The mechanical design of a wind generator in its pure form is only part of a complete wind power plant. A fully usable system, in addition to the mechanical structure, also has a number of electronic components.
For example, a controller for a wind generator is required - a device functionally designed to stabilize the battery charge parameters during the operation of the wind turbine.
Let's figure out what functions the device performs and give diagrams for assembling the controller yourself. In addition, we will outline the features of the work and the advisability of purchasing a Chinese electronic unit for a windmill.
If it is quite possible to make a mechanical windmill yourself, is it possible to make a windmill controller yourself?
In order to have some idea about wind generator controllers and successfully reproduce such equipment with your own hands, basic information about these devices will not be superfluous.
Battery charge controller for a low-power wind generator. Control of some system parameters is carried out through a built-in LCD display
The controller that serves batteries is primarily designed to control the battery charging process. This is its main function, but it should be conditionally divided into a number of subfunctions.
For example, one functionality monitors the charge current and self-discharge current. Another functionality implements actions aimed at measuring temperature and pressure. The third is responsible for compensating for the difference in energy flows when the battery is charged simultaneously with the current consumption by the load.
Industrially manufactured devices are equipped with full functionality. But the same cannot be said about amateur designs. Devices made on the basis of simple circuit solutions at home with your own hands are controllers that are far from perfect models.
However, they work and allow you to operate quite productively. As a rule, homemade designs implement only one function - protection against overvoltage and deep discharge.
One of the many variations of controllers for wind turbines, made by yourself. Such designs are distinguished by simple technical solutions and simple installation.
Why is the introduction of a controller into a wind turbine system a must?
Because in the mode of energy replenishment of the battery without using a controller, unpleasant consequences should be expected:
- Degradation of the battery structure due to uncontrolled chemical processes.
- Uncontrolled increase in pressure and electrolyte temperature.
- Loss of battery charging properties due to the long-term discharge taking place.
The charge controller for a wind turbine circuit is usually made in the form of a separate electronic module. This module is removable and quickly disconnected. Industrially manufactured devices are necessarily equipped with an indication of modes and states - light or visually transmitted through a display.
In practice, two types of devices can be used: those built directly into the wind generator housing and those connected to the battery.
Circuit solutions for DIY assembly
Since the first ones appeared, the number of controller circuit solutions has increased many times over. Many of the circuit designs are far from perfect, but there are some options that you should pay attention to.
For domestic use, of course, simple schemes that require little financial investment, are effective and reliable are relevant.
Based on these requirements, you can start with a controller for a wind generator, created on the basis of car relay regulators. The circuit uses both relays with a negative control contact and relays with a positive control contact.
This option attracts with a small number of parts and simple installation. You only need one relay, one power transistor (field effect), one resistor.
The circuit is called “ballast”, since it uses an additional load in the form of an ordinary incandescent light bulb. Thus, the list of parts will be replenished with one more element - a lamp.
A 12-volt automotive lamp (or several lamps) is used, depending on the power of the system. It is also permissible to use a different type of load resistance instead of this element: a powerful resistor, an electric heater, a fan, etc.
Operation of the “ballast” circuit with a minus
The action of an automobile relay-regulator is directly related to the charge level of the battery. If the voltage at the battery terminals rises above 14.2 volts, the relay is activated and opens the negative circuit of the power transistor.
In turn, a transition opens on the transistor, connecting the direct incandescent lamp to the battery. As a result, the charging current is discharged through the filament of the incandescent lamp. When the voltage at the battery terminals decreases, the process is reversed. This ensures a stable battery voltage level is maintained.
How does a “ballast” circuit with a plus work?
A slightly modernized version of the “ballast” charge controller for a windmill is the second circuit on a relay regulator with a positive control contact. For example, relays from VAZ cars are suitable.
The difference from the previous circuit is the use of a solid-state relay, for example, GTH6048ZA2 for a current of 60A instead of a transistor. The advantages are obvious: the circuit looks even simpler and at the same time has greater reliability and efficiency.
Another simple circuit design solution for assembling a wind generator battery charge controller. The efficiency and reliability of the circuit is increased due to the use of a solid-state relay (+)
The special feature of this simple solution is the direct battery of the windmill generator. The conductors of the charge controller are also “planted” directly on the battery contacts.
In fact, both of these parts of the scheme are in no way connected with each other. Voltage from the wind generator is supplied to the battery constantly. When the voltage at the battery terminals reaches 14.2 W, the solid state relay connects the load to reset. This way the battery is protected by the device from overcharging.
Here, not only an incandescent lamp can act as a ballast load. It is quite possible to connect any other device designed for a current of up to 60 A. For example, an electric tubular heater.
What is also important in this circuit is that the action of the solid-state relay is characterized by a smoothly increasing amplitude. In essence, the effect of a professionally manufactured PWM controller is evident.
A complicated version of the controller circuit
If the previous version of the circuit design for the battery charge controller only resembles a PWM (pulse width modulation) device, here this principle is implemented specifically.
This controller circuit for a windmill with a three-phase generator has some difficulties, since it involves the use of microcircuits - in particular, operational amplifiers on field-effect transistors as part of the TL084 assembly.
However, on the circuit board everything does not look as complicated as on a piece of paper.
Circuit solution for assembling a controller with your own hands, using the TL084 microassembly. The operating principle is also built using a relay to switch modes, but it is possible to adjust the cut-off points (+)
Just as in previous solutions, a relay is used as a switching element for the ballast load. The relay is designed to work with a 12-volt battery, but if desired, you can choose a 24-watt model.
The ballast resistor is made in the form of a powerful resistance (winding on nichrome ceramics). To adjust the operating voltage range (11.5-18 W), the circuit uses variable resistors included in the control circuit of the TL084 microelectronic assembly.
This windmill battery charge controller works as follows. The three-phase current received from the wind generator is rectified by power diodes.
A constant voltage is generated at the output of the diode bridge, which is supplied to the input of the circuit through relay contacts, an additional diode, a battery, and then to the in-circuit stabilizer (78L08) and to the input of the TL084 assembly.
The moment the trigger switches to one of the states is determined by the values of the variable resistors (Low V and High V) of the lower and upper voltage thresholds.
As long as there is a voltage at the battery terminals that does not exceed 14.2 volts (meeting the R High V setting), charging is performed. As soon as the values change upward, the operational amplifier TL084 supplies a signal to the base of the transistor, which controls the relay.
A do-it-yourself product based on the microassembly scheme TL084. Everything is extremely simple, even instead of a high-quality printed circuit board, a board for surface mounting was chosen. Homemade designs always make us happy with moments like these.
The relay is activated, the power circuit of the circuit is broken and shorted to the ballast resistor. The ballast reset occurs until the battery is discharged, close to the Low V variable resistor setting value.
Once this value is reached, the second operational amplifier TL084 switches the circuit to the reverse state. This is how the controller works.
Chinese electronic alternative
Making a wind generator controller with your own hands is a prestigious matter. But given the speed of development of electronic technologies, the meaning of self-assembly often loses its relevance. In addition, most of the proposed schemes are already obsolete.
It turns out cheaper to buy a ready-made product, made professionally, with high quality installation, using modern electronic components. For example, you can purchase a suitable device at a reasonable cost on Aliexpress.
The range of offers on the Chinese website is impressive. Controllers for wind generators for various power levels are sold at prices starting from 1000 rubles. Based on this amount, in terms of assembling the device with your own hands, the game is clearly not worth the candle.
For example, among the proposals of the Chinese portal there is a model for a 600-watt windmill. The device costs 1070 rubles. Suitable for use with 12/24 volt batteries, operating current up to 30 A.
Quite a decent, Chinese-made charge controller designed for a 600-watt wind generator. Such a device can be ordered from China and received via mail in about a month and a half
A high-quality all-weather controller housing measuring 100x90 mm is equipped with a powerful cooling radiator. The housing design complies with protection class IP67. External temperature range from – 35 to +75ºС. On the housing there is a light indication of the wind generator state modes.
The question is, what is the point in spending time and effort assembling a simple structure with your own hands, if there is a real opportunity to buy something similar and technically serious?
Well, if this model is not enough, the Chinese have some really cool options. Thus, among the new arrivals there was a 2 kW model with an operating voltage of 96 volts.
Chinese product from the new arrival list. Provides battery charge control, working in conjunction with a 2 kW wind generator. Accepts input voltage up to 96 volts
True, the cost of this controller is already five times more expensive than the previous development. But again, if you compare the costs of producing something similar with your own hands, the purchase looks like a rational decision.
The only thing that confuses us about Chinese products is that they tend to suddenly stop working in the most inopportune cases. Therefore, the purchased device often has to be brought to fruition - naturally, with your own hands. But this is much easier and simpler than making a wind generator charge controller yourself from scratch.
For lovers of homemade products, our website has a series of articles dedicated to the manufacture of wind generators:
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
The desire to make equipment for home use with your own hands is sometimes stronger than a simpler solution - buying an inexpensive device. See what came out of this in the video:
Assessing the prospects for manufacturing electronics on our own, regardless of its purpose, we have to face the idea that the age of “homemade” is coming to an end.
The market is oversaturated with ready-made electronic devices and modular components for almost every household product. Amateur electronics engineers now have only one thing left to do - to assemble home construction kits.
Do you have anything to add, or do you have any questions about assembling and using controllers for a wind generator? You can leave comments, ask questions and add photos of your homemade products - the contact form is in the lower block.
Frequently asked question by all newbies about which controller is worth buying for a particular battery. And what do Amps mean in the controller characteristics. Let me separately try to tell you in this topic what these amps are. Let's start with what is perhaps the most important thing: the amperes that are indicated on the controller are different concepts for different manufacturers of both solar and wind generator controllers. All manufacturers interpret the data in their own way, which is why many people have confusion and misunderstandings about choosing a controller. Below I will try to give examples and ways to avoid problems in the future.
The first thing we'll start with is:
- A charge controller is a device that controls the charging process of the battery; they are divided into two popular categories:
1. What is PWM- this is a pulse width modulation controller, its task is to charge the battery with pulses, controlling the battery voltage level: in this case, charge control can be carried out strictly (in other words, supposedly in automatic mode). Or in manual mode, where you can manually set the required voltages to charge the battery. Read the controller instructions. I recommend choosing a controller with manual input capability. And a rarity is controllers with preset values. A rarity, because nowadays such controllers often come with the ability to select a manual mode. This controller is good because it requires almost no energy to operate, and the consumption of such controllers rarely exceeds 100 mA.
They are less affected by bad weather, and if there is at least 10 mA current at the input, and the voltage exceeds the battery voltage, the controller will charge. I would also consider as a plus the recently discovered effect of rapid aging of the panel, due to cell degradation from temperature. With these controllers, the power removed from the panels ranges from 0 to 80% as the battery charges. At the same time, solar panels heat up less, and the elements do not suffer from degradation due to overheating even on the hottest day, since the temperature does not rise above +60-70 degrees Celsius. One of the advantages is stable operation in any weather!
2. What is MPPT— This is a controller that has the function of tracking the maximum point of the solar panel, in Russian these are OMTP controllers. In English it sounds like maximum power point tracking.The task of this controller is to squeeze all the juice out of the solar panel, and at the same time receive from the solar power plant or wind generator, depending on the type of controller, all the peak power that your system is capable of. It sounds great, but is it really so, you can read . There are controllers that can limit the charge current, but this is rare; you need to read the description of the controller. One example of a controller with charge current limitation is the solar charge controller from Sibkontakt SKZ 40
So, what is the current that is indicated on the controllers. Again, for each controller, the current that is indicated can have a completely different value, let's look at the main ones:
- the maximum current can be specified - at which the controller will either fail under long-term load, or the protection will work and the battery will stop charging from the controller until it is rebooted, or a new daylight hours will come.
- The current may be short-term or in other words recommended below, but during surges the controller will continue to operate.
- the current can be indicated as the battery charging current, that is, it is not recommended to connect batteries above this current. Otherwise, the controller may not be able to withstand
- the current may be the nominal recommended one, but not the maximum; for example, we can include here old tracers that have a reserve of output current, but the controller heats up well, so additional cooling is required.
In most modern controllers in the budget segment, the maximum current is indicated, that is, the total connected sources should not cross it, and for some even reach it, otherwise the protection will be triggered.
nik34 sent:
A simple diagram of a homemade charge controller for a 12V lead battery from a solar battery is given. When changing the ratings of the elements, it can be adapted to charge other batteries.
This circuit is designed to charge a 12V sealed lead-acid battery from a low-power solar panel, delivering up to a few amperes of current. The series protection diode, which is usually placed at the output of the solar battery to prevent the batteries from discharging when the sun is out, is here replaced by a field-effect transistor, which is controlled by a comparator.
The controller will stop charging when the preset (temperature compensated) battery voltage reaches a set point, and will resume charging when it drops below this threshold. The load will be disconnected from the battery when the voltage on it drops below 11V and will be connected again when it rises to 12.5V.
The circuit has the following characteristics:
- Charge voltage Vbat = 13.8V (adjustable), measured in the presence of charging current;
- Load disconnect when Vbat< 11V (настраивается), включение при 12.5V;
- Temperature compensation of charging voltage;
- The low-power comparator TLC339 can be replaced with a cheap TL393 (or 339);
- Current consumption is less than 0.5mA when using TLC393;
- The voltage drop across the keys is less than 20mV when charging with a current of 0.5A. (You can also use higher-quality field-effect transistors with lower channel on-resistance to obtain better results.)
The actual diagram is shown in the figure below.
This scheme worked great for a year.
The board layout was made in CorelDraw 4, the board file can be downloaded from here - PCB design.
After manufacturing, the board looked something like this.
Note: three DC/DC converters were also located on the board (at 9, 6 and 3V), so the controller itself only occupies the right side of the board. I didn’t use radiators for cooling, so anyone who needs them should figure out how to install them on the board themselves.
The drive with all the components (2 batteries, 2.2Ah each, DC/DC converters and indication) looks like this.
This is another article about the well-known TP4056 microcircuit; many people already love it and have been tested several times by an army of radio amateurs. Yes, and I heard rumors about a miraculous microcircuit. I ordered five experimental ones from the Chinese and began to think about how to assemble them - with a canopy or on a scarf. Here is the most common circuit - a few parts and the microcircuit itself.
Then I came across pieces of PCB and decided to assemble it on a printed circuit board, but it’s not so simple. My cartridge was exhausted after a couple of dozen refills. The question arose to buy a new one, but its price is exorbitant, for me. Then there is only one way out, to paint with nail polish, but they don’t give me any more polish, they said that the polish was not bought for me to spend it on some plaques, no, that’s not a typo, some plaques - yes, no expected...
In general, I sat and thought about what to do with myself, I remembered that scarves can be painted not only with varnish, but also with paraffin and a marker, paraffin is not for me, I can only paint an egg for Easter, and even then not very well. But the marker is a good idea.
I got behind the wheel of my two-wheeled pedal bike and went to the store in search of the treasured permanent marker. I found it right away if anyone is interested, such a marker costs 6 UAH. This is as of 02/29/2016
We draw a scarf, my method is this: make marks with a pushpin on the PCB and connect them with a marker, just like there was such a game in magazines when I was a child.
Okay, I've deviated from the topic, let's continue. I etched it in a solution of copper sulfate, I can say that this is the best remedy, I speak of course on my own behalf - everyone has their own preferences, I will only say that what I like about it is the price, durability and of course the fact that it does not stain everything around like chlorine iron.
We solder our parts: a pair of SMD resistors and two capacitors.
For testing I chose a battery from a laptop battery. Well, the charge has gone, well, whether it charges or not, I’ll see in the morning, and now go to bed.
The morning showed that the charge was successful, but I was in a hurry to go to school and forgot to take a photo. Good luck to everyone in the repetition, and as always, Kalyan.Super.Bos was with you
And what is it for?
Why do you need a charge controller?
A charge controller is a device that automatically regulates the level of current and voltage from a source (such as solar panels) to ensure that batteries are charged, thus protecting the batteries from damage.
Is it possible to do without a charge controller?
Having some experience working with electrical appliances, knowing how to use a voltmeter and ammeter, and having carefully studied the battery instructions for charging and discharging characteristics, you can certainly do without a charge controller.
The battery charge is determined by the voltage between the terminals. There is nothing stopping you from connecting the source (for example, solar panels) directly to the battery, while controlling the voltage values at the terminals and the current from the source (so that the battery is not damaged). When the voltage at the terminals corresponds to the maximum charge, you simply need to turn off the source. This will charge the battery to 60-70% of its maximum capacity. In order to charge it 100%, the battery needs to stabilize - for some time after reaching the maximum voltage, continue charging at this voltage.
With this method of charging the battery, there is a high probability of a decrease in the rated capacity (due to systematic undercharging) or failure due to high current or voltage. This is why various charge controllers are used.
What types of charge controllers are there?
There are mainly three types of charge controllers - on/off controller, PWM (PWM) controller and MPPT (TMM) controllers. What are their features and how do they differ:
on/off charge controller
This device performs the function of disconnecting batteries from the source when a certain voltage is reached. This type of controller is practically not used today. This is the simplest alternative to manually monitoring battery charge, which we talked about earlier.
PWM (PWM) controller
This device is a more advanced option for charging batteries, since it automatically controls the level of current and voltage, and also monitors the onset of maximum voltage. After the maximum voltage is reached, the PWM controller holds it for some time to stabilize the battery and achieve its maximum capacity. Typically, such controllers are inexpensive and can suit simple solar systems.
You can read about how to choose such a controller here –
MPPT (TMM) controllers
This controller is the most modern solution for solar power plants. Solar panels produce power at a strictly defined value of current and voltage (voltage-voltage curve - current-voltage characteristic) - this mode is called the Point of Maximum Power (TPM). MPPT The controller allows you to monitor this point and can use the energy of solar panels most efficiently, which in turn increases the charging rate of the batteries. Such controllers can charge batteries (battery bank) 30-40% more efficiently, therefore, for backup and autonomous solar power plants, the use of such controllers becomes most profitable, despite their high cost relative to PWM controllers.
Which charge controller to choose?
When choosing a controller for a solar system, you first need to understand the scale of the system itself. If you are assembling a small solar system to provide the most necessary household appliances with electricity (from 0.3 kW to 2 kW), then you can get by with a properly selected PWM controller. If we are talking about an autonomous system, a backup system, or, perhaps, a system compatible with network electricity, then in this case you cannot do without a good MPPT controller.
