instructions clearly state that the oil must be changed immediately, and we cannot recommend otherwise. However, sometimes we allow ourselves to drive to the oil change station with caution. At the same time we:
We are sure that the oil level in the crankcase is not too low, and the decoking fluid has not diluted it to its limit.
We treat distances reasonably: 3-5 kilometers in gentle mode is not a problem for the engine.
We are more than sober about the load on the engine when driving: we don’t overestimate the speed, don’t overload the cabin with a crowd of people, and don’t overload the trunk with bags of potatoes and the like.
After decoking, compression was not restored. What does this mean?
There may be several reasons: actual wear of rubbing parts, air leaks through leaky valves, breakage of piston parts - for example, due to detonation.
Is it possible to combine injector flushing and engine decoking? What's better?
It is possible to combine. But if there are no particular problems with the engine, it is enough to flush the injection system at a car service with preparations for flushing injection or diesel systems (LAVR ML-101 and LAVR ML-102). Both rinses have a decoking effect, which will be sufficient for prevention. coking of piston rings.
If you suspect engine coking, use LAVR ML-202.
Can the LAVR ML-202 engine decoking drug be used to flush the injection system?
Sooner or later, carbon deposits form in any engine. First, the rings become coked, then deposits appear on the valve system in the combustion chamber. The addition of special additives, the use of high-quality oil and proper operation significantly reduce the intensity of contamination, but do not eliminate the problem completely. Motorists have to resort to special vehicles.
Coking of rings: reasons
If the engine system is in good working order and the vehicle is used correctly, minimal carbon deposits will form. A certain amount of oil still enters the combustion chamber, causing the build-up of a layer of soot/varnish on the cylinder-piston group. In this case, decarbonization may be necessary once per 100 thousand km or even less often.
But the influence of additional factors can speed up the process. Premature coking is provoked by:
- overheating of the engine, its boiling - if the piston heats up above the coking temperature, carbon deposits form much more intensely;
- low fuel quality;
- low quality motor oil, the presence of questionable additives in it;
- engine oil does not correspond to that recommended by the manufacturer;
- driving with a cold engine;
- constant driving at low speeds;
- constant driving under increased loads;
- violation of the formation and/or combustion of the air-fuel mixture; An excessively enriched fuel mixture is also detrimental to the engine.
First of all, the products of oil combustion settle on the oil scraper rings, as well as on the pistons, inside the combustion chamber, and on the valves. In the latter case, carbon deposits prevent the valve from fitting tightly to the seat, which leads to incorrect engine operation.
The following signs indicate the need for decoking:
- increased oil consumption (the norm is 100 g per 1 thousand km);
- change in exhaust color to bluish or white;
- reduction in engine power;
- decreased compression in one or more cylinders;
- increase in exhaust toxicity, appearance of a characteristic odor.
What are the consequences of coking of piston rings?
Even with slight carbon deposits, the operation of the cylinder-piston group is disrupted. More and more oil enters the combustion chamber, and carbon deposits begin to accumulate more intensely. If decarbonization is not carried out in time, the layers of soot will thicken until the elements of the propulsion system completely fail.
A large layer of coke on the valves leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinders, later to burnout of the valves and squeezing out of the piston rings.
Decoking of engine rings: how is it done?
If a motorist decides to clean the engine himself, he needs to buy a special composition for hard decarbonization and use it according to the instructions. When purchasing, you should pay attention to what type of engine (petrol, diesel) the product is intended for, as well as the volume of the container. Some packages are designed to fill only one cylinder.
Sometimes car owners prepare the cleaning liquid themselves by mixing acetone and kerosene (2:1 or 1:1). In terms of effectiveness, such products are inferior to professional formulations; its use can do more harm than good.
Do-it-yourself decarbonization is carried out in several steps:
- The engine warms up to operating temperature. It is necessary to let it idle for 5-10 minutes. This will allow the cleaning composition to better cope with its task.
- High-voltage wires are removed from the coils.
- The spark plugs are removed.
- Low voltage wires are removed.
- The oil is drained into a clean container. You will need it later.
- Cleaning liquid is poured into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. You can use a syringe. It is more efficient to decarbonize all cylinders at once.
- The pistons are set to the middle position. To do this, you need to turn the crankshaft and, using an auxiliary tool (you can use a wire), set the piston in the desired position.
- The spark plugs are screwed in slightly (but not completely), and the vehicle is left alone for up to 12 hours (depending on the manufacturer's instructions on the cleaning solution packaging).
- After 6-12 hours, the candles are carefully unscrewed. If you do this carelessly, the decarbonizing liquid will “fly away” into the crater, and the softened carbon deposits will splash out.
- The oil cap is unscrewed and the liquid in which the carbon has dissolved is carefully drained.
- The oil drained at the beginning of the procedure is poured back into the engine.
- Without replacing the spark plugs and ignition coil, the engine cranks on the starter for 5-10 minutes.
- The system is being assembled. After this, you need to drive the car for 20 minutes for better cleaning. During the process, it is recommended to increase the speed to 4000 from time to time.
- Finally, the oil and oil filter are changed. Sometimes the spark plugs also need to be replaced.
When driving after the procedure, you may notice that the exhaust has an unnatural color. It is recommended to perform a test drive away from busy highways and traffic police posts.
Prevention of coking or easy cleaning
Decarbonization of engine rings can be done in a gentle manner. To do this, a special composition for gentle cleaning is added to the engine oil before changing it. Then the car is operated in gentle conditions for 100-300 km, after which the oil is changed.
In recent years, you can find products for the so-called dynamic decarbonization on sale. A special composition is added to the fuel and, entering the combustion chamber with it, penetrates the coke layer, destroying it. The vehicle is operated under normal conditions. This method is also suitable for prevention, but not for eliminating severe soot.
Cleaning Features
Despite its apparent simplicity, the procedure for cleaning the engine has many nuances and complexities. Before you begin, you should learn how to decarbonize the engine correctly. An error may require major repairs or re-cleaning at a car service center.
Important details:
- The quality of cleaning depends on the quality of the composition. If you decide to save on the services of a specialist, then do not skimp on at least the composition for decarbonization.
- Violation of the procedure technology leads to incomplete dissolution of carbon deposits. For example, rapid cooling of the engine in cold weather reduces the effectiveness of the solvent. Therefore, in the cold season, it is better to carry out decarbonization in a workshop where there is a special room.
- Solvents are toxic and hazardous to health. Working in a room without good ventilation (for example, in a closed garage in winter), the car owner can get seriously poisoned.
- Features of the procedure depend on the type of engine. It will be difficult for a non-specialist to remove the spark plugs of a V-shaped or boxer engine and fill in the solvent. Boxer engines have a non-standard arrangement: the spark plugs are difficult to reach, and the cleaning composition can leak if not handled carefully.
- To decarbonize a diesel engine, you will have to remove the injectors. To do this you will need a special tool.
- Without experience, it is difficult to set the pistons exactly in the middle position.
- You need to guess the amount of solvent being poured. The volume of the combustion chamber depends on the specific motor, and the instructions for using the cleaning agent are almost the same. It takes years of experience to know how much solvent to add. If you overdo it, the excess will get into the oil mixture and damage the rubber parts. If you don’t add enough, the carbon deposits will not be cleared.
After decoking, the engine regains its original performance qualities, its service life increases - but only if all the work was done correctly. If you do not have experience and value your car, it is better to contact a service center for decarbonization.
Why is engine decarbonization done?
When fuel burns in cylinders, persistent deposits and coke inevitably form, which:
· cover the surfaces of pistons and valves;
· clog the gaps in the piston bores and hinder the mobility of the oil scraper and compression piston rings (even to the point of their “stuck”);
· clog the oil channels in the pistons, preventing lubrication of the piston pin;
· the oil drainage channels in the piston skirt become clogged, reducing the efficiency of the oil scraper piston rings.
As a result, the efficiency of the compression and oil scraper rings decreases,
· compression in the cylinders is disrupted, and, as a result, engine power drops;
· vibrations appear, including due to the resulting difference in the compression of different cylinders;
· consumption of engine oil due to waste increases;
· fuel consumption increases;
· wear of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) is significantly accelerated.
Removing contaminants as a result of engine bracing can normalize the operation of the CPG and extend the engine's life.
Is it really worth decoking the engine?
The result of engine decarbonization is directly determined by three main factors:
· condition of the engine and “negligence” of deposits;
· the effectiveness of the product used;
· adherence to effective technology.
So what result can you expect when using a good product correctly? There are 3 answer options:
· improvement (compression equalization across cylinders, improved throttle response, normalized idle speed, reduced fuel and engine oil consumption, elimination of increased exhaust smoke);
· no noticeable result (compression may level out somewhat);
· deterioration (which is rare).
What determines the result of engine bracing? First of all, at what wear and stage of contamination the procedure is performed. Three stages of pollution can be distinguished:
· initial pollution, the negative impact of which is not clearly recorded;
· average level of contaminants, which already negatively affect the operation of the engine and, at the same time, are still susceptible to the effects of the product used;
· persistent contaminants that negatively affect engine operation and are resistant to the decarbonizing agent used.
The transition from one stage to another is individual and depends on the design of the engine, the oil used, spark plugs, and operating mode. We can carefully indicate that the middle stage is from 100 to 180 thousand km, the third stage is from 200 thousand km. and more.
The result of decarbonization will be noticeable in the second stage, but not noticeable in the first and second.
At the same time, the use of engine decarbonization at the first stage (initial contamination with an imperceptible effect) is most useful as a means of preventing the above-mentioned negative manifestations and extends the engine life with regular treatment.
Decoking at an advanced stage of pollution is practically useless - a major overhaul is required with disassembly of the internal combustion engine and mechanical cleaning of persistent deposits. In this case, you can only get the piston surface cleaned and, sometimes, some mobility of the compression rings. In this case, “stuck” oil scraper rings and completely clogged oil channels in the piston most likely will not be cleaned, which means the most significant goals will not be achieved.
It is also important to understand that the liquid for decarbonizing the engine does not have a restoring effect in case of severe wear of the metal friction pairs in the CPG, and is not capable of restoring the elasticity and efficiency of valve seals. Even with a positive cleaning effect on the mobility of the piston rings after treatment, it is unlikely that a significant reduction in engine oil consumption will be noticeable, because such consumption may be caused by other, more significant factors.
This procedure must be carried out both in engines of previous generations, designed for medium-quality motor oils, and in modern internal combustion engines with their minimal clearances, high temperatures and loaded operating conditions.
What result of engine decarbonization can you expect?
Engine decarbonization with an effective formula of active components, performed in a timely and regular manner:
- Safely cleans the surface of the piston, piston rings, surface of the combustion chamber and valves from carbon deposits;
- cleans the lubrication and oil drain channels from contaminants in the piston;
- normalizes and equalizes compression in the cylinders;
- significantly increases engine life.
- the power characteristics of the engine and the dynamic characteristics of the car are restored;
- engine oil consumption and exhaust smoke are reduced;
- Fuel consumption is slightly reduced;
- the engine runs smoother and quieter.
How often to decarbonize the engine
Existing formulations recommend decoking the engine every 20-25 thousand kilometers, i.e. immediately before every second maintenance with engine oil change. If the equipment operates in difficult conditions, for which its manufacturer recommends shortening oil change intervals, then, accordingly, engine bracing must be carried out at intervals of 10-15 thousand kilometers.
Instructions for engine decarbonization
Processing must be carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In general, the process of decoking an engine with your own hands is as follows:
- warm up the engine to operating temperature (at least 70 degrees Celsius);
- disconnect the ignition system (for example, disconnect the ignition coil terminal or center wire);
- turn off the electric fuel pump (by removing the corresponding fuse);
- remove spark plugs (glow plugs);
- set the pistons to a position close to the middle one by turning the crankshaft by the pulley nut or by the drive wheel raised by a jack with the last gear of the manual transmission engaged, or try to “get there” with several attempts by turning on the starter (the position of the pistons is determined by inserting sticks of suitable length into the holes for the spark plugs);
- using a syringe with an extension flexible tube, pour an equal amount of engine decarbonization fluid into the cylinders;
- screw in the spark plugs at least a few turns of thread to create a “steam bath” in the cylinders (from this stage you can use used but serviceable spark plugs from garage stock);
- pause according to the product manufacturer’s instructions;
- During the pause, periodically move the pistons slightly, rotating the crankshaft by 10-15 degrees 5 times in one direction or the other using the above methods to apply forces to the piston rings, which should facilitate the penetration of liquid into contaminants, the release of the rings from their “stagnation” and release of contaminants from the grooves in the pistons;
- unscrew the spark plugs;
- remove any remaining dirty liquid from the cylinders by pumping them out using a flexible tube and syringe;
- add 1-2 cm3 of engine oil to each cylinder (in the area of the piston rings) with a separate syringe to restore the washed off oil film in order to ensure normal compression to facilitate engine starting;
- cover the holes for the candles with thick cloth to catch splashes;
- turn on the ignition and rotate the engine shaft 2-3 times for 5 seconds;
- remove fabric and drips, paying special attention to the spark plug wells;
- screw in used spark plugs (glow plugs) from garage stock, connect the ignition system and electric fuel pump;
- start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes until it reaches operating temperature (in this case, short-term smoke may occur due to the burnout of drug residues and deposits);
- fill in the engine quick flush preparation, if its use is recommended by the manufacturer of the decarbonizing fluid, let the engine run according to the instructions, turn off the internal combustion engine;
- replace the engine oil and oil filter;
- replace the spark plugs with the main ones (immediately or, better yet, after 200-300 km).
Decarbonizing an engine with your own hands is not very difficult, as can be seen from the description. However, it is still necessary to have minimal metalworking skills and knowledge of the design.
Possible difficulties and negative consequences of engine decarbonization
Negative results with the correct selection of products and adherence to technology are usually determined by excessive wear. Removed deposits can open up larger gaps and reduce compression in the cylinders, increasing noise.
After treatment, difficulties may arise when starting the engine for the first time due to the following reasons:
· residual liquid in the cylinders (it is recommended to remove them by suction using a syringe with a flexible hose);
· washing off the oil film that provides the necessary compression (it is recommended to add very little motor oil to the cylinders in the area of the piston rings - just a really small amount, so as not to “kill” the engine with water hammer when starting, since oil as a liquid does not compress);
· a weak battery, the charge of which was used for cranking during the process (before processing, it is recommended to check the battery, charge it if necessary, or ensure that you have a charger or backup battery).
Increased smoking immediately after the first start-up is not actually a negative consequence, because passes quickly.
Of course, a number of difficulties can be caused by violations of the technology recommended by the manufacturer and errors during the work - inattention when connecting disconnected wires, etc.
Separately, please note that during processing, the aggressive decarbonizer liquid penetrates the engine crankcase and mixes with the engine oil. You cannot operate a car with such a mixture, because... this is fraught with negative consequences. Manufacturers of the products directly indicate this in the instructions. Here lies a practical nuance: the procedure for direct decoking of the engine takes a long time; in reality, many car owners do not have the opportunity to spend all this time with the car in an on-site service center, where they can immediately perform a subsequent oil change. And the question arises: is it possible to directly straighten the bracing in a place convenient for yourself (in front of the house or in your garage), and then drive the car to a service station for an oil change? Taking into account the fact that in the instructions for some drugs, manufacturers recommend warming up the engine to operating temperature during the flushing stage after bracing, we can make a reasonable conclusion that a short haul is possible without negative consequences. But it is still impossible to operate the car and carry out long hauls without changing the oil after treatment.
Conclusion
Timely periodic decoking of the engine may not be noticeable by visible signs, but when using effective preparations it is an effective means of cleaning continuously accumulating contaminants and a real way to extend the life of the internal combustion engine and ensure its normal operation. It is recommended to carry out the treatment approximately before every second maintenance with an engine oil change.
Engine decarbonization gives a visible effect only when the contaminants have already negatively affected the operation of the engine, but they are still malleable and can be removed with the chosen product.
Decoking of the engine does not restore excessive wear of the cylinder-piston group parts, therefore, in case of critical wear and stuck piston rings, it is more reasonable to give preference to a major overhaul with mechanical cleaning of persistent contaminants on those parts that can still be used.
