Home Salon Correct thread tension and stitch settings. Adjusting thread tension on a sewing machine Thread tension regulator on sewing machines

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Correct thread tension and stitch settings. Adjusting thread tension on a sewing machine Thread tension regulator on sewing machines

Most often, the cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in the stitch, uneven stitching, omissions, etc. All this often depends on the quality and thickness of the thread and the condition of the upper thread tensioner.

This is how looping of the top thread in the stitch (bottom) will occur if the thread is too thick or twisted.
Skips and thread breaks can also appear for this reason.

Uneven progress of even a thin and elastic thread along its path will lead to the appearance of oblique stitches, tightening of the fabric, and sometimes thread breakage. And one of the reasons for uneven thread advancement may be the upper thread tension regulator.

In addition to incorrectly selected threads, sewing needles can also ruin your mood if they are the wrong number or type, as well as incorrect threading of the upper and lower threads.

Let's use the Chaika sewing machine tensioner as an example to figure out how the tension regulator for the upper thread of a sewing machine works, how to properly disassemble and reassemble it, and what can prevent the thread from sliding well.

Seagull thread tension regulator mount

It is the fastening of the tension regulator that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to wobble, or even “falls out” of the case. Sometimes it is enough to tighten the screw securing it, check whether the plates are pressed out when the presser arms are raised, and put the top cover of the machine back without disassembling the tensioner itself.

In what cases is it necessary to completely disassemble the tensioner of a sewing machine? Only if the stitching is unevenly tightened in the stitch or loops at the bottom. Perhaps thread frays have accumulated between the plates and are preventing them from pressing the thread tightly.

It also happens that the thread “cuts out” a groove on the tensioner rod (with a slot). The sharp edges of this groove periodically cut the thread, which leads to constant breakage of the upper thread. This defect can only be corrected by filing or replacing the part.
But this is extremely rare, but this is precisely what becomes the reason for the “long” search for the reason why the top thread loops from below or even breaks off.

Feathers between the plates can accumulate in the tensioner of any sewing machine, especially with an overlocker. After all, over the years of work, millions of meters of thread “fly” through the overlock tensioners, sometimes the quality is not very good. Gradually, a compaction forms between the plates, which makes it difficult to regulate the thread tension.
Move the plates apart and make sure that nothing prevents them from tightening the thread well. You need to start disassembling the tensioner by unscrewing this screw; it is not at all necessary to remove it completely from the machine.

The tension regulator parts for all machines are almost the same

If you yourself, or your child took it apart while playing, and you don’t know how to put it back together, then look at this photo. It shows the assembly sequence of the Chaika sewing moss tensioner. All parts are laid out in the sequence in which they are installed in the tensioner.

Attaching the regulator to the machine body

It is not advisable to completely remove the regulator from the machine. For some models of sewing machines it will be quite difficult to put it back.
It’s quite easy to install a regulator on a Podolsk sewing machine, but Chaika, Veritas, Tula and other sewing machines have a curved lever, “catching” the position of which will be problematic.

This is the position you need to insert it into the mounting hole. Next, you need to use the lever to get into the hole on the other side of the case. You can check this by lifting your foot. The lever should move towards you. In this position, you need to tighten the fastening screw on the body, but not all the way, since you will still have to make “fine” adjustments. The point is that when the paw is raised, the plates move completely apart. And when lowered, they were completely compressed. Increase the thread tension and check if the spring is working; if the tension does not change, then the lever needs to be moved more.

Tensioner compensation spring

Don't forget about the compensation spring; it must be slightly tensioned. When forming a stitch, it “extinguishes” the excess length of the thread, thereby protecting the stitch from forming a loop at the bottom. It's not even a loop, it's just excess top thread that wasn't pulled back in a timely manner. This happens for many reasons, including the wrong position of the shuttle, but sometimes the culprit is the compensating spring or rust and even nicks in the upper thread tensioner.

Video of how the upper thread tensioner works.

Anatomy of overlock stitches

A 4-thread overlock stitch is formed by two needle threads and two looper threads. Although it is not necessary to use different colored threads in your serger to see the stitch parts, you could still use this technique and find it useful.
The picture on the left shows the top and bottom sides of the fabric with overlock stitching. On the top section (which is facing up while stitching), you will see two rows of stitches forming parallel lines to the edge of the fabric. They are made with needles. Loops of thread that run more or less horizontally are formed by the upper looper. On the underside of the fabric runs the lower looper thread, which is attached with almost invisible needle stitches.
What looks like a row of straight stitching along the inside edge of the stitch is actually an example of forming hidden (inconspicuous) stitch ends.

Stitch length and cutting width

The length and width settings affect the overlock stitches. Select these values and then adjust the thread tension to suit them. For basic overcasting and finishing stitches, I choose a universal length and width combination that will work for most fabrics with minimal adjustments.

As with a regular sewing machine, a stitch length of 2.5 - 3mm works well for most fabrics. Shorter or longer stitches may cause puckering or pulling.

The set stitch width on an overlocker is actually the width of the cut line setting: the value set on the machine regulates the distance from the trimming knife to the needles and, in turn, the amount of fabric that remains inside the overlock stitch. The widest cutting width leaves most of the fabric inside the stitch. I rarely use a narrow cutting width because... The tension setting required for a balanced stitch is often so high that thread breakage becomes a problem. A narrow cutting width can be used (but is not always necessary) for rolled and other specialty stitches.

Adjusting thread tension for balanced stitches

By all accounts, the tension on a serger is difficult to set correctly, but with newer machines the adjustment is quite easy if you start with the correct threading of the serger and the appropriate cutting width. My advice is to adjust the tension first by changing the integer values on the tension dial, and then, if necessary, adjust more precisely by setting half values. Older machines will require more fiddling, but by keeping a record of adjustment settings as you work with different fabrics, you can adjust tensions quickly and accurately (the sample shape shown above will be useful for saving settings).

I have developed a fast and error-proof method for adjusting the tension of overlock threads. Start with a test piece of two layers of fabric and overlock one edge, cutting at least a thin strip of fabric. Now evaluate each stitch component individually by following these instructions:

Start with the left needle stitch. If the fabric wrinkles along the stitching, loosen the needle thread tension by changing the values one at a time until the wrinkle disappears. When it is obvious that there is no wrinkling, open the fabric, pulling it well, and look at the seam. If you see a "ladder" of stitches in the stitching, increase the tension, taking one step at a time. The left needle thread is the thread that joins the stitches together, so its tension must be correct.
Next, set the right needle thread tension. It's quite simple - set the dial to the same value as the left needle thread dial, or one notch lower. You have already determined once the difference between the thread tension settings of the left and right needles for one fabric, this difference will be used for all two-needle overlock stitches.
Finally, determine where the looper threads intertwine. They should be woven exactly at the edge of the fabric, with the seam lying smooth and flat between the stitches. If the loops extend beyond the edge of the fabric, you will need to increase the tension on the looper threads. If only one looper seems to be protruding, increase the tension on that looper only. If the looper stitches intertwine on one side of the fabric, the tension is likely too high on that side. Release the tension in increments until a weave of loops is formed at the edge of the fabric. You may need to decrease the tension on one side and increase the tension on the other side, in which case, start by easing the tension as far as possible.

If you set up your serger in the order I recommend, you will have no problem working on your serger with any fabric that ends up under the presser foot.

Troubleshooting common problems

Take a close, close look at your overlock stitch to identify problems and link them to current settings (such as cut width). Most deficiencies can be corrected by slightly turning one or two adjustment dials.

Fabric cutting width is too narrow

Loops extend beyond the edge of the fabric when too much fabric is cut away from the seam allowance.

Needle thread tension

Wrinkles: Loosen the needle thread tension
"Ladder" on the spread along the seam line: increase the needle thread tension

Looper thread tension

Loops roll to one side: loosen the looper tension on that side. (In this case, the loops will move towards the upper side, so the tension in the upper looper should be reduced.)

Incorrect weave of threads

Unevenness of stitches at the edge of the fabric: check that each thread is correctly tucked into the tension disk, otherwise no amount of adjustment will create a balanced stitch

Discussions: Commenting is disabled.

The promised ordinal post. How to adjust the tension of the lower (!) thread in a sewing machine.
Everyone loves to turn the upper thread tension wheel, but at one time a master taught me that this is not where the perfect seam begins! And with the correct tension of the lower thread. For some reason, many people are very afraid to twist the shuttle that contains the bobbin. In this case, the main argument is: “There’s a small screw there, I’m afraid it will fall and I’ll never find it again.” I don’t see any drama in this - how blind I am, but I always find this screw. Mainly by the sound, I hear where it fell. If something important falls in a closed room, where will it go? Search the nearest meter and find it. Not to mention that it is generally very rare that such a screw falls out, and if you are so afraid, work on the table and on a sheet of white paper. You definitely won't miss it.

So, this screw actually needs to be turned very, very little. Minimal! By just a tiny bit of a degree! Those. with feeling and without fanaticism. If you twist it like that, it won't fall out.

In general, we put a bobbin in the shuttle. At this point, one of the most furious discussions already begins - in which direction should the bobbin be placed? In which direction should it unwind? This “rewinding clockwise” thing is a complete mess. Endless discussion - what should spin clockwise? Nika? Bobbin?

So, take the bobbin so that the thread hangs on the right side. Like this.

And on this bobbin, held like this, you put a shuttle on it. The closed part is towards you, the open part is away from you. Then it will be right.

Now let's take the thread, like this:

And let's see what happens. If the shuttle hangs on the thread without moving, and when shaken it remains in the same place, then the tension is too strong. If all this is rushing down at high speed, it is too weak. We begin to twist the screw (with a suitable screwdriver). And those who have two screws on the shuttle (older models) turn them approximately equally, one, then the other. We tweaked it a little (just a little!) and tried again.

The ideal result looks like this: you take the thread, and the shuttle first hangs on it. But if you shake it all slightly, it rolls down about 5-10 cm, then slows down and stops. If it just flies down, it's not enough. If after 10 centimeters it *almost* stops, but after braking it still continues to slowly creep down - not enough. If it just rolled onto some such piece, and then stopped and stands - good! If you shook it, and it went down just a couple of centimeters, and stopped with a sharp movement - a lot. If it descends two or three times in very small jerks, then stops, but overall it has flown less than 5 cm - still a bit much.

When it became “just right,” we insert the shuttle into the machine and begin to work on the upper part.

Attention: if you start sewing with a different type of thread (for example, you had cotton thread, and then you decided to sew with synthetic thread, which is smoother and thinner), you need to readjust everything. Surely, when changing the thread, it will turn out that the tension has become very low. (Cotton “shaggy” threads are much more slow).

And one more thing: while you are trying like this, you will unwind a lot of thread. Sometimes it takes about 10 attempts until the tension is good. For some reason, many people feel sorry for this meter of thread that they unwind. Like, it's gone. Isn’t it a pity that you sew a million meters of bad seams, ruining threads, fabric, and nerves?

Now we refuel the machine and sew. Let's look at the resulting seam.
Here is a wonderful picture found on the Internet that shows what we are trying to achieve. The threads, top and bottom, meet and intertwine somewhere between the layers of fabric. So, you need to ensure that the place where they meet is, if possible, in the middle between the layers of fabric. And not closer to one of the surfaces.

It is clear that there is little thickness there. And we are talking about some tenths of a millimeter. But this can be adjusted to be really right in the middle.

A good seam is when the stitches lie side by side, the stitching is even, but (!) each individual stitch is visible. Those. you can clearly see the place where the needle stuck into the fabric, and one stitch ends. This should really be a place where you can see how the thread has sunk into the depths of the fabric!

Here's an extreme example of too much tension. On the side where you see almost entirely a straight thread, and from the thread on the opposite side you see loops - on that side the tension is too strong. Those. If you see such a picture from above, loosen the top tension. If you have such a picture from below, increase the top tension.

But now we are approaching a normal seam.

I tried to find a suitable picture, but I didn’t quite find it. Here's an example of a seam:

This seam is smooth, normal, and does not loop. We can say that he is OK. You can sew a thing with this seam, it will hold, everything will be fine. But I would not use such a seam to make a decorative stitch in a visible place. Because it is not yet “drawn” enough, not “chased” enough, there is no beautiful stitch pattern.
What are they missing? In the top picture, the top tension is still quite a bit high, there is a straight line, there is not a sufficiently beautiful depth of stitches (especially at the very top seam this is visible). In the second picture it’s the opposite - there’s a bit too much pull from below. The seam has not yet been damaged so much that it is impossible to sew directly with it. But the beauty is spoiled. The top thread is too immersed in the fabric, too poorly drawn, “sinks”.

It seems to be a good seam, normal, even, does not pull. As already said, if you sew so that all the seams are on the wrong side, you can live happily ever after with such a seam. But in a visible place, I would not sew anything with such a seam. Although everything is smooth, and nothing is bad about it. But the “graphics” from it will not be beautiful enough. This is especially visible on the part of the seam that is closer to the bottom. There the seam is turned as if facing us, it is clear that it is too uniform, like a line. It doesn't read like a seam. Is not cool.

A beautiful, good seam, this is:

The thread sinks into the fabric, goes under its surface, you can clearly see where one stitch ends and another begins. But in the very middle of the stitch, the thread lies on the surface of the fabric, not too taut. The pattern is smooth and does not jump. And ideally, if we turn the fabric over, we should see exactly the same thing on the other side! The more similar, the better!

I want to write something important here:

Setting the machine so that there are no loops on either side, so that the seam holds the layers of fabric together well, and so that nothing from the seam gathers in waves - this goes without saying. Without this, you will not sew anything you will be happy with. You will never be able to iron it well, it will always ripple at the seams, or the seam will spread and be too visible, etc. This is a “minimum program”.

But between “a seam that sews great” and a seam that looks great” there is this small difference, and you need to learn to feel it. And you need to develop in yourself the desire not to stop at the “normal seam”, but to turn your machine until you you won't see a *nice* seam, the kind that really enhances the item when it's visible from the outside.

And - this is very important - I am sure that such truly beautiful seams are the first thing that distinguishes a well-made item from what is called “handmade smells bad.” What is contemptuously called “amateur housewives” or “Samovar Violin” or “Home-grown” is when something seems to be sewn smoothly and well, but everything is finished with seams that “distinctly smell like a home machine.” Someone will look at such a seam on the street and immediately understand that it was sewn by hand at home. Because industrial machines don’t sew like that. Industrial machines are always distinguished by the fact that their tension is adjusted perfectly. (It is automatically adjusted there, and in any case the threads meet EXACTLY in the middle between the layers.)

The next thing that distinguishes industrially sewn items is smooth seams and an ideally maintained distance from the edge. But this is a separate story. This is not so difficult to learn, you just need to take your time when making a visible stitch.

P.S. What else would I like to say: even if we are talking about tenths of millimeters. Any good master who adjusts sewing machines will tell you that any machine can be adjusted to a good stitch (if it is not broken). In the case of capricious machines, this may take some time. But it can be achieved! The main thing here, firstly, is patience, you must not give up, but continue to twist until it is where you need it. And the second is pickiness. Don't settle for a seam that's "OK"! Demand that your car be beautiful. So that she sews a stitch that you want to show off with pride! The only difference is that some people stop too early. And others continue to tighten the car little by little until it becomes completely good!

P.P.S. In this sense, for me, cars whose shuttle cannot be removed are a tragedy. There are modern models in which the bobbin is directly inserted into the shuttle train in the machine, and everything is automatic. There is also a screw there that you can turn. But how can you tell if it's screwed down enough? After all, there is no such trick that you hold it, shake it, and it falls down. Do we need to somehow study and remember the feeling with which a thread is pulled out of such a shuttle? To feel if she is resisting enough? I have seen expensive cars that have such a shuttle, but on the other hand they have “automatic tension adjustment”. I don't know how well it works. But it's good that it exists. But when the shuttle cannot be removed and there is no automatic machine, I don’t know how to adjust the lower tension. (Who knows?)

You are the author of a new idea, you are a creative person, you have a plan, and all that remains is to complete the task. Sewing, as a certain element of art, always requires such an approach. People used to say: “A master of skillful works.” What kind of personality is this? This is a person who has skill and originality, for example, a skilled tailor. We are probably talking about you, who always has a variety of tools and devices at his disposal. One such technical assistant is a sewing machine. You need to be patient and show all your perseverance to study this complex mechanism. The main thing in the operation of this invention is precise synchronization all parts and components and, of course, the main criterion is the correct thread tension. You will not be able to realize yourself fully as a tailoring master until you master the skills to perform this important operation.

From coil to needle

Before starting the adjustment, you must make sure that the three of things.

First. The winding of the thread on the upper and lower spools should be uniform. The thread is of high quality, without roughness or small knots. The thickness of the thread is proportional to the needle number and the choice of fabric.

Second. Mechanical serviceability of thread tension paths.

Third. Threading is carried out strictly according to the instructions. Threading the upper thread is mandatory with a preliminary inspection of the entire tract from top to bottom. There should be no obstacles in the way of the thread (for example, dust mixed with machine oil and scraps of small threads, forming lumps of dirt). Hangnails may appear from an accidental impact with a metal object (scissors, screwdriver). Threading the lower thread requires the same approach; the bobbin unit constantly needs to be cleaned and lubricated. Lubrication occurs after eight hours (cumulative) of operation.

General provisions

The task before us is to get the perfect stitch. To resolve this condition it is necessary to achieve balance tension of the upper thread in relation to the lower thread. Regulators that change the tension of the upper thread, depending on the model, are located either on the front panel or on the arm of the machine head. In most cases, the regulator is numbered.

The tension of the bobbin thread is achieved by rotating the screw on the surface of the bobbin case (in the case of a design with two screws, adjustment is made by the one closer to the center). An important detail should be noted: rotating the adjusting screw on the bobbin, even a slight turn to the left or right, significantly changes the tension of the lower thread. To loosen the thread, the screw rotates to the left. To increase tension, rotate to the right. In most models with a “vertical shuttle” system, all operations associated with this adjustment are performed outside the shuttle mechanism, after first removing the bobbin case from its seat.

Suppose you have performed balancing and achieved a result where the tension force of the thread, upper and lower, is the same (to check, pull two threads toward you at the same time, one coming from the eye of the needle, the second from the bobbin assembly; there is no difference in the resistance of both paths). If during cleaning the lower tension was disturbed and you decided to readjust it, a correction must be made to the upper tract.

Preparatory activities

Make a control seam by setting the stitch length dial to the middle position, folding a small piece of fabric in half and stitching it at an angle of about 45 degrees. Now inspect the line. An ideal seam has no loops on both sides and the fabric does not wrinkle. If the bottom thread on the top side of the seam makes loops, but the top thread is straight, then the tension on the top thread is stronger. Conversely, if the top thread on the bottom side of the seam is looped, and the bottom thread is straight, therefore, the tension of the top thread is weak. In the first case, the tension of the upper thread was too tight, in the second, it turned out to be too loose.

Testing a stitched fabric sample

Make a control stitch again. Then take this sample in such a way as to grab the ends of it on both sides of the stitch, between the thumb and forefinger of each hand. Pull evenly, hard enough to break the threads.

One of four things must happen:

1. Broken upper thread. This indicates that its tension was stronger than that of the lower thread.
2. The upper thread turned out to be less tense in relation to the lower thread. As a result, the bottom thread breaks.
3. The thread tension is balanced and the stitch is perfect, but if the fabric is wrinkled and the stitch breaks on both sides of the seam, it is a sign that the tension is too tight.
4. Not a single thread was destroyed, their tension was balanced, but at the same time their mutual connection was weakened.

Tension Balance Adjustment

1. Loosen the tension of the upper thread by moving the adjusting element to the left by half a division. We make a control diagonal seam again and test the stitching by stretching the fabric. Repeat, if necessary, changing the thread tension with a small movement of the regulator until you reach balance, that is, until both threads break or not one of them breaks. They can both be loosened or tightened as described in points 3 and 4 above.
2. Strengthen the upper tension by turning the adjusting dial to the right about half the number. Make another diagonal seam and check the stitch. Repeat, if necessary, changing the upper thread tension by small turns until the thread tension is balanced.
3. No further adjustment is required if there are no suture wrinkles on the fabric. If wrinkling nevertheless occurs, you need to loosen the lower thread and adjust the tension of the upper thread, as described above in the first paragraph. Repeat the adjustment until the result is perfect, that is, the tension is balanced and there is no puckering of the fabric along the seam.
4. Tighten the lower thread slightly, then adjust the balance by slightly increasing
upper thread tension as in step 2.

Adjusting the zigzag stitch

Setting up this stitch is similar to the straight stitch.
It must be remembered that light, thin fabrics are especially prone to wrinkling when using a zigzag stitch. To eliminate this drawback, you need to simultaneously adjust the length and width of the stitch.

Adjusting seams with decorative stitching

There are times when unbalanced thread tension, one in relation to the other, turns out to be the best adjustment option. This is the case when we sew with decorative stitches and loops. The tension of the upper thread is weakened in relation to the lower thread. This will make the stitch look fuller and rounder, and will ensure that the bobbin thread doesn't show at the top of the seam. For this type of sewing, the tension path of the lower thread turns out to be too “light” (light thread, light bobbin), and it is not always possible to achieve the required result by loosening the upper thread. This is most often achieved by reinforcing the bobbin thread, and many prototypes are sewn to adjust its tension. To avoid wear on the bobbin threads from frequent adjustments, it is recommended to purchase additional bobbins for this type of sewing. Decorative thread is heavier in weight, and filling it into a bobbin makes the latter more massive and suitable for this type of work such as decorative stitching and machine embroidery.

One of the main criteria for obtaining a straight and beautiful stitch when sewing is correctly adjusted thread tension in your sewing machine. Many people mistakenly believe that understanding the tension adjustment process is very difficult and try to avoid independent intervention. In fact, having become familiar with the basic principles of regulation, everyone can adjust the optimal tension level.

To really be sure that the stitching is unsightly due to improperly adjusted thread tension, you need to check the following.

The amount of yarn wound on the upper and lower bobbins should be the same. In addition, pay attention to the consistency of the thickness of the thread and the needle used. The yarn should not have any damage over the entire surface.
Serviceability of all working mechanisms. Make sure all operating mechanisms are well lubricated, and their movements do not have sharp shocks or extraneous sounds.
Correct threading of yarn. This point is especially important due to the fact that many housewives thread their threads incorrectly. Check the filling using Operating Instructions, where the only correct method of refueling is indicated.

Checking and adjusting the upper thread tension

The upper thread tension regulator is a cylindrical rotating mechanism that can be located either on the top of the body or on the side.

Detailed information about the location of this mechanism can be found in the operating instructions for the sewing machine.

It is worth considering that you can determine the optimal level of thread tension by trial sewing several lines. An excellent result is a situation in which the stitching will have an even and neat appearance - which means the thread is tensioned correctly. If, when sewing stitches, you notice that the stitch is pulling the interlacing points with the bottom thread onto the outer surface of the fabric, then the tension balance is shifted towards the top yarn and should be loosened. The situation is similar with too little tension - the places of weaving will be visible, but from the underside of the fabric.

Depending on which of the above options characterizes your lines, you must:

increase tension;
reduce tension.

Don't twist regulator wheel too harsh. Gradually increase or decrease the tension until the appearance of the stitching meets the standard. If for some reason you cannot adjust the tension of the upper thread in your sewing machine, proceed to the next step.

Checking and tensioning the bobbin thread

Responsible for the level of tension of the lower thread shuttle mechanism. In order to determine the optimal tension of the lower yarn, you need to pull out the shuttle and hang it in the air, holding the thread coming from the bobbin by the tip. The ideal situation is when the shuttle drops no more than 2-3 centimeters and stops the rotation of the bobbin.

If the shuttle does not lower at all, the thread tension is too high. If it falls too easily when unwinding the bobbin, it means the tension is insufficient. This parameter can be adjusted using special screw.

Depending on whether you need to tighten the screw (increase) or loosen (decrease), use a miniature screwdriver to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise.
Make a test stitch to make sure the tension is at the optimal level.
Continue tightening the adjuster screw until the stitching is straight and neat.

Screw on shuttle

You should start adjusting the lower thread only after you have done a trial adjustment of the upper thread. In 95% of cases when the stitching looks crooked, the reason lies precisely in the upper thread.

For a more convenient interpretation of the results when sewing a stitch, use threads of different colors, which should contrast both with each other and with the fabric used. This will help you determine exactly which yarn tension needs to be adjusted.

Please note that if you are using upper and lower thread different thicknesses, this may require you to make additional tension adjustments. Ideally, the threads should be from the same spool or at least the same type. A mismatch between the needle size and the thickness of thread used can also result in uneven and crooked stitches.

Same as the thread thickness set stitch length can significantly affect the quality of the finished product. Setting this setting too small may result in fabric often getting pushed under the surface of the needle plate.

Thread and needle correspondence table

To successfully work with your sewing machine, every housewife needs to know the characteristics of each type of thread.

Polyester can be considered the most versatile material for making sewing threads. It is very convenient in the sewing process when solving problems of any complexity.
Wool yarn is quite thick. It requires a special needle and appropriate tension force.
To work with denim materials you need thick needle, which will not break when stitching.

The thread tension in sewing machines depends on the position of the adjusting screw. You need to check the tension before each sewing operation. If the fiber or material changes during operation, the thread tension is reset. If you don't do this, the stitching will turn out uneven.

Where to begin

Before changing the thread tension, you need to make sure that it was the thread that caused the malfunction. The general rules for setting up any machine are as follows:

checking the amount of thread that is on the upper and lower spools. For the work to be of high quality, the quantity must be the same;
replacing thread and needle when working with different materials. The thickness of the tool depends on the thickness of the fabric. The thread must be smooth so that its roughness does not damage the machine parts;
lubrication of parts. No matter how multifunctional the unit is, its parts need to be lubricated periodically. First of all, this concerns rubbing parts.

Thread tension mechanism

The upper thread tension regulator is represented by a cylindrical rotating mechanism. It can be located at the top of the case or on the side. If there is any doubt about the location, you need to study the instructions. Even in models from the same manufacturer, the position of this part may differ.

The shuttle will help you check the thread tension. If it cannot be lowered, the thread is too tight. If changing its position is easy, the thread should be tightened more.

Adjusting thread tension

In modern sewing machines, for example, Jaguar, Janome, Singer, several regulators are used to tension the thread. The first is designed to control the tension of the upper thread, the second - for the lower thread. To regulate both threads, you can use a diagram that shows the sequence of actions. You can increase or decrease the thread tension only if you know where the necessary parts are located.

The upper thread is adjusted at the front of the machine. The upper thread tension regulator controls the pressure on the discs between which the thread is stretched. Setting the second regulator, which is responsible for the lower thread tension in the sewing machine, is carried out by adjusting the position of the adjusting screw, which is located on the bobbin case body.

Weak or strong thread tension is affected not only by the mechanism, but also by the characteristics of the fiber. No matter how much you have to adjust the thread tension, if it is not selected correctly for working with a specific material, you will not get a high-quality seam. So, when working with knitwear, you need to tension the thread differently than when sewing parts made of cotton fabric. Moreover, the setting must be changed every time after replacing the thread, needle, or material. The same applies to performing operations on different areas of the material. For example, when working with a neck, you need to set the position of the tensioner differently than when working with pockets.

To set up the machine before work, you need to do the following:

Find the upper thread and bobbin thread regulators on your machine or overlocker.
Set the stitch length to 2 mm. Then you need to position the upper thread regulator knob so that it moves a quarter or half turn to the right.
Make a test stitch on a piece of similar fabric to check whether the thread needs to be loosened or tightened. The stitching is done at a distance of a centimeter from the edge of the fabric. It is best to make it with threads of different colors, for example, the top thread is black, the bottom thread is white. With different colors, it is easier to understand which thread needs to be pulled tighter or, conversely, loosened.
The resulting seam needs to be inspected. If it looks asymmetrical, and loops from the lower thread are visible at the top, then you need to reduce the tension of the upper needle thread. If loops from the needle thread are visible at the bottom of the seam, you need to reduce the bobbin thread tension.

You need to set the bobbin thread tension like this:

To begin, the wound bobbin is inserted into the bobbin case and sharply pulled by its tip.
If the tension is insufficient, the fiber will unwind. In this case, the tension needs to be increased.
If too much tension is applied, the fiber usually breaks. To select the desired degree of tension, use a screwdriver to begin moving the screw no more than a quarter turn.
After each adjustment, check the thread tension.
You need to adjust until you get the correct tension.

All of the above should be done in moderation, since the adjustment screw itself is small. If you overdo it, it may fall out of the nest.

Rules for adjusting thread tension

The rules for adjusting thread tension may differ for different machine models. For most modern models from manufacturers Astralux, Brother, Janome, Singer, they are almost the same. But in the former Soviet “Chaikas”, PMZ “Podolsky”, as well as “Veritas”, they will have to be configured differently. It all depends on the configuration of the thread tensioner and the type of shuttle (horizontal or vertical).

Upper thread tensioner for the Podolsk sewing machine. How to adjust the thread tension in a PMZ Podolsk sewing machine. The tension regulator is designed almost the same for all machines, be it model 134 M or 142.

The regulator is equipped with a compensation spring and a rod that releases the washers (plates) when the presser foot is raised. These screws are designed to regulate the degree of separation of the plates from each other and rotate the compensation spring. At the same time, the outermost screw fixes the position of the tensioner on the front cover.

Upper thread tension regulator in the Chaika. The tensioner fastening screw is located on the body of the sewing machine. If it is not fixed in the correct position, the stitching will be uneven. Another reason for malfunctions is that the plastic housing of the tensioner is not securely fastened with a screw. The more the machine vibrates during operation, the faster the screw moves and falls out of its socket.

Tensioner design in modern models If previous models of machines can be dealt with manually by studying the tables and diagrams of the location of all fasteners, then to repair modern devices you will have to contact a specialist. Largely because in older models the fastenings are less reliable and you can tighten the thread after several manipulations with a screwdriver. This is not possible with modern units. In order for the machine to operate without failures, it is enough to promptly remove fleece, dust and pieces of thread that fall into the space between the plates. To remove all dirt, just push them apart with a screwdriver and use a hard brush (you can take a glue brush) to sweep out all the particles of debris.

Overlock tensioners. In an overlocker, this part is arranged more simply than in household machines.

This is because its configuration does not provide a compensation spring and a rod for pressing the tensioner washer.

Upper thread tensioner for an industrial sewing machine. The thread tensioner can be located on the front part. Otherwise, it is the same as the tensioners of other brands of industrial lockstitch machines.

You can learn more about thread tension in sewing machines from the video below.

Hello!
I’m fighting with my new Singer machine, but it just doesn’t want to sew beautifully for me: sometimes it makes loops on top, sometimes there’s darkness on the bottom. No matter how I turn the thread adjustment wheel, it doesn’t help:((Well, to do this in a new country for me, there’s nowhere to run, I went to the Internet for information. I found this, maybe it will be useful to someone else:
The instructions are taken from two articles from this site "How simple!" :

The spring that shakes a thread , should be twisted in such a way that the cap, threaded with a bobbin and in a state raised by the extended end of our thread, does not allow the thread to unwind until we pull it sharply upward.
We pass the upper thread through the feed system. Typically the process looks like this: thread passes through several metal ears, then passes through the tension regulator, then it is passed into the eye of the thread take-up lever and through several staples it enters the eye of the needle.
We figured out how to skip the thread. Now let's move on to setting its tension. We will get the most beautiful and high-quality stitching if the lower and upper threads are intertwined deep in the material, invisible to the eye. This will happen if the thread tension is correct. We can adjust the tension of the upper thread using a mechanism on the front panel of the machine, and the lower thread using the adjusting screw located on the shuttle.
Start adjusting the tension from the bottom thread. This thread is wound onto a bobbin, which is inserted into the bobbin case. The regulator is a screw on the bobbin case that presses the spring. If you lift the bobbin case by the thread coming out of it, it will hang quietly on it. When you lightly tug on the thread, the cap should slide down a little. Achieve the desired thread tension by tightening or loosening the screw. Turn the screwdriver a little at a time, because... The screw is very small and can pop out.
Let's look at the upper thread tension settings, which involve tightening the screw that compresses the disc-shaped washers. So, let's take a small piece to check fabrics and let's sew it. If the loops turn out to be hanging, it means that the upper thread is too loose or too tight. If the seam is relatively even, then we look at which side the knots of the plexus of the lower and upper threads are more noticeable. The nodules can usually be easily felt with a finger. If the tension is adjusted correctly, the nodules will no longer be palpable.
If shaggy air loops have formed on the top of the fabric, it is necessary to loosen the tension of the upper thread. To do this, turn the regulator knob counterclockwise arrows . If the shaggy stitch is from the bottom, then turn the tension regulator in the opposite direction side - clockwise. This will increase the tension on the upper thread.So, we draw conclusions:The nodules are located approximately in the middle of the seam and cannot be felt (practically not palpable). This indicates that the thread tension is optimal.Nodules are felt on the underside. This means that the upper thread is not tensioned enough.Nodules are felt on the upper side of the seam. In this case, the upper thread tension is higher than normal.The loops turn out to be hanging - the tension of the upper thread deviates greatly from the norm, both in one direction and in the other.The stitch will be weak and unusable if the bobbin thread is loose or not tensioned at all on the bobbin case. The upper thread also has low tension.
Presser foot pressure can be adjusted using a spring. This setting is carried out automatically in the most advanced models of sewing machines. For sewing fairly thick materials, the presser foot can be raised to a height of 12 mm. If the foot presses heavily on the material, this can cause displacement of the layers being sewn, difficulty in movement, and sometimes even tearing of the fabric. If the presser foot puts little or no pressure on the material, you will end up with an incorrect seam.